Barbara Reeley on sat 10 nov 01
Just got a Peter Pugger this week, anyone have any tips on running her?
Soon...well, whenever,
Barbara
MaryBeth Bishop on sat 10 nov 01
Dear Bev,
I got my Peter Pugger, the new small studio model, last summer. Ordered it
at NCECA. They were back ordered for awhile and I had to wait. It has
really been wonderful. I have a small studio space I rent downtown and the
ability to just throw scrap in and mix and pug is terrific. No bags and
buckets of scrap, etc. Of course it is pricey and I had cold feet about a
hundred times over the purchase but I am over the sticker shock by now. I
feel very self indulgent every time I use it. Some people like diamonds,
some people like pugmills.
Peace,
Mary Beth Bishop
Alan D. Scott on sun 11 nov 01
> I often throw in the bottom of my slop bucket
Wow... I'm still learning how to throw dry on a regular wheel. ;-)
Alan
tomsawyer on sun 11 nov 01
Mary,
You sound a little like my wife when you wrote "Some people like diamonds,
some people like pugmills." My wife is a real techi and it took me about 19
years to buy her a diamond; each time we would look, she would say Tom I'd
rather have a new computer, camera, vacation, car etc. I think I bought her
about 6-8 computers over the years in place of a diamond. It became a family
joke. She always says diamonds look nice but you can't use them. Last year
for some reason she let me buy her a diamond for X-mas and she really enjoys
it - loves it; of course she has a computer only about a year old.
Tom Sawyer
tsawyer@cfl.rr.com
Barbara Reeley on sun 11 nov 01
Thank you Bonnie(mou10man) for your response. Am excited about setting her
up, I won't be changing claybodies very often, just recycling and pugging.
The question that has been rattling around in my mind is : If I put in some
clay trimmings, slop, some leatherhard pieces and begin mixing will it take
20 minutes or 2 hours to get it ready for pugging? Just me wanting to figure
it out when I realize I have to set it up and experiment. Thanks again.
Barbara
Life is
Donald Schnell on sun 11 nov 01
We've had ours for 8 or 9 years, I think, and we love it.
We got one of the first ones, a "prototype" as I understand it, but our
experience is that if you maintain it better than we do you won't have any
problems (we don't manage it very well unfortunately and we STILL hardly
ever have a problem).
Just change the oil as specs require.
But most important, I don't know if newer models have a way of preventing
this ( it may not be even possible) is to NEVER OVERFILL the clay bin. Ours
is designed to hold 100 lbs and we use about a 50 lb bag of two kinds of
clay and then 3-5 large scoops of some other ingredients. Its easy for us to
put in just a little two much of either bag and with the scoops we overfill
so sometimes we destroy the front bearing by forcing clay along the shaft
into the bearing when mixing.
I'm only saying this to stress the importance of not overfilling to prevent
this & if you do, to open the bin and montitor the gap betwn the wall of the
bin & the bearing. At the first sign of clay, flush it out and re-grease and
you cna probably intercept it before it reaches the bearing. Even a little
bit can be disatrous over time.
That said, we run ours in a caustic environement (sea level, near ocean,
protected by wooden deck that leaks in heavy rain). We run it 2-5 hours a
day 3-6 days a week ALL YEAR, so I consider replacing the bearing every
two-three years (which is a royal b*$#& if you haven't done it before)
actually pretty darn good for a piece of machinary in the islands.
I guess we learned smthing because we now have to change the bearing about
every 2 yrs and get to it before the old one seizes to the shaft requiring
breaking it off. Needless to say, we learn the hard way.
We could probably prevent it altogether if we mixed all the clay personally,
but then we would absolutely no time for naything else...
Let us know how it goes to you.
We are looking forward to moving to a larger space (but retaining our old
cramped one) and look forward to getting a new Peter Pugger!!
Artistic Villas
by Donald Schnell
800-253-7107
Donald Schnell Studio, Inc.
