Marcia Selsor on thu 20 sep 01
I made several molds for this type of platter.
One was taken off (in plaster) a "sausage stainless steel bowl about 36"
diameter. The mold is about 24 inches. Another was taken from a glass
form. A third was taken by pouring plaster into a cloth which was
allowed to slump in a trash can.
I have thrown feet and added handbuilt feet as well.
Marcia in Montana
still having a tough time focusing and sleeping after last week. Most of
my group is still going to Italy in Oct.
Travis Maxwell wrote:
>
> I have this idea of making large platters by laying a slab of clay on a centered hump mold attached to a wheel head and throwing/trimming a foot on the bottom. The platters would be made upside down on the wheel and have a curved shape. I was wondering if anyone out there had experience in making the plaster molds for this process. I know several possible ways to do this, all with their advantages and disadvantages, but am interested to hear from somone with experience in platters in this way.
> thanks,
> Travis Maxwell
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
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--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/May2001.html
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Tuscany2001.html
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Gallery.html
Travis Maxwell on thu 20 sep 01
I have this idea of making large platters by laying a slab of clay on a =
centered hump mold attached to a wheel head and throwing/trimming a foot =
on the bottom. The platters would be made upside down on the wheel and =
have a curved shape. I was wondering if anyone out there had experience =
in making the plaster molds for this process. I know several possible =
ways to do this, all with their advantages and disadvantages, but am =
interested to hear from somone with experience in platters in this way.
thanks,
Travis Maxwell
Frank Colson on thu 20 sep 01
I did something like this in class: We made molds with a large plastic
bucket covered with a cloth. The cloth was secured to the rim of the bucket, and
was not taut. We lay the slabs on the cloth .We then assembled the foot. Worked
quite nice- but don't expect a "perfect" effect.
----- Original Message -----
From: Travis
Maxwell
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: 9/20/2001 12:50:45 PM
Subject: platter hump mold making
I have this idea of making large platters by laying a slab of clay on a
centered hump mold attached to a wheel head and throwing/trimming a foot on the
bottom. The platters would be made upside down on the wheel and have
a curved shape. I was wondering if anyone out there had experience in
making the plaster molds for this process. I know several possible
ways to do this, all with their advantages and disadvantages, but am interested
to hear from somone with experience in platters in this way.
thanks,
Travis Maxwell
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Chris Stanley on thu 20 sep 01
It works! It is really simple. The only problem is applying the amount of
pressure on the mold to compress the clay. The artist you need to consult
is Richard Sperry. Richard taught at UW in Washington State.
There were some articles in Ceramics monthly that showed his techniques.
The articles were written in the middle to late 80's if my memory is
correct!
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Travis Maxwell
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 11:51 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: platter hump mold making
I have this idea of making large platters by laying a slab of clay on a
centered hump mold attached to a wheel head and throwing/trimming a foot on
the bottom. The platters would be made upside down on the wheel and have a
curved shape. I was wondering if anyone out there had experience in making
the plaster molds for this process. I know several possible ways to do
this, all with their advantages and disadvantages, but am interested to hear
from somone with experience in platters in this way.
thanks,
Travis Maxwell
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Dai Scott on thu 20 sep 01
Travis, I've made plates of varying sizes using the method you describe.
I've thrown the original(s) UPSIDE DOWN on a batt, on the wheel. So, what
you're looking at on your wheel is the bottom of the INSIDE of a
plate/platter. (I make mine fairly flat at the bottom, with a wide rim.)
This is the original from which you make a "master" out of plaster.
Remove the wet original from the wheel (on its batt, of course), and using
either a 6" (approx.) wide sheet of thin metal or flexible plastic, make a
wall around the perimeter of the plate---snug it right up to the edge of the
clay(which is the rim of your plate)so that the bottom edge of the "wall" is
sitting right down on the batt . Overlap the ends of the wall and secure
with duct tape (this is Red Green country!). Using more clay, seal the
outside bottom edge of the wall to the batt.
You are now ready to pour the master mold. I use Hydrocal, mainly because
Potter's Plaster isn't readily available locally, and Hydrocal is. I think
it's sturdier, anyway. So mix up your plaster, and pour it over the
original, making sure to cover the whole thing, but it doesn't have to be
overly deep. Make the plaster as level as possible. When the plaster has
set up, remove the wet clay original, clean up the edges of the master
(there will be a tiny "jog" where the wall overlapped) and leave to cure for
a couple of days. At this point, you will have a "bowl"-shaped mold.
Now you're ready to make your actual molds, and you can make as many as you
want from the master. Using a drill and very small bit, drill a hole in the
center of the master---this is for shooting air into with compressed air to
facilitate releasing the mold (DON'T make it big enough for plaster to drip
out of!). Make another wall from a flexible sheet, this time around the
master, taking the usual precautions for sealing gaps. Then grease
everything with Vaseline, including the hole and the wall (forget everything
you've heard about keeping plaster molds spanking clean, because you don't
need this one to absorb water, like if you were slipcasting). The master
must be absolutely level now, or you'll have trouble with the end result,
trying to throw a footring on it. I sit the master on a board and lay a
level across it and then put wedges under the board till everything's level.
Now pour your mold, striving to keep the top surface flat or slightly
concave---pour quite "wet" so that the plaster will level itself out and not
mound up. When the plaster is set, remove it from the master, using a shot
of air at the hole to release it. You can repeat this last process and make
many molds from the same master. You should let the molds dry for a day or
two before using them, so they don't chip or damage so easily.
