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fading raku glazes

updated fri 21 feb 03

 

Craig Clark on mon 26 nov 01


Not that I had intended to be contrary with my first posting on the =
thread in quite some time, but, traditional RAKU LUSTER (aka copper =
matt) GLAZES FADE!!!!!! The fading may be arrested to a high degree if =
the pieces are sealed and kept out of direct sunlight.=20
For definitive information and an indepth explanation of the =
phenomenon check out the piece written by Tom Buck, "First You See It =
Then You Don't" Ceramic Review Issue #159, May/June 1996. If you want a =
copy of the article go to the digital fire web sight at =
digitalfire.com/education/glaze/buckraku.htm. You can download it from =
there. It is about twenty pages long.
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st.
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org

Don Curtis on sun 16 feb 03


Does anyone know if there is a way of protecting raku glazes from fading over
time?
My experience is that these glazes loss most of their brillant color after a
few years.
This includes naked raku-smoked lines disappear, copper matts-high in copper
low in glass and even raku glazes high in glass. Thanks in advance for any
help.

Don

Tony Ferguson on sun 16 feb 03


Don,

Spray a grout sealer or clear poly. You will need to experiment to see
which finish you like and don't like. Depends on your glaze thickness and
porosity of the surface.

Thank you.

Tony Ferguson
On Lake Superior, where the sky meets the Lake

Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku and more
by Coleman, Ferguson, Winchester...
www.aquariusartgallery.com
218-727-6339
315 N. Lake Ave
Apt 312
Duluth, MN 55806


----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Curtis"
To:
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 7:00 AM
Subject: Fading raku glazes


> Does anyone know if there is a way of protecting raku glazes from fading
over
> time?
> My experience is that these glazes loss most of their brillant color after
a
> few years.
> This includes naked raku-smoked lines disappear, copper matts-high in
copper
> low in glass and even raku glazes high in glass. Thanks in advance for any
> help.
>
> Don
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>

Reg Brown on sun 16 feb 03


Don, the goal is to seal the surface from sun fading and oxidation. Spray
lacquer found in the spray paint section at your local hardware works
extremely well. Spray gently to avoid drip lines and apply at least two
layers. This will effectively seal the surface for almost forever. You can
buy the lacquer in gloss, semi-gloss, or matt. This works for naked raku,
raku lusters, and texture glazes. Cheers!

Reg in Virginia
With 20 inches of snow today

Valice Raffi on sun 16 feb 03


>Does anyone know if there is a way of protecting raku glazes from fading over
>time?

I've been using the clear satin Polycrylic made by Minwax for about 3
years. It's water-soluble so my brushes clean up easily. I dilute it
quite a bit, maybe 1 part to 10 parts water to avoid that "plastic coating"
look. It's worked well for me.

Valice
in Sacramento

Tony Ferguson on sun 16 feb 03


I forgot to add that oiling or waxing the pot (floor wax even) is another
alternative to limiting oxidization--this will affect your surface depending
on your glaze type and thickness--so you really need to experiment and find
what you like--don't use lard!

If you really wanted to get serious about it I suppose you could spray a
clear epoxy. A very skilled potter said to me that with raku "you should
always have a strong form as the colors may change over time." And I would
add "it is sure nice to be able to preserve some of the color if you can."
I don't make much raku anymore with exception of sculpture, teabowls,
jewelry jars and essential oil diffusers and I tell people that the colors
may change over time due to oxidation (depending on the glaze I use). I
give them the tips for treating the surface if they want to.

Thank you.

Tony Ferguson
On Lake Superior, where the sky meets the Lake

Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku and more
by Coleman, Ferguson, Winchester...
www.aquariusartgallery.com
218-727-6339
315 N. Lake Ave
Apt 312
Duluth, MN 55806


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Ferguson"
To:
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: Fading raku glazes


> Don,
>
> Spray a grout sealer or clear poly. You will need to experiment to see
> which finish you like and don't like. Depends on your glaze thickness and
> porosity of the surface.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Tony Ferguson
> On Lake Superior, where the sky meets the Lake
>
> Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku and more
> by Coleman, Ferguson, Winchester...
> www.aquariusartgallery.com
> 218-727-6339
> 315 N. Lake Ave
> Apt 312
> Duluth, MN 55806
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Curtis"
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 7:00 AM
> Subject: Fading raku glazes
>
>
> > Does anyone know if there is a way of protecting raku glazes from fading
> over
> > time?
> > My experience is that these glazes loss most of their brillant color
after
> a
> > few years.
> > This includes naked raku-smoked lines disappear, copper matts-high in
> copper
> > low in glass and even raku glazes high in glass. Thanks in advance for
any
> > help.
> >
> > Don
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>

