Jocelyn McAuley on sat 6 oct 01
Hi Teri
Val Cushings handbook lists several approaches to take when attempting to
convert from ^9 to ^6. Some of these may work in your case...
- decrease the amount of flux in your recipe. Suggested is to try
switching to nepheline syenite or Kona F-4
- test varying percentages of frit added to your cone 10 formulation. Some
suggestions: Ferro frits 3124, 3134, 3185, CC 257-2 (high barium).
- try adding increments of lithium carbonate.
good luck
--
Jocelyn McAuley ><<'> jocie@worlddomination.net
Eugene, Oregon
teri frame on sat 6 oct 01
I'm looking for suggestions on converting ^10 glaze
recipes to ^6. Any advice is much appreciated.
Teri.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
Paul Lewing on sat 6 oct 01
on 10/6/01 7:11 AM, teri frame at mstframe@YAHOO.COM wrote:
> I'm looking for suggestions on converting ^10 glaze
> recipes to ^6. Any advice is much appreciated.
Teri,
it usually can't be done. What you need to do to make that conversion is to
take out Al2O3 and SiO2, at least. Often there isn't enough available
silica and clay to remove to get you down low enough. And often you also
need to add some boron to get it to melt. By this time, what you end up
with is just not very similar to what you started with.
Also, most people, when they make that temperature switch, also switch from
reduction to electric firing. This will change the look of your glazes more
than the temperature change will.
I have, however, had some luck getting usable ^5 glazes from ^10 ones by
what I call the TIFTIM method. That's Throw In Frit Till It Melts. You
won't get identical look glazes, but you sometimes get something you can
use.
My advice is, it's not worth the testing. There are plenty of glazes at
cone 6 to start with. You'll never make cone 6 oxidation look like cone 10
reduction, and it's not worth it to try. Just enjoy what the new firing can
do.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
scott lykens on sat 6 oct 01
try replacing potash spar with neph sy and see how far that gets you, Should
be pretty far, You should be able to tweeek it from there.
>From: teri frame
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: ^10 to ^6 conversion
>Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 00:11:37 -0700
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>Received: from [209.115.31.35] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id
>MHotMailBD883BB600C64004379FD1731F2305750; Sat, 06 Oct 2001 04:53:36 -0700
>Received: from LSV (209.115.31.36) by mail.acers (Worldmail 1.3.167); 6 Oct
>2001 07:32:48 -0400
>Received: from LSV.CERAMICS.ORG by LSV.CERAMICS.ORG (LISTSERV-TCP/IP
>release 1.8d) with spool id 16921 for CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG;
>Sat, 6 Oct 2001 07:29:01 -0400
>Received: from 216.136.173.239 by LSV.CERAMICS.ORG (SMTPL release 1.0d)
>with TCP; Sat, 6 Oct 2001 02:47:52 -0400
>Received: from [206.124.10.93] by web12702.mail.yahoo.com via HTTP; Sat, 06
>Oct 2001 00:11:37 PDT
>From owner-clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG Sat, 06 Oct 2001 04:55:36 -0700
>Approved-By: melpots2@PCLINK.COM
>Message-ID: <20011006071137.86842.qmail@web12702.mail.yahoo.com>
>Sender: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>
>I'm looking for suggestions on converting ^10 glaze
>recipes to ^6. Any advice is much appreciated.
>Teri.
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just
>$8.95/month.
>http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
Paul Lewing on sun 7 oct 01
on 10/7/01 3:30 AM, Jocelyn McAuley at jocie@WORLDDOMINATION.NET wrote:
> Val Cushings handbook lists several approaches to take when attempting to
> convert from ^9 to ^6. Some of these may work in your case...
>
> - decrease the amount of flux in your recipe. Suggested is to try
> switching to nepheline syenite or Kona F-4
Jocelyn, I'm sure you meant to say "Increase the amount of flux...", right?
And switching from a potash spar, (like Custer) to a soda spar (like Kona
F-4) sometimes will drop the maturing temperature of a glaze by one cone,
but not more. Subbing nepheline syenite for the potash spar will usually
get you about two cones, but not more.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Ababi on sun 7 oct 01
Paul is mainly right.
Think about this example:You can boil water for 5 hours, up to 70C ,
the water will vanish but you will not have your T or coffee boiled
properly. Some points about glazing need certain fire work.
I try from time to time to change some glazes from the school from
1240C to 1220C and some other times just exercises for the mind.
Ababi Sharon
Kibbutz Shoval- Israel
officially Glaze addict
Here are two glazes from the list of Don Goodrich!
KEEN GREEN (^6 OX)
Gerstley Borate 1088
Potash Feldspar 3680
Flint 1504
Kaolin 200
Whiting 648
Zircopax 480
Dolomite 480
Bentonite 80
Rutile 200
7% Copper Carb. 571.2
Now the second:Nephalyn S. instead the Potash F.
Much keener.
Apply thin/
when you have carved or imprinted leaves lines in a dish, they will be
darker.
sharon@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
http://www.israelceramics.org/
---------- Original Message ----------
>on 10/6/01 7:11 AM, teri frame at mstframe@YAHOO.COM wrote:
>> I'm looking for suggestions on converting ^10 glaze
>> recipes to ^6. Any advice is much appreciated.
