Patti Petit on mon 13 aug 01
I have never moved a kiln. I just purchased a Cress B23H kiln. It is a =
couple of years old and set up in the garage of a lake house at the end =
of a rough lane. It is 31 inches tall, 140 lbs. How would you move =
it? I have to get it up that lane and then about 45 miles over a =
mountain - all paved road. Should I pack the inside with cushioning, =
tape lid? I do not believe it will disassemble. Any Cress owner who can =
help. I know I'm going to have a stream of questions on this one. I =
enjoy everyone's posts. Am learning a lot. Thanks in advance.
Patti in NE GA - gateway to the Blue Ridge mtns.
Jocelyn McAuley on mon 13 aug 01
Hi Patti
I haven't moved my Cress as far as you want to go, in fact, only across
town! However we had sucess by wrapping it in several blankets and
afixing it in our truck so that it would not slide or move about.
I think that may be the key in your moving process. Cushion it from the
odd vibrations a vehicle will cause, and don't let it move about. I'm not
sure what good packing the inside would do... maybe helpful if you have
loose brick you don't want falling out. But then again- can't hurt to
fill up the interior.
Cress has a web site. Look for contact information on it and call them to
see what they recommend.
Good Luck
--
Jocelyn McAuley ><<'> jocie@worlddomination.net
Eugene, Oregon
Arnold Howard on mon 13 aug 01
It is very important to place a thin sheet of bubble wrap packing
between the lid and kiln. The packing must cover the whole rim of
firebrick that the lid touches. Otherwise you will surely damage
the lid and bricks.
It would be a good idea to tape the lid so it doesn't bounce. You
might place a 1" thick sheet of styrofoam under the kiln, also.
Arnold Howard
Paragon
--- Patti Petit wrote:
> I have never moved a kiln. I just purchased a Cress B23H kiln.
> It is a couple of years old and set up in the garage of a lake
> house at the end of a rough lane. It is 31 inches tall, 140
> lbs. How would you move it? I have to get it up that lane and
> then about 45 miles over a mountain - all paved road. Should I
> pack the inside with cushioning, tape lid? I do not believe it
> will disassemble. Any Cress owner who can help. I know I'm
> going to have a stream of questions on this one. I enjoy
> everyone's posts. Am learning a lot. Thanks in advance.
> Patti in NE GA - gateway to the Blue Ridge mtns.
>
>
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Jean Stephenson on tue 14 aug 01
I've moved a Cress kiln from Calif. to Oregon without much trouble. There
was a small chip from a piece of soft brick, but I filled it. The kiln was
wrapped in heavy blankets but that's all. Perhaps you might be able to
bungie cord it so it wouldn't move around. Not very hi tech, huh? Best of
luck. Jean
>
Snail Scott on sat 18 aug 01
My old Skutt 1027 (and its decrepit predecessor, my
old(er) Skutt 231,) have been transported thousands
of miles in the back of a U-Haul, across some of the
worst roads in the US. The elements and electrical seem
fine, but the floor and lid are cracking badly. The floor
is bulging up in the center (or sagging at the edges),
and during the last firing, the steel band popped off
and fell to the floor. (The spot-welds on the hose clamps
gave out.) Maybe I've got bad welds. (I've lost another
on this kiln, but never both on one ring.) I do think
that the life of the floor and lid were severely shortened
by their transport experience, though.
(I put a thick movers' pad on the deck of the truck, and
assembled the kiln on top. I duct-taped the sections
together, then roped the kiln to the truck tie-downs,
with stiff shims to distribute the stress of the ropes.)
One reason I like Skutt is the modular construction:
the lid and floor are both easily removable, swappable
with one another, and reversible. The latter two
choices are no longer useful, but oddly enough, the
lid and floor of that ancient 231 are in fine shape,
(unlike the rest of it) so I'm gonna swap, someday
when I can get a hand. (I can lift the rings, no
problem, but I'm a short person with proportionately
short arms, and it's hard to get a good grip without
unduly flexing the ring in the process.)
I unstack the kiln often, to load large work, so I'm
thinking of building a 'ring-lifter'. Perhaps a stiff
rod or pole as wide as the kiln, with hooks hanging
from each end, to attach to the handles I installed on
each ring. I'd love to put a pulley on the roof joist
of my kiln shed, but I'm not sure it will handle the
load, so I guess I'll stick with direct manual lifting.
Just rambling today... -Snail
Steve Mills on mon 20 aug 01
Snail,
I have replaced knackered spot welds on our Olympics with pop rivets;
they last a long time. lately I have taken to using nickel plated steel
ones, they should last even longer!
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Snail Scott writes
>My old Skutt 1027 (and its decrepit predecessor, my
>old(er) Skutt 231,) have been transported thousands
>of miles in the back of a U-Haul, across some of the
>worst roads in the US. The elements and electrical seem
>fine, but the floor and lid are cracking badly. The floor
>is bulging up in the center (or sagging at the edges),
>and during the last firing, the steel band popped off
>and fell to the floor. (The spot-welds on the hose clamps
>gave out.) Maybe I've got bad welds. (I've lost another
>on this kiln, but never both on one ring.) I do think
>that the life of the floor and lid were severely shortened
>by their transport experience, though.
