Naomi Rieder on fri 7 dec 01
Can someone suggest what type of waterproof floor covering I could put on,
but not attach to, a wooden floor, to protect it from water damage, etc. It
would have to be firm enough to be vacuumed. I've seen photos of studios
with something that looks right, so I believe it exists. Perhaps rubber?
And wide enough so as not to be pieced?
TIA
Naomi Riede
Lois Ruben Aronow on fri 7 dec 01
On Fri, 7 Dec 2001 13:08:28 -0500, you wrote:
>Can someone suggest what type of waterproof floor covering I could put =
on,
>but not attach to, a wooden floor, to protect it from water damage, etc.=
It
>would have to be firm enough to be vacuumed. I've seen photos of studios
>with something that looks right, so I believe it exists. Perhaps =
rubber?
>And wide enough so as not to be pieced?
>
In my studio, we have a plywood floor (technically a sub-floor), which
is painted in deck paint. It's waterproof, and sweeps up great. And
it's cheap. Holds up great. The contractor used a thick plywood (I
forgot what it's called). It's like 5/8". It's shimmed up from
underneath to offset our uneven floor, and the little bit of bounce
you get makes it easier on the feet.
I would imagine that those fine dust particles would stick to rubber.
CMG on fri 7 dec 01
My studio has wood floors. I used cement porch and floor paint, gave it
several coats, and it's lasted great for years. I mop it pretty much every
day too.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Naomi Rieder"
To:
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 11:08 AM
Subject: studio floors
> Can someone suggest what type of waterproof floor covering I could put on,
> but not attach to, a wooden floor, to protect it from water damage, etc.
It
> would have to be firm enough to be vacuumed. I've seen photos of studios
> with something that looks right, so I believe it exists. Perhaps rubber?
> And wide enough so as not to be pieced?
>
> TIA
> Naomi Riede
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Lexxy on sat 8 dec 01
I also got a big 12x16 sheet of quality vinyl [$50}for the throwing area
that was out dated cuz it was grey and peach marbled...perlectly matching
clay so it's harder to see the spots but easy to mop. I cut it to fit and
put down new quarter round and caulked it well. Didn't use adhesive cuz the
heavy clay and furniture holds it down fine. Sure wish I had a drain in the
floor, tho!
Lexxey
Please check out my website at: http://www.flummoxed.org/lexxey/index.htm
Plastic lino, cushioned for comfort! works very well. Bit expensive, but it
will last.
Martin Howard
Martin Howard on sat 8 dec 01
Plastic lino, cushioned for comfort! works very well. Bit expensive, but it
will last.
Mine is in a clay tile design, which looks almost as if I'd made and laid
tiles in the first place, which was one idea:-)
It's very easy to both dry sweep (I know one shouldn't but I do it very
carefully) and wet sweep clean and polish. The liquid cleaner gives a nice
polish for special occasions, such a Pottery Parties.
Martin Howard
Webbs Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
01371 850 423
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
This web-site is being updated NOW!
Klyf Brown on sat 8 dec 01
Naomi,
Pond liner comes to mind. 45 mill rubber. It is fairly heavy. The only
problem may be that it is black. You could use an urethane coating
and get a lighter colour. That would also make it easier to clean. I can
have it custom cut for you to the size needed (square or rectangle
only) up to 50 feet wide. You would have the added benefit of having
a soft floor to work on, better for the feet and back. If you are
interested, contact me off list and I can quote you prices etc.
Klyf Brown in New Mexico where the trees are FINALLY
defoliating. Now I can get on with mulching the winter garden.
12/7/01 11:08:28 AM, Naomi Rieder
wrote:
>Can someone suggest what type of waterproof floor covering I
could put on,
>but not attach to, a wooden floor, to protect it from water damage,
etc. It
>would have to be firm enough to be vacuumed.
Ann Semple on sat 8 dec 01
Klyf,
I know this is going to sound dumb, but how would you propose adhering the
liner to the floor and getting it wrinkle free? ( it is very heavy and I
can't see being able to get it down smooth and flat. I just happen to have
a large quantity of 45 mill liner on hand due to a recent fiasco with a
pond, and would be very happy to find a use for it. I am also at the stage
of studio construction where it would be appropriate to do something like
this with the concrete floor.
Ann
annsemple@shaw.ca
If you enjoy what you do, you'll never work another day in your life.
Confucius
----- Original Message -----
From: "Klyf Brown"
To:
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2001 1:52 AM
Subject: Re: studio floors
Naomi,
Pond liner comes to mind. 45 mill rubber. It is fairly heavy. The only
problem may be that it is black. You could use an urethane coating
and get a lighter colour. That would also make it easier to clean. I can
have it custom cut for you to the size needed (square or rectangle
only) up to 50 feet wide. You would have the added benefit of having
a soft floor to work on, better for the feet and back. If you are
interested, contact me off list and I can quote you prices etc.
