Lorraine Pierce on wed 26 sep 01
Hi Sandi...did you purchase any of Tom Coleman's ^10 Porcelain from Aardvark
after the workshop? I am finding that my pots made using this porcelain do
not accept most of the glazes I am using.(Several from his books.) For the
first time I am also using muriatic acid in the glaze as he suggested and
the application to stoneware seems smooth,but there is often cracking of the
unfired glaze or, on the porcelain pots, the body seems too tight and the
glaze can slide as well as crack when dipped. I bisque at ^06, and this
problem can happen with a thin application of glaze. I would like to hear
from others using this porcelain. Does this porcelain need 'porcelain
glazes'? The little I did with porcelain years ago, ^10, I used one of
Sander's classic celadons, as well as tenmoku, copper red and other standard
glazes of the '70s on the east coast. Thanks, Lori Pierce in New Port
Richey, Fl.
Hank Murrow on wed 26 sep 01
Lori wrote;
>Hi Sandi...did you purchase any of Tom Coleman's ^10 Porcelain from Aardvark
>after the workshop? I am finding that my pots made using this porcelain do
>not accept most of the glazes I am using.(Several from his books.) For the
>first time I am also using muriatic acid in the glaze as he suggested and
>the application to stoneware seems smooth,but there is often cracking of the
>unfired glaze or, on the porcelain pots, the body seems too tight and the
>glaze can slide as well as crack when dipped. I bisque at ^06, and this
>problem can happen with a thin application of glaze. I would like to hear
>from others using this porcelain. Does this porcelain need 'porcelain
>glazes'? The little I did with porcelain years ago, ^10, I used one of
>Sander's classic celadons, as well as tenmoku, copper red and other standard
>glazes of the '70s on the east coast.
Dear Lori;
You might try bisquing a little lower as some of these very
translucent bodies flux at a lower temperature, and become very difficult
to glaze.
Regards, Hank in Eugene (happily)
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