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## long necks/narrow bottoms

### Lynn Korbel on mon 6 aug 01

I have been throwing for 5 years and am just now trying to get the hang of=20
making tall slender pots. I am a potter in a vacuum, learning from books &=20
magazines & from you all. if it were not for you clayart people I would fee=
l=20
truly alone. my question is this: referring to PMI issues winter 2001 and=20
summer 2001. in the winter 2001 issue there is an article on throwing tubes=
=20
and spouts using trapped air by Don Adamaitis. I found this is a very=20
satisfying method. in the summer 2001 magazine there is an article by Annie=
=20
Robbins entitled Throwing Long-Neck Bottles. I have combined both process t=
o=20
make the long neck. my problem is not the neck but the base of the pot. =20
Annie says to throw a thick cylinder, I have finally reached a point where I=
=20
throw thin. so I am having to remind myself as I work--=E2=80=9Dthick!=E2=
=80=9D so I end=20
up with a nice long neck and the bottom of the piece is some ugly thick=20
shape. I am using about 10 pounds of clay and I am trying to figure out how=
=20
to slim down and shape the bottom. is all that thickness to be turned away?=
=20
or am I not shaping the bottom right from the beginning. if you can refer t=
o=20
the article you can see the width of the pots bottoms are probably about 4=20
inches. I find it difficult with 10 pounds of clay centered on my wheel to=20
only take up 4 inches or so. I hope I have this worded well enough to=20
communicate my perplexity. and hope this is not a stupid question....thank=20
you very much David Hendley, Bonnie Hellman, & Tom & Jean Latka for helping=20
me with my extruder. and thank you all in advance for any words of wisdom.=20=
=20
Lynn ~ on a learning curve

### iandol on tue 7 aug 01

Dear Lynn Korbel,

My PMI came through last week and I was as intrigued as you about the =
prospect of throwing tall elegant forms with high necks and flared rims.

Although I cannot give a direct answer to you question without doing =
some trials on the technique I can understand your concerns.

You say <out how to slim down and shape the bottom.>>.

Without making a trial my immediate suggestion would be to centre, open =
and raise at the natural diameter which occurs, achieving the highest =
plain parallel sided, uniform wall thickness cylinder you can make. =
Then, strongly collar this cylinder from the base to decrease it's =
diameter. You should gain a lot of height without increasing the =
thickness of the wall.

This next instruction is speculative. Shape the pot on the inside, =
working on the central third of the mass to get the belly diameter you =
require. You need to have a thick wall near the base to give support for =
clay which is above. Then connect the thin middle section to the lower =
thicker section and blend on into the other by throwing downwards . This =
is a process which is contrary to our popular understanding of throwing =
clay, difficult to accomplish without some disappointments, but it works =

Having made a good "Preform", you will have sufficient clay to make =
necks with floating rims which will reach to the stars knowing that =
there will be little clay to carve away, that you already know the =
internal shape so can cut with assurance and that you have exploited the =
natural characteristics of the medium without compromising structural =
integrity.

Now I have to go away and put that into practice.

Best regards,

Ivor Lewis. Redhill, South Australia.

=20

### Steve Mills on tue 7 aug 01

Try this, it's a technique I am using as I also have a 'thing' about
slender bottles: Throw up a basic cylinder and then throw the basic form
of the neck that you want. Using a pin tool cut it off, angling the pin
downwards at about 45 degrees. Throw the body and shoulder of the
bottle, and when it's complete, re-set the basic neck form on the
shoulder, giving it a slight wriggle to make sure it's attached, and
then finish throw the neck and shoulder,

Voilą!

Works a treat for me!

