Jean Cochran on tue 6 nov 01
Dear Lajos,
My experience with any Bailey equipment is that you buy the company when you buy a piece of their equipment. If you have not already done so, you might consider calling their toll free number and asking their advice. I will say that Jim
Bailey has spent HOURS on the phone with me and it seems to me that this company backs up their products.
Good luck,
Jean Wadsworth Cochran
Fox Hollow Pottery
New Haven, Kentucky
Lajos Kamocsay wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I've got a Bailey's S200 wheel, and ordered some Bailey's wooden bats with it. When I've tried throw something on the bat, it really scrached up my pinky. Also when I was pulling up the cylinder, the whole clay just popped off the bat.
> Any suggestions on using these bats?
>
> By the way, the wheel is really nice. It's sooooo strong and quiet, and the pedal's awesome, too!
>
> Thanks,
> Lajos
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
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Lajos Kamocsay on tue 6 nov 01
Hello,
I've got a Bailey's S200 wheel, and ordered some Bailey's wooden bats =
with it. When I've tried throw something on the bat, it really scrached =
up my pinky. Also when I was pulling up the cylinder, the whole clay =
just popped off the bat.
Any suggestions on using these bats?
By the way, the wheel is really nice. It's sooooo strong and quiet, and =
the pedal's awesome, too!
Thanks,
Lajos
Tony Ferguson on tue 6 nov 01
Sand the bat and/or let your hand float above the wheel head riding upon the
slip, gently Many people push into the wheel head when they are centering
and throwing. This is a waste of energy and good skin--the energy of force
should be upon the clay. Try using a sponge as well--this will act as a
buffer between your hand and the wheel head.
Fergy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lajos Kamocsay"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 4:13 PM
Subject: wooden bats...
Hello,
I've got a Bailey's S200 wheel, and ordered some Bailey's wooden bats with
it. When I've tried throw something on the bat, it really scrached up my
pinky. Also when I was pulling up the cylinder, the whole clay just popped
off the bat.
Any suggestions on using these bats?
By the way, the wheel is really nice. It's sooooo strong and quiet, and the
pedal's awesome, too!
Thanks,
Lajos
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Leslie St. Clair on wed 7 nov 01
Hello,
I had the same experience with these bats. A light
sanding will make them a little less rough. If you
dampen the bat before you put your clay down it will
adhere better. I also pat down the clay and run my
finger along the bottom to help it stick.
Leslie St. Clair in Ft. Mitchell, KY
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Martin Howard on thu 8 nov 01
So often the change to using bats on the wheel instead of throwing direct on
the wheel head means that we have raised the working level of the clay. The
same thing occurs when using a contraption for holding the clay ware, like
the Giffen Grip or the Universal Jaws. This has two results:
1 The wet or leatherhard turned clay flies out beyond the extent of the
splash pan, which makes a mess on the floor.
2 Students get sore wrists and sides of left hands.
Yes, we can smooth the bats, but a more important solution IMHO is to raise
the level of the edge of the splash pan. Most wheels have a way of doing
this.
That is usually a better solution than trying to reduce the length of the
spindle.
Clay then stays within the splash pan and the thrower uses the edge of the
splash pan to keep the wrist and side of hand above the surface of the bat.
Martin Howard
Webbs Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
01371 850 423
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
This web-site is being updated NOW!
Steve Mills on fri 9 nov 01
for some years here at BPS we sold wheel bats made out of birch plywood;
this being a fine grained wood, and not so liable to splintering.
However it became apparent that our supply source was not renewable, so
we changed to making them out of a particle board (exterior grade) known
over here as MDF. This has three advantages and one disadvantage: the
advantages are that the material used is a waste product, is smooth
surfaced, and doesn't warp. The disadvantage is that you have to be very
careful of how you dispose of the waste from cutting. Burning is not an
option as the fumes are toxic, So they go as landfill.
I really enjoying throwing on them, although you must be careful not to
pre wet them else the clay will fly off.
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Martin Howard writes
>So often the change to using bats on the wheel instead of throwing direct=
> on
>the wheel head means that we have raised the working level of the clay. T=
>he
>same thing occurs when using a contraption for holding the clay ware, lik=
>e
>the Giffen Grip or the Universal Jaws. This has two results:
>1 The wet or leatherhard turned clay flies out beyond the extent of th=
>e
>splash pan, which makes a mess on the floor.
>2 Students get sore wrists and sides of left hands.
>
>Yes, we can smooth the bats, but a more important solution IMHO is to rai=
>se
>the level of the edge of the splash pan. Most wheels have a way of doing
>this.
>That is usually a better solution than trying to reduce the length of the
>spindle.
>Clay then stays within the splash pan and the thrower uses the edge of th=
>e
>splash pan to keep the wrist and side of hand above the surface of the ba=
>t.
>
>Martin Howard
>Webbs Cottage Pottery
>Woolpits Road, Great Saling
>BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
>01371 850 423
>martin@webbscottage.co.uk
>http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
>This web-site is being updated NOW!
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Richard Jeffery on fri 9 nov 01
for what it's worth - in UK, exterior grade MDF is green, rather than brown.
There is also a fire retardant version which is orange. Just in case you
start looking though waste skips for bits...
actually, the water resistant stuff will warp (I don't know about round
bats - I have rectangular bats for hand building, that slide into a rack on
the wall), but will flatten out quite well if then used upside down for a
while. It's not water PROOF, either - it will survive quite well outside
untreated, but not for ever.
Richard
Bournemouth UK
www.TheEleventhHour.co.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Steve Mills
Sent: 09 November 2001 10:29
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: wooden bats...
for some years here at BPS we sold wheel bats made out of birch plywood;
this being a fine grained wood, and not so liable to splintering.
However it became apparent that our supply source was not renewable, so
we changed to making them out of a particle board (exterior grade) known
over here as MDF. This has three advantages and one disadvantage: the
advantages are that the material used is a waste product, is smooth
surfaced, and doesn't warp. The disadvantage is that you have to be very
careful of how you dispose of the waste from cutting. Burning is not an
option as the fumes are toxic, So they go as landfill.
I really enjoying throwing on them, although you must be careful not to
pre wet them else the clay will fly off.
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Martin Howard writes
>So often the change to using bats on the wheel instead of throwing direct=
> on
>the wheel head means that we have raised the working level of the clay. T=
>he
>same thing occurs when using a contraption for holding the clay ware, lik=
>e
>the Giffen Grip or the Universal Jaws. This has two results:
>1 The wet or leatherhard turned clay flies out beyond the extent of th=
>e
>splash pan, which makes a mess on the floor.
>2 Students get sore wrists and sides of left hands.
>
>Yes, we can smooth the bats, but a more important solution IMHO is to rai=
>se
>the level of the edge of the splash pan. Most wheels have a way of doing
>this.
>That is usually a better solution than trying to reduce the length of the
>spindle.
>Clay then stays within the splash pan and the thrower uses the edge of th=
>e
>splash pan to keep the wrist and side of hand above the surface of the ba=
>t.
>
>Martin Howard
>Webbs Cottage Pottery
>Woolpits Road, Great Saling
>BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
>01371 850 423
>martin@webbscottage.co.uk
>http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
>This web-site is being updated NOW!
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
CMG on fri 9 nov 01
I use particle board bats too. Make them myself, coat with varathane so they
won't swell and fall apart. I've used the same ones for year, with wheelhead
pins and they still are snug. Does take some time to make them but I just
set aside a day and get a lot done. Easy, cheap and long lasting. There's
that word cheap again.
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