Jim and Marge Wade on tue 27 nov 01
Has anyone successfully changed the glaze Weathered Bronze Green (^6 ox) to
^8 or ^10 ox? I've got a porcelain body that I've used it on and it's
beautiful, but the pieces aren't fully vitrified. I'm not even sure it can
be done. Maybe someone has another similar glaze (verdigris copper color)
that's already ^8 or^10 (ox).
Thanks for the help.
Marge
PBORIAN on tue 27 nov 01
IF YOU ARE REFERRING TO THE PETER PINNELL STRONTIUM/LITHIUM MATT GLAZE
CALLED WEATHERED BRONZE GREEN, ALL I CAN SAY IS THAT I HAVE FIRED THIS BASE
GLAZE TO ^11 AND BEYOND, WITH RUNOFF PROBLEMS ONLY WHEN VERY THICK. THE
TROUBLE IS THAT THIS GLAZE NEEDS TO BE THICK, SO YOU NEED TO FIGURE OUT HOW
THICK YOU CAN GO. GOOD LUCK.
-PAUL BORIAN
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Jim and Marge Wade
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 12:18 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Changing ^6 glaze to ^ 8 or ^10
Has anyone successfully changed the glaze Weathered Bronze Green (^6 ox) to
^8 or ^10 ox? I've got a porcelain body that I've used it on and it's
beautiful, but the pieces aren't fully vitrified. I'm not even sure it can
be done. Maybe someone has another similar glaze (verdigris copper color)
that's already ^8 or^10 (ox).
Thanks for the help.
Marge
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Cindy Strnad on wed 28 nov 01
Dear Marge.
You don't have to change weathered bronze green.
It's already a ^9, maybe ^10 glaze. It just
happens to work at ^6.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com
Brooks Ratledge on wed 28 nov 01
You do need to cut down or delete the lithium. patricia harden
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-----Original Message-----
From: Cindy Strnad
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 7:26 AM
Subject: Re: Changing ^6 glaze to ^ 8 or ^10
>Dear Marge.
>
>You don't have to change weathered bronze green.
>It's already a ^9, maybe ^10 glaze. It just
>happens to work at ^6.
>
>Cindy Strnad
>Earthen Vessels Pottery
>RR 1, Box 51
>Custer, SD 57730
>USA
>cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
>http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Ababi on wed 28 nov 01
It would be a mistake because as far as I know, from Insight, by Tony
Hansen. I copy here:
Glaze Color: BLUE
Lithia can produce blue effects with copper.
Surface Modifier: MOTTLED EFFECTS
Lithia contributes to mottled and flow effects when used in small
amounts (-1%).
Again the weathered green is a high fire glaze.
It is like you have a ticket to Australia, and you ask how much you
should add to fly to Hawaii... ( from where YOU are)
Ababi
---------- Original Message ----------
>You do need to cut down or delete the lithium. patricia harden
>-----------------------------------------------------
>Click here for Free Video!!
>http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Cindy Strnad
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Date: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 7:26 AM
>Subject: Re: Changing ^6 glaze to ^ 8 or ^10
>>Dear Marge.
>>
>>You don't have to change weathered bronze green.
>>It's already a ^9, maybe ^10 glaze. It just
>>happens to work at ^6.
>>
>>Cindy Strnad
>>Earthen Vessels Pottery
>>RR 1, Box 51
>>Custer, SD 57730
>>USA
>>cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
>>http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com
>>
>>_______________________________________________________________________
>____
>___
>>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
>________________________________________________________________________
>______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Ababi on wed 28 nov 01
It is a high fire glaze. ^6 is the very lowest possible.
other variations of the glaze as Pete have written here recently,
without copper in a big amount do not mature in ^6 or very hardly too
matte. I mean I got too matte. Hard to control. Beautiful . This is why
I am developing another glaze, I have written about last week, that
feels like, but good for ^6. A different base I am not sure how to make
this particular beautiful Weathered green-like.
Now ^8 or ^10 might do well both
Ababi Sharon
Kibbutz Shoval- Israel
Glaze addict
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
http://www.israelceramics.org/
---------- Original Message ----------
>Has anyone successfully changed the glaze Weathered Bronze Green (^6
>ox) to
>^8 or ^10 ox? I've got a porcelain body that I've used it on and it's
>beautiful, but the pieces aren't fully vitrified. I'm not even sure it
>can
>be done. Maybe someone has another similar glaze (verdigris copper
>color)
>that's already ^8 or^10 (ox).
>Thanks for the help.
>Marge
>________________________________________________________________________
>______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Ken Chin-Purcell on thu 29 nov 01
Weathered green aside, I have used some cone 6 glazes
as starting points for firing cone 8-9 oxidation.
First thing is to become familiar with a glaze calc program.
My general strategy is:
A) If the glaze is near "good glass" Si and Al limits at
cone 6, just try firing it hotter.
Beware of overfluxed low Al glazes running...
B) If the glaze needs to be stiffer, then:
1) Reduce boron by about 0.2 moles (figure 0.1 mol per cone)
2) Raise alumina by 0.05 moles or silica by 0.5 moles,
while holding the Si + B to Al ratio constant.
3) Let calcia (and magnesia, if present) drift up by 0.05 moles.
Let KNaO drift down, as needed.
Your milage may vary...
-- Ken Chin-Purcell
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