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help w/ suspending difficult glaze

updated tue 3 jul 01

 

Wade Blocker on sun 1 jul 01


Randy,
I find that any glaze which contains a large amount of frit tends to
settle. I always use 1% of Mecaloid in my glazes to prevent this. However
some glazes just need to be stirred more than others when they sit for a
day or so.Mia in ABQ

Randy and Cheryl Weisz on sun 1 jul 01


We have been using a variation of a Cone 6 base glaze found originally in
Ceramics Monthly 12/1981. We like many of the colors, but the glaze settles
out very fast, and if not mixed up every few minutes, forms a very hard
layer on the bottom of the bucket. Epson salts have little to no effect.
Can any one tell me:
1) which materials in the glaze are causing this problem,
2) would adding bentonite to the glaze help?
3) any other ideas to solve the problem?

The base glaze recipe:

Nepheline syenite 20%
Dolomite 20%
Frit 3124 20%
Kentucky Ball Clay 20%
Silica 20%

Thank you

Randy Weisz

Paul Lewing on sun 1 jul 01


on 7/1/01 6:45 PM, Randy and Cheryl Weisz at randy-cheryl@MINDSPRING.COM
wrote:

> We have been using a variation of a Cone 6 base glaze found originally in
> Ceramics Monthly 12/1981. We like many of the colors, but the glaze settles
> out very fast, and if not mixed up every few minutes, forms a very hard
> layer on the bottom of the bucket. Epson salts have little to no effect.
> Can any one tell me:
> 1) which materials in the glaze are causing this problem,
Mostly the Neph Sy and the frit. Feldspars are not nearly as bad at that
as Neph Sy, and you can think of NS as a low-silica feldspar. You're got
lots of silica to work with here, so a molecular substitution would be
pretty easy. I'm sure you like the 5 equal parts aspect of this recipe,
though, and that would change that. You could also try substituting part or
all of the frit with Gerstley Borate (yeah, yeah, I know it's only back for
a short while) or one of the new substitutes like Laguna Borate or Boraq.
They suspend better than the frit does.
> 2) would adding bentonite to the glaze help?
That would be the first thing I'd try. Add 2% to the DRY ingredients,
mixing it up well before you add it to the water. With that much ball clay
in there, I'd bet that would do it.
> 3) any other ideas to solve the problem?
>
> The base glaze recipe:
>
> Nepheline syenite 20%
> Dolomite 20%
> Frit 3124 20%
> Kentucky Ball Clay 20%
> Silica 20%

Paul Lewing, Seattle

Roger Korn on mon 2 jul 01


If memory serves, this is one of Jeff Zamek's base glazes. I'd add 2%
bentonite as a guess. I used this glaze some years back, but never tried
storing it - just mixed it and used it up.

Roger Korn
McKay Creek Ceramics

Randy and Cheryl Weisz wrote:
We have been using a variation of a Cone 6 base glaze found
originally in
Ceramics Monthly 12/1981. We like many of the colors, but the
glaze settles
out very fast, and if not mixed up every few minutes, forms a
very hard
layer on the bottom of the bucket. Epson salts have little to
no effect.
Can any one tell me:
1) which materials in the glaze are causing this problem,
2) would adding bentonite to the glaze help?
3) any other ideas to solve the problem?

The base glaze recipe:

Nepheline syenite 20%
Dolomite 20%
Frit 3124 20%
Kentucky Ball Clay 20%
Silica 20%

Ron Roy on mon 2 jul 01


Hi Randy,

When you send any emails you want me to read - make sure RR is in the
subject line - or else I might miss em.

It's the Neph Sy - and/or maybe the glaze is just too thin in the bucket -
and/or maybe it's the water. Any way here is the same glaze without the
Neph Sy - let me know if it needs adjusting - test it first!

G200 - 22.5 (Custer will work)
Dolomite - 20.0
F3124 - 19.5
OM4 - 21.5 (other ball clay may work as well)
Silica - 16.5
Total - 100.0

Here is another using a different frit - cheaper way to go with evem more
clay to keep it all up.

G200 - 23.0 (Custer will work)
Dolomite - 20.0
F3134 - 12.0
OM4 - 28.0 (other ball clay may work as well)
Silica - 17.0
Total - 100.0

Let em know if some adjustments are needed - send all the recipes and what
the differences you want changed - fire all tests with a large cone beside
them - this is absolutly necessary.

RR

>We have been using a variation of a Cone 6 base glaze found originally in
>Ceramics Monthly 12/1981. We like many of the colors, but the glaze settles
>out very fast, and if not mixed up every few minutes, forms a very hard
>layer on the bottom of the bucket. Epson salts have little to no effect.
>Can any one tell me:
>1) which materials in the glaze are causing this problem,
>2) would adding bentonite to the glaze help?
>3) any other ideas to solve the problem?
>
>The base glaze recipe:
>
> Nepheline syenite 20%
> Dolomite 20%
> Frit 3124 20%
> Kentucky Ball Clay 20%
> Silica 20%

Ron Roy
RR# 4
15084 Little Lake Rd..
Brighton,
Ontario, Canada
KOK 1H0
Residence 613-475-9544
Studio 613-475-3715
Fax 613-475-3513