Arnolds Home Improvements on thu 9 aug 01
Luke
Thanks for your reply!!!
I have tried standards 153,119 and 239 liked the 239 best not that rough. I
have also tried Hjighwaters raku clay and Campbells raku clay.
As I stated I think my rims and tops of the pots are getting too cool by
setting them out and letting them ping before they go in reduction.
I like the big cracks and get them most of the time just not enough black.
I'll give your method a try.
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!
Gene Arnold
-----Original Message-----
From: Lamar, Luke
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Thursday, August 09, 2001 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: fire and raku
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Arnolds Home Improvements [mailto:mudduck@ADVI.NET]
>Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 5:43 PM
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: fire and raku
>
>
>> I do raku mainly white crackle and I still have a problem getting black
>>pots. I have tried three different kinds of raku clays with the same
>results
>>and several recipes.
>
>
>Hi Gene,
>What kind of clay do you use? I don't like raku clay - too rough - I use
>181. I place my pieces directly into a can of newspaper right from the
kiln.
>After a couple minutes, I pull them out, let them crackle, then put them
>back in the can. I always get very intense jet black.
>
>I have found that applying to many coats of terra sig will resist the smoke
>- sometimes almost completely.
>
>Luke Lamar
>llamar@bacweb.org
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Arnolds Home Improvements on thu 9 aug 01
Celia
Thanks for your reply!!!
I also use a white glaze not clear. I set the pots on a board instead of the
ground to avoid cracking the bottoms if the ground is cool, and setting it
on the board seems to help blacken the bottom.
I will try more paper in reduction and see if this helps.
Thanks!!!!!!!!
Gene Arnold
-----Original Message-----
From: Celia Littlecreek
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Thursday, August 09, 2001 9:32 PM
Subject: Re: fire and raku
>Gene, I have pretty good luck getting lots of black in my crackle. First I
>use a white crackle glaze, not clear. The recipe I use has cornwall stone
>in it. I use a very white commercial clay from Continental Clay. It is
>their Raku clay. It can be used from ^06 to ^10. but matures at cone 6. I
>apply the glaze thickly with a brush. ( The glaze in the bucket is so
>thick, a wooden spoon stands up in the glaze) I also heat to about 1950 or
>untill all the glaze fluxes. I take the pot out and put it right on the
>ground until it pings like popcorn popping. I then put it in a "post-fire
>reduction chamber (garbage can with a lid), with lots of shredded
newspaper.
>I try to get my chambers so that there is not much room for anything but
the
>pot. Then I put the lid on, but not all the way on, so smoke trails out of
>the chamber. If I want secondary or lighter smaller cracks inside the big
>cracks, I throw in some more newspaper. I let it smoke until there is no
>more smoke, then just leave it there till it cools. I do not use Comet, a
>green scrubbie and water to clean off the "charr" until the pot is cold.
>(The next day) Hope this helps.
>
>-- Original Message -----
>From: "Arnolds Home Improvements"
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 4:43 PM
>Subject: Re: fire and raku
>
>
>> I do raku mainly white crackle and I still have a problem getting black
>> pots. I have tried three different kinds of raku clays with the same
>results
>> and several recipes. I have reduced in straw, pine needles and newspaper
>all
>> with about the same results, newspaper seems to be best. So am I doing
>> something wrong? I heat the pots to 1950 degrees farenhite, take them out
>of
>> the kiln and sit them on a board with a hand full of saw dust thrown into
>> each pot for about a minute or two until I hear the pots start to
crackle,
>> then I place them into can with newspaper, let them flame up and slam the
>> lid on. After about 15 minutes the pots come out and go into water for
>> scrubbing. Then lo and behold the rims and crackle are never as black as
I
>> think they should be, kind of a gray instead of black. I have tried going
>> directly from the kiln into reduction better black but small spider web
>> crackle.
>>
>> So are there any changes I need to make short of using motor oil !! LOL
>>
>> Gene Arnold
>> mudduck@advi.net
>> Playing in the mud in N.C.
>>
>>
>___________________________________________________________________________
_
>__
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
mel jacobson on thu 9 aug 01
the fire that caused the destruction of david shaner's studio
and property was caused by a power pole fire. it started
a grass fire about a half mile from his house...it spread in
and engulfed things.
the power company was not at fault. just a `so be it` attitude.
david lost everything.
raku.
i am not an expert here, but we do a great deal of quality
raku at the farm....we only use a small bit of dry sawdust
and on most occasions one sheet of newspaper. bob anderson
gets the blackest clay body and crackle i have ever seen...jet black.