Bougainvillea Leasing Ltd.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
[mailto:owner-clayart@lsv.ceramics.org]On Behalf Of Barbara Reeley
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 11:13 PM
To: CLAYART@lsv.ceramics.org
Subject: Peter Pugger
Just got a Peter Pugger this week, anyone have any tips on running her?
Soon...well, whenever,
Barbara
____________________________________________________________________________
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tomsawyer on sun 11 nov 01
Barbara,
I often throw in the bottom of my slop bucket and add dry scraps till I get
the right consistency. I like to keep a mixed load inside of the pugger. I
store the extruded logs on top; I lay a plastic garbage sack on top and
stack the logs on top of it. I use an old towel to lay over the top and
cover with 3-4 garbage sacks. These logs keep for several days ready for
use. Periodically, I run the pugger and take care to de-air. Some time ago
someone told me that de-airing the clay is equivalent to several days of
aging and I am convinced this helps plasticity. By keeping the pugger full
and de-airing the clay is much better than if you mix and de-air and use
right away. When I am in a hurry or have the need for larger amounts of
clay, I use purchased bagged clay. Personally, I like to run it through the
pugger rather than using it directly from the bag. What I sure you have
already found is that purchased clay will have varying consistencies.
Actually if the purchased clay is a bit stiff its better because you can
just add water; on the other hand if it is wet and you use dry clay and use
right away, it is not as plastic or at least this is the world as I see it.
It took me about a year before I figured out to use the top of the pugger
for storage; I've been thinking about getting a small piece of lucite to fix
to the wood top which would probably alieviate the need for the bottom
garbage sack. If your really industrious, you might even build a little
storage box that would easily hold a load of clay. I've been thinking of
writing the company to suggest such.
Tom Sawyer
tsawyer@cfl.rr.com
tomsawyer on sun 11 nov 01
Donald,
You wrote:
Just change the oil as specs require.
But most important, I don't know if newer models have a way of preventing
this ( it may not be even possible) is to NEVER OVERFILL the clay bin.
Maybe the newer models have changed. I inquired about oil changing as I was
unable to find anyway to add oil. I was told not to worry - don't know if
they now have a closed system or not. Second my Peter Pugger works best when
chock full. I fill it to the point where many times I have to remove clay to
close the door. You may be right but my experience is different. I've had my
pugger now for 4-5 years never even the slightest problem - LOVE IT!!!!!!
Tom Sawyer
tsawyer@cfl.rr.com
Tjo62@AOL.COM on sun 11 nov 01
Barbara,
I got a new Peter Pugger this past spring. I couldn't wait to give it a try.
Boy was I disapointed! I ended up calling the company, as well as getting
some good advice from the list. I now love my pugger. First of all, you
can't only put 65 pounds in the barrel. The clay will just stick to the
paddles and roll around and around without actually mixing. You have to
stuff the barrel with about twice as much as the recommended amount--the
first time. Half of that will stay in the pugger and then you stuff about 60
or 70 more pounds in it and it will pug out about what put in. I like to
have wet, mushy clay and stiff and or dry trims to give a perfect clay for
throwing. It will take you a while to get the hang of it, but when you do
you will be very happy. PS> I never clean the thing. I just keep it
covered with plastic. Good luck! Tonya in Louisville, KY
karen terpstra on mon 12 nov 01
Hi Barbara,
We have a Peter Pugger that gets run to death. We use it for mixing new
batches and recycling old. I don't let the students run it on "mix" for
more than 5 min. at a time. (Although, it does automatically shut off
if it overheats.)
We keep it stuffed with plastic when not in use so none of the clay that
has been left from the person before dries out. We also cover the tube
with plastic and then put a large plastic cup that fits tightly over the
tube with the plastic. It's important that the clay in the tube does
not dry out. If there's a cap that comes with it, it's been long gone
here.
When the students want to switch from stoneware to porcelain, they clean
it out with vinegar water. When they are ready to pug, they save the
stoneware that comes out of the tube and when all the porcelain has gone
through they pug or push the stoneware through the tube so the last
remaining porcelain comes out. That way it's also ready for the next
person.
I'm sure there are manufacturers instructions as well if it is a new
one.
