Carole Fox on fri 14 dec 01
I am having an awful time trying to get hot wax to stick to my =
bisque-ware. I was using straight wax (from candle stubs and some =
leftover candle-making wax), then tried adding a bit of oil to it =
(thinking the wax needed to be softer). That didn't seem to solve the =
problem.
My cone 6 "Porcelain" feels very chalky/ powdery after the bisque and so =
I wash it by rinsing under running water. Then I let the pieces dry for =
a day before waxing. What happens is- the wax starts to pull away from =
the pot, glaze seeps underneath and then I can't clean the bottom fully =
without having to pick off all the wax! Hardly a time-saver. I know that =
I have the option to not wax and wipe the bottoms clean, but I would =
rather not have to waste the glaze. Also, on this light claybody, it is =
difficult to remove the colorant that is left behind after wiping. I =
also know about cold wax, but was hoping to recycle the candle stubs. I =
do like the idea of dipping rather than painting on the wax.
What other things can I try?
Carole Fox
Silver Fox Pottery
Elkton, MD
cfox@dca.net
Dale Neese on fri 14 dec 01
Carole,
try to wax immediately while the bisqueware is still warm from =
unloading. Unload a few warm pots on to a ware board, close the kiln to =
keep the rest of the load warm, bring them to the banding wheel and wax. =
If you have to wear gloves to unload then the pots are too hot. Wax =
flows on like butter. Don't run the bisque under water, use a slightly =
damp rag to remove dust or particles before waxing.
Dale Tex
Jim Mason on fri 14 dec 01
Dear Carole,
It sounds as though the temperature may be a bit on the cool side for the wax
that you are using. It may be useful to raise the temp a bit. Or, we have
found that pure paraffin behaves much better than candle wax. It may be worth
the extra money in the long run.
Best wishes,
Jim Mason in Drizzly, NC
Lexxy on fri 14 dec 01
I have found that reusing any other wax item doesn't work...only parafin and
then at just the right temp. I tried old citronella candles and it kept the
bugs away but made a goppy mess on the pots...all bumpy with indentions that
glaze got into...same with dining candles. I read about adding turpentine
but whew...cleared out my sinuses [got nauseated too] and about started a
fire. No more turp in a hot skillet!!!
This is something I have wondered about too so I will listen to the experts.
I also wonder if bisquing to 06 or 04 makes a difference with wax adhering.
It seems that when I started using 04 I started having more wax problems.
If I had to use wax resist I'd never get anything done.
Lexxey
East GA, Pottery & Gardening
http://www.flummoxed.org/lexxey/index.htm
What other things can I try?
Carole Fox
Silver Fox Pottery
Marek & Pauline Drzazga-Donaldson on fri 14 dec 01
Dear Carol,
grate your candle stubs and pour over white spirit to just over the top. =
You are using too much wax.
Happy potting Marek http://www.moley.uk.com=20
Cindy Strnad on fri 14 dec 01
Dear Carole,
Just heat the wax a bit hotter. I keep my pure
paraffin at 250º F, but if I let it cool, I have
exactly the problem you're describing.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com
Nikki Simmons on fri 14 dec 01
Hi Carole,
Things I have noticed when I wax...
---If I hold the pot in the wax very long, the wax that was starting to
cling to the pot starts to melt into the pores of the pot. So when I dip
the pot into glaze, there is now room for the glaze to get lodged in the
pores.
The solution to that problem was to dip quickly and not hold the pot in the
wax, like I assumed I needed to. I talked to a candle dipper, she said
always dips quick or the candle starts to melt back into the wax.
---I found that the wax needed to be a certain consistency in order to be
easily picked up by the pot--the best way I can describe this is---watery.
Too hot the wax boils, too cold the wax doesn't adhere to the pot with a
nice line.
Sincerely,
Nikki Simmons
nsimmons@mid-mo.net
-----Original Message-----
I am having an awful time trying to get hot wax to stick to my bisque-ware.
I was using straight wax (from candle stubs and some leftover candle-making
wax), then tried adding a bit of oil to it (thinking the wax needed to be
softer). That didn't seem to solve the problem.
Maid O'Mud on fri 14 dec 01
I, too, use left over scraps. I do not add any oil.