(see claytimes on calligraphy/platters)
one thing for certain...the less iron oxide or oxides you have in
your clay body, the blacker the reduction.
high iron raku bodies get dirty pink, whites turn pink.
my favorite raku is jet black and white.
pure white...big crackle. my least favorite is the
copper matts multi-color jumble that turns brown in two years.
in most cases, i stay a long way from raku.
it seems fun, lots of energy, but lots of bad ju ju
is coming from those kilns. and standing there, bending
over the kiln, fumes everywhere. breathing that crap in.
ish. and then you smell like smoke and carbon for six days after.
i don't know....i hear all this health stuff, and then the folks
sit two feet from a raku kiln all day...seems strange to me.
but, then, what do i know. headache, the first sign of all
trouble. that is a fact. if you are firing a kiln, and you get
a headache, well, figure it out...`well, bob, it is not a bad
headache, and i only get it for about two hours, nothing
to worry about?` make sure you fire that way again.
meat , meat , meat.
venison, beef, pork.
please, don't tell me what to eat.
mel , this is a clay list. and i do not eat clay.
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
Marcia Selsor on thu 9 aug 01
Dear Mel,
I fire a lot of raku. I don't sit by a kiln for two hours. I am usually
running around cleaning pots or preparing something for the next batch
which comes out every 20 minutes or so.
I don't get lots of smoke either. don't need it and the fire dept.
doesn't like it. My recent raku workshop in Red Lodge went well. Red
Lodge is still skiddish about forest fires after '88.
We used old damp moldy straw. Newspaper works well too and not much.
There is no need to have a lot of thick gaggy smoke around.-and you can
get nice black black doing it that way.
a couple of hand fulls of straw in the cans is plenty. The horse hair
firing was more gaggy than the straight raku.
Ciao,
Marcia in Montana
PS
The only time I ever tried oil was after the first reduction while the
pot was still somewhat hot. I don't remember any fumes and the was no smoke.
SNIP
> in most cases, i stay a long way from raku.
> it seems fun, lots of energy, but lots of bad ju ju
> is coming from those kilns. and standing there, bending
> over the kiln, fumes everywhere. breathing that crap in.
> ish. and then you smell like smoke and carbon for six days after.
>
> i don't know....i hear all this health stuff, and then the folks
> sit two feet from a raku kiln all day...seems strange to me.
> but, then, what do i know. headache, the first sign of all
> trouble. that is a fact. if you are firing a kiln, and you get
> a headache, well, figure it out...`well, bob, it is not a bad
> headache, and i only get it for about two hours, nothing
> to worry about?` make sure you fire that way again.
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/May2001.html
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Tuscany2001.html
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Gallery.html
Arnolds Home Improvements on thu 9 aug 01
I do raku mainly white crackle and I still have a problem getting black
pots. I have tried three different kinds of raku clays with the same results
and several recipes. I have reduced in straw, pine needles and newspaper all
with about the same results, newspaper seems to be best. So am I doing
something wrong? I heat the pots to 1950 degrees farenhite, take them out of
the kiln and sit them on a board with a hand full of saw dust thrown into
each pot for about a minute or two until I hear the pots start to crackle,
then I place them into can with newspaper, let them flame up and slam the
lid on. After about 15 minutes the pots come out and go into water for
scrubbing. Then lo and behold the rims and crackle are never as black as I
think they should be, kind of a gray instead of black. I have tried going
directly from the kiln into reduction better black but small spider web
crackle.
So are there any changes I need to make short of using motor oil !! LOL
Gene Arnold
mudduck@advi.net
Playing in the mud in N.C.
Lamar, Luke on thu 9 aug 01
-----Original Message-----
From: Arnolds Home Improvements [mailto:mudduck@ADVI.NET]
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 5:43 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: fire and raku
> I do raku mainly white crackle and I still have a problem getting black
>pots. I have tried three different kinds of raku clays with the same
results
>and several recipes.
Hi Gene,
What kind of clay do you use? I don't like raku clay - too rough - I use
181. I place my pieces directly into a can of newspaper right from the kiln.
After a couple minutes, I pull them out, let them crackle, then put them
back in the can. I always get very intense jet black.
I have found that applying to many coats of terra sig will resist the smoke
- sometimes almost completely.
Luke Lamar
llamar@bacweb.org
Celia Littlecreek on thu 9 aug 01
Gene, I have pretty good luck getting lots of black in my crackle. First I
use a white crackle glaze, not clear. The recipe I use has cornwall stone
in it. I use a very white commercial clay from Continental Clay. It is
their Raku clay. It can be used from ^06 to ^10. but matures at cone 6. I
apply the glaze thickly with a brush. ( The glaze in the bucket is so
thick, a wooden spoon stands up in the glaze) I also heat to about 1950 or
untill all the glaze fluxes. I take the pot out and put it right on the
ground until it pings like popcorn popping. I then put it in a "post-fire
reduction chamber (garbage can with a lid), with lots of shredded newspaper.
I try to get my chambers so that there is not much room for anything but the
pot. Then I put the lid on, but not all the way on, so smoke trails out of
the chamber. If I want secondary or lighter smaller cracks inside the big
cracks, I throw in some more newspaper. I let it smoke until there is no
more smoke, then just leave it there till it cools. I do not use Comet, a
green scrubbie and water to clean off the "charr" until the pot is cold.
(The next day) Hope this helps.