Karen Terpstra
La Crosse, WI
From: Barbara Reeley
Just got a Peter Pugger this week, anyone have any tips on running her?
tomsawyer on mon 12 nov 01
As to covering the Peter Pugger with plastic, I have never done that. I
still have my rubber cap that I place over the extrusion hole. With the lid
fastened tightly and the cap on I have never had a drying problem. I've been
gone as long as 2 weeks without a problem. I don't know how long before the
clay in the barrel would dry but in my experience there is no need to get
carried away if the pugger enjoys even moderate and intermittent use.
Tom Sawyer
tsawyer@cfl.rr.com
Olivia T Cavy on mon 12 nov 01
Hi Barbara,
The Peter Pugger doesn't work very well unless the barrel is full. So
even if you have just pugged out everything you could (and there is that
perennial liner clay coating the screw, and coating the barrel from the
tip to the container
where you put the clay) you STILL need a reasonably full container to
pug out any more or you need to push your clay to the front of the mixing
area near the barrel.
There are apparently several different models of Peter Puggers, and not
all of them have the vacuum pump that removes the air from the clay. Mine
is a VPM-30 which has that vacuum pump and it took me a long time to
understand that when they say it is a batch processor, they mean that you
need a FULL batch of clay for it to mix well. Without enough clay in the
container, it really doesn't mix the clay. However, if the container is
not full, you can still de-air and pug by putting the clay towards the
pugging end of the container towards the barrel.
I usually put all my trimmings, not-too-soft slop, and leather hard
pieces in the Peter Pugger to store them until I have enough for a full
load. Sometimes I end up adding extra clay to fill it up, clay that would
otherwise be perfectly fine for throwing, etc. No big deal. It just gets
processed again.
My biggest problem is getting that recycle mix at the right consistency
so that it will end up as ready-to-use clay. When I'm using paper clay
and the clay is too soft, it is sticky and has a hard time being pugged
out.
I'd say you're looking at 20 minutes of mixing, and not 2 hours. There
are 2 different amperage ratings for the VPM-30. I ended up with the 20
amp machine (which required the services of an electrician).
My suggestion is to use it for the first time when you have a lot of time
to play. Murphy's law says it will always take a lot longer than you
think WHEN you need it NOW. The first time, be sure you have 100 lbs
of clay around. 50 of it will get eaten up to "line" the container,
screw, mixing paddles and extruding end.
I used to hate to use new clay for activities where I might have to
recycle it because I hated to wedge. I just didn't experiment and take as
many chances before I bought the Peter Pugger 2 years ago. (I'm a
hobbyist potter.) I've found the PP to be a liberating tool. I don't
hesitate to try anything, even if it may mean recycling MANY pounds of
clay. It's just not an issue any more. No wedging required.
BTW I don't usually put dry scraps in the PP container. I rehydrate them
first, because it really cuts down on the mixing time. The mixer part of
the PP turns slowly, and you need just the right amount of clay in the
mixer. (That was one of those paragraphs in the instruction book that I
re-read again and again as I used the PP, until I really understood it.)
My machine came with a rubber-type cap for the end of the barrel, and
when I put that on and close the cover, my clay stays soft indefinitely.
If I lost that cap, I'd definitely get another. I keep the cap on while
using the vacuum pump, and until the extruded clay starts to press
against it (so I don't lose the vacuum).
Yes, I consider that my VPM-30 Peter Pugger was expensive, but yes, I'd
buy it again! I hope you enjoy yours! (P.S. don't forget to check the
archives for previous discussions of the Peter Pugger. You'll find lots
of good tips, plus comments from people who don't own one who think it's
too small for their use. )
Bonnie
Bonnie D. Hellman, Pittsburgh, PA
PA work email: oliviatcavy@juno.com
PA home email: mou10man@sgi.net (that's the number 10 in the middle of
the letters)
CO email: mou10man@rmi.net (that's the number 10 in the middle of the
letters)
> From: Barbara Reeley
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 11:12:01 EST
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Peter Pugger
>
> Thank you Bonnie(mou10man) for your response. Am excited about setting
her
> up, I won't be changing claybodies very often, just recycling and
pugging.
