Dinah Collopy on fri 26 oct 01
Years ago I was in a workshop that Daviid Shaner gave. Someone asked him a
question similar to yours.
His reply was something to the effect that to make it look right, you had to
be in the right phase of the moon, hold your tongue just right, call on the
correct kiln gods, etc.
He was obviously kidding but what he was saying is that this is a tough glaze
to work with.
Dinah
david mcbeth on fri 26 oct 01
admitting upfront that I have limited recent experience with this
particular glaze; are there unique firing schedules, reduction issues that
help bring out the color? i got a beautiful khaki grey. the glaze was on
variously thick (triple dipped) and thin (single dipped) and brushed. How
would heavier reduction affect Shaner's red?
thanks for yor thoughts
Dave
Shaner Red C10
Custer Spar 52
EPK 7
Whiting 21
Talc 4
Calcined Kaolin 16
RIO 4
Bone Ash 4
fired just over 7 hours, top of the kiln C10 down flat, bottom of the kiln
C10 bending over. By the way this is only the fifth firing in the
departments new Olymic downdraft 14cf
David McBeth, MFA
Associate Professor of Art
330 B Gooch Hall
Department of Art, Dance and Theatre
University of Tennessee at Martin
Martin, Tennessee 38238
901-587-7416
Dannon Rhudy on fri 26 oct 01
David, the cooling schedule most affects Shaner's (and other)
iron reds. Shaner's needs a long slow cool, or firing down,
for the red color to re-surface, as it were. The iron goes into
reduction (turns variously shiny brown to various greyish
shades). Needs time to recrystalize on the surface of the
glaze. Specificially, it needs to have some time in oxidation
around 1800 or so. I relight my kiln at about 1750, hold it
there for a couple hours, because it cools too quickly for good
iron reds. You can also refire iron red pieces in the next
bisque, if you're firing to 04 or so. But I find they look best
and richest slow cooled in the first place. My iron reds used
to look uniformly like chocolate syrup, but Hank Murrow
set me straight. The best iron reds I've seen are the ones
Doug Grey gets from that giant, slow cooling kiln at Francis
Marion.
How much bone ash did you add to the Shaner's? I believe
the original recipe calls for 4%, but you can take it up to
10% and it's just remarkable. Thinner/redder - thicker/more yellow.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
At 10:25 AM 10/26/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>admitting upfront that I have limited recent experience with this
>particular glaze; are there unique firing schedules, reduction issues that
>help bring out the color? i got a beautiful khaki grey. the glaze was on
>variously thick (triple dipped) and thin (single dipped) and brushed. How
>would heavier reduction affect Shaner's red?
>
>thanks for yor thoughts
>
>Dave
>
>Shaner Red C10
>Custer Spar 52
>EPK 7
>Whiting 21
>Talc 4
>Calcined Kaolin 16
>RIO 4
>Bone Ash 4
>
>
>
>fired just over 7 hours, top of the kiln C10 down flat, bottom of the kiln
>C10 bending over. By the way this is only the fifth firing in the
>departments new Olymic downdraft 14cf
>
>
>David McBeth, MFA
>Associate Professor of Art
>330 B Gooch Hall
>Department of Art, Dance and Theatre
>University of Tennessee at Martin
>Martin, Tennessee 38238
>
>901-587-7416
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Hank Murrow on fri 26 oct 01
David mcBeth wrote;
>admitting upfront that I have limited recent experience with this
>particular glaze; are there unique firing schedules, reduction issues that
>help bring out the color? i got a beautiful khaki grey. the glaze was on
>variously thick (triple dipped) and thin (single dipped) and brushed. How
>would heavier reduction affect Shaner's red?
>fired just over 7 hours, top of the kiln C10 down flat, bottom of the kiln
>C10 bending over. By the way this is only the fifth firing in the
>departments new Olymic downdraft 14cf
David;
Shaner's Red is a glaze that needs to re0oxidize after reduction.
You could taper off the reduction around C/5 and clean up the atmosphere
well before C/10, OR you could fire it to C/10 and let cool normally down
to around 1900F where you could put the kiln in an oxidizing fire with just
enough gas to hold that temperature for four hours or so.
Your kiln is a smallish one, and probably cools very fast. Shaners
needs time to re-oxidize for the fullest development of the color....same
as shinos.
Good Luck, and report back, Hank
Stephani Stephenson on fri 26 oct 01
David McBeth wrote" .... are there unique firing schedules, reduction
issues that
help bring out the color? i got a beautiful khaki grey. the glaze was
on
variously thick (triple dipped) and thin (single dipped) and brushed.
How
would heavier reduction affect Shaner's red?
David , it has been awhile since I worked at stoneware temps, but I
suggest firing Shaner's red in oxidation rather than reduction.
The red is an iron red and red tones are brought out in an oxidizing
atmosphere. Especially important too is a slow cooling cycle ( you may
also experiment with firing down as well). Perhaps others can give you
more exact advise , especially on whether to go for a body reduction at
lower temp or not, I have forgotten the exact firing schedule. But
firing for Shaner's red, in my personal experience, was different than
firing for other predominantly reduction glazes I used at cone 10.