Steve
Bath
UK

In message , Lynn Korbel writes
>I have been throwing for 5 years and am just now trying to get the hang of=20
>making tall slender pots. I am a potter in a vacuum, learning from books &=20
>magazines & from you all. if it were not for you clayart people I would fee=
>l=20
>truly alone. my question is this: referring to PMI issues winter 2001 and=20
>summer 2001. in the winter 2001 issue there is an article on throwing tubes=
>=20
>and spouts using trapped air by Don Adamaitis. I found this is a very=20
>satisfying method. in the summer 2001 magazine there is an article by Annie=
>=20
>Robbins entitled Throwing Long-Neck Bottles. I have combined both process t=
>o=20
>make the long neck. my problem is not the neck but the base of the pot. =20
>Annie says to throw a thick cylinder, I have finally reached a point where I=
>=20
>throw thin. so I am having to remind myself as I work--=E2=80=9Dthick!=E2=
>=80=9D so I end=20
>up with a nice long neck and the bottom of the piece is some ugly thick=20
>shape. I am using about 10 pounds of clay and I am trying to figure out how=
>=20
>to slim down and shape the bottom. is all that thickness to be turned away?=
> =20
>or am I not shaping the bottom right from the beginning. if you can refer t=
>o=20
>the article you can see the width of the pots bottoms are probably about 4=20
>inches. I find it difficult with 10 pounds of clay centered on my wheel to=20
>only take up 4 inches or so. I hope I have this worded well enough to=20
>communicate my perplexity. and hope this is not a stupid question....thank=20
>you very much David Hendley, Bonnie Hellman, & Tom & Jean Latka for helping=20
>me with my extruder. and thank you all in advance for any words of wisdom.=20=
>=20
>Lynn ~ on a learning curve

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK

### Mike Gordon on tue 7 aug 01

Lynn,
When throwing any closed form it is important to teach your self to
design the bottom 1/3 of the pot from the (inside) memorize the shape so
that you can trim away the excess clay to get the shepe you memorized of
the inside. The thinner the better. If they are basic cylinders with a
closed top, then you can make the cylinder thin, if you want push it
into a rounder shape then you need to leave some clay at the bottom to
support the curve above it. But you still need to memorize the shape of
the bottom so you can trim it properly, Mike Gordon, Walnut Creek, Ca.

### Timakia@AOL.COM on tue 7 aug 01

Lynn, To get the shape that you want on the outside, you have to concentrate
on the shape on the outside of your pot. If you did not do that before, it
will take some time to adjust to that. Once you know your inside shapes, the
outside is very easy to get, because then you just follow the profile on the
inside and you almost do that by instinct. By tapping on the pot, you will
also be able to spot uneven areas.
Once you can do that, it does not matter how much clay you leave on the
bottom when throwing, because you will know how much to trim away. When I
throw porcelain, I leave a thick layer of clay on the bottom to support the
piece while wet and trim it off when leatherhard.
The articles that you read are familiar to me. Remember the last one, the
potter says she does not care when her pieces has thick bottoms, since it
help her work to be steardy. I concentrate on thin bottoms that balance with
the rim and belly of my pots. To get that I have to make sure that my shape
is founded while I throw.
Do you use a chuck to trim your bottoms?
Best wishes.
Antoinette.

PO Box 552
Saltillo,MS
38866
http://hometown.aol.com/timakia

### Lynn Korbel on tue 7 aug 01

In a message dated 8/7/01 10:23:58 AM Central Daylight Time, Timakia@AOL.COM
writes:

<< Do you use a chuck to trim your bottoms? >>

thank you to everyone answering my question. you all are so nice!!!
i am trying to figure that part out as to tall narrow forms---usually i just
wet the rims and turn the bottoms--or if it is a round shape i use pvc
connectors the round shape can either sit on top of the connector which of
course is centered and secured with clay bits. if the form is round with a
narrower neck the neck can just fit down inside with the shoulder supported
on the connector. but with these tall thin guys i see i need to come up with
something else or just use a twisted cut-off wire for that swirley thumbprint
look. you see, i don't like clay chucks because for me it always marrs the
surface of the form. in the article she says she hand carves out her
bottoms---i don't know if i could do that very well without benefit of a
wheel. thank you again... Lynn