Marta Matray Gloviczki on sun 16 feb 03


don,

i sprayed a new product on my raku fired pieces last
summer and the colors are still look the same.
very bright copper and turquoise colors.
of course i dont know how they will change or not
change a year from now...
the spray is called: water warden
pottery protector
check it out at: www.waterwarden.com
it is from annie`s mud pie shop
toll free: 1-866-438-2529

hope this helps,
marta

=====
marta matray gloviczki
rochester,mn
http://users.skynet.be/russel.fouts/Marta.htm
http://www.silverhawk.com/crafts/gloviczki/welcome.html

__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
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J. B. Clauson on sun 16 feb 03


I have several raku pieces that were fired between 3 and 6 years ago. The
only ones that have faded are the ones that were left where the sun could
get at them. The rest seem to be fine. One has suffered some glaze
shrinkage that wasn't there right after I fired it. This took about 2 years
to show up. I, too, curious about the durability of raku pieces and the
glazes. I always included a little folder with instructions on the care of
feeding of raku with each one I sold. So far I've had no complaints. The
pieces I have at home were glaze testers and failures (cracks, etc) that I
kept to see how they aged. Pieces are primarily candle lanterns and some
incense burners and pot-pourri containers

Jan C.

Tony Ferguson on mon 17 feb 03


Billie,

Wouldn't watering down a glaze spread the particles apart as they are
suspended in water? I am unclear as to how this would seal the surface any
better than the original glaze or covering the pot with at least 2 layers?
I am curious what Vince and others have to say on this theory.


Tony


Thank you.

Tony Ferguson
On Lake Superior, where the sky meets the Lake

Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku and more
by Coleman, Ferguson, Winchester...
www.aquariusartgallery.com
218-727-6339
315 N. Lake Ave
Apt 312
Duluth, MN 55806


----- Original Message -----
From: "Billie Mitchell"
To:
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2003 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: Fading raku glazes


> a few weeks ago i attended paul soldner workshop. during the workshop he
> told us of a way to keep copper glazes from fading.. now i havent tried it
> yet but i will give you his directions and you can figure it out for
> yourself.
> first you glaze the pot with the copper glaze as you normally would.. then
> take some of the same glaze and water it down. he said like water.. but i
> would experiment with it. then put a layer of the watered down version
> ontop of the orginal glaze. he said this would seal it.. i am guessing
this
> is acting like a clear glaze and sealing it but not changing the glaze as
> it still has the same properties. fire as normal. another tip he gave us
> was to use terra sig on your pot to get really good blacks. hope this
helps
> you. if anyone doesnt understand please email me..
>
>
>
> billie mitchell
> artistswc@bellsouth.net
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>

Marcia Selsor on mon 17 feb 03


Since I did my 8 year test on raku glazes, another product has been
brought to my attention. Armor-all which is used on cars, was introduced
to me at the Bray last fall. It is used to keep the sheen of lusters on
pots by some of the people there.
I haven't done a long term study of this.
Best wishes,

Marcia Selsor
--
Tuscany in 2003
http://home.attbi.com/~m.selsor/Tuscany2003.html

Marcia Selsor on mon 17 feb 03


Dear Don,

This is in the archives with much more detail and has been discussed
many times. I did a test in my back yard in Montana for over 8 years of
a copper luster glaze with acrylic medium on it. The area without the
acrylic coating turned green.
Marcia Selsor in Montana


Don Curtis wrote:
> Does anyone know if there is a way of protecting raku glazes from fading over
> time?
> My experience is that these glazes loss most of their brillant color after a
> few years.
> This includes naked raku-smoked lines disappear, copper matts-high in copper
> low in glass and even raku glazes high in glass. Thanks in advance for any
> help.
>
> Don
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>


--
Tuscany in 2003
http://home.attbi.com/~m.selsor/Tuscany2003.html

Craig Dunn Clark on mon 17 feb 03


Reg how will the application of a transparent medium "seal the surface"
from the suns rays? As far as I know the only way to keep an unstable raku
glaze such as a copper matt from remaining photo reactive is to put it in a
nice dark place.
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org