Heat the wax until it just starts to smoke - 250 to 275F. To me, this
sounds like what happens when I try to apply the wax before it is good and
hot.
You could also try waiting a bit longer to let the bisque dry after washing.
sam - Maid O'Mud Pottery
Melbourne, Ontario CANADA
____________________________________________
I am having an awful time trying to get hot wax to stick to my bisque-ware.
I was using straight wax (from candle stubs and some leftover candle-making
wax), then tried adding a bit of oil to it (thinking the wax needed to be
softer). That didn't seem to solve the problem.
My cone 6 "Porcelain" feels very chalky/ powdery after the bisque and so I
wash it by rinsing under running water. Then I let the pieces dry for a day
before waxing. What happens is- the wax starts to pull away from the pot,
glaze seeps underneath and then I can't clean the bottom fully without
having to pick off all the wax! Hardly a time-saver. I know that I have the
option to not wax and wipe the bottoms clean, but I would rather not have to
waste the glaze. Also, on this light claybody, it is difficult to remove
the colorant that is left behind after wiping. I also know about cold wax,
but was hoping to recycle the candle stubs. I do like the idea of dipping
rather than painting on the wax.
What other things can I try?
Carole Fox
Marvpots@AOL.COM on fri 14 dec 01
HI:
Ceramic Supply of New York and New Jersey sells a wax resist which is a white
emulsion of Polyvinyl Chloride, I believe. I have used it for years, mix it
with a little food coloring so that I can see clearly where it is applied and
it works very well.
It sounds to me like your pieces are too wet when you apply wax; rather than
soaking the pieces to remove the powdery surface, a damp sponge would do fine
and then the wax resist could be applied promptly without it peeling off.
Let me know how you make out!
Good luck.
Marvin Flowerman
marvpots@aol.com
John Hesselberth on fri 14 dec 01
on 12/14/01 9:14 AM, Carole Fox at cfox@DCA.NET wrote:
> My cone 6 "Porcelain" feels very chalky/ powdery after the bisque and so =
I
> wash it by rinsing under running water. Then I let the pieces dry for a d=
ay
> before waxing. What happens is- the wax starts to pull away from the pot,
> glaze seeps underneath and then I can't clean the bottom fully without ha=
ving
> to pick off all the wax! Hardly a time-saver. I know that I have the opti=
on to
> not wax and wipe the bottoms clean, but I would rather not have to waste =
the
> glaze. Also, on this light claybody, it is difficult to remove the color=
ant
> that is left behind after wiping. I also know about cold wax, but was hop=
ing
> to recycle the candle stubs. I do like the idea of dipping rather than
> painting on the wax.
>=20
> What other things can I try?
Hi Carol,
It sounds like your wax may be melted but too cold. I don't know what
temperature candle wax needs to be, but paraffin (as in jelly-jar paraffin
from the grocery store) does OK for me at 250=B0F. Hotter than that and it
smokes, but cooler it does just what you are describing--it really doesn't
bond well to the bisque surface.
Carefully take your wax up a few degrees in temperature (assuming it is not
already smoking) and see if that helps.
Regards,
John
Web sites: http://www.masteringglazes.com and http://www.frogpondpottery.co=
m
Email: john@frogpondpottery.com
"Art is not a handicraft, it is the transmission of feeling the artist has
experienced." Leo Tolstoy, 1898
Ceramic Design Group on fri 14 dec 01
on 12/14/01 7:14 AM, Carole Fox at cfox@DCA.NET wrote:
> I am having an awful time trying to get hot wax to stick to my bisque-ware. I
> was using straight wax (from candle stubs and some leftover candle-making
> wax), then tried adding a bit of oil to it (thinking the wax needed to be
> softer). That didn't seem to solve the problem.
>
> My cone 6 "Porcelain" feels very chalky/ powdery after the bisque and so I
> wash it by rinsing under running water. Then I let the pieces dry for a day
> before waxing. What happens is- the wax starts to pull away from the pot,
> glaze seeps underneath and then I can't clean the bottom fully without having
> to pick off all the wax! Hardly a time-saver.