To use the mold, I place a slab of clay, rolled to appropriate thickness, on
the mold, rough-trim the edge, put clay-covered mold on my Giffin Grip, take
a damp sponge and run it over the clay a few times with the wheel turning to
familiarize the clay to the shape (that bloody clay memory!); add a coil
footring which I then "throw" to smooth out and trim; trim the rim and
smooth. I leave the plate on the mold to VERY firm leatherhard, when I
remove it and trim and sponge the inner edge of the rim.
Yes, I can throw a plate from scratch, and have done many of them, but I
really, really like the look of a stack of plates all with the same rise and
rim angle and diameter. I guess if I could afford a ram press, that's how I
would be doing them. It's no less work than throwing, in fact probably much
slower, but I like the finished product!
Good luck, Travis!
Dai in Kelowna, BC,
"In three words I can sum up everything I've learned about life. IT GOES
ON."
potterybydai@home.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Travis Maxwell"
To:
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 9:50 AM
Subject: platter hump mold making
I have this idea of making large platters by laying a slab of clay on a
centered hump mold attached to a wheel head and throwing/trimming a foot on
the bottom. The platters would be made upside down on the wheel and have a
curved shape. I was wondering if anyone out there had experience in making
the plaster molds for this process. I know several possible ways to do
this, all with their advantages and disadvantages, but am interested to hear
from somone with experience in platters in this way.
thanks,
Travis Maxwell
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Fredrick Paget on fri 21 sep 01
About six years ago I posted details of how to make a hump mold of plaster
by spinning it on the wheel while liquid in a container.
Look in the archives (date 96/06/30) under fredrick@well.com item no. 003536.
This method can make rather deep vase like molds, too, by spinning fast. Or
you can make just a shallow slump mold by spinning slower. The slump mold
is used as a master to cast a hump.
When you have the slump mold, follow the excellent directions of Dai Scott
,, in a Sept.20, 2001 post, to get working hump
molds.
Fred Paget
From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
Donald Goldsobel on fri 21 sep 01
One easy way is to throw a bowl, trim the bottom round and bisque. It will
give you a hump mold witout the weight of solid plaster. You can use the
interior to dry scrap clay if you line it with a cloth to keep the clay from
sticking
Good luck
Donald Goldsobel
Frank Gaydos on fri 21 sep 01
Travis,
I make 26" wide platters using the hump method.
A very easy way to create your master mold is to purchase a round toboggan
sled. Looks like a trash can lid only smooth and round.
You will grease the inside and "splash" some plaster into it covering the
entire surface. A thin coat only.Use your fingers and 'flick' it. Let dry.
Next, find some Styrofoam and cut it to the shape of the curve. The
thickness should be at least an inch and not too much more than two inches .
The idea here is to fill out the space with Styrofoam and not plaster. That
way you will be able to lift it easily.
Now mix some more plaster and pour into the bottom of the sled, then place
the Styrofoam into it and weight down so it sits till the plaster hardens.
Allow for expansion and overflow. If you need more spaces filled, then mix
more plaster and finish.
If needed, sand the Styrofoam so it and the surrounding plaster are level.
I make an oversize bat out of plywood and drill the appropriate holes.
Should be slightly larger than the mold.
Cover with carpet padding and staple together and trim.
This will allow you to just place the plaster on the bat without slipping.
Works great!
Hint on slabbing:
I like to work the slab while on the wheel. I first paddle hard with a wood
block, then fingers, then rib with rubber and then metal. Sometimes I like
the pattern the wood block gives and work with it avoiding the ribbing.
Extrude the foot and rim and attach and throw onto the upside-down platter
while on the wheel.
Good luck.
Frank Gaydos
----- Original Message -----
From: "Travis Maxwell"
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 12:50 PM
Subject: platter hump mold making
sharon31 on sun 23 sep 01
Most of my wares I make on hump molds. I made some in the new way, real fun,
especially when you have to remove them and they are not heavy,. My problem
is that I do not work "clean" and I finish unsmooth. My usual way is to make
the Round plaster molds in rounded plastic shapes. Farmers: The chickens
automatic water dish is great! It is
coming also in some shapes from different models& suppliers. You can use it
as it is, but than you must use plastic or material and you cannot control
the smoothness of the inside. I meant (but never did) to add leaves before
pouring the cast, for having the leaves on the plaster hump mold.
I hit the clay strongly to the mold, for smoothness I do not go home before
I am sure it is separated and better if I can remove it from the from the
plaster mold. The most important point, use groged body, (can be delicate
grog for better drying) to avoid too fast shrinkage >>>cracking !!!
Ababi Sharon
ababisharon@hotmail.com
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
http://www.israelceramics.org/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Stanley"
To:
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 10:36
Subject: Re: platter hump mold making
> It works! It is really simple. The only problem is applying the amount
of
> pressure on the mold to compress the clay. The artist you need to
consult
> is Richard Sperry. Richard taught at UW in Washington State.
> There were some articles in Ceramics monthly that showed his techniques.
> The articles were written in the middle to late 80's if my memory is
> correct!
> Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
> Behalf Of Travis Maxwell
> Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 11:51 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: platter hump mold making
>
> I have this idea of making large platters by laying a slab of clay on a
> centered hump mold attached to a wheel head and throwing/trimming a foot
on
> the bottom. The platters would be made upside down on the wheel and have
a
> curved shape. I was wondering if anyone out there had experience in
making
> the plaster molds for this process. I know several possible ways to do
> this, all with their advantages and disadvantages, but am interested to
hear
> from somone with experience in platters in this way.
> thanks,
> Travis Maxwell
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
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