### becky schroeder on tue 7 aug 01

steve-

what a clever man you are. my first exposures to pottery were as a child.
while growing up in india my parents took us to many little villages and we
always visited the local potter. they used one huge piece of clay to make
enourmous pots all in a few pulls. anything more gimicky than that method
has always felt like cheating to me. what a silly notion and one which i
will now put away. thanks for sharing,

becky

>
>Try this, it's a technique I am using as I also have a 'thing' about
>slender bottles: Throw up a basic cylinder and then throw the basic form
>of the neck that you want. Using a pin tool cut it off, angling the pin
>downwards at about 45 degrees. Throw the body and shoulder of the
>bottle, and when it's complete, re-set the basic neck form on the
>shoulder, giving it a slight wriggle to make sure it's attached, and
>then finish throw the neck and shoulder,
>
>Voilą!
>
>Works a treat for me!
>
>Steve
>Bath
>UK
>
>
>In message , Lynn Korbel writes
> >I have been throwing for 5 years and am just now trying to get the hang
>of=20
> >making tall slender pots. I am a potter in a vacuum, learning from books
>&=20
> >magazines & from you all. if it were not for you clayart people I would
>fee=
> >l=20
> >truly alone. my question is this: referring to PMI issues winter 2001
>and=20
> >summer 2001. in the winter 2001 issue there is an article on throwing
>tubes=
> >=20
> >and spouts using trapped air by Don Adamaitis. I found this is a very=20
> >satisfying method. in the summer 2001 magazine there is an article by
>Annie=
> >=20
> >Robbins entitled Throwing Long-Neck Bottles. I have combined both
>process t=
> >o=20
> >make the long neck. my problem is not the neck but the base of the pot.
>=20
> >Annie says to throw a thick cylinder, I have finally reached a point
>where I=
> >=20
> >throw thin. so I am having to remind myself as I
>work--=E2=80=9Dthick!=E2=
> >=80=9D so I end=20
> >up with a nice long neck and the bottom of the piece is some ugly
>thick=20
> >shape. I am using about 10 pounds of clay and I am trying to figure out
>how=
> >=20
> >to slim down and shape the bottom. is all that thickness to be turned
>away?=
> > =20
> >or am I not shaping the bottom right from the beginning. if you can
>refer t=
> >o=20
> >the article you can see the width of the pots bottoms are probably about
>4=20
> >inches. I find it difficult with 10 pounds of clay centered on my wheel
>to=20
> >only take up 4 inches or so. I hope I have this worded well enough to=20
> >communicate my perplexity. and hope this is not a stupid
>question....thank=20
> >you very much David Hendley, Bonnie Hellman, & Tom & Jean Latka for
>helping=20
> >me with my extruder. and thank you all in advance for any words of
>wisdom.=20=
> >=20
> >Lynn ~ on a learning curve
>
>--
>Steve Mills
>Bath
>UK
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at

_________________________________________________________________

### Craig Martell on tue 7 aug 01

Hi:

You might try throwing the piece in two sections. Make the body first, up
to the neck join. When the piece is "cheesehard" or so, throw a
rudimentary collar to join to the body. Recenter the body, join the two
pieces and throw the neck.

Either before or just after you throw the neck on you can wet the wheel
head and the bottom of the body and stick it down and recenter. You can
then trim away clay in the upright position without having to flip the
piece, place in a chuck and turn upside down. When you turn in the upright
position you can really see the form develop. Nothing is hidden by the chuck.

later, Craig Martell in Oregon

### pammyam on tue 7 aug 01

Hey, Steve. Are you joining the pieces wet or letting them
set up a bit?
Do you use a throwing stick (no success there, personally,
and like a wooden spoon
or its handle better) or what or nothing to seal the join
inside? Do you sometimes do a bit
more pulling on the neck after joining?
Thanks,
Pam

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Mills"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: long necks/narrow bottoms

