Fabienne Micheline Cassman on mon 20 aug 01
Greetings :)
Thank you for the replies with regard to the "Fiber Stability Question." I
sure learned a lot, as usual.
After some more digging around, I found the web site of the people who
bought APGreen out and luckily for me one distributor was nearby and was
kind enough to sell me one board of insboard 2600 hd (In the end, I
chickened out of buying any of the 2300oF rated fiber products.) This is
not unusual for them to sell small quantities I gather. So here is their
web site, RHI Refractories: http://www.hwr.com/ and
http://www.hwr.com/products/search.asp
NEXT STEP, attach the board to the inside of the lid. I don't want it to
be a permanent thing. Another new thing for me. Will it ever end? :) I
could use more comments/advice/opinions on the subject.
I'm not keen on poking holes in the lid to staple it in place. For some
reason, it just seem to defeat the whole point by further undermining the
lid. Down the road the fiber will need replacing.... more holes. Just in
case there is no better way, how deep into the brick would I have to go to
be sure it won't wiggle out of it?
Cement feels too permanent; I can't see myself chiseling the stuff off when
it needs to be replaced.
Nichrome wire "net" holding it up and winding up to the metallic circle
that holds the lid together. But it might damage the edge of the brick
when closing the lid. Although there is a small gap between lid and wall
which may be just enough anyway for the wire to get by.
Thanks :)
Fabienne whose cat is attempting to take over the keyboard :D
--
Milky Way Ceramics http://www.milkywayceramics.com/
Yes, I have learned from my mistakes...
I can reproduce them exactly.
Tony Ferguson on mon 20 aug 01
Hi,.
Use the high temp wire via making some clay
buttons--make a clay patty. Poke 2 holes through it.
Poke two holes in your lid--d run the wire down,
around and back up to the outside of your lid.
Another way is to use metal fasteners for attaching
board or fiber via your local AP green dealer--do not
use the glavanized ones--they melt and will eat
through your board like cotton candy.
Depending on your lid, one will work possibly better
than the other. Good luck.
Tony Duluth, MN
=====
--Tony Ferguson, fergyart@yahoo.com(218) 727-6339Looking to see, buy or barter artwork go to:http://www.geocities.com/fergyart/fergyartmainpage.html
Marcia Selsor on tue 21 aug 01
Dear Fabienne,
I'd bite the bullet and make it as permanent as you can. You don't want
anything dropping off during the firing. I'd think you'd do more damage
with a wiring net than cementing to the lid.
How thick is that insboard?
Marcia
Fabienne Micheline Cassman wrote:
>
> Greetings :)
>
> Thank you for the replies with regard to the "Fiber Stability Question." I
> sure learned a lot, as usual.
>
> After some more digging around, I found the web site of the people who
> bought APGreen out and luckily for me one distributor was nearby and was
> kind enough to sell me one board of insboard 2600 hd (In the end, I
> chickened out of buying any of the 2300oF rated fiber products.) This is
> not unusual for them to sell small quantities I gather. So here is their
> web site, RHI Refractories: http://www.hwr.com/ and
> http://www.hwr.com/products/search.asp
>
> NEXT STEP, attach the board to the inside of the lid. I don't want it to
> be a permanent thing. Another new thing for me. Will it ever end? :) I
> could use more comments/advice/opinions on the subject.
>
> I'm not keen on poking holes in the lid to staple it in place. For some
> reason, it just seem to defeat the whole point by further undermining the
> lid. Down the road the fiber will need replacing.... more holes. Just in
> case there is no better way, how deep into the brick would I have to go to
> be sure it won't wiggle out of it?
>
> Cement feels too permanent; I can't see myself chiseling the stuff off when
> it needs to be replaced.
>
> Nichrome wire "net" holding it up and winding up to the metallic circle
> that holds the lid together. But it might damage the edge of the brick
> when closing the lid. Although there is a small gap between lid and wall
> which may be just enough anyway for the wire to get by.
>
> Thanks :)
>
> Fabienne whose cat is attempting to take over the keyboard :D
> --
> Milky Way Ceramics http://www.milkywayceramics.com/
>
> Yes, I have learned from my mistakes...
> I can reproduce them exactly.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/May2001.html
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Tuscany2001.html
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Gallery.html
Mark Terry on thu 23 aug 01
selsor@imt.net writes:
>I'd bite the bullet and make it as permanent as you can. You don't want
>anything dropping off during the firing. I'd think you'd do more damage
>with a wiring net than cementing to the lid.
I've built several raku kilns by attaching fiber blanket to a variety of
frameworks. In my experience the wire hasn't lent to erosion of the
blanket, and if you use a ceramic button on the inside, doesn't leak much
heat. In fact on the last one I was a little chagrined when the lid was
so well insulated that I had to abandon my former practice of setting
freshly glazed pots on the lid to speed their drying.
'Don't know if that's the kind of information you're seeking, but thought
it might be helpful.
Marcia Selsor on fri 24 aug 01
I use wire and buttons on my kilns too. But Fabienne was describing
something different using the
band on the rim of the lid and wiring to that. I think fiber is a great
insulation but just one that must be treated with precaution.
Thanks,
Marcia
Mark Terry wrote:
>
> selsor@imt.net writes:
> >I'd bite the bullet and make it as permanent as you can. You don't want
> >anything dropping off during the firing. I'd think you'd do more damage
> >with a wiring net than cementing to the lid.
>
> I've built several raku kilns by attaching fiber blanket to a variety of
> frameworks. In my experience the wire hasn't lent to erosion of the
> blanket, and if you use a ceramic button on the inside, doesn't leak much
> heat. In fact on the last one I was a little chagrined when the lid was
> so well insulated that I had to abandon my former practice of setting
> freshly glazed pots on the lid to speed their drying.
>
> 'Don't know if that's the kind of information you're seeking, but thought
> it might be helpful.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/May2001.html
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Tuscany2001.html
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Gallery.html
Melissa Carpenter on sat 25 aug 01
I attached a ceramic blanket to the inside of an old kiln lid over 10 years
ago. It is a great option if you have an old lid that starts to crumble and
drop brick bits onto your pieces. I cut an octagon to fit inside and made
about 2 doz. 2 inch ceramic buttons for the inside (12) and the outside
(12) on top and used high temp wire to cinch the whole thing tight. I used
buttons on the top so the wire was not twisted tight against the soft brick.
I pre drilled tiny holes spaced evenly for the wire and each button had two
holes. Starting on the top the wire goes thru a button hole, the
pre-drilled hole in the lid, pushed thru the fiber and thru the first hole
on the inside button. Then bend the wire and return thru the other button
hole, the fiber and back thru the same pre-drilled hole in the lid and
finally thru the outside button and twisted tight with a pair of pliers. You
give up an inch of space in the kiln, but no more yellow glow escaping from
under the lid. Hope this works as well for you.
Melissa Carpenter
Claytime Studio
State College, PA
Claytime@vicon.net
SusanRaku@AOL.COM on sat 25 aug 01
Where would one get this high temp wire?
Susan
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