----- Original Message -----
From: "Reg Brown"
To:
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: Fading raku glazes


> Don, the goal is to seal the surface from sun fading and oxidation. Spray
> lacquer found in the spray paint section at your local hardware works
> extremely well. Spray gently to avoid drip lines and apply at least two
> layers. This will effectively seal the surface for almost forever. You
can
> buy the lacquer in gloss, semi-gloss, or matt. This works for naked raku,
> raku lusters, and texture glazes. Cheers!
>
> Reg in Virginia
> With 20 inches of snow today
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Sam Yancy on mon 17 feb 03


Has anybody tried TUNG OIL - found at a local hardware/paint shop? Since raku is "absorbent" to some degree, Tung oil can be brushed or dipped - easily and once dried (about 24 hours) works well - and seals the piece with a few coats. I also generally refinish(paint stripped and sanded) furniture with it - about impervious to anything - no water or alcohol spots. The more coats you apply - the deeper the finish. Follow directions on the can/bottle. Very inexpensive. Does not seem to fade or change with time. Much better than spraying with a lacquer or poly finish methinks. Comments? Sam in Daly City
Don Curtis wrote: Does anyone know if there is a way of protecting raku glazes from fading over
time?
My experience is that these glazes loss most of their brillant color after a
few years.
This includes naked raku-smoked lines disappear, copper matts-high in copper
low in glass and even raku glazes high in glass. Thanks in advance for any
help.

Don

______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

Billie Mitchell on mon 17 feb 03


a few weeks ago i attended paul soldner workshop. during the workshop he
told us of a way to keep copper glazes from fading.. now i havent tried it
yet but i will give you his directions and you can figure it out for
yourself.
first you glaze the pot with the copper glaze as you normally would.. then
take some of the same glaze and water it down. he said like water.. but i
would experiment with it. then put a layer of the watered down version
ontop of the orginal glaze. he said this would seal it.. i am guessing this
is acting like a clear glaze and sealing it but not changing the glaze as
it still has the same properties. fire as normal. another tip he gave us
was to use terra sig on your pot to get really good blacks. hope this helps
you. if anyone doesnt understand please email me..



billie mitchell
artistswc@bellsouth.net

Snail Scott on tue 18 feb 03


At 09:46 AM 2/17/03 -0800, you wrote:
>Has anybody tried TUNG OIL - found at a local hardware/paint shop? Since
raku is "absorbent" to some degree...



But we're talking about protecting the glaze,
not the clay, aren't we? The glaze itself is
not absorbent. Oiling the surface is reported
by some people to have a delaying effect on
glaze reoxidation, but absorbency is surely
irrelevant unless the intent is to seal the
clay body itself.

-Snail

Snail Scott on tue 18 feb 03


At 11:36 AM 2/17/03 -0600, you wrote:
>...how will the application of a transparent medium "seal the surface"
>from the suns rays?


There are a number of coatings on the market
which are designed to be UV protective. Golden
makes a line of acrylic varnishes intended for
use over paintings, but I've found them to be
useful as surface protectants and sheen modifiers.
(They make an ammonia-soluble version and a
paint-thinner-soluble version (both water-based).
I use the thinner-soluble version out of fear that
someone may someday Windex my work to clean it!)
I have no concern for the effects of UV on my
engobes, and don't buy these products for that
purpose, but if you are concerned about sunlight,
they may be useful for that as well.

They do leave a noticeable surface coating,
which suits my purposes, but perhaps not yours.

-Snail

Leland G. Hall on tue 18 feb 03


Does anyone know if there is a way of protecting raku glazes from fading
over
>time?

I've been using the clear satin Polycrylic made by Minwax for about 3
years. It's water-soluble so my brushes clean up easily. I dilute it
quite a bit, maybe 1 part to 10 parts water to avoid that "plastic coating"
look. It's worked well for me.

Valice
in Sacramento

Hello.

To me part of the art of raku is to design both glaze and vessel to allow
for the possibility of fading. I try to rely on heavy metalics a little as
possible, and test glazes under oxidation conditions to see if they are
beatiful. Too much copper makes a gaudy green. Just the right amount
makes a pretty jade. Or moss. A little cobalt for aqua. This way when
the reduced coppers fade, you can still have a pretty pot. This takes a
seat of your pants judgement. JMO. I'm talking about gloss glazes here,
not matt, which I tend to stay away from.

