peter coates on mon 10 sep 01
Hello Kiln Experts
I have some questions here...
1.) should a (cone 10) kiln be built out of 2600's for the flame path =
area and 2300's for the rest of the kiln. or just built with all 2300's =
?
2.) how many inches from the kiln shelves should the wall of the kiln be =
on the none flame path sides... and how wide should flame path side be.=20
(forced air burners)
thanks for any info...
Pete in Oklahoma City
Dave Finkelnburg on tue 11 sep 01
Pete,
In my limited experience, 2300 brick seems to work fine. 2,600's are
for continuous use up to 2,600 degrees F. If you look at how many hours per
year your kiln is actually near the temperature rating of the brick, it's
very few. I'm firing monthly to cone 10 with two forced air burners and so
far my 2300's look OK.
I'd keep the kiln shelf at least 2-inches from the kiln wall where
there's no burner.
Where there is a burner--flame path, then it depends on how big the
burner is--how much power, how large the flame--and whether you want to
install a bagwall. With a bagwall you can get away with only 6-inches or
so for a 500,000-BTU/hour forced air burner. Without a bagwall, you
probably want to allow 9 to 12-inches for such a big burner. If you burner
is much smaller, then you can get away with considerably less.
Usual disclaimers here. The advice cost nothing, which may indicate
it's value!
I hope this helps.
Dave Finkelnburg in Idaho where the crickets are noisy again
tonight...
-----Original Message-----
From: peter coates
1.) should a (cone 10) kiln be built out of 2600's for the flame path area
and 2300's for the rest of the kiln. or just built with all 2300's ?
2.) how many inches from the kiln shelves should the wall of the kiln be on
the none flame path sides... and how wide should flame path side be.
(forced air burners)
______________________________________________________________
Jon Brinley on fri 31 dec 04
All Kiln Building Gurus,
I was given 5 electric kilns(I have 10 total). My goal is to=20
build a gas kiln, using the bricks out of them. Since I have=20
disassembled them I am left with the tops/lids and bottoms.
My question: Is it feasible to build the ceiling out of them.
I thought a gable style ceiling would be easier than an arch.
Maybe cutting them into long rectangle slabs.
Am I chasing my tail ??
Jon in Midland
Stephen on wed 5 jan 05
Sinse no one has answered you yet, jon, I will give it a shot. I should,
but I am not sure what you mean by gable. I asume you mean flat. First, the
lids are made of brick, and can be taken apart. You probably know this. If
you take the metal strap off they will eventually fall apart. My father
built a flat top once. He put angle iron on oposite sides of the width of
brick he needed and ran rods through the center of the needed width of as
many rows of brick as he needed, then bolted and tightened the rods through
holes in the angle iron. You could do this severalways depending on how
much insulationm you wanted. Break or saw the bricks apart. they are made
of regular sized soft fire brick.
Stephen
Jon Brinley on wed 5 jan 05
Stephen,
What I mean by gable is, like the roof of your house. Using the lids =
and bottoms I will cut them in as large of a rectangle as possible. =
Joining them together as you stated and lying them onto the walls of the =
kiln. Instead of an arch I plan on making it a gable design. I will not =
have a swinging type door, instead I will stack bricks to close it up.
My setting area will be about 30" deep x 36 wide x 36 tall. If the roof =
structure is of a gable design, it will probably have no more than a 4 =
inch rise to top center.
Thanks for your input
Jon In Midland
| |
|