Carole:
Don't wash the ware. Doesn't matter if you let them dry for a week or a
month. Its the water. Washing bisque ware before glazing will also have
result in a much thinner glaze application if you dip you ware.
Unload your kiln. Then just wax your pots, and using a sponge, just sponge
the bisque dust off.
Works for me, has worked for over 30 years.
Good Luck
'
Jonathan
--
Jonathan Kaplan
Ceramic Design Group
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs CO 80477
infor@ceramicdesigngroup.net www.ceramicdesigngroup.net
(use PO BOX for all USPS correspondence)
Plant Location
1280 13th Street
Steamboat Springs CO 80487
(use PLANT LOCATION for all UPS, Common Carrier, and Courier deliveries)
SAM YANCY on fri 14 dec 01
I think that the wax is ok as I use the same, but methinks that if you "wet" the piece before applying the wax, the wax will not stick (clay must be bone dry - any residual moisture and the wax will not stick). When I check and clean bisque ware, I clean by rubbing the surfaces with a dry synthetic sponge, dust /blow off the piece, then apply the wax resist. And only then moisten/wet the piece for good glaze adhesion. Finally applying the glaze. At least that is what I was taught and it works for me. Comments?? Sam in Daly City (sunny but 40 degrees today with a 20 mile hour north wind). .
Carole Fox wrote:
> I am having an awful time trying to get hot wax to stick to my bisque-ware. I was using straight wax (from candle stubs and some leftover candle-making wax), then tried adding a bit of oil to it (thinking the wax needed to be softer). That didn't seem to solve the problem.
>
> My cone 6 "Porcelain" feels very chalky/ powdery after the bisque and so I wash it by rinsing under running water. Then I let the pieces dry for a day before waxing. What happens is- the wax starts to pull away from the pot, glaze seeps underneath and then I can't clean the bottom fully without having to pick off all the wax! Hardly a time-saver. I know that I have the option to not wax and wipe the bottoms clean, but I would rather not have to waste the glaze. Also, on this light claybody, it is difficult to remove the colorant that is left behind after wiping. I also know about cold wax, but was hoping to recycle the candle stubs. I do like the idea of dipping rather than painting on the wax.
>
> What other things can I try?
>
> Carole Fox
> Silver Fox Pottery
> Elkton, MD
> cfox@dca.net
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Graeme Anderson on fri 14 dec 01
Carole.
What type of oil did you add to the candle wax? I add kerosene (parrafin)
to my wax. I remember reading in some pottery book that one pint of
kerosene to one household white candle was sufficient for waxing. (But I
don't add that much.) I usually also wax soon after washing the dust off my
pots - the wax sets faster when the pots are cool. But my warm climate may
be vastly different to yours - we've already had 106 deg. so far this
summer.
Cheers. graeme.
primalmommy@IVILLAGE.COM on fri 14 dec 01
Candle stubs should do fine. I add a little beeswax to paraffin. If it is peeling away from the clay surface, though, it isn't hot enough. I use an old electric frypan and find the best setting to be between 320 and 340F. Well ventilated! Don't breathe wax fumes. Good luck.
Kelly in Ohio
_________________________________________________________________
iVillage.com: Solutions for Your Life
Check out the most exciting women's community on the Web
http://www.ivillage.com
MartinDEpstein on fri 14 dec 01
Message text written by Ceramic Arts Discussion List
><
I use 1/4 cup mineral oil to 1 pound of kitchen wax. I use new from the
box wax. I have use candles and they don't melt the same as kitchen wax.=
=
I have also used keroscene and motor oil in kitchen wax but this is not
recommended because it is smelly and dangerous. But it gives a nice flow=
. =
I think the mineral oil alone works almost as well and doesn't smell as
bad.
CMG on fri 14 dec 01
I think you're making this problem bigger then it needs to be A gallon of
wax resist is only around $19.00, add warm water to thin down and you've got
double the amount. This will last for years. I can't imagine trying to melt
wax, add oil, fiddle around when the answer is out there for under $20. I'd
rather spend my time throwing and less time mixing wax concoctions. A damp
sponge will get the dust off. No need to get your bisque that wet and then
wait to dry. A quick swish and you're ready to wax.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Maid O'Mud"
To:
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: Waxing bottoms
> I, too, use left over scraps. I do not add any oil.