Leland Hall
Before the Wheel Enterprises
La Pine, OR

Gregory Evans on tue 18 feb 03


Thompson Water sealer (Spray) works well. I have a piece that is over 10
years old and it has not faded.

Craig Dunn Clark on tue 18 feb 03


Billie, I agree with the skepticism that is expressed by Tony. The only
thing that an addition thin coat of a glaze will do is put more of the glaze
on the pot. I do not understand how it would affect the stability of the
glaze. Try the suggestion that Marcia Selsor gave, and has tested over 8
winters up in Montanna. She put an acrylic medium on the lusters, or pay
attention to snails suggestion about the UV protective medium that are out
there.
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Ferguson"
To:
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2003 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: Fading raku glazes


> Billie,
>
> Wouldn't watering down a glaze spread the particles apart as they are
> suspended in water? I am unclear as to how this would seal the surface
any
> better than the original glaze or covering the pot with at least 2 layers?
> I am curious what Vince and others have to say on this theory.
>
>
> Tony
>
>
> Thank you.
>
> Tony Ferguson
> On Lake Superior, where the sky meets the Lake
>
> Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku and more
> by Coleman, Ferguson, Winchester...
> www.aquariusartgallery.com
> 218-727-6339
> 315 N. Lake Ave
> Apt 312
> Duluth, MN 55806
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Billie Mitchell"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, February 17, 2003 7:28 PM
> Subject: Re: Fading raku glazes
>
>
> > a few weeks ago i attended paul soldner workshop. during the workshop he
> > told us of a way to keep copper glazes from fading.. now i havent tried
it
> > yet but i will give you his directions and you can figure it out for
> > yourself.
> > first you glaze the pot with the copper glaze as you normally would..
then
> > take some of the same glaze and water it down. he said like water.. but
i
> > would experiment with it. then put a layer of the watered down version
> > ontop of the orginal glaze. he said this would seal it.. i am guessing
> this
> > is acting like a clear glaze and sealing it but not changing the glaze
as
> > it still has the same properties. fire as normal. another tip he gave us
> > was to use terra sig on your pot to get really good blacks. hope this
> helps
> > you. if anyone doesnt understand please email me..
> >
> >
> >
> > billie mitchell
> > artistswc@bellsouth.net
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Lari Ward on wed 19 feb 03


Hi all,
I have found that a lot of the products that have been suggested =
actually
"brown" out and mute the wonderful burgundy and bright blue colors in a
copper mat glaze. I don't get these changes on a shiny copper glaze. I
would be interested if that is the case with others. If not maybe I =
will
try the products again. =20

Lari Ward =20

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Gregory =
Evans
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2003 7:39 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Fading raku glazes

Thompson Water sealer (Spray) works well. I have a piece that is over 10
years old and it has not faded.

_________________________________________________________________________=
___
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Tom Buck on thu 20 feb 03


Why is it, Marcia, that raku potters still moan over fading lustres?
In 1995 I did a series of lustre revisions, and I published the
results in Ceramic Review May/June 1996. To my satisfaction, I
showed that by avoiding the 80/20 base recipe, one could have lustres
that resisted fading even outdoors in bright sunlight for months.
the original article is on file at digitalfire.com
I'd make this revision: use either Gillespie borate or Boraq in place
of gertley borate now in dwindling supply and falling boric oxide
content.
later. peace. Tom.

Tom Buck ) -- primary address.
"alias" or secondary address.
tel: 905-389-2339 (westend Lake Ontario, province of Ontario, Canada).
mailing address: 373 East 43rd Street, Hamilton ON L8T 3E1 Canada

Leland G. Hall on thu 20 feb 03


Craig wrote in part:

Billie, I agree with the skepticism that is expressed by Tony. The only
thing that an addition thin coat of a glaze will do is put more of the glaze
on the pot. I do not understand how it would affect the stability of the
glaze.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
So it was Soldner who reportedly suggested more glaze to stablize glaze?
Thats funny. Paul is one of my heros. And considering some of his
advertising of the past, I suspect that he may have a wry sense of humor.
He must. I mean, come on, I've seen a photo of him grinning in a diaper!!
So more glaze to stabilize glaze. Mmmmmmmmm. What's he up too? A bit of
leg pulling perhaps? I don't know, just guessing.

Best Regards
Leland Hall
Before the Wheel Enterprises
La Pine OR