>
>(I put a thick movers' pad on the deck of the truck, and
>assembled the kiln on top. I duct-taped the sections
>together, then roped the kiln to the truck tie-downs,
>with stiff shims to distribute the stress of the ropes.)
>
>One reason I like Skutt is the modular construction:
>the lid and floor are both easily removable, swappable
>with one another, and reversible. The latter two
>choices are no longer useful, but oddly enough, the
>lid and floor of that ancient 231 are in fine shape,
>(unlike the rest of it) so I'm gonna swap, someday
>when I can get a hand. (I can lift the rings, no
>problem, but I'm a short person with proportionately
>short arms, and it's hard to get a good grip without
>unduly flexing the ring in the process.)
>
>I unstack the kiln often, to load large work, so I'm
>thinking of building a 'ring-lifter'. Perhaps a stiff
>rod or pole as wide as the kiln, with hooks hanging
>from each end, to attach to the handles I installed on
>each ring. I'd love to put a pulley on the roof joist
>of my kiln shed, but I'm not sure it will handle the
>load, so I guess I'll stick with direct manual lifting.
>
>Just rambling today... -Snail
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Bruce Girrell on thu 30 aug 01
Looking at the gas kiln for sale on eBay (not really an auction, since the
first bid will take it) made me start wondering how one would go about
moving a brick kiln.
Do you dismantle it brick by brick, numbering the bricks, and reassemble
them at the new location like the statues at Abu Simbel? How much damage is
likely to occur during the separation of the bricks? What other practical
issues come up when moving a kiln like this.
I'd love to buy that thing, but I would think that with the time and expense
of moving it, I may as well order a new one from Geil and save some money.
Bruce "knee bone connected to the thigh bone, arch brick connected to the
.." Girrell
Dannon Rhudy on thu 30 aug 01
Bruce, when we sold a kiln here and it had to be moved,
the new owner came here and cut plywood to fit each
interior wall, and the floor, and a thin sheet cut
and curved to fit the arch. He cross-braced everything.
The kiln had an angle-iron frame, nine burners underneath,
was at least 25 years old. Moved it about 20 miles,
did not so much as chip a brick. Terry Sullivan at
Nottingham moved several kilns in there, and I believe
that they were set up the same way on the inside, and
they seemed to arrive ok - you might check with him.
Don't know how far they were moved.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
t 01:51 PM 8/30/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Looking at the gas kiln for sale on eBay (not really an auction, since the
>first bid will take it) made me start wondering how one would go about
>moving a brick kiln.
>
>Do you dismantle it brick by brick, numbering the bricks, and reassemble
>them at the new location like the statues at Abu Simbel? How much damage is
>likely to occur during the separation of the bricks? What other practical
>issues come up when moving a kiln like this.
>
>I'd love to buy that thing, but I would think that with the time and expense
>of moving it, I may as well order a new one from Geil and save some money.
>
>Bruce "knee bone connected to the thigh bone, arch brick connected to the
>..." Girrell
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Derek Johnson on thu 30 aug 01
------------------
Looking at the gas kiln for sale on eBay (not really an auction, since =
the
first bid will take it) made me start wondering how one would go about
moving a brick kiln................
----------
We paid 200 Cdn for a 20 cu gas kiln. It took us about 20 hours of hard =
work to take everything apart and move the bits. Was it worth it?? =20
We got to 4 venturi burners and 2 pilots with thermocouples(this more =
than paid for it)
280 K23 IFB in good shape and a 3 ft by 3ft by 3ft pile of (maybe) =
usable bits.=20
150 Hard Bricks and a variety of soft and hard brick in lesser =
conditions but more than 100 usable.
As first timers we also learned alot about building a kiln.=20
The BAD news. Roof bricks were a 95% loss, walls about 30-40% junk, =
chimney bricks below the roof were good(not sticky mortar), chimney =
bricks about the roof were 50% junk(too hard to get the mortar off)
We also got some steel I used and sheet aluminium that I used behind the =
chimney to deflect heat(Stupid me built the wood wall a little close the =
chimney).=20
Derek Johnson
Maywood Pottery
It's Sunny in Powell River, BC today, too bad we are off kayaking in the =
rain this weekend.=20
=20
John Baymore on fri 31 aug 01
Looking at the gas kiln for sale on eBay (not really an auction, since th=
e
first bid will take it) made me start wondering how one would go about
moving a brick kiln.
Do you dismantle it brick by brick, numbering the bricks, and reassemble
them at the new location like the statues at Abu Simbel? How much damage =
is
likely to occur during the separation of the bricks? What other practical=
issues come up when moving a kiln like this.
Bruce,
Don't know the particular kiln on EBay you are talking about. If it is a=
commercial unit like a Geil, Bailey, West Coast, Fredricton, or etc., a
commercial rigger can move it the same way they do when it is delivered
(see local phone book). Contact the kiln manufacturer for recommendation=
s
for preping the kiln for transport. They know their uints best.