>
> Heat the wax until it just starts to smoke - 250 to 275F. To me, this
> sounds like what happens when I try to apply the wax before it is good and
> hot.
>
> You could also try waiting a bit longer to let the bisque dry after
washing.
>
> sam - Maid O'Mud Pottery
> Melbourne, Ontario CANADA
>
> ____________________________________________
>
> I am having an awful time trying to get hot wax to stick to my
bisque-ware.
> I was using straight wax (from candle stubs and some leftover
candle-making
> wax), then tried adding a bit of oil to it (thinking the wax needed to be
> softer). That didn't seem to solve the problem.
>
> My cone 6 "Porcelain" feels very chalky/ powdery after the bisque and so I
> wash it by rinsing under running water. Then I let the pieces dry for a
day
> before waxing. What happens is- the wax starts to pull away from the pot,
> glaze seeps underneath and then I can't clean the bottom fully without
> having to pick off all the wax! Hardly a time-saver. I know that I have
the
> option to not wax and wipe the bottoms clean, but I would rather not have
to
> waste the glaze. Also, on this light claybody, it is difficult to remove
> the colorant that is left behind after wiping. I also know about cold wax,
> but was hoping to recycle the candle stubs. I do like the idea of dipping
> rather than painting on the wax.
>
> What other things can I try?
>
> Carole Fox
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
H.M. Buchanan on fri 14 dec 01
Lexy, Using wax resist is easy if you put a thin piece of sponge (I use a
piece of an ironing board cover) in a shallow pan. Soak it with wax resist
and just press the pot on it. Keep the sponge in a plastic bag between uses.
Judi Buchanan, Heidelberg MS
Lexxy on sat 15 dec 01
oooo...that's such a good idea...never thought of that...glad I showed up
today. I was doing it carefully with a brush or spongestick....will still
do that on lids but for bottoms and edges I'll try this...thanks.
Lexxey
East GA, Pottery & Gardening
http://www.flummoxed.org/lexxey/index.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of H.M. Buchanan
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 10:46 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Waxing bottoms
Lexy, Using wax resist is easy if you put a thin piece of sponge (I use a
piece of an ironing board cover) in a shallow pan. Soak it with wax resist
and just press the pot on it. Keep the sponge in a plastic bag between uses.
Judi Buchanan, Heidelberg MS
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Cindy Strnad on sat 15 dec 01
Well, actually . . .
I often wet my pieces before I wax. Not to remove
dust, but to apply an iron oxide wash for color in
unglazed areas. I dip the outside of the pot in a
bucket of wet iron oxide wash and then, sometimes
even before it's completely dried, I dip it into
the wax. No, I'm pretty sure it's the temperature
and/or the type of wax she's using, though I
suppose it might make a difference if you
positively soaked the pots, like as if you were
washing the dishes.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com
Natalie Winter on sun 16 dec 01
Hi All,
Lots of people seem to be having struggles of one sort or another with
wax resists. We've given up using them, finding latex resist to be a
better method.
For those unfamiliar with this technique, we do it as follows:
First, we find that Copydex latex-based adhesive is just as good as
latex solutions sold specifically for masking, and is available very
widely. It's a water-based solution, non-toxic, and is applied cold so
it's a safe technique, even for children.
The latex is painted on with a brush, one coat is enough. I keep a brush
permanently in the latex since it's hard to clean out of brushes, though
some people suggest dipping the brush in detergent first to stop the
latex from sticking. Personally I'd worry that that might stop the latex
sticking to the pot.
The latex takes a little longer to dry than hot wax, but is quicker than
water-based wax emulsions. It's also a much more effective resist than
these, I find. It repels glaze very well, whether you're using it to
dry-foot a pot or for 'wax'-resist decoration.
The final major advantage of latex is that it peels off! This guarantees
a clean bottom to the pot, and avoids the unpleasant smell that wax
resist creates as it burns off. It also opens the way to some
interesting decorative techniques, as resisted areas can be peeled and
then glazed in a contrasting colour.
I know this is probably 'old hat' to many experienced potters, but I
'discovered' Copydex by accident after twenty years of moaning about wax
resists of all kinds, so I thought it was worth mentioning here.