: Try this, it's a technique I am using as I also have a
: slender bottles: Throw up a basic cylinder and then throw
the basic form
: of the neck that you want. Using a pin tool cut it off,
angling the pin
: downwards at about 45 degrees. Throw the body and shoulder
of the
: bottle, and when it's complete, re-set the basic neck form
on the
: shoulder, giving it a slight wriggle to make sure it's
attached, and
: then finish throw the neck and shoulder,
:
: Voil=E0!
:
: Works a treat for me!
:
: Steve
: Bath
: UK
:
:
: In message , Lynn Korbel writes
: >I have been throwing for 5 years and am just now trying
to get the hang of=3D20
: >making tall slender pots. I am a potter in a vacuum,
learning from books &=3D20
: >magazines & from you all. if it were not for you clayart
people I would fee=3D
: >l=3D20
: >truly alone. my question is this: referring to PMI
issues winter 2001 and=3D20
: >summer 2001. in the winter 2001 issue there is an
article on throwing tubes=3D
: >=3D20
: >and spouts using trapped air by Don Adamaitis. I found
this is a very=3D20
: >satisfying method. in the summer 2001 magazine there is
an article by Annie=3D
: >=3D20
: >Robbins entitled Throwing Long-Neck Bottles. I have
combined both process t=3D
: >o=3D20
: >make the long neck. my problem is not the neck but the
base of the pot. =3D20
: >Annie says to throw a thick cylinder, I have finally
reached a point where I=3D
: >=3D20
: >throw thin. so I am having to remind myself as I
work--=3DE2=3D80=3D9Dthick!=3DE2=3D
: >=3D80=3D9D so I end=3D20
: >up with a nice long neck and the bottom of the piece is
some ugly thick=3D20
: >shape. I am using about 10 pounds of clay and I am
trying to figure out how=3D
: >=3D20
: >to slim down and shape the bottom. is all that thickness
to be turned away?=3D
: > =3D20
: >or am I not shaping the bottom right from the beginning.
if you can refer t=3D
: >o=3D20
: >the article you can see the width of the pots bottoms are
: >inches. I find it difficult with 10 pounds of clay
centered on my wheel to=3D20
: >only take up 4 inches or so. I hope I have this worded
well enough to=3D20
: >communicate my perplexity. and hope this is not a stupid
question....thank=3D20
: >you very much David Hendley, Bonnie Hellman, & Tom & Jean
Latka for helping=3D20
: >me with my extruder. and thank you all in advance for
any words of wisdom.=3D20=3D
: >=3D20
: >Lynn ~ on a learning curve
:
: --
: Steve Mills
: Bath
: UK
:
:
____________________________________________________________
__________________
: Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
:
: You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
: settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
:
: Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
:

### Steve Mills on wed 8 aug 01

Pam,

The two pieces are joined wet, since the basic neck piece is thrown just
before the body and from the same lump of clay. As the neck piece is
comparatively small, wet, and cut at a 45 (ish) degree angle, it takes
about 2 turns to seal the joint with my fingers, and it is then pulled
up to finish (about 2 pulls). I very rarely use a throwing stick, can't
*feel* with it!