If it is a well built unit and is FULLY and WELL enclosed in a HEAVY weld=
ed
steel frame..... it is also possible to move it as a unit, as with the
commercial units mentioned above. (Not with a tall chimney .) It tak=
es
a lot of strapping and bracing so that stuff doesn't shift. Lots of
temporary wood and styrofoam sheets. Then the ability to GENTLY lift and=
move HEAVY stuff and get onto a truck. Again.....if you have to ask how =
to
do it......... a commercial rigger is the best solution . They move
heavy rquipment for a living. =
I have to say that about ninety percent of the site built gas kilns I hav=
e
encountered in the last 30 years would NOT be easily suitable for a "pick=
it all up in one piece" move. =
MOST used site built gas kilns are really a resource as a pile of
refractories, kiln furniture, and some combustion equipment. Trying to
reconstruct it with each brick in the same location (numbering, etc.) as =
on
the original site is an exercise in patience that would tick off a saint.=
=
Yes.... you usually take these down brick by brick . Hard, DUSTY
work....lots of respirable free crystaline silica! Wear a respirator at
ALL times. Wet it down well before dismantling. Heavy work too. You'll=
usually need a truck.
Also..... I see a LOT of poorly designed and/or built gas kilns when I go=
around and do consulting work. Don't assume that it is a good design or
well built. You may not WANT to rebuild it exactly as you find it . =
I
can't tell you how many times I've had potters say that have a really
excellent kiln ....... works great....... a breeze to fire..... great
results........ and then upon asking some questions they go on to explain=
something like that they can't stack the whole floor area cause it is col=
d
or gets no reduction or something like that. But yes........ it is reall=
y
a great kiln .
IF you decide to re-build it as it sits......... take detailed photos of
every possible angle of the kiln....inside and out. Do drawings of
dimensions. Inspect the refractories to see if different grades are used=
in different locations (this is important to get it right if the kiln was=
built this way). Take VERY detailed notes. Then take the kiln down,
augmenting all your notes and photos as needed and as details are reveale=
d.
You WILL experience some loss of intact brick refractories in the moving
process. How much depends on numerous factors. How well constructed it
was to start with is a major one. The better the brick was set to start
with, the fewer pieces will have cracked due to settling forces. =
Also...... if the refractories were graded correctly (EX: -a firebox area=
is no place to have a 2300 F IFB) they will be in better condition than i=
f
the materials were selected for "cheapness" to start with. And the more
the kiln has been fired, and exactly HOW it has been fired will also affe=
ct
the number of pieces that are cracked or deteriorated. On periodic kilns=
it is the cycling (cold-hot-cold) that really stresses the physical
integrity of the refractories. Fast cycles accelerate the thermal stress=
deterioration of brickwork (not so much fiber).
Sometimes the "losses" can be pretty high...... 30 percent or more of the=
brick cracked or worse. Some really well used kilns are simply not worth=
much of anything except maybe for the burners. Caveat emptor.
Yes... you can glue togetehr broken bricks with a patching mortar or
something like ITC 100 HT..... but that is time consuming. You time is
worth money. Save the broken stuff for patching or a rubble raku kiln.
Before you bid.... get a good idea of what brand new refractories cost an=
d
new burner equipment. That way you have some knowledge about what you ar=
e
bidding on. Get as many details about the used unit as you can so that y=
ou
can make a reasonable estimate of what the kiln would cost to build using=
all new materials. Ask for some DETAILED pictures if you can't get to th=
e
site to see it.
So... a few thought to help you guage the bid you want to make. My
suggestion........ if you can't actually inspect the kiln......bid WAY lo=
w.
Best,
.............................john
PS: On the subject of kilns.......... it was a pleasure to see Hank
Murrow's really well designed and constructed kiln in CM this month. Dad=
's
engineering genes certainly got passed on . Way to go Hank!!!!!
John Baymore
River Bend Pottery
22 Riverbend Way
Wilton, NH 03086 USA
603-654-2752 (s)
800-900-1110 (s)
JohnBaymore.com
JBaymore@compuserve.com
John.Baymore@GSD-CO.com
"Earth, Water, and Fire Noborigama Woodfiring Workshop August 17-26,
2001 ( a good firing was had by all)"
Lyn Peelle on fri 25 feb 05
I'm moving across country this Fall and could use any advise on moving
a SKUTT 1027 Kiln. Suggestions on packing, wrapping, etc. would be
helpful.
Thanks,
Lyn
.....A government big enough to give you everything you want, is strong
enough to take everything you have.
------- Thomas Jefferson
Neil Fallon on fri 25 feb 05
I'm positive you will many suggestions from the group. And there are
probably just as many successful ways to move a kiln. I have moved a similar
kiln three times. What I did was pack all the kiln furniture in newspaper
and then load the kiln furniture inside the kiln, separated by layers of
crumbled paper. Pack it tight with the paper and kiln furniture. Close and
secure the lid so it cannot be open. Then move it like any fine piece of
furniture and you should be alright.
Neil Fallon
Rock Pond Pottery
www.still-working-on-the-web-sight.com
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