-- Original Message -----
From: "Arnolds Home Improvements"
To:
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: fire and raku
> I do raku mainly white crackle and I still have a problem getting black
> pots. I have tried three different kinds of raku clays with the same
results
> and several recipes. I have reduced in straw, pine needles and newspaper
all
> with about the same results, newspaper seems to be best. So am I doing
> something wrong? I heat the pots to 1950 degrees farenhite, take them out
of
> the kiln and sit them on a board with a hand full of saw dust thrown into
> each pot for about a minute or two until I hear the pots start to crackle,
> then I place them into can with newspaper, let them flame up and slam the
> lid on. After about 15 minutes the pots come out and go into water for
> scrubbing. Then lo and behold the rims and crackle are never as black as I
> think they should be, kind of a gray instead of black. I have tried going
> directly from the kiln into reduction better black but small spider web
> crackle.
>
> So are there any changes I need to make short of using motor oil !! LOL
>
> Gene Arnold
> mudduck@advi.net
> Playing in the mud in N.C.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Pat/Kent on fri 10 aug 01
dear sir i try to observe all stages dealing with pottery like a scienctist
to try to capture the effects or errors i want to keep or avoid. with white
crakle raku i have found that 1- 11/2 min after the pull into the air
produces larger crakle also this helped to make the crakle lines and pot
areas dark after reinserting into reduction. i think this has to do with
the carbon not being burned off with higher temps. so be patient and observe
various trials.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arnolds Home Improvements"
To:
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 8:21 PM
Subject: Re: fire and raku
> Luke
>
> Thanks for your reply!!!
>
> I have tried standards 153,119 and 239 liked the 239 best not that rough.
I
> have also tried Hjighwaters raku clay and Campbells raku clay.
>
> As I stated I think my rims and tops of the pots are getting too cool by
> setting them out and letting them ping before they go in reduction.
>
> I like the big cracks and get them most of the time just not enough black.
>
> I'll give your method a try.
>
> Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!
> Gene Arnold
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lamar, Luke
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Date: Thursday, August 09, 2001 9:21 PM
> Subject: Re: fire and raku
>
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Arnolds Home Improvements [mailto:mudduck@ADVI.NET]
> >Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 5:43 PM
> >To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> >Subject: Re: fire and raku
> >
> >
> >> I do raku mainly white crackle and I still have a problem getting black
> >>pots. I have tried three different kinds of raku clays with the same
> >results
> >>and several recipes.
> >
> >
> >Hi Gene,
> >What kind of clay do you use? I don't like raku clay - too rough - I use
> >181. I place my pieces directly into a can of newspaper right from the
> kiln.
> >After a couple minutes, I pull them out, let them crackle, then put them
> >back in the can. I always get very intense jet black.
> >
> >I have found that applying to many coats of terra sig will resist the
smoke
> >- sometimes almost completely.
> >
> >Luke Lamar
> >llamar@bacweb.org
> >
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
> ___
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Anita M. Swan on fri 10 aug 01
To what temp do you fire your bisque? I found that when I fired the bisque too hot
- 05 or higher, I don't get as much black. Nita
Arnolds Home Improvements wrote:
> I do raku mainly white crackle and I still have a problem getting black
> pots. I have tried three different kinds of raku clays with the same results
> and several recipes. I have reduced in straw, pine needles and newspaper all
> with about the same results, newspaper seems to be best. So am I doing
> something wrong? I heat the pots to 1950 degrees farenhite, take them out of
> the kiln and sit them on a board with a hand full of saw dust thrown into
> each pot for about a minute or two until I hear the pots start to crackle,
> then I place them into can with newspaper, let them flame up and slam the
> lid on. After about 15 minutes the pots come out and go into water for
> scrubbing. Then lo and behold the rims and crackle are never as black as I
> think they should be, kind of a gray instead of black. I have tried going
> directly from the kiln into reduction better black but small spider web
> crackle.
>
> So are there any changes I need to make short of using motor oil !! LOL
>
> Gene Arnold
> mudduck@advi.net
> Playing in the mud in N.C.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Jeff Lawrence on fri 10 aug 01
Gene Arnold was saddened by the gray cast to his raku pieces...
Hi Gene and others,
A trick which I've heard about recently but not tried is to gently
flame the discoloration away with a brazing torch. Apparently this
cleanses the gray away leaving pure white (or whatever). The obvious
caveats apply - probably easy to crack your pieces if you aren't
careful, and who knows if it isn't putting more crackle in than
you want.
A question: what is a good direction to go for a matt white raku
glaze? I have a sense that matt glazes generally want to cool
slow, which makes raku mats a challenge. I was thinking of barium mats,
since I had 04 mats glazes that looked good with fritted barium,
but they were finicky -- shined up if cooled too fast or fired too
hot. Alumina mats? Excess silica pseudo-mats? What has worked for
you?
TIA
Jeff
Jeff Lawrence jml@cybermesa.com
Bruce Girrell on fri 10 aug 01
> A question: what is a good direction to go for a matt white raku
> glaze?
The quick answer is add more alumina (generally in the form of EPK or other
clay).
A better answer would be to direct you to Ian Currie's "Systematic Approach"
web page, which I shall now do: http://ian.currie.to/original/index.html
Bruce "believe it or not, I _can_ keep it under 100 words" Girrell
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