>Teri,
>it usually can't be done. What you need to do to make that conversion
>is to
>take out Al2O3 and SiO2, at least. Often there isn't enough available
>silica and clay to remove to get you down low enough. And often you
>also
>need to add some boron to get it to melt. By this time, what you end up
>with is just not very similar to what you started with.
>Also, most people, when they make that temperature switch, also switch
>from
>reduction to electric firing. This will change the look of your glazes
>more
>than the temperature change will.
>I have, however, had some luck getting usable ^5 glazes from ^10 ones by
>what I call the TIFTIM method. That's Throw In Frit Till It Melts. You
>won't get identical look glazes, but you sometimes get something you can
>use.
>My advice is, it's not worth the testing. There are plenty of glazes at
>cone 6 to start with. You'll never make cone 6 oxidation look like
>cone 10
>reduction, and it's not worth it to try. Just enjoy what the new
>firing can
>do.
>Paul Lewing, Seattle
>________________________________________________________________________
>______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Wade Blocker on sun 7 oct 01
Jocelyn.
I have tried conversions of cone 10 glazes. I have been able to use them
at cone 6. However the character of the original glaze is not the same. Mia
in Sunny ABQ, where in the early morning the sky is dotted with hundreds of
balloons.
Ron Roy on mon 8 oct 01
I am sure Jocelyn means increase the fluxes. Another way to say this is
decrease the alumina and silica.
Best to do this kind of conversion using calculation software - keeping
silica/alumina ratios the same.
Neph Sy will be more effective than F4 and you will need some boron.
I certainly would not recommend a high barium frit as it is simply not needed.
I could be of more help here if I knew what the glaze looked like and had
the recipe.
RR
>Val Cushings handbook lists several approaches to take when attempting to
>convert from ^9 to ^6. Some of these may work in your case...
>
>- decrease the amount of flux in your recipe. Suggested is to try
>switching to nepheline syenite or Kona F-4
>
>- test varying percentages of frit added to your cone 10 formulation. Some
>suggestions: Ferro frits 3124, 3134, 3185, CC 257-2 (high barium).
>
>- try adding increments of lithium carbonate.
>
>good luck
>
>--
>Jocelyn McAuley ><<'> jocie@worlddomination.net
>Eugene, Oregon
Ron Roy
RR# 4
15084 Little Lake Rd..
Brighton,
Ontario, Canada
KOK 1H0
Residence 613-475-9544
Studio 613-475-3715
Fax 613-475-3513
Wanda Holmes on mon 8 oct 01
I have seen several references to Val Cushing's book, but searches of both
Amazon and Barnes & Nobles yielded nothing more than a couple of books in
which he written the introduction. Can someone give me the title,
publisher, year of publication, etc.? Thanks, Wanda
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Paul Lewing
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2001 5:17 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: ^10 to ^6 conversion
on 10/7/01 3:30 AM, Jocelyn McAuley at jocie@WORLDDOMINATION.NET wrote:
> Val Cushings handbook lists several approaches to take when attempting to
> convert from ^9 to ^6. Some of these may work in your case...
>
> - decrease the amount of flux in your recipe. Suggested is to try
> switching to nepheline syenite or Kona F-4
Jocelyn, I'm sure you meant to say "Increase the amount of flux...", right?
And switching from a potash spar, (like Custer) to a soda spar (like Kona
F-4) sometimes will drop the maturing temperature of a glaze by one cone,
but not more. Subbing nepheline syenite for the potash spar will usually
get you about two cones, but not more.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Jocelyn McAuley on mon 8 oct 01
On Sun, 7 Oct 2001, Paul Lewing wrote:
> > Val Cushings handbook lists several approaches to take when attempting to
> > convert from ^9 to ^6. Some of these may work in your case...
> >
> > - decrease the amount of flux in your recipe. Suggested is to try
> > switching to nepheline syenite or Kona F-4
>
> Jocelyn, I'm sure you meant to say "Increase the amount of flux...", right?
doh! [Homer Simpson sound]
Both Paul and Ron are right. Thanks.
--
Jocelyn McAuley ><<'> jocie@worlddomination.net
Eugene, Oregon
Doug Gray on tue 9 oct 01
I've been away from my email for a few days and am still trying to get
caught up, so I apologize if all this has been covered. I agree with
the responses I've read thus far, increasing fluxes, decreasing alumina
and silica, substituting Neph Sy. for potash or custer feldspar, and
creating a line blend test with incremental increases in frit. I would
add this though. Once you've made your change, and fired it in the
kiln, run the usual tests on it, acid, freeze thaw, etc. I've been
working off and on for most of a year now of converting cone 10 celedons
to cone 6-7 range. It is easy enough to lower the melting temperature
of a glaze but I'd run the recipe through a glaze calc program just in
case to check for appropriate levels, particularly if the glaze is to be
used on functional ware. Several of my converted glazes look fine to
the naked eye, but are not "good" glazes. So, I'm still working on fine
tuning two or three of them. Once I am happy with the results, I'll
share the recipes. Don't want to give all the details away just yet...
Doug, SC
| |
|