Klyf Brown in New Mexico where the trees are FINALLY
defoliating. Now I can get on with mulching the winter garden.
12/7/01 11:08:28 AM, Naomi Rieder
wrote:
>Can someone suggest what type of waterproof floor covering I
could put on,
>but not attach to, a wooden floor, to protect it from water damage,
etc. It
>would have to be firm enough to be vacuumed.
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Bryan on sat 8 dec 01
> Naomi,
> Pond liner comes to mind. 45 mill rubber. It is fairly heavy. The only
> problem may be that it is black.
EDPM, the material used for roofing and pond liners is available in white as
well. I haven't removed the rubber roofing on what is now the floor of the
room above my studio. Black is an odd color for a floor, but I'd feel
comfortable being rather messy on it.
Bryan
Susan Fox-Hirschmann on sun 9 dec 01
I had plain old armstrong cheap tiles installed about 20 years ago.--no need
for the expense of a subfloor....washes great, pretty rugged, resilient for
the feet. I recommend it!
If, however, i build another studio, i might go with the commercial stuff.
good luck
susan fox hirschmann
>From: Naomi Rieder
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: studio floors
>Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 13:08:28 -0500
>
>Can someone suggest what type of waterproof floor covering I could put on,
>but not attach to, a wooden floor, to protect it from water damage, etc.
>It
>would have to be firm enough to be vacuumed. I've seen photos of studios
>with something that looks right, so I believe it exists. Perhaps rubber?
>And wide enough so as not to be pieced?
>
>TIA
>Naomi Riede
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________
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Klyf Brown on sun 9 dec 01
Ann,
The 45 mill stuff should lay out flat by itself. If it was folded and got
wrinkled, it may need to be streched out flat out in the sun for a few
hours. I got the impression from Naomai's post that she was looking
for a non permanant application (like a rented studio). I would think
that double sided carpet tape would be sufficient to hold it in place
untill you "moved in". Or perhaps something heavy like a cabinet or
wheeel. Then all your stuff would hold it down. A more permanant
souution would be a layer of epoxy on the concrete floor and then lay
the rubber in the curing epoxy.
The very best studio floor is the one I installed in my shop. It involves
the initial layer of epoxy, then a layer of liquid urethane (rubber in lay
terms) followed by an alaphatic seal coat and topped off with an
aromatic sealer for durabality and water proofing. The floor can be
installed very thin for economy or thicker for that "kinder and gentler"
standing surface. I coved the material up the walls about four inches
effectivly making it a shower pan. When a simple vacuum cleaning will
no longer suffice I can hose the place out with a pressure washer or
garden hose followed by a wet/vac>
There is a more detailed description of the floor here
http://epoxyman.com/UreFlex.html
Klyf Brown in New Mexico
12/8/01 11:38:47 AM, Ann Semple
wrote:
>Klyf,
>I know this is going to sound dumb, but how would you propose
adhering the
>liner to the floor and getting it wrinkle free? ( it is very heavy and I
>can't see being able to get it down smooth and flat.
Brenda Beeley on sun 9 dec 01
I just painted my plywood floors with latex primer and then porch enamel
which has a polyurethane base. I've vacuumed and mopped.....but they are
knew and I can't tell you how long they will last.
Brenda
where the sun is out in Suquamish, WA during my open studio sale...thank
the goddess!
12/7/01 11:08:28 AM, Naomi Rieder
wrote:
>Can someone suggest what type of waterproof floor covering I
could put on,
>but not attach to, a wooden floor, to protect it from water damage,
etc. It
>would have to be firm enough to be vacuumed.
Carole Rishel on sun 9 dec 01
Do you prime the wood floor first?
Carole Rishel =20
=20
----- Original Message -----
From: CMG
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2001 12:12 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: studio floors
=20
My studio has wood floors. I used cement porch and floor paint, gave it
several coats, and it's lasted great for years. I mop it pretty much ever=
y
day too.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Naomi Rieder"
To:
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 11:08 AM
Subject: studio floors
> Can someone suggest what type of waterproof floor covering I could put =
on,
> but not attach to, a wooden floor, to protect it from water damage, etc=
.
It
> would have to be firm enough to be vacuumed. I've seen photos of studio=
s
> with something that looks right, so I believe it exists. Perhaps rubbe=
r?
> And wide enough so as not to be pieced?
>
> TIA
> Naomi Riede
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________=
___
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclin=
k.com.
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