Also , at least with the version I use to use, the reds show up best
when the glaze is slightly thin.. the thicker the glaze, the more it
will tend to go green.
make sure your slurry isn't too thick to begin with.
Stephani Stephenson
Carlsbad CA
steph@alchemiestudio.com
linda blossom on fri 26 oct 01
David,
You didn 't mention a reduction reading so does that mean you fired in
oxidation? I have fired this glaze and probably went to 4 or 5 on the
oxyprobe and got a soft iron red color. I think I fired it to cone 7 and it
was a satin matt. I don't pay a lot of attention to what cone a formula
calls for since I fire flat.
Linda Blossom
760-510-6488
240 S. Bent
San Marcos, CA 92069
lindablossom@att.net
www.nottinghamarts.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "david mcbeth"
To:
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 10:25 AM
Subject: Shaner Red
> admitting upfront that I have limited recent experience with this
> particular glaze; are there unique firing schedules, reduction issues that
> help bring out the color? i got a beautiful khaki grey. the glaze was on
> variously thick (triple dipped) and thin (single dipped) and brushed. How
> would heavier reduction affect Shaner's red?
>
> thanks for yor thoughts
>
> Dave
>
> Shaner Red C10
> Custer Spar 52
> EPK 7
> Whiting 21
> Talc 4
> Calcined Kaolin 16
> RIO 4
> Bone Ash 4
>
>
>
> fired just over 7 hours, top of the kiln C10 down flat, bottom of the kiln
> C10 bending over. By the way this is only the fifth firing in the
> departments new Olymic downdraft 14cf
>
>
> David McBeth, MFA
> Associate Professor of Art
> 330 B Gooch Hall
> Department of Art, Dance and Theatre
> University of Tennessee at Martin
> Martin, Tennessee 38238
>
> 901-587-7416
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Edouard Bastarache on fri 26 oct 01
Hello,
I use Cantrell's version of Shaner Red.
If used thin on a dark burning body it is red,
and green when thick.
Here is the way I fire:
Oxidation till clay reduction at c/08, then light reduction
increasing with time until the final/total reduction at c/9=BD,
followed by a period of reoxidation. Both periods,
final reduction and reoxidation last 20 minutes.
The kiln cools very slowly, I fire on saturdays and
unload on thuesday mornings.
Later,
Edouard Bastarache
Irreductible Quebecois
Indomitable Quebeker
Sorel-Tracy
Quebec
edouardb@sorel-tracy.qc.ca
http://sorel-tracy.qc.ca/~edouardb/
http://www.absolutearts.com/portfolios/e/edouardb/
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephani Stephenson
To:
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 4:49 PM
Subject: Re: Shaner red
> David McBeth wrote" .... are there unique firing schedules, reduction
> issues that
> help bring out the color? i got a beautiful khaki grey. the glaze was
> on
> variously thick (triple dipped) and thin (single dipped) and brushed.
> How
> would heavier reduction affect Shaner's red?
>
> David , it has been awhile since I worked at stoneware temps, but I
> suggest firing Shaner's red in oxidation rather than reduction.
> The red is an iron red and red tones are brought out in an oxidizing
> atmosphere. Especially important too is a slow cooling cycle ( you may
> also experiment with firing down as well). Perhaps others can give you
> more exact advise , especially on whether to go for a body reduction at
> lower temp or not, I have forgotten the exact firing schedule. But
> firing for Shaner's red, in my personal experience, was different than
> firing for other predominantly reduction glazes I used at cone 10.
>
> Also , at least with the version I use to use, the reds show up best
> when the glaze is slightly thin.. the thicker the glaze, the more it
> will tend to go green.
> make sure your slurry isn't too thick to begin with.
>
> Stephani Stephenson
> Carlsbad CA
> steph@alchemiestudio.com
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________=
___
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Earl Brunner on sun 28 oct 01
helps to have an iron bearing claybody. It will go kaki when on thick.
david mcbeth wrote:
> admitting upfront that I have limited recent experience with this
> particular glaze; are there unique firing schedules, reduction issues that
> help bring out the color? i got a beautiful khaki grey. the glaze was on
> variously thick (triple dipped) and thin (single dipped) and brushed. How
> would heavier reduction affect Shaner's red?
>
> thanks for yor thoughts
>
> Dave
>
> Shaner Red C10
> Custer Spar 52
> EPK 7
> Whiting 21
> Talc 4
> Calcined Kaolin 16
> RIO 4
> Bone Ash 4
>
>
>
> fired just over 7 hours, top of the kiln C10 down flat, bottom of the kiln
> C10 bending over. By the way this is only the fifth firing in the
> departments new Olymic downdraft 14cf
>
>
> David McBeth, MFA
> Associate Professor of Art
> 330 B Gooch Hall
> Department of Art, Dance and Theatre
> University of Tennessee at Martin
> Martin, Tennessee 38238
>
> 901-587-7416
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec/
bruec@anv.net
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