Steve
Bath
UK

In message , pammyam writes
>Hey, Steve. Are you joining the pieces wet or letting them
>set up a bit?
>Do you use a throwing stick (no success there, personally,
>and like a wooden spoon
>or its handle better) or what or nothing to seal the join
>inside? Do you sometimes do a bit
>more pulling on the neck after joining?
>Thanks,
>Pam
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Steve Mills"
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 6:56 AM
>Subject: Re: long necks/narrow bottoms
>
>
>: Try this, it's a technique I am using as I also have a
>: slender bottles: Throw up a basic cylinder and then throw
>the basic form
>: of the neck that you want. Using a pin tool cut it off,
>angling the pin
>: downwards at about 45 degrees. Throw the body and shoulder
>of the
>: bottle, and when it's complete, re-set the basic neck form
>on the
>: shoulder, giving it a slight wriggle to make sure it's
>attached, and
>: then finish throw the neck and shoulder,
>:
>: Voil=3DE0!
>:
>: Works a treat for me!
>:
>: Steve
>: Bath
>: UK
>:
>:
>: In message , Lynn Korbel writes
>: >I have been throwing for 5 years and am just now trying
>to get the hang of=3D3D20
>: >making tall slender pots. I am a potter in a vacuum,
>learning from books &=3D3D20
>: >magazines & from you all. if it were not for you clayart
>people I would fee=3D3D
>: >l=3D3D20
>: >truly alone. my question is this: referring to PMI
>issues winter 2001 and=3D3D20
>: >summer 2001. in the winter 2001 issue there is an
>article on throwing tubes=3D3D
>: >=3D3D20
>: >and spouts using trapped air by Don Adamaitis. I found
>this is a very=3D3D20
>: >satisfying method. in the summer 2001 magazine there is
>an article by Annie=3D3D
>: >=3D3D20
>: >Robbins entitled Throwing Long-Neck Bottles. I have
>combined both process t=3D3D
>: >o=3D3D20
>: >make the long neck. my problem is not the neck but the
>base of the pot. =3D3D20
>: >Annie says to throw a thick cylinder, I have finally
>reached a point where I=3D3D
>: >=3D3D20
>: >throw thin. so I am having to remind myself as I
>work--=3D3DE2=3D3D80=3D3D9Dthick!=3D3DE2=3D3D
>: >=3D3D80=3D3D9D so I end=3D3D20
>: >up with a nice long neck and the bottom of the piece is
>some ugly thick=3D3D20
>: >shape. I am using about 10 pounds of clay and I am
>trying to figure out how=3D3D
>: >=3D3D20
>: >to slim down and shape the bottom. is all that thickness
>to be turned away?=3D3D
>: > =3D3D20
>: >or am I not shaping the bottom right from the beginning.
>if you can refer t=3D3D
>: >o=3D3D20
>: >the article you can see the width of the pots bottoms are
>: >inches. I find it difficult with 10 pounds of clay
>centered on my wheel to=3D3D20
>: >only take up 4 inches or so. I hope I have this worded
>well enough to=3D3D20
>: >communicate my perplexity. and hope this is not a stupid
>question....thank=3D3D20
>: >you very much David Hendley, Bonnie Hellman, & Tom & Jean
>Latka for helping=3D3D20
>: >me with my extruder. and thank you all in advance for
>any words of wisdom.=3D3D20=3D3D
>: >=3D3D20
>: >Lynn ~ on a learning curve
>:
>: --
>: Steve Mills
>: Bath
>: UK
>:
>:
>____________________________________________________________
>__________________
>: Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>:
>: You may look at the archives for the list or change your
>subscription
>: settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>:
>: Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
>:

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK

### pammyam on wed 8 aug 01

Thanks, Steve. I am doing part of it right. I'm trying to
get the hang of longer necks
which would probably be more successful with clay that has
set up a bit, but I prefer
to try to attach them sooner.
Pam

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Mills"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 6:36 AM
Subject: Re: long necks/narrow bottoms