> The question that has been rattling around in my mind is : If I put in
some
> clay trimmings, slop, some leatherhard pieces and begin mixing will it
take
> 20 minutes or 2 hours to get it ready for pugging? Just me wanting to
figure
> it out when I realize I have to set it up and experiment. Thanks
again.
>
> Barbara
> Life is
________________________________________________________________
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MaryBeth Bishop on mon 12 nov 01
Dear Barbara,
Well I just dumped in a bucket of dry clay I had been saving up for the big
day and some water and said, "honey, prove your worth". After a couple
minutes, I checked and added more water and some fresh clay and put her back
to work. I don't really know how long it took as I kept checking and mixing
but it was really quick relative to my "by hand" system. I have the smaller,
VPM 20 so the quantity is less. Anyway, the first pug was just great and we
have gotten along fine. The only time I had a little disfunction was when I
changed clays and used too soft a mix. Learned what the clay mixer people
mean by "spin". I just dried some clay overnight, dumped that in and mixed,
pugged, voila! Don't you just love it when something goes right! Do read
the instructions. They are brief and helpful. But mostly just have fun
knowing you don't have to have all those little piles of clay sitting around
getting ready to wedge. My studio got a whole 10 square feet bigger without
the scrap. Of course I am a little operation so 10 feet is a lot of space.
Cheers,
Mary Beth Bishop
Wanda Holmes on mon 12 nov 01
I find it curious that several writers have referred to their Peter Pugger
as female. Made me stop and take notice. w.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of MaryBeth Bishop
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 5:27 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Peter Pugger
Dear Barbara,
Well I just dumped in a bucket of dry clay I had been saving up for the big
day and some water and said, "honey, prove your worth". After a couple
minutes, I checked and added more water and some fresh clay and put her back
to work. I don't really know how long it took as I kept checking and mixing
but it was really quick relative to my "by hand" system. I have the
smaller,
VPM 20 so the quantity is less. Anyway, the first pug was just great and we
have gotten along fine. The only time I had a little disfunction was when I
changed clays and used too soft a mix. Learned what the clay mixer people
mean by "spin". I just dried some clay overnight, dumped that in and mixed,
pugged, voila! Don't you just love it when something goes right! Do read
the instructions. They are brief and helpful. But mostly just have fun
knowing you don't have to have all those little piles of clay sitting around
getting ready to wedge. My studio got a whole 10 square feet bigger without
the scrap. Of course I am a little operation so 10 feet is a lot of space.
Cheers,
Mary Beth Bishop
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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tomsawyer on tue 13 nov 01
Wanda,
You wrote "I find it curious that several writers have referred to their
Peter Pugger as female. Made me stop and take notice. w."
I can tell you very definitively my Peter Pugger is male. I can tell from
the shape of the extrusions!
Tom Sawyer
tsawyer@cfl.rr.com
L. P. Skeen on tue 13 nov 01
Mine has been renamed Petunia Pugger. I am still threatening to paint eyes
and ears on the thing, and add a curly tail.
----- Original Message -----
From: Wanda Holmes
Subject: Re: Peter Pugger
> I find it curious that several writers have referred to their Peter Pugger
> as female. Made me stop and take notice. w.
L. P. Skeen on tue 5 mar 02
Hi Ann,
What is the email address for the peter pugger people? (say that three times
fast if you can!) I still have questions about the spitting filter. Glad
they have good CS, I am a stickler for same, especially when I pay over $3k
for a tool.
L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ann Semple"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 8:39 PM
Subject: Peter Pugger
> I am about to tell a story in which I appears less than brilliant -
because of the response it elicited from Peter Pugger.
>
> I recently got a new Peter Pugger - mostly because my hands are quite
arthritic and wanted to save them the stress of wedging. When it arrived, I
immediately began pugging clay of course, then I thought it best to go over
the maintenance instructions to familiarize myself with what needed to be
done. Then I decided to actually DO them too. After all, I remember better
that way. So far so good. Amongst other things, the instructions say "to
check oil level, loosen set screw until oil just starts to flow". Well oil
didn't start to flow and I kept loosening the set screw until suddenly the
oil poured out. I had taken the flippin' screw all the way out . So I shove
it back quickly and begin to turn it. And turned and turned and kerplop -
one set screw inside oil case.