All the best
Nali.
Natalie Winter in Exeter, SW England
The Dawnmist Website: http://www.dawnmist.demon.co.uk
MartinDEpstein on sun 16 dec 01
My problem with latex is that as you peel it off, the glaze that has
adhered to it puffs into the air. I like latex for certain decorative
effects but for bottoms I like hot wax. Francine
Gail Dapogny on sun 16 dec 01
Carole,
One thing I do is use wax resist (I like Axner's), and then, if it's a
finnicky piece with crevices etc. where it would be hard to wipe off all of
the little beads of glaze over wax, I brush some hot wax over the wax
resist. You're right: the hot wax by itself easily allows glaze to slip
underneath, but that doesn't happen when it's over the wax resist. This
might help.
----Gail Dapogny
>Carole Fox wrote:
>
>> I am having an awful time trying to get hot wax to stick to my
>>bisque-ware. ... What happens is- the wax starts to pull away from the
>>pot, glaze seeps underneath and then I can't clean the bottom fully
>>without having to pick off all the wax! Hardly a time-saver. I know that
>>I have the option to not wax and wipe the bottoms clean, but I would
>>rather not have to waste the glaze. Also, on this light claybody, it is
>>difficult to remove the colorant that is left behind after wiping. I also
>>know about cold wax, but was hoping to recycle the candle stubs. I do
>>like the idea of dipping rather than painting on the wax.
Gail Dapogny
1154 Olden Road
Ann Arbor, MI 48103-3005
(734) 665-9816
gdapogny@umich.edu
Paul Taylor on sun 16 dec 01
Dear Carol
What is the recipe of your porcelain . There is no need to use one that
creates any dust and washing it sounds daft.
I suspect you could be firing the biscuit a bit low but if the porcelain
has a very limited firing range your biscuit temperature has to be just
right as too high you will have trouble getting the glaze on and may have
some bloating if the body gets too healed over and you do not get the two
bites of the cherry when you glaze fire . So only raise the biscuit temp a
few degrees.
To repeat myself - take out some test rings of the porcelain in the
glaze firing, do not worry about bloating its irrelevant for this test. Put
the porcelain raw in a glaze firing. Take the firing a bit slower at first
so the porcelain does not blow. When you get to twenty degrees less than
your biscuit temp take a ring out and take one out ever twenty degrees until
the body starts to stop absorbing glaze then you will know every thing you
need to know with certainty. DO NOT FORGET TO TURN THE ELECTRIC KILN OFF
EVERY TIME YOU TAKE A RING OUT OR A DUSTY PORCELAIN MAY BE THE LEAST OF YOUR
WORRIES. I would do the tests with someone else around to help . Its strange
how easy it is in the heat of the moment to forget to turn the kiln off.
If you are biscuiting properly and the porcelain has not sintered it
confirms my suspicions about cone six in that things tend to happen rapidly
in the firing ,there is not the leeway you get with two cones higher and a
very efficient kiln is a must. I wonder if the extra agro is worth the money
saved.
I have described my wax heating machine using A lIght bulb in a previous
post and described how to glaze with out waxing doing the inside then the
out side or visa versa as in raw glazing. I only wax the galleries of lids
and the feet of plates. This includes the porcelain pots. But I only make
pottery for a living so what do I know.
Regards from Paul Taylor
http://www.anu.ie/westportpottery
Alchemy is the proof that economics is not a science.
> From: Carole Fox
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:14:27 -0500
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Waxing bottoms
>
> I am having an awful time trying to get hot wax to stick to my bisque-ware. I
> was using straight wax (from candle stubs and some leftover candle-making
> wax), then tried adding a bit of oil to it (thinking the wax needed to be
> softer). That didn't seem to solve the problem.
>
> My cone 6 "Porcelain" feels very chalky/ powdery after the bisque and so I
> wash it by rinsing under running water. Then I let the pieces dry for a day
> before waxing. What happens is- the wax starts to pull away from the pot,
> glaze seeps underneath and then I can't clean the bottom fully without having
> to pick off all the wax! Hardly a time-saver. I know that I have the option to
> not wax and wipe the bottoms clean, but I would rather not have to waste the
> glaze. Also, on this light claybody, it is difficult to remove the colorant
> that is left behind after wiping. I also know about cold wax, but was hoping
> to recycle the candle stubs. I do like the idea of dipping rather than
> painting on the wax.