: Pam,
:
: The two pieces are joined wet, since the basic neck piece
is thrown just
: before the body and from the same lump of clay. As the
neck piece is
: comparatively small, wet, and cut at a 45 (ish) degree
angle, it takes
: about 2 turns to seal the joint with my fingers, and it is
then pulled
: up to finish (about 2 pulls). I very rarely use a throwing
stick, can't
: *feel* with it!
:
: Steve
: Bath
: UK
:
:
: In message , pammyam writes
: >Hey, Steve. Are you joining the pieces wet or letting
them
: >set up a bit?
: >Do you use a throwing stick (no success there,
personally,
: >and like a wooden spoon
: >or its handle better) or what or nothing to seal the join
: >inside? Do you sometimes do a bit
: >more pulling on the neck after joining?
: >Thanks,
: >Pam
: >
: >----- Original Message -----
: >From: "Steve Mills"
: >To:
: >Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 6:56 AM
: >Subject: Re: long necks/narrow bottoms
: >
: >
: >: Try this, it's a technique I am using as I also have a
: >: slender bottles: Throw up a basic cylinder and then
throw
: >the basic form
: >: of the neck that you want. Using a pin tool cut it off,
: >angling the pin
: >: downwards at about 45 degrees. Throw the body and
shoulder
: >of the
: >: bottle, and when it's complete, re-set the basic neck
form
: >on the
: >: shoulder, giving it a slight wriggle to make sure it's
: >attached, and
: >: then finish throw the neck and shoulder,
: >:
: >: Voil=3DE0!
: >:
: >: Works a treat for me!
: >:
: >: Steve
: >: Bath
: >: UK
: >:
: >:
: >: In message , Lynn Korbel writes
: >: >I have been throwing for 5 years and am just now
trying
: >to get the hang of=3D3D20
: >: >making tall slender pots. I am a potter in a vacuum,
: >learning from books &=3D3D20
: >: >magazines & from you all. if it were not for you
clayart
: >people I would fee=3D3D
: >: >l=3D3D20
: >: >truly alone. my question is this: referring to PMI
: >issues winter 2001 and=3D3D20
: >: >summer 2001. in the winter 2001 issue there is an
: >article on throwing tubes=3D3D
: >: >=3D3D20
: >: >and spouts using trapped air by Don Adamaitis. I
found
: >this is a very=3D3D20
: >: >satisfying method. in the summer 2001 magazine there
is
: >an article by Annie=3D3D
: >: >=3D3D20
: >: >Robbins entitled Throwing Long-Neck Bottles. I have
: >combined both process t=3D3D
: >: >o=3D3D20
: >: >make the long neck. my problem is not the neck but
the
: >base of the pot. =3D3D20
: >: >Annie says to throw a thick cylinder, I have finally
: >reached a point where I=3D3D
: >: >=3D3D20
: >: >throw thin. so I am having to remind myself as I
: >work--=3D3DE2=3D3D80=3D3D9Dthick!=3D3DE2=3D3D
: >: >=3D3D80=3D3D9D so I end=3D3D20
: >: >up with a nice long neck and the bottom of the piece
is
: >some ugly thick=3D3D20
: >: >shape. I am using about 10 pounds of clay and I am
: >trying to figure out how=3D3D
: >: >=3D3D20
: >: >to slim down and shape the bottom. is all that
thickness
: >to be turned away?=3D3D
: >: > =3D3D20
: >: >or am I not shaping the bottom right from the
beginning.
: >if you can refer t=3D3D
: >: >o=3D3D20
: >: >the article you can see the width of the pots bottoms
are
: >: >inches. I find it difficult with 10 pounds of clay
: >centered on my wheel to=3D3D20
: >: >only take up 4 inches or so. I hope I have this
worded
: >well enough to=3D3D20
: >: >communicate my perplexity. and hope this is not a
stupid
: >question....thank=3D3D20
: >: >you very much David Hendley, Bonnie Hellman, & Tom &
Jean
: >Latka for helping=3D3D20
: >: >me with my extruder. and thank you all in advance for
: >any words of wisdom.=3D3D20=3D3D
: >: >=3D3D20
: >: >Lynn ~ on a learning curve
: >:
: >: --
: >: Steve Mills
: >: Bath
: >: UK
: >:
: >:
:
>___________________________________________________________
_
: >__________________
: >: Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
: >:
: >: You may look at the archives for the list or change
your
: >subscription
: >: settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
: >:
: >: Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
reached
: >:
:
: --
: Steve Mills
: Bath
: UK
:
:
____________________________________________________________
__________________
: Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
:
: You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
: settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
:
: Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached

### Paul Brinkmann on wed 8 aug 01

Lynn, I dont remember where I heard or read about it, but I have been
throwing bottles where I dont have to trim the bottom at all. First, I throw
a bottomless cylinder, to whatever size you wish. Then start constricting
the top into a closed dome. When you have it the way you want it, let it set
up for awhile, maybe 20 to 30 minutes, then cut it off the batt. Turn it
over, and recenter it on the wheel. (What was the top, is now the bottom).
When its centered,( you need to use clods of clay to attach it to the batt)
start constricting the top, thus forming the neck of the bottle. Of course,
with every two or three constricting steps, you need to pull up the wall, or
it will get to thick. When you have the shape you want, you're finished.
No trimming. Hope you enjoy this method.
Paul Brinkmann, San Antonio, TEXAS

### Janet Kaiser on wed 8 aug 01

I have not seen any of these shapes you refer to, so I
do not know for sure what you are trying to achieve.
What I do know is that tall, narrow vessels are a pain
to exhibit and ultimately own in any home which has
children, cats, elderly inhabitants or is likely to
suffer the odd earth tremor... Also any natural klutz
like me is a high risk around tall narrow vessels which
do not have a stable base to make them at least
semi-safe.