> I didn't realize (didn't think) that there is no stop on an set screw and
it never feels tight like a regular screw.
> So I e-mailed Peter Pugger, and got a reply the next day from Andrew
Warren, saying I had presented Peter Pugger with a first and he'd find out
what needed to be done.
> Next day, he e-mailed saying Peter Pugger was going to replace the gear
box because getting the set screw out of the gearbox would be almost
impossible, and it couldn't be left in as it would probably damage the gear
box.
> And then today, I got an e-mail saying Peter Pugger was sending someone to
my studio and he would bring and install the new gear box.
> I had to share that with Clayart, because it is such an outstanding
example of great customer service!!
> Ann
> annsemple@shaw.ca
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Working Potter on tue 5 mar 02
I wish I'D BOUGHT A peter Pugger!!!!!!!
Ann Semple on tue 5 mar 02
I am about to tell a story in which I appears less than brilliant - because of the response it elicited from Peter Pugger.
I recently got a new Peter Pugger - mostly because my hands are quite arthritic and wanted to save them the stress of wedging. When it arrived, I immediately began pugging clay of course, then I thought it best to go over the maintenance instructions to familiarize myself with what needed to be done. Then I decided to actually DO them too. After all, I remember better that way. So far so good. Amongst other things, the instructions say "to check oil level, loosen set screw until oil just starts to flow". Well oil didn't start to flow and I kept loosening the set screw until suddenly the oil poured out. I had taken the flippin' screw all the way out . So I shove it back quickly and begin to turn it. And turned and turned and kerplop - one set screw inside oil case.
I didn't realize (didn't think) that there is no stop on an set screw and it never feels tight like a regular screw.
So I e-mailed Peter Pugger, and got a reply the next day from Andrew Warren, saying I had presented Peter Pugger with a first and he'd find out what needed to be done.
Next day, he e-mailed saying Peter Pugger was going to replace the gear box because getting the set screw out of the gearbox would be almost impossible, and it couldn't be left in as it would probably damage the gear box.
And then today, I got an e-mail saying Peter Pugger was sending someone to my studio and he would bring and install the new gear box.
I had to share that with Clayart, because it is such an outstanding example of great customer service!!
Ann
annsemple@shaw.ca
Bruce Girrell on wed 6 mar 02
Ann Semple wrote:
> I had to share that with Clayart, because it is such an
> outstanding example of great customer service!!
About a year after we bought our Peter Pugger we got an package in the mail
from the company. It seems that the thick Plexiglas cover for the vacuum
chamber had been warping for some users. The company sent out replacement
aluminum covers, apparently to everyone who owned a deairing pugmill. No
Notice of Recall, no forms, no questions, just "here, we have improved the
design - put this on your machine - no charge".
Recently, I had to remove the drive motor to get the starter switch
repaired. One phone call to Peter Pugger and in a few hours they faxed
complete instructions for removal and reinstallation of the motor.
Bruce Girrell
in snowy northern Michigan who has finally started making a few pots again
after a long hiatus due to "day job" deadlines. Completely out of practice.
Sigh...
Barbara Reeley on wed 10 sep 03
My Peter Pugger recycles, de-airs like a dream. The only backup in my studio
is my not taking time to recycle!
Barbara
In glorious Upstate NY
Windy in Alaska on fri 22 apr 05
My Peter Pugger has become my dream machine. I can recycle, mix clay, =
and always get the moisture content I want for whatever I might be =
doing. My only regret is that I didn't buy the next bigger version.
Vince Pitelka on thu 3 nov 05
Gay Judson wrote:
"I have no response to Cliff's question, but have another of my own. What
does the Peter Pugger MIXER do that other puggers without the mixer can't
do. Why is the mixer aspect of the Peter Pugger important?"