>
> What other things can I try?
>
> Carole Fox
> Silver Fox Pottery
> Elkton, MD
> cfox@dca.net
Ben Friesen on tue 14 sep 04
Hi there Clayarters,
I've got something that's really getting me. I've been dipping the =
bottoms of my pots in hot parrafin wax (heated in an electric frying =
pan) and it's been working not too bad. But how in the world do you wax =
larger platters and that? I've tried the other wax, the brush on type =
you can buy, and it just gets real gummy on me and in the end the glaze =
still gets through, I get mad and there goes another platter down the =
drain. What am I doing wrong? What other methods are there? Are there =
better kinds of brush-on wax out there? Help! Thanks in advance...
I've also been heartily enjoying the throwing and centering thread =
here... just what I've needed and I'm looking forward to getting out to =
the studio and giving all this advice a try......=20
Ben Friesen
Stonepath Pottery
Abbotsford, BC, Canada
dneese on wed 15 sep 04
If you use a hot paraffin wax in an electric skillet without an additive
such as I do, wax your platters, plates, everything while still warm, soon
as they come from a bisque firing. Lay the platter on a banding wheel
covered with a piece of foam rubber. Use a wider brush to apply the wax.
There is Aftosa's wax resist that is nice to brush on also. But you have to
let it really dry before glazing. Usually used to resist over a glaze.
Some may use a small amount of an oil as an additive to the paraffin to
extend the brushing time but I have a hard time dealing with the smell even
with just the paraffin. I use my respirator and have an exhaust fan running
when applying the wax.
Dale Tex
"across the alley from the Alamo"
San Antonio, Texas USA
Laurie Kneppel on wed 15 sep 04
I liked Bill Van Gilder's use of foam brushes to apply the wax that he
showed on the DIY Pottery series. It seemed like it was easier to
control the placement of the wax on flat bottoms and the sides of the
footrings. I know with a regular brush i have a tendency to have the
bristles slip slightly past the designated wax area creating an uneven
wax line. Of course slowing down when applying the wax would probably
help me!
I will be putting the foam brushes to the test this weekend when i sit
down and wax two kiln loads of bisque.
Laurie
Sacramento, CA
http://rockyraku.com
Potters Council, charter member
Sacramento Potters Group, member
Marc Hudson on wed 15 sep 04
Hi Ben,
Any chance you can spray glazes onto your platters? "Cricket" is a good=20
sprayer that uses pint canning jars for the reservoir. . . great for stor=
ing=20
left-over glaze. A piece of paper cut in a circle or plastic tub/bucket =
lid=20
works well to protest the bottom and/or foot from unwanted glaze.
Marc Hudson
Playing with Fire
Espa=F1ola, NM, USA
www.artfulnm.org/hudson.html
---------- Original Message -----------
From: Ben Friesen
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 21:12:34 -0700
Subject: Re: waxing bottoms
> Hi there Clayarters,
>=20
> I've got something that's really getting me. I've been dipping the=20
> bottoms of my pots in hot parrafin wax (heated in an electric frying=20
> pan) and it's been working not too bad. But how in the world do you=20
> wax larger platters and that? I've tried the other wax, the brush on=20
> type you can buy, and it just gets real gummy on me and in the end=20
> the glaze still gets through, I get mad and there goes another=20
> platter down the drain. What am I doing wrong? What other methods=20
> are there? Are there better kinds of brush-on wax out there? Help!=20
> Thanks in advance...
>=20
> I've also been heartily enjoying the throwing and centering thread=20
> here... just what I've needed and I'm looking forward to getting out=20
> to the studio and giving all this advice a try......=20
>=20
> Ben Friesen
> Stonepath Pottery
> Abbotsford, BC, Canada
>=20
>=20
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Rod Wuetherick on wed 15 sep 04
Ben,
Many potters don't dip any of their pots. If you have a good banding wheel
you can put your pot on the banding wheel, and if it is large - a bat then
the pot.
