Ron & Nancy on tue 26 jun 01
Dear friends,
I am doing a high fire work shop using a multi-chambered wood fire
kiln. Last year when this event went on , I was too ill to go but many
of my guild friends saw to it that I had a piece in the firing. Now this
year I am going to have the opportunity to partake. Now my question to
you all is Can you put glaze (10^) on pieces that will be ( I assume
tumble stacked) in an firing such as this?
I have read about ash and salt glazes, but what else is there to do?
or am I talking out my butt?
Nancy in Tucson where it has been pretty cool and raining in the
evenings
john elder on wed 27 jun 01
Hi Nancy,
If you are planning to glaze the out side of your pot and then have it
tumbled stacked then the wadding used to separate the pieces in the tumble
stack will be stuck to your glaze. The wadding can be grounded off with a
demel-like tool, but it will leave marks. Generally, pots that are tumble
stacked are unglazed and the potter is hoping for flashing marks and ash to
melt on the pot. You can use a flashing slip on the piece to help enhance
the flashing of the pot. Temperatures in a wood kiln can vary quiet alot and
any glaze used inside or out (usually fired on shelves or stacked rim to
rim) should have a wide temperature range for maturing. Shino type glazing
work well and look terrific with the pick up of fine fly ash. Ash type
glazes may run too much depending on their application (nothing too close to
the foot or have some spot near the foot to collect any runs before they hit
the shelf). If the kiln or a chamber is being salted then you can put slips
on your pieces that act with the salt atmosphere or just a raw clay body
with lots of silica it you like the orange-peel texture from salt firing.
Hope this helps!
John Elder
e-mail me off list at jrelder@hotmail.com if you would like more info.
>From: Ron & Nancy
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: high wood fire glazes
>Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 21:57:03 -0700
>
>Dear friends,
> I am doing a high fire work shop using a multi-chambered wood fire
>kiln. Last year when this event went on , I was too ill to go but many
>of my guild friends saw to it that I had a piece in the firing. Now this
>year I am going to have the opportunity to partake. Now my question to
>you all is Can you put glaze (10^) on pieces that will be ( I assume
>tumble stacked) in an firing such as this?
> I have read about ash and salt glazes, but what else is there to do?
>or am I talking out my butt?
>Nancy in Tucson where it has been pretty cool and raining in the
>evenings
>
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vince pitelka on thu 28 jun 01
> I am doing a high fire work shop using a multi-chambered wood fire
> kiln. Last year when this event went on , I was too ill to go but many
> of my guild friends saw to it that I had a piece in the firing. Now this
> year I am going to have the opportunity to partake. Now my question to
> you all is Can you put glaze (10^) on pieces that will be ( I assume
> tumble stacked) in an firing such as this?
> I have read about ash and salt glazes, but what else is there to do?
> or am I talking out my butt?
Nancy -
You need to find out whether they are in fact going to tumble-stack. If so,
then you only want to glaze the insides of the pots. If they are going to
stack at least part of the kiln with shelves, then you can glaze in a
conventional fashion, or else do a light patina of glaze that will serve to
make the ash a little more fluid. Avoid heavy glaze applications, because
if the ash gets runny you are sure to have a real mess. Find out what kind
of wood they are using. Down where you live I imagine they are using all
softwood, and that will give a more fluid ash. If by chance they were using
hardwood, the ash would be much more refractory, and normally the firing
would be taken to a higher temperature and/or soaked for a long time at high
temperature to fuse the ash. In such firings glazed or partially glazed
pots often work out well, because they help the hardwood ash to melt. Try
to find out what temperature they are firing to, and take that into
consideration in selecting glazes to use on the outside of the wares. Avoid
glazes which are already very fluid.
Good luck, and let us know how it turns out -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
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