Gay -
The Peter Pugger is a true mixer-pugmill. When the motor is rotating in one
direction, it just mixes. You add your dry materials and your water to mix
a clay body from scratch. Or, you put your rough recycle slurry in the
pugmill and add drymix claybody until it reaches an appropriate plastic
consistency. In either case, when the clay is the right consistency, you
reverse the direction of the machine, and it extrudes the clay through the
pugmill barrel. The largest non-deairing and deairing Peter Puggers are
comparable in output and cost to the Bluebird 625 non-deairing and 800
deairing pugmills.
We have a big Soldner mixer, a Bluebird 625, and a 4" Venco, so we don't
have any need for a Peter Pugger, but for any studio potter or small
institutional facility that wants a machine that will mix clay from scratch
or recycle clay very effectively and quickly without having to dry the
slurry to plastic consistency, and then pug the clay as well, Peter Pugger
has a corner on the market.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Cliff Leonard on thu 3 nov 05
Would like to have a discussion of the amount of time clay should be mixed
before it is "extruded". I know there will be a lot of variables this
would be a body used in a school setting where the clay is used "almost"
as soon as it's made.
Thanks,
Cliff Leonard
gjudson on thu 3 nov 05
I have no response to Cliff's question, but have another of my own. =
What
does the Peter Pugger MIXER do that other puggers without the mixer =
can't
do. Why is the mixer aspect of the Peter Pugger important?
Thanks for your help. Gay Judson in San Antonio, TX
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Cliff =
Leonard
> Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 6:42 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Peter Pugger
>=20
> Would like to have a discussion of the amount of time clay should be =
mixed
> before it is "extruded". I know there will be a lot of variables this
> would be a body used in a school setting where the clay is used =
"almost"
> as soon as it's made.
>=20
> Thanks,
> Cliff Leonard
>=20
> =
_________________________________________________________________________=
_
> ____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>=20
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>=20
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Artistic Villas on thu 3 nov 05
We try not to use the clay that has just come out and try to age it as
long as possible....not always possible.....if you can't wait the less
time in the mixer the better in our opinion once you have it mixed as
the longer its in there the more it heats up and is less workable....at
least in our case.
As for the other, I think its as simple that the mixer allows you to mix
the dry clay with water and to add recycle scrap while the pugger just
allows you to de-air already mixed, moise clay.
------------------
I have no response to Cliff's question, but have another of my own.
What
does the Peter Pugger MIXER do that other puggers without the mixer
can't
do. Why is the mixer aspect of the Peter Pugger important?
Thanks for your help. Gay Judson in San Antonio, TX
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Cliff
Leonard
> Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 6:42 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Peter Pugger
>
> Would like to have a discussion of the amount of time clay should be
mixed
> before it is "extruded". I know there will be a lot of variables this
> would be a body used in a school setting where the clay is used
"almost"
> as soon as it's made.
>
> Thanks,
> Cliff Leonard
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
__
> ____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
________________________________________________________________________
______
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Gail Dapogny on fri 4 nov 05
At our guild where we use a Peter Pugger daily (often several times a
day), we throw in slaked watery scrap, dry mix (which we've mixed in a
separate dry mixer), and water as needed, then run the mixer for about
8-10 minutes or so. Check consistency and correct, then another 8
minutes. Check and correct again as needed, and run for another maybe 5
minutes. Then pug. Some of our clay gets a few weeks of aging, but,
if we're running low, then it gets used as soon as it comes out of the
pugger!
With our porcelain, we throw in 45 grams of dissolved Epsom salts per
pugger load (thanks to Ron Roy suggesting this) which helps immensely
in increasing plasticity . Nothing is foolproof when making clay, but
this seems to work for us.
Gail
Gail Dapogny
Ann Arbor, Michigan
gdapogny@umich.edu
http://www.claygallery.org/
http://www.pottersguild.net/
On Nov 3, 2005, at 7:42 AM, Cliff Leonard wrote:
> Would like to have a discussion of the amount of time clay should be
> mixed
> before it is "extruded". I know there will be a lot of variables this
> would be a body used in a school setting where the clay is used
> "almost"
> as soon as it's made.