Apart from practical considerations of that nature, I
personally do not like having to use museum putty to
make sure pots do not fall over when heavy-footed
visitors walk through the gallery... On a hung and
sprung wooden floor like ours, a person tramping up one
side or a young child jumping up and down can topple a
whole avalanche of such pots the other side of the
room!

One of our potters also decided to make "cardinal's
hat" shaped bowls with an extremely narrow foot (max. 5
cm) and huge flat rims six inches/15 cm or more wide
(yes, an expert thrower and they never warp when drying
or firing!) But, one tap and the rim hits the deck as
the whole bowl tips up. It may or may not crack/break
first time around, but sooner or later they do. Many
disappointed people have told me about their mishaps,
often but not exclusively child or animal instigated.

Why do I sell them? Because they really are beautifully
made and a technical achievement. But more because the
potter needs to sell them to keep a car on the road.
Should I sell them? Probably not. Do they offend my
sensibilities? Well let me just say, if the potter was
not a good friend, I would not feel comfortable about
them. Let's face it, a pot which is unstable in any
normal situation is not IMHO a good design.

Janet Kaiser
The Chapel of Art . Capel Celfyddyd
HOME OF THE INTERNATIONAL POTTERS' PATH
Criccieth LL52 0EA, GB-Wales Tel: (01766) 523570
E-mail: postbox@the-coa.org.uk
WEBSITE: http://www.the-coa.org.uk

### Lynn Korbel on thu 9 aug 01

an ancient asian philosophy that works for me: see the vessel as already
broken and disappointment will not be so great. :-) however, i
certainly see your point. i'm sure i won't sell many of these---but i will
make what i like and i will learn to make this form well. i have a line of
work of which the sales support my studio endeavors--this graceful form has
captured my attention and as a lowly potter i want to be able to create it.
i have received and (continue to do so) many good suggestions for which i am
so grateful. This list is amazing. we all create with clay--as done for a
million years~ but we have this technology to communicate with one another
around the world. clay and technology--an interesting mix.
best wishes, lynn who is high-strung and low-tech.

you wrote:
I have not seen any of these shapes you refer to, so I
do not know for sure what you are trying to achieve.
What I do know is that tall, narrow vessels are a pain
to exhibit and ultimately own in any home which has
children, cats, elderly inhabitants or is likely to
suffer the odd earth tremor... Also any natural klutz
like me is a high risk around tall narrow vessels which
do not have a stable base to make them at least
semi-safe.

Apart from practical considerations of that nature, I
personally do not like having to use museum putty to
make sure pots do not fall over when heavy-footed
visitors walk through the gallery... On a hung and
sprung wooden floor like ours, a person tramping up one
side or a young child jumping up and down can topple a
whole avalanche of such pots the other side of the
room!

One of our potters also decided to make "cardinal's
hat" shaped bowls with an extremely narrow foot (max. 5
cm) and huge flat rims six inches/15 cm or more wide
(yes, an expert thrower and they never warp when drying
or firing!) But, one tap and the rim hits the deck as
the whole bowl tips up. It may or may not crack/break
first time around, but sooner or later they do. Many
disappointed people have told me about their mishaps,
often but not exclusively child or animal instigated.

Why do I sell them? Because they really are beautifully
made and a technical achievement. But more because the
potter needs to sell them to keep a car on the road.
Should I sell them? Probably not. Do they offend my
sensibilities? Well let me just say, if the potter was
not a good friend, I would not feel comfortable about
them. Let's face it, a pot which is unstable in any
normal situation is not IMHO a good design.

Janet Kaiser