Tony Ferguson on tue 20 nov 01
Dave,
I just wanted to say I have sucessfully single fired bone dry grolleg
porcelain that is very thin (paper thin likes to slump) as well as
stoneware--dangerous but of course I had to do it. I had walls that split
apart in half...fun fun fun. But, it will work if you give it some lov'in!
Tony Ferguson, Duluth MN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Finkelnburg"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: Single Firing,
> Cathi,
> I second the suggestion to get Fran Tristram's book. She does and
> excellent job on the pros and cons of single firing.
> If you find the interior of functional ware rough, you may want to use
a
> slip on the inside before glazing. It has worked well for me.
> I single fire large pieces that would be cumbersome to fire twice. I
> save time and effort single-firing them.
> Raw glazing does not work on very thin ware which is bone dry--the
ware
> absorbs too much moisture from the glaze and tends to crack.
> Like all ceramic disciplines, single firing is something to be
learned.
> You may need to glaze at leather hard, depending on your ware, or change
the
> glaze recipe or glaze rheology (thickness, so to speak) depending on your
> work. On heavy ware I get away with just spraying on my regular glazes.
> What works for you will depend on the ware, your glazes and how you work.
> I am trying to say, don't expect single-firing to work totally for you
> from the first attempt. You will be starting one more learning process in
> clay. :-)
> Good luck!
> Dave Finkelnburg in Idaho
>
>
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Dave Finkelnburg on tue 20 nov 01
Cathi,
I second the suggestion to get Fran Tristram's book. She does and
excellent job on the pros and cons of single firing.
If you find the interior of functional ware rough, you may want to use a
slip on the inside before glazing. It has worked well for me.
I single fire large pieces that would be cumbersome to fire twice. I
save time and effort single-firing them.
Raw glazing does not work on very thin ware which is bone dry--the ware
absorbs too much moisture from the glaze and tends to crack.
Like all ceramic disciplines, single firing is something to be learned.
You may need to glaze at leather hard, depending on your ware, or change the
glaze recipe or glaze rheology (thickness, so to speak) depending on your
work. On heavy ware I get away with just spraying on my regular glazes.
What works for you will depend on the ware, your glazes and how you work.
I am trying to say, don't expect single-firing to work totally for you
from the first attempt. You will be starting one more learning process in
clay. :-)
Good luck!
Dave Finkelnburg in Idaho
Dave Finkelnburg on wed 21 nov 01
Tony,
You wrote, "...I have sucessfully single fired bone dry grolleg
>porcelain that is very thin (paper thin likes to slump) as well as
>stoneware...."
Could you tell us what techniques you used to successfully glaze your
thin, bone dry ware before single firing it? I'd like to explore this
process more. Thanks!
Dave Finkelnburg
WHC228@AOL.COM on wed 21 nov 01
I single fire almost everything that I make. The only exceptions are
complicated pieces, like teapots, or pots with bottoms so large that the
can't support the weight of the glaze. I have been doing it for probably
close to twenty years.
It is a skill that is worth learning! Not having to run an extra kiln should
be an obvious plus for everyone. I even do my crystalline pieces that way.
Start saving time, and quit wasting energy. It is not that difficult.
Bill
chris clarke on wed 21 nov 01
Tony,
How on earth do you raw glaze something like a teapot with a bail
handle???? I have enough problems not knocking it off putting it into the
kiln, let alone glazing it raw. Maybe I should turn down my music and quit
dancing : )
But really, I know glazes are changed a bit. Do you glaze the inside
and wait? Does it change colors or textures?
I had read there's a better relationship between the clay and glaze when
it's done this way, more integration of the layers. I guess I should just
try it.
chris
temecula, california
chris@ccpots.com
www.ccpots.com
Cheryl K Hanley on wed 21 nov 01
Bill do you happen to share any of your recipes? I would like to know
some that work on porcelain, can you help?
Cheryl
On Wed, 21 Nov 2001 08:50:54 EST WHC228@AOL.COM writes:
> I single fire almost everything that I make. The only exceptions are
> complicated pieces, like teapots, or pots with bottoms so large that
> the
> can't support the weight of the glaze. I have been doing it for
> probably
> close to twenty years.
