Anji Henderson on fri 19 oct 01
I was initially taught to throw l-o-n-g neck bulbous
bottles dry .. I haven't done it in a long time
because I haven't had a kiln to fire in that I can be
a kiln hog... :)
Simply .. Anyway you center and do your initial
pulls normally... But when you are ready to shape and
then make the neck you stop using water.. While the
form is still sort of open you sponge out all the
water, and have a dry towel at the ready.. Then you
start shaping.. Drying your hands between every
pull/push/whatever (how about touch) When you get to
the neck you just press inward, slowly until it starts
getting thick and then throw the thickness up and
start inward again.. until you have one of those
really tall thin necks ... Some I have done I have
used the pin tool to throw..
I assume that this method could be used for the whole
process.. and be used for all forms.. I never tried it
.. But the trick is to keep your hands dry dry dry ..
any bit of moisture makes your hand skip, and ruin
what you are working on .. Although, being completely
dry may not be true for things such as mugs and small
stuff... But if there is no extra moisture and the
clay is consistent it does work.. surprised the H***
outta me ..
Shoot, I really have to make those big ol' skinny
necked bottles again ... I have made tiny ones but
that is just not as satisfying...
Anji
> GlassyClass wrote:
>
> > Good Morning,
> >
> > Reading Usenet this morning, does anyone here
> "Throw Dry" ? Are there any
> > tricks to doing it, and what does it get you in
> the throwing process ? Was
> > wondering, if it was even possible, since it seems
> that you need the water
> > for friction reduction.
> >
> > Just read a short mention/reference to in a
> message. Folks on Usenet tend
> > not to post their emails, since it is open to all
> (email spiders included
> > :-( )
> >
> > Bud
> >
=====
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GlassyClass on fri 19 oct 01
Good Morning,
Reading Usenet this morning, does anyone here "Throw Dry" ? Are there any
tricks to doing it, and what does it get you in the throwing process ? Was
wondering, if it was even possible, since it seems that you need the water
for friction reduction.
Just read a short mention/reference to in a message. Folks on Usenet tend
not to post their emails, since it is open to all (email spiders included
:-( )
Bud
pammyam on fri 19 oct 01
Bud, you might want to search the archives at
www.potters.org. There was a discussion about this not too
long ago. Steve Branfman is someone whom I've seen throw
dry. It's amazing. If you ever have a chance, take one of
his workshops. I don't know if he discusses the technique
in his books, but you can enquire at sbranfpots@aol.com (The
Potters Shop).
Pam
----- Original Message -----
From: "GlassyClass"
To:
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2001 9:46 AM
Subject: Throwing DRY ?
: Good Morning,
:
: Reading Usenet this morning, does anyone here "Throw Dry"
? Are there any
: tricks to doing it, and what does it get you in the
throwing process ? Was
: wondering, if it was even possible, since it seems that
you need the water
: for friction reduction.
:
: Just read a short mention/reference to in a message. Folks
on Usenet tend
: not to post their emails, since it is open to all (email
spiders included
: :-( )
:
: Bud
:
pammyam on fri 19 oct 01
Oops, that's PottersShop@aol.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "pammyam"
To: "Ceramic Arts Discussion List"
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2001 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: Throwing DRY ?
: Bud, you might want to search the archives at
: www.potters.org. There was a discussion about this not
too
: long ago. Steve Branfman is someone whom I've seen throw
: dry. It's amazing. If you ever have a chance, take one
of
: his workshops. I don't know if he discusses the technique
: in his books, but you can enquire at sbranfpots@aol.com
(The
: Potters Shop).
:
: Pam
Bruce Girrell on fri 19 oct 01
> Reading Usenet this morning, does anyone here "Throw Dry" ? Are there any
> tricks to doing it, and what does it get you in the throwing process ?
Some people throw dry when forming a piece, but I usually do it when
refining a form. The biggest trick that I can think of is to work slower.
Slow the wheel and don't be as aggressive with your movements.
There is, as you suspect, a lot more friction. Use this to your advantage.
You can feel the clay better. This sensitivity is also enhanced by using a
slower speed.
Typically, I throw a form using water as most do. Because I do not have the
skills of a master yet, my forms are less than what I am aiming for. I like
tight, yet flowing, forms. I usually use about 6-7 lbs of clay to throw a
12" dia. by 8" high form. A closed form this large (well, it's large for
_me_) tends to collapse easily because the outer edge cannot always support
the weight of the clay that has been turned back toward the center. If I
feel that the form might collapse, I will torch the clay to dry it or just
stop working on it and let it sit overnight. From that point on, I work it
dry only. Essentially, you can think of it in the same manner as if I were
working on a coiled or pinched pot, except that the starting point is a
thrown pot.
I use ribs and paddles a lot in refining the shape. I keep it on the bat so
that I can maintain symmetry. As long as you keep the clay plastic, you can
push it, stretch it, inflate it with air, and lots of other things. The
stiffer clay allows me to make much thinner walls than I could possibly
create if the clay were wet. In time, I may gain the skill necessary to
create these forms while the clay is wetter, but for now dry throwing works
well for me.
Bruce "I'll have that clay with just a whisper of vermouth, please" Girrell
Earl Brunner on fri 19 oct 01
I wouldn't exactly call it "dry", but I can end up with stiffer (drier)
clay after I throw it than it was before. The idea is to use very
little water. I sponge a thin coat onto the walls of the cylinder, keep
my hands and any part of my arms that might come in contact with the
clay wet, so that the clay doesn't "stick" to my inside arm. With this
technique is also the idea I think of throwing fast. I get the cylinder
nearly pulled in three to five pulls normally, and then focus on shaping
the form (or forming the shape). Some times I only moisten the surface
every two or three pulls.
GlassyClass wrote:
> Good Morning,
>
> Reading Usenet this morning, does anyone here "Throw Dry" ? Are there any
> tricks to doing it, and what does it get you in the throwing process ? Was
> wondering, if it was even possible, since it seems that you need the water
> for friction reduction.
>
> Just read a short mention/reference to in a message. Folks on Usenet tend
> not to post their emails, since it is open to all (email spiders included
> :-( )
>
> Bud
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec/
bruec@anv.net
iandol on sat 20 oct 01
Dear Bud,
Check out Leon Nigrosh, "Claywork" 87-8 and C.M. Vol 21, No 8 pp =
22-26.(Oct 1973).
No tricks.
You get taller pots, stronger pots, thinner pots, lighter pots.
Based on the premise that clay in the correct condition for throwing =
contains sufficient lubrication in the form of the finest particles of =
clay which rest on the surface and on the fact that clay, as it is being =
thrown, absorbs water and declines in structural strength.
Also, it is better not to throw with fresh water. Aged slip of a uniform =
consistency has much better lubricating properties.
Ivor Lewis. Redhill, South Australia
Mike Gordon on sat 20 oct 01
Bud,
When I throw 25lbs. or more I flood the clay with water while centering
and pulling up the cylinder. I keep the bottom dry by sponging it out
after each pull. I try to keep it to 4 pulls but seem to always try for
that extra inch or two with a fifth pull. Then I wash and dry my hands
and arms and use one of those deadly metal ribs on the inside first with
the curved side and scrape off all the wet slip clay and start a slight
curve in the process. Wipe off the wet clay as it builds up, too. Then
with the straight side I repeat the process, scrape off clean, scrape
off. My own taste is for a smooth surface as I shape. When it is smooth
and dry I use only finger tips to finish the shape untill I get to the
lip and then I use a little water.Mike
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