Tamara Williams on mon 7 jan 02
Ok I accidentally left two boxes of slip in my trunk and it got really cold
and the boxes are sorta bulging... so I'm assuming the slip has frozen? Is
it wasted or what can I do to fix it when it thaws? Thanks for the help
Tammy
Richmond, Va
becky schroeder on tue 8 jan 02
studio cleaning??? oh , am i suppose to do that?
becky schroeder
>From: Snail Scott
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: Slip question
>Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 15:59:01 -0800
>
>At 10:41 AM 1/8/02 -0800, Dai wrote:
> >...where the studio cleaning is going at a snail's pace :(
>
>
>Hey, who told you about my studio-cleaning habits?
>(Now everybody knows the horrible truth!) ;p
>
> -Snail
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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Jon Pacini on tue 8 jan 02
Tammy from Richmond wrote:
Ok I accidentally left two boxes of slip in my trunk and it got really cold
and the boxes are sorta bulging... so I'm assuming the slip has frozen? Is
it wasted or what can I do to fix it when it thaws? Thanks for the help
Greetings all---Boy is this a good question! Nobody has asked me this in 30
yrs of getting asked questions. The fact that I'm in Los Angeles might have
something to do with that.
So I called our Crack Technical Staff (Doug) in Ohio, who does
experience such types of foul weather and he says,"It may take some effort
to reblend thoroughly, but the slip will come thru the freezing/thawing
without damage."
Apparently a common occurrence this freezing phenomenon, at least in
some parts of the world.
Jon Pacini
Clay Manager
Laguna Clay Co
In LA where it's 71* today and I'm off to the freezer with a gallon of slip,
just to see for myself, because that's the kind of guy I am.
potterybydai on tue 8 jan 02
Tammy, you should be able to just beat it up to re-homogenize it when it
thaws. If this is casting slip (with a deflocculent), maybe there's more to
it than that......I've never frozen casting slip. Anybody? Does the defloc
make a difference in freezing and thawing?
Dai in Kelowna, BC, where the studio cleaning is going at a snail's pace :(
potterybydai@shaw.ca
"Never put off until tomorrow that which can be avoided altogether."
attributed to Ann Landers
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tamara Williams"
To:
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 6:01 PM
Subject: [CLAYART] Slip question
> Ok I accidentally left two boxes of slip in my trunk and it got really
cold
> and the boxes are sorta bulging... so I'm assuming the slip has frozen?
Is
> it wasted or what can I do to fix it when it thaws? Thanks for the help
>
> Tammy
> Richmond, Va
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Snail Scott on tