claymom on fri 26 oct 01
Our solution when I had wheel building workshops with high school kids was
to use a short piece of threaded pipe maybe 6 inches long screwed into a
pipe flange. The inside diameter of the pipe needs to be just larger than
the shaft so it can slide over it. The pipe flange is then bolted to the
plywood base. A hole maybe 3/16 or 1/4 inch dia. is drilled through the
pipe AND through the shaft. Then a bolt goes through the pipe and shaft and
thus attaches the flywheel to the shaft. You pour ( I think we used mortor
mix......anyway it was a standard 80 pound bag of ready-mix) and finish the
concrete with maybe some chicken wire for reinforcement on the plywood base
and then assemble it onto the shaft. Worked for us..........about 100 kids
over the years.
Gerry aka claymom@palacenet.net
>
>
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GlassyClass on fri 26 oct 01
Good Morning Everyone,
Yesterday, my step father "Paul" and I went and looked at a used kick wheel
for a $100.00, he said he would buy it if he felt it was a good bargain. So
I am the proud owner of a kick wheel now, I have got it greased, and cleaned
up, and threw my first little brown jug on it last night :-).
The flywheel on it is a cast concrete, very home made looking, and a little
out of round, and is thicker and thinner in places and heavier on one side,
only it works, and runs pretty smooth, only I was thinking about making a
new one for it.
Does anyone have any pointers about how I might go about this ?
What I have a picture of in my mind, is a 3/4 inch plywood base, with
plastic covered bender board for the form edge, not sure what to use for the
shaft collar.
Was thinking that sand concrete would be better, since the sand would most
likely be more even in the weight distribution. I think it is called mortar
at Home Depot.
The frame of the wheel is very heavy angle and channel iron, and 4 inch
steel pipe, looks kinda like a pre-lockerbie design
Thank You,
Bud
Cindy Strnad on fri 26 oct 01
Dear Bud,
Congrats on your new wheel. I read in an old
pottery book about a hollow flywheel, made of wood
and filled with sand. You could vary the amount of
sand according to current needs (there was a
"drain"), or empty the sand out if you wished to
move the wheel somewhere. Just another angle to
consider.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com
n wheeler on fri 26 oct 01
Bud
This may help .......
>
>What I have a picture of in my mind, is a 3/4 inch plywood base, (cover in
>plastic - garbage bag / vapour barrier before you pour) ... with
>plastic covered bender board for the form edge, not sure what to use for the
>shaft collar.
If you make your form right on the wheel and cast it upright (plumb and
square) you can pour/cast right around the shaft giving you a onepiece
flywheel-shaft. Other than that find a new shaft which will fit your
bearings; have a welding shop fix a 1/4 inch disc to the shaft which has
been drilled to allow bolting to plywood base for form / wrap shaft in
anything which will form barrier to sand mix; and pour - this way you end
up with two pieces ....shaft and flywheel
>
>Was thinking that sand concrete would be better, since the sand would most
>likely be more even in the weight distribution. I think it is called mortar
>at Home Depot.
..........you want a portland and sand mix not mortar
Once you have the new flywheel cast to shaft and mounted in frame turn
frame on side and balance the wheel ..... the heavy side of the wheel will
fall to bottom ...... .add weight around perimeter of plywood base until
the wheel is in balance ....... same as balancing auto wheel. In fact a
tire shop may 'donate' the lead for this if you are lucky
Norm
Klyf Brown on sat 27 oct 01
Bud
One of the easiest flywheels I ever made was from an old piece of
farm equipment. I am sure you have seen the type. Iron wheel,
rounded edge three to four inches across. Iron spoked wheels and a
solid axel that is attached. Depending on where you live these
impliments are either a bunch of junk out back, or valuable antiques
decorating city folks front lawn.
Put a plywood or other base under it to pour against and cast it in
concrete. Sackcrete (brand name) can be purchaced in 50 pound
bags that contain cement, sand and aggregate. One bag is
about 1/2 cubic foot of concrete. Follow the directions on the bag for
mixing. Avoid the temptation to add more water to make it more
workable, it will cause problems. Once in place, pound the rim with a
hammer to consolidate the concrete and avoid honeycombing and off
ballance weight loading. A light broom finish will give you traction.
Allow it to cure for at least a few days before doing anything with it. It
is best to cure it with a damp burlap sack on it, or something to hold
moisture on the surface. Don't let it go through wet/dry cycles. The
moist burlap will also help prevent dry shrink cracking.
Klyf Brown in New Mexico
10/26/01 9:01:19 AM, GlassyClass
wrote:
>Good Morning Everyone,
>
>Yesterday, my step father "Paul" and I went and looked at a used
kick wheel
>for a $100.00, he said he would buy it if he felt it was a good
bargain. So
>I am the proud owner of a kick wheel now, I have got it greased,
and cleaned
>up, and threw my first little brown jug on it last night :-).
>
>The flywheel on it is a cast concrete, very home made looking, and a
little
>out of round, and is thicker and thinner in places and heavier on one
side,
>only it works, and runs pretty smooth, only I was thinking about
making a
>new one for it.
>
>Does anyone have any pointers about how I might go about this ?
>
>What I have a picture of in my mind, is a 3/4 inch plywood base,
with
>plastic covered bender board for the form edge, not sure what to
use for the
>shaft collar.
>
>Was thinking that sand concrete would be better, since the sand
would most
>likely be more even in the weight distribution. I think it is called
mortar
>at Home Depot.
>
>The frame of the wheel is very heavy angle and channel iron, and 4
inch
>steel pipe, looks kinda like a pre-lockerbie design
>
>Thank You,
>Bud
>
>___________________________________________________
___________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Eric Suchman on sat 27 oct 01
Pagan by Nature
Bud, I hope that this may be of assistance. I down loaded it awhile back.
It shows some pretty good ideas.
Best, Eric
>From: GlassyClass
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: glassyclass@WORLDNET.ATT.NET
>Subject: Making a FlyWheel, Questions/Concerns/Pointers.
>Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 08:01:19 -0700
>
>Good Morning Everyone,
>
>Yesterday, my step father "Paul" and I went and looked at a used kick wheel
>for a $100.00, he said he would buy it if he felt it was a good bargain. So
>I am the proud owner of a kick wheel now, I have got it greased, and
>cleaned
>up, and threw my first little brown jug on it last night :-).
>
>The flywheel on it is a cast concrete, very home made looking, and a little
>out of round, and is thicker and thinner in places and heavier on one side,
>only it works, and runs pretty smooth, only I was thinking about making a
>new one for it.
>
>Does anyone have any pointers about how I might go about this ?
>
>What I have a picture of in my mind, is a 3/4 inch plywood base, with
>plastic covered bender board for the form edge, not sure what to use for
>the
>shaft collar.
>
>Was thinking that sand concrete would be better, since the sand would most
>likely be more even in the weight distribution. I think it is called mortar
>at Home Depot.
>
>The frame of the wheel is very heavy angle and channel iron, and 4 inch
>steel pipe, looks kinda like a pre-lockerbie design
>
>Thank You,
>Bud
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
Rikki Gill on sat 27 oct 01
The one sand filled fly wheel I have personally heard of didn't work too
well, because the sand tended to shift in mid kick, creating an uneven
rhythm. It would have to be totally packed and sealed for it to be even.
Rikki Gill
-----Original Message-----
From: Cindy Strnad
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Friday, October 26, 2001 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: Making a FlyWheel, Questions/Concerns/Pointers.
>Dear Bud,
>
>Congrats on your new wheel. I read in an old
>pottery book about a hollow flywheel, made of wood
>and filled with sand. You could vary the amount of
>sand according to current needs (there was a
>"drain"), or empty the sand out if you wished to
>move the wheel somewhere. Just another angle to
>consider.
>
>Cindy Strnad
>Earthen Vessels Pottery
>RR 1, Box 51
>Custer, SD 57730
>USA
>cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
>http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Tommy Humphries on sat 27 oct 01
You could, instead of using concrete to make the flywheel permanent, use
bricks as a filler for the flywheel. They would be heavy enough not to
shift, and sandwiched between 2 layers of plywood, provide a good kicking
surface.
Tommy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Klyf Brown"
To:
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 3:43 AM
Subject: Re: Making a FlyWheel, Questions/Concerns/Pointers.
> Bud
> One of the easiest flywheels I ever made was from an old piece of
> farm equipment. I am sure you have seen the type. Iron wheel,
> rounded edge three to four inches across. Iron spoked wheels and a
> solid axel that is attached. Depending on where you live these
> impliments are either a bunch of junk out back, or valuable antiques
> decorating city folks front lawn.
> Put a plywood or other base under it to pour against and cast it in
> concrete. Sackcrete (brand name) can be purchaced in 50 pound
> bags that contain cement, sand and aggregate. One bag is
> about 1/2 cubic foot of concrete. Follow the directions on the bag for
> mixing. Avoid the temptation to add more water to make it more
> workable, it will cause problems. Once in place, pound the rim with a
> hammer to consolidate the concrete and avoid honeycombing and off
> ballance weight loading. A light broom finish will give you traction.
> Allow it to cure for at least a few days before doing anything with it. It
> is best to cure it with a damp burlap sack on it, or something to hold
> moisture on the surface. Don't let it go through wet/dry cycles. The
> moist burlap will also help prevent dry shrink cracking.
> Klyf Brown in New Mexico
>
> 10/26/01 9:01:19 AM, GlassyClass
> wrote:
>
> >Good Morning Everyone,
> >
> >Yesterday, my step father "Paul" and I went and looked at a used
> kick wheel
> >for a $100.00, he said he would buy it if he felt it was a good
> bargain. So
> >I am the proud owner of a kick wheel now, I have got it greased,
> and cleaned
> >up, and threw my first little brown jug on it last night :-).
> >
> >The flywheel on it is a cast concrete, very home made looking, and a
> little
> >out of round, and is thicker and thinner in places and heavier on one
> side,
> >only it works, and runs pretty smooth, only I was thinking about
> making a
> >new one for it.
> >
> >Does anyone have any pointers about how I might go about this ?
> >
> >What I have a picture of in my mind, is a 3/4 inch plywood base,
> with
> >plastic covered bender board for the form edge, not sure what to
> use for the
> >shaft collar.
> >
> >Was thinking that sand concrete would be better, since the sand
> would most
> >likely be more even in the weight distribution. I think it is called
> mortar
> >at Home Depot.
> >
> >The frame of the wheel is very heavy angle and channel iron, and 4
> inch
> >steel pipe, looks kinda like a pre-lockerbie design
> >
> >Thank You,
> >Bud
> >
> >___________________________________________________
> ___________________________
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Artgeek on sun 28 oct 01
Tommy and all,
Yes, bricks are a good economical way to make a flywheel. When I made mine,
many years ago, I believe I either purchased bricks with holes in them or
drilled holes through them to fasten a bolt through both pieces of plywood
and the brick. Worked real well, and never shifted.
by the way, this was the original Robert Brent kick wheel plans that I
purchased from him for $15.00 (included the wheel head, shaft, and
bearings!). He was working out of his garage then. Amazing where he has
gone since then!
Christine
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tommy Humphries"
To:
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: Making a FlyWheel, Questions/Concerns/Pointers.
> You could, instead of using concrete to make the flywheel permanent, use
> bricks as a filler for the flywheel. They would be heavy enough not to
> shift, and sandwiched between 2 layers of plywood, provide a good kicking
> surface.
>
> Tommy
>
>
Steve Mills on sun 28 oct 01
My work partner Mike Bailey had what we know as a momentum wheel (called
a kick wheel on the other side of the pond) with a sand loaded flywheel;
the inside was divided into segments to stop the sand shifting. The
simplest flywheel I've ever seen had house bricks bolted to the
underside of a large (4 ft diameter) wooden disc, I think there were
about 10 of them. That one was almost unstoppable!
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Tommy Humphries writes
>You could, instead of using concrete to make the flywheel permanent, use
>bricks as a filler for the flywheel. They would be heavy enough not to
>shift, and sandwiched between 2 layers of plywood, provide a good kicking
>surface.
>
>Tommy
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Klyf Brown"
>To:
>Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 3:43 AM
>Subject: Re: Making a FlyWheel, Questions/Concerns/Pointers.
>
>
>> Bud
>> One of the easiest flywheels I ever made was from an old piece of
>> farm equipment. I am sure you have seen the type. Iron wheel,
>> rounded edge three to four inches across. Iron spoked wheels and a
>> solid axel that is attached. Depending on where you live these
>> impliments are either a bunch of junk out back, or valuable antiques
>> decorating city folks front lawn.
>> Put a plywood or other base under it to pour against and cast it in
>> concrete. Sackcrete (brand name) can be purchaced in 50 pound
>> bags that contain cement, sand and aggregate. One bag is
>> about 1/2 cubic foot of concrete. Follow the directions on the bag for
>> mixing. Avoid the temptation to add more water to make it more
>> workable, it will cause problems. Once in place, pound the rim with a
>> hammer to consolidate the concrete and avoid honeycombing and off
>> ballance weight loading. A light broom finish will give you traction.
>> Allow it to cure for at least a few days before doing anything with it.=
> It
>> is best to cure it with a damp burlap sack on it, or something to hold
>> moisture on the surface. Don't let it go through wet/dry cycles. The
>> moist burlap will also help prevent dry shrink cracking.
>> Klyf Brown in New Mexico
>>
>> 10/26/01 9:01:19 AM, GlassyClass
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Good Morning Everyone,
>> >
>> >Yesterday, my step father "Paul" and I went and looked at a used
>> kick wheel
>> >for a $100.00, he said he would buy it if he felt it was a good
>> bargain. So
>> >I am the proud owner of a kick wheel now, I have got it greased,
>> and cleaned
>> >up, and threw my first little brown jug on it last night :-).
>> >
>> >The flywheel on it is a cast concrete, very home made looking, and a
>> little
>> >out of round, and is thicker and thinner in places and heavier on one
>> side,
>> >only it works, and runs pretty smooth, only I was thinking about
>> making a
>> >new one for it.
>> >
>> >Does anyone have any pointers about how I might go about this ?
>> >
>> >What I have a picture of in my mind, is a 3/4 inch plywood base,
>> with
>> >plastic covered bender board for the form edge, not sure what to
>> use for the
>> >shaft collar.
>> >
>> >Was thinking that sand concrete would be better, since the sand
>> would most
>> >likely be more even in the weight distribution. I think it is called
>> mortar
>> >at Home Depot.
>> >
>> >The frame of the wheel is very heavy angle and channel iron, and 4
>> inch
>> >steel pipe, looks kinda like a pre-lockerbie design
>> >
>> >Thank You,
>> >Bud
>> >
>> >___________________________________________________
>> ___________________________
>> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>> >
>> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>> >
>> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>_________________________________________________________________________=
>___
>__
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
>>
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
chris clarke on mon 29 oct 01
The
> simplest flywheel I've ever seen had house bricks bolted to the
> underside of a large (4 ft diameter) wooden disc, I think there were
> about 10 of them. That one was almost unstoppable!>>
I have this one. Two wooden disks, about a dozen or so bricks cemented and
bolted together. I can kick it, get down and go water my bamboo for a few
minutes and it's still going strong when I get back. Be careful though, had
it grab my foot under the rail and twist my knee out. Limped for days, kind
of John Wayne I thought. chris
temecula, california
chris@ccpots.com
www.ccpots.com
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