> It is a skill that is worth learning! Not having to run an extra
> kiln should
> be an obvious plus for everyone. I even do my crystalline pieces
> that way.
> Start saving time, and quit wasting energy. It is not that
> difficult.
> Bill
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Cindy Strnad on wed 21 nov 01
Dear Chris,
I read this in an old book, which I believe was
called The Self-Sufficient Potter--something
similar to that, anyway. To raw glaze a teapot,
first make the teapot body and glaze it inside.
Then drill the holes for the strainer, add the
spout, handle, etc, and glaze the outside at this
point. I'm sure the author didn't do this, but if
I were doing it, I would glaze the outside by
spraying. He dipped the spout a little way up to
get glaze inside it, but never glazed it all the
way to the strainer.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com
Lee Love on wed 21 nov 01
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Ferguson"
> union produces. You know all those beautiful Chun vases, the works of the
> Japanese--do you think they loaded a 10 chamber Naborigama for a week, fired
> it for 2 more weeks up to bisque, unloaded it, glazed and then reloaded, and
> started firing again?, etc.
Chun is from China. It is a glaze I use (or 'used' back in St. Paul.)
At the workshop here in Mashiko, we bisque in the Noborigama. They did the
same at Hamada's. Many of the larger things would be difficult to glaze once
firing.
I think part of the reason for the bisque is to dry the kiln out
before it is glaze fired (we are glaze firing the Noborigama right now. Have
done two midnight shifts, first one (aburi, drying the ware) by myself. Should
be done in the wee hours tomorrow. I am home now 9am, go back before 1PM. Hope
to get a 2 hr. nap.)
Another alternative for saving fuel is one I am thinking about:
bisquing in a second chamber with waste heat from the first chamber. I'll
probably build the first chamber and make space between the 1st chamber and
chimney where the second chamber will eventually go.
--
Lee Love
Mashiko JAPAN Ikiru@kami.com
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Steve Mills on thu 22 nov 01
As a matter of interest I single fire, and all vessels are glazed on the
inside before trimming, and spouts before attaching. I don't do that
sort of handle, but I think I would let it get dryer than usual (but not
totally dry) before I glazed it. I'm going to have to try that one.
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , chris clarke writes
>Tony,
> How on earth do you raw glaze something like a teapot with a bail
>handle???? I have enough problems not knocking it off putting it into the
>kiln, let alone glazing it raw. Maybe I should turn down my music and quit
>dancing : )
>
> But really, I know glazes are changed a bit. Do you glaze the inside
>and wait? Does it change colors or textures?
>
> I had read there's a better relationship between the clay and glaze when
>it's done this way, more integration of the layers. I guess I should just
>try it.
>
>chris
>
>
>temecula, california
>chris@ccpots.com
> www.ccpots.com
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Tony Ferguson on thu 22 nov 01
Dave,
I don't really use any special techniques--wait till bone dry, and
glaze--try all methods and see what works best--it all depends on your
glazes--higher clay the better. I add 2.5% bentonite for a stronger
fit--not always necessary, however. I notice if I travel with the raw
glazed pots, the addition of the bentonite reduces glaze flaking while
bumping along the road. Spraying the glaze is always safest if you want to
hassle with the equipment.
When glazing, if the wall is paper or to thin, it may slump or rip itself
apart. Good compression with porcelain when you are throwing it is the key,
I think. I have since learned to have a little thicker walls--this has
prevented half mooning--where a part of the clay wall lifts itself away from
the wall in a half moon shape. Good luck and let me know if you have any
other questions.
Tony Ferguson, Duluth MN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Finkelnburg"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: Single Firing,
> Tony,
> You wrote, "...I have sucessfully single fired bone dry grolleg
> >porcelain that is very thin (paper thin likes to slump) as well as
> >stoneware...."
> Could you tell us what techniques you used to successfully glaze your
> thin, bone dry ware before single firing it? I'd like to explore this
> process more. Thanks!
> Dave Finkelnburg
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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