Llewellyn Kouba on wed 12 sep 01
I have worked in reduction cone 9 for a few years now and really want to
get involved with lower firings like around cone 5 cone 6 range. What
bisque temp. do you recommend for this range (stoneware) so that the clay
will be vitrified enough and yet be porous enough to succeed with this
firing range? I would love to find some exciting greens! I know a local
potter has a gorgeous rich black/ green glaze, exciting and interesting but
this is a commercial glaze which I imagine will be much higher priced that
making my own and I also do not know which one she uses. Also is it
possible to still continue to work in porcelain at cone 5-6....Perhaps I
will have to find a different porcelain body for that cone range. I will
get out my Cushing's handbook and see if there are any in that range (and
maybe should have before I popped the question)...it is getting late so
these are only my thoughts and haven't taken time to research all. ....off
to shower and bed. I will still continue to do my cone 9 reduction firings
but want to expand my Majolica range and cone 5-6. Any helps would be
appreciated. I am excited to experiment with some new colors for this cone
range and am happy I saved many formulas in my computer files. I'll be
busy reviewing many and trying loads of them.
Peace to all in our country and in a war torn world that it so badly
hungers for.
Llewellyn
Abbey Pottery
Wade Blocker on thu 13 sep 01
Cindy,
The bisque firing may be from cone 010 to cone 04,depending upon the
clay body and the personal preference of the potter. It must be fired hard
enough to be safely handled during glazing,but not so dense that the glaze
will not adhere readily. As I stated earlier my preference for a bisque
firing is to cone 06. This temperature is for both stoneware or porcelain.
Mia in ABQ
Wade Blocker on thu 13 sep 01
Llewellyn,
The bisque range is the same whether you fire for cone 5 to 6 or 9 to 10.
I generally fire to cone 06, some people fire as high as cone 04. I
personally have never felt that that was necessary. There are porcelain
bodies made for cone 5 or 6, as well as many stoneware bodies. You just
have to find one that suits you and your work. Mia in drizzly ABQ
Cindy Griffis on thu 13 sep 01
How does one decide the bisque that works for them? As a novice, I'm
not certain what I should be "looking for." I've been using cone 05,
just because it is in the middle of 04 and o6, but this doesn't
really seem like a valid reason.
--- Wade Blocker wrote:
> Llewellyn,
> The bisque range is the same whether you fire for cone 5 to 6 or
> 9 to 10.
> I generally fire to cone 06, some people fire as high as cone 04. I
> personally have never felt that that was necessary. There are
> porcelain
> bodies made for cone 5 or 6, as well as many stoneware bodies. You
> just
> have to find one that suits you and your work. Mia in drizzly ABQ
>
>
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> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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Jim Karavias on thu 13 sep 01
Cindy,
I think the way one decides is by asking "Is this working?" I know that
sounds trite but I think if you look at your goal for the bisque you can ask
yourself if you're meeting it. Does it make the piece strong enough to work
with during the glazing process yet remain porous enough to wick the
moisture from the glaze at an appropriate rate? Those are the questions I'd
ask myself and probably strive for the lowest temp (for economy) that meets
that goal.
Regards,
Jim Karavias
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Cindy Griffis
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2001 6:22 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Bisque range for cone 5-6
How does one decide the bisque that works for them? As a novice, I'm
not certain what I should be "looking for." I've been using cone 05,
just because it is in the middle of 04 and o6, but this doesn't
really seem like a valid reason.
--- Wade Blocker wrote:
> Llewellyn,
> The bisque range is the same whether you fire for cone 5 to 6 or
> 9 to 10.
> I generally fire to cone 06, some people fire as high as cone 04. I
> personally have never felt that that was necessary. There are
> porcelain
> bodies made for cone 5 or 6, as well as many stoneware bodies. You
> just
> have to find one that suits you and your work. Mia in drizzly ABQ
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Paul Lewing on fri 14 sep 01
on 9/14/01 1:22 AM, Cindy Griffis at cgriffisteach@YAHOO.COM wrote:
> How does one decide the bisque that works for them? As a novice, I'm
> not certain what I should be "looking for." I've been using cone 05,
> just because it is in the middle of 04 and o6, but this doesn't
> really seem like a valid reason.