The reason why I made the distinction of a "GOOD" banding wheel is many
people choose to be overly frugal when acquiring this extremely useful
addition to the studio.
Plastic banding wheels shouldn't even be called banding wheels. The Laguna
banding wheels are a bit better but still lack the precision casting and
weight of the banding wheels I have in my studio, which apparently are made
in Japan. When you put a pot on these excellent banding wheels they spin and
spin and spin.
If you have a cheap plastic banding wheel, or any cheap banding wheel for
that matter- you often end up not using them for pots. Cheap banding wheels
are great for sculpture but if you want to actually use one for applying
slips to pot or for waxing you need in my opinion a decent banding wheel.
I'm not sure what these banding wheels are worth stateside but the largest
one I have in my studio is 12" and probably weighs at least 25 pounds and it
was almost $300.00 (Can.) I have had students and even more experienced
ceramists come to the studio and once they use these wheels they buy one for
themselves. Even though they are a bit pricey, a well constructed banding
wheel is worth saving for.
I have waxed platters with 18" diameters this way many times. One gentle
spin. Lay down your brush and away you go. Also when laying wax down on any
ceramic piece you will find that the porous foam brushes are clearly
superior in every way to a standard bristle brush. With a foam brush you can
easily hold it at whatever angle is necessary to achieve the height of line
you want. Less drips - less swearing!
You can pick up foam brushes at Home Depot for very cheap. If you wash them
often they will last a very long time. I'm sure I have waxed thousands of
pieces with one brush.
I personally find when using wax emulsions that they require a fair amount
of watering down. If when you apply your wax emulsion and it looks like dark
honey on a foot then you are probably using too much. Wax emulsions need a
proper drying time to shed the wax. If you're like most people who want to
get the show on the road, and wax and glaze in the same day. You will find
most wax emulsions need much longer drying time than a few hours unless they
are watered down. With whatever product you use some experimenting is
required. My supplier supplies an amazing wax emulsion and I water it down
by at least 30% to get application properties that suit the way I work.
Just as a side note Ben. For very large pieces I have a separate wax
emulsion that I have Alumna Hydrate added. This helps minimize plucking and
contraction cracks that can cause problems on larger pieces.
You spoke of ruining pots with wax. If you make a "boo boo" you can use
clean steel wool, sand paper and some even bisque again. Rarely should you
lose a piece with wax. Time yes the piece no.
I see your in Abbotsford. Green Barn has the banding wheels I mentioned.
Just ask the Jeff for the pricey ones. They are almost always in stock.
Good Luck,
Rod
> Hi there Clayarters,
>
> I've got something that's really getting me. I've been dipping the
> bottoms of my pots in hot parrafin wax (heated in an electric frying
> pan) and it's been working not too bad. But how in the world do you
> wax larger platters and that? I've tried the other wax, the brush on
> type you can buy, and it just gets real gummy on me and in the end
> the glaze still gets through, I get mad and there goes another
> platter down the drain. What am I doing wrong? What other methods
> are there? Are there better kinds of brush-on wax out there? Help!
> Thanks in advance...
>
> I've also been heartily enjoying the throwing and centering thread
> here... just what I've needed and I'm looking forward to getting out
> to the studio and giving all this advice a try......
>
> Ben Friesen
> Stonepath Pottery
> Abbotsford, BC, Canada
Steve Mills on sat 18 sep 04
I am currently a bit behind with my Clayart's, so this relates to a
thread a few days ago.
Robert Fournier passed this onto me: He uses a baking pan which he fills
with candles and then just covers them with light machine oil (known
over here as 3 in 1 or Sewing Machine Oil), so the ratio is nearly
50/50. Once heated and amalgamated it can be kept fluid by sitting it in
a hot water bath, it doesn't fry brushes, is eminently suitable for
decorating, and excellent for waxing the bottoms of large items. The
down side is that the wax, once applied remains pretty soft, so it is a
good idea to glaze your work immediately after waxing.
If you reduce the amount of oil mixed with the wax it needs a little
more heat to mobilise it and sets a little harder.
Either way it beats the commercial *Brush-Wax* into a cocked hat, and
hardly produces any fumes at all.
Steve
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
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