> Thanks,
> Cliff Leonard
>
LindaC on mon 5 jun 06
Could you offer some feedback as to the ease of cleaning a Peter Pugger when
switching between porcelain and other clays? Thankyou, Linda/Oh
Wayne Seidl on mon 5 jun 06
Linda:
I can't speak for all PP owners. I have found my VPM-30 to be =
reasonably
easy to clean, though it does take some time, and there is some heavy
lifting involved. Plan on about four hours to do it "shiny like new".
Remember to unplug the machine before starting any disassembly!=20
For my model, at least, it involves removing the bolts that hold the =
nose
cone on, then unbolting the body section behind it (more bolts, and this
section is heavy, so you will want to support it with whatever is =
available
or use a strong-backed, weak-minded friend. )=20
With those two sections out of the way (you can use a hose and brush to =
wash
those two sections out once they are off the machine), it is fairly easy =
to
clean the impeller and what I call the "feed housing" (the part with the
hopper opening) without disassembling it further. The edges of the auger =
are
sharp (or can be) so be careful when reaching around in there. If you =
own
one of the larger models, you will probably want to remove the next =
section
as well as an additional step, which involves removing the safety switch
assembly, the hopper door etc. but gives you the easiest time in getting =
to
everything to clean it. Watch for the rubber seal on the auger shaft =
where
it meets the vacuum chamber wall. You don't want to be spraying water =
in
there if possible. Don't forget to clean the vacuum chamber.
There's nothing quite like the sense of accomplishment from seeing a =
grungy
machine brought back to bright and shiny. Even if only for a little =
while.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of LindaC
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2006 4:33 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Peter Pugger
Could you offer some feedback as to the ease of cleaning a Peter Pugger =
when
switching between porcelain and other clays? Thankyou, Linda/Oh
_________________________________________________________________________=
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tonya Johnson on mon 5 jun 06
Linda,
I usually add all my scrap porcelain and mix it up and use it as a dirty
porcelain batch. My next batch will be almost pure porcelain and so on.
However, I have also cleaned the machine several times and it takes two people about
an hour and a half to have it completely shinny clean. Unplug, and scrape,
and then scrub, and flush and flush and flush : ) Good luck!
Betsy Cox on sun 6 aug 06
I also have a Peter Pugger VPM30. It does a great job.
We use it to remix clay and condition it. Also add extra grog. Works =
wonderful.=20
Also Kelly might try U-Line for boxes. They have a website.
Betsy Cox =20
Echo Valley Pottery, In WVa evp@comcast.net
Des & Jan Howard on wed 6 jan 10
Steve
FWIW. According to their blurbs Venco use marine grade
aluminium in their pugmills.
Des
steve graber wrote:
> what are the pug mill people using as a production fix?
> i would think with aluminum bodies a hard anodize would make
> that surface pretty darn strong and acid-or base-inert.
> short of using stainless steel or chrome-nickle plating what's left?
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
Lue NSW
Australia
2850
02 6373 6419
www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
-32.656072 149.840624
Randall Moody on fri 4 feb 11
Our Peter Pugger just died at the studio. It won't turn on. When it is
plugged in and the on button is pressed you get nothing. Not even a
hum of electricity. Anybody have any ideas on what may be the problem?
--
Randall in Atlanta
http://wrandallmoody.com
Larry Kruzan on fri 4 feb 11
What Model PP do you have?
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Moody"
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Friday, February 4, 2011 2:12:02 PM
Subject: Peter Pugger
Our Peter Pugger just died at the studio. It won't turn on. When it is
plugged in and the on button is pressed you get nothing. Not even a
hum of electricity. Anybody have any ideas on what may be the problem?
--
Randall in Atlanta
http://wrandallmoody.com
Larry Kruzan on fri 4 feb 11
My VPM-60 has fuse holders in the end - above the motor. I can't imagine ho=
w I'd function without mine for a day......