Cindy, it almost doesn't matter. I've heard of people bisquing anywhere
from 010 to 01. I've always done it to 08. Well, not always. When I was
in school we bisqued to 06. When I got my own studio, I dropped it to 08 to
save firing time and money, and noticed no difference.
There are a couple of problems that may be solved by bisquing higher.
Pinholing and bloating in the finished ware may be corrected by bisquing
higher if the increased heat is enough to burn out the stuff that's causing
the problem. And if your large platters, especially porcelain platters, are
coming out of the bisque cracked, bisquing higher may solve that.
Otherwise, bisque as low as you can and still get ware that is sturdy enough
to handle the way you like to glaze. The only difference you'll notice is
that the lower you bisque, the thinner your glaze slurry should be, or the
shorter time you dip the ware into it, to get the same thickness of glaze
coat.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Paul Taylor on sat 15 sep 01
Dear Cindy
I think Paul's letter covers the issue fully enough.
I would like to add a caveat . If you are reduction firing and you are
starting reduction at a lower temperature of say 900 c ( this can affect
reduced iron colors and reduce the body for later to reoxidize red/ orange)
you need to make sure the biscuit removes all the trapped carbon. This can
be done by a soak in oxidation from 750c to 850c and adds no appreciable
cost to the firing.
because it is easier to communicate temperatures There is an illusion
formed that they are more important than the time and atmosphere . What is
important in a biscuit firing and in all ceramic processes is the dynamics
like time in relation to things like temperature. The time you take is more
important in a biscuit firing than the nuances of the top temperature.
Although too high a temperature encourages crawling in my glazes.
As usual one of your simple questions throw up a lot of issues in my mind.
There is a school of thought that the technology and technics that some of
us seem to get involved with is not part of the creative process and other
give the impression that it is all that is concerned with the process. My
views come in the middle I get my thrill from both forms of exploration .
Art criticism has been based on the belief that the conceptual and
creative process has been the driving force in art. However there is as good
an argument to for the idea that technology came before concept. Like
impressionism was more about paint coming in tubes than a reaction to the
photographic image. Not many of us artists are that comfortable with
technology and I wonder if it is more to do with the propaganda of art
criticism than the abilities of the artist that we have a distrust of its
effect on the creative process
--I am afraid I have become one of the people my parents warned me against.
http://www.anu.ie/westportpottery
> From: Paul Lewing
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 21:41:35 +0000
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Bisque range for cone 5-6
>
> on 9/14/01 1:22 AM, Cindy Griffis at cgriffisteach@YAHOO.COM wrote:
>
>> How does one decide the bisque that works for them? As a novice, I'm
>> not certain what I should be "looking for." I've been using cone 05,
>> just because it is in the middle of 04 and o6, but this doesn't
>> really seem like a valid reason.
>
> Cindy, it almost doesn't matter. I've heard of people bisquing anywhere
> from 010 to 01. I've always done it to 08. Well, not always. When I was
> in school we bisqued to 06. When I got my own studio, I dropped it to 08 to
> save firing time and money, and noticed no difference.
> There are a couple of problems that may be solved by bisquing higher.
> Pinholing and bloating in the finished ware may be corrected by bisquing
> higher if the increased heat is enough to burn out the stuff that's causing
> the problem. And if your large platters, especially porcelain platters, are
> coming out of the bisque cracked, bisquing higher may solve that.
> Otherwise, bisque as low as you can and still get ware that is sturdy enough
> to handle the way you like to glaze. The only difference you'll notice is
> that the lower you bisque, the thinner your glaze slurry should be, or the
> shorter time you dip the ware into it, to get the same thickness of glaze
> coat.
> Paul Lewing, Seattle
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