Joan & Tom Woodward on tue 11 dec 01
Hi All,
My problem is that my 4-year old wedging table is starting to chip. =
I've checked the archives and found no suggestions on repairs. Some =
people recommended using canvas or, in one case, pillow ticking, over =
the plaster. I can't quite envision how one would clean those =
materials, particularly in moving from dark stoneware to white stoneware =
or porcelain. Someone suggested screwing cement sheeting over the =
plaster. Sounds like a relatively simple solution if it works. But is =
my plaster - so far chipping in only one area - fixable? Thanks for any =
thoughts.
Joan in Grand Junction where winter finally came, but we still hiked =
today, even in the snow.
foxpots on wed 21 jan 04
Hi Gals and Guys,
Just thought I'd share my experience on this subject.
My plaster wedging table is bordered by the 2 x 4 frame into which I poured
the plaster. I have stretched pillow ticking over the top and it is stapled
to the 2 x 4 frame. Don't have to clean it.
Regards,
Jean Wadsworth Cochran
http://www.foxhollowpottery.com
Gary Harvey on thu 22 jan 04
Mine is home made, I built a frame of 2X4's lined the bottom with concrete
then filled it with potters plaster. Then I use a canvas like material on
the top to wedge on. Because I learned at Marshall Pottery I have a cutter
wire placed at an angle in the front of the wedging table, so I can cut the
clay multiple times with out stopping. If you get a beat going it can get to
be quite entertaining. GH
----- Original Message -----
From: "foxpots"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 10:19 PM
Subject: Plaster Wedging Tables
> Hi Gals and Guys,
>
> Just thought I'd share my experience on this subject.
>
> My plaster wedging table is bordered by the 2 x 4 frame into which I
poured
> the plaster. I have stretched pillow ticking over the top and it is
stapled
> to the 2 x 4 frame. Don't have to clean it.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jean Wadsworth Cochran
> http://www.foxhollowpottery.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Donald G. Goldsobel on sun 25 jan 04
One additional feature to add: put a tight coil spring at the top of the cut
off wire. It reduces the stressful initial strike on the wire and increases
the life of the wire ten fold or more.
Donald
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Harvey"
To:
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: Plaster Wedging Tables
> Mine is home made, I built a frame of 2X4's lined the bottom with
concrete
> then filled it with potters plaster. Then I use a canvas like material on
> the top to wedge on. Because I learned at Marshall Pottery I have a
cutter
> wire placed at an angle in the front of the wedging table, so I can cut
the
> clay multiple times with out stopping. If you get a beat going it can get
to
> be quite entertaining. GH
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "foxpots"
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 10:19 PM
> Subject: Plaster Wedging Tables
>
>
> > Hi Gals and Guys,
> >
> > Just thought I'd share my experience on this subject.
> >
> > My plaster wedging table is bordered by the 2 x 4 frame into which I
> poured
> > the plaster. I have stretched pillow ticking over the top and it is
> stapled
> > to the 2 x 4 frame. Don't have to clean it.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Jean Wadsworth Cochran
> > http://www.foxhollowpottery.com
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Gary Harvey on mon 26 jan 04
I am sorry I didn't mention the spring. I used an old furniture spring that
came off a chair. Without the spring the wire will break. GH
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald G. Goldsobel"
To:
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: Plaster Wedging Tables
> One additional feature to add: put a tight coil spring at the top of the
cut
> off wire. It reduces the stressful initial strike on the wire and
increases
> the life of the wire ten fold or more.
>
> Donald
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary Harvey"
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 7:21 PM
> Subject: Re: Plaster Wedging Tables
>
>
> > Mine is home made, I built a frame of 2X4's lined the bottom with
> concrete
> > then filled it with potters plaster. Then I use a canvas like material
on
> > the top to wedge on. Because I learned at Marshall Pottery I have a
> cutter
> > wire placed at an angle in the front of the wedging table, so I can cut
> the
> > clay multiple times with out stopping. If you get a beat going it can
get
> to
> > be quite entertaining. GH
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "foxpots"
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 10:19 PM
> > Subject: Plaster Wedging Tables
> >
> >
> > > Hi Gals and Guys,
> > >
> > > Just thought I'd share my experience on this subject.
> > >
> > > My plaster wedging table is bordered by the 2 x 4 frame into which I
> > poured
> > > the plaster. I have stretched pillow ticking over the top and it is
> > stapled
> > > to the 2 x 4 frame. Don't have to clean it.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Jean Wadsworth Cochran
> > > http://www.foxhollowpottery.com
> > >
> > >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> > __
> > > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> > >
> > > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> > >
> > > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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