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Moody"
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Friday, February 4, 2011 2:12:02 PM
Subject: Peter Pugger
Our Peter Pugger just died at the studio. It won't turn on. When it is
plugged in and the on button is pressed you get nothing. Not even a
hum of electricity. Anybody have any ideas on what may be the problem?
--
Randall in Atlanta
http://wrandallmoody.com
William & Susan Schran User on fri 4 feb 11
On 2/4/11 3:12 PM, "Randall Moody" wrote:
> Our Peter Pugger just died at the studio. It won't turn on. When it is
> plugged in and the on button is pressed you get nothing. Not even a
> hum of electricity. Anybody have any ideas on what may be the problem?
I'm at home, Pugger at school.
Trying to recall if there is a replaceable fuse on the machine.
You did check to make sure the circuit for the outlet is not tripped?
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Randall Moody on sat 5 feb 11
On Fri, Feb 4, 2011 at 11:08 PM, Birgit Wright wr=
=3D
ote:
> Hi Randall;=3DA0 Definitely check the fuse, Happened to me, won't go with=
ou=3D
t a
> new fuse, call PP if you don't remember the size of fuse.
> Cheers, Birgit.
>
>> Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2011 15:12:02 -0500
>> From: randall.moody@GMAIL.COM
>> Subject: Peter Pugger
>> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>>
>> Our Peter Pugger just died at the studio. It won't turn on. When it is
>> plugged in and the on button is pressed you get nothing. Not even a
>> hum of electricity. Anybody have any ideas on what may be the problem?
>>
>> --
>> Randall in Atlanta
>> http://wrandallmoody.com
>
Thanks to everyone. I have checked the fuse box and it is fine. I am
now in the process of checking the fuses on the Pugger itself (if it
has them), and the on/off switches. If I can get it running I will
update everyone in case it happens to them.
--=3D20
Randall in Atlanta
http://wrandallmoody.com
David McBeth on sat 5 feb 11
I have had two gear related issues with our Peter Pugger VPM 30 over the
last couple of years. I have found the tech support folks at Peter Pugger
to very heplful, just give the a call or email.
Dave McBeth
On Fri, Feb 4, 2011 at 2:12 PM, Randall Moody wrot=
e:
> Our Peter Pugger just died at the studio. It won't turn on. When it is
> plugged in and the on button is pressed you get nothing. Not even a
> hum of electricity. Anybody have any ideas on what may be the problem?
>
> --
> Randall in Atlanta
> http://wrandallmoody.com
>
--
David McBeth
Professor of Art
Department of Visual and Theatre Arts
University of Tennessee - Martin
731-881-7416
Steve Mills on sat 5 feb 11
An internal fuse perhaps?
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my Ipod touch
On 4 Feb 2011, at 20:12, Randall Moody wrote:
> Our Peter Pugger just died at the studio. It won't turn on. When it is
> plugged in and the on button is pressed you get nothing. Not even a
> hum of electricity. Anybody have any ideas on what may be the problem?
>
> --
> Randall in Atlanta
> http://wrandallmoody.com
Birgit Wright on sat 5 feb 11
Hi Randall=3D3B Definitely check the fuse=3D2C Happened to me=3D2C won't g=
o with=3D
out a new fuse=3D2C call PP if you don't remember the size of fuse.
Cheers=3D2C Birgit.
=3D20
> Date: Fri=3D2C 4 Feb 2011 15:12:02 -0500
> From: randall.moody@GMAIL.COM
> Subject: Peter Pugger
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>=3D20
> Our Peter Pugger just died at the studio. It won't turn on. When it is
> plugged in and the on button is pressed you get nothing. Not even a
> hum of electricity. Anybody have any ideas on what may be the problem?
>=3D20
> --
> Randall in Atlanta
> http://wrandallmoody.com
=3D
Randall Moody on mon 7 feb 11
Well it was the fuse after all. At first glance it appeared to be fine
but upon closer inspection it was blown. To any who looks at the fuse
it is a 250V which has a fiberglass core with an extremely thin
filament wrapped around that.
--
Randall in Atlanta
http://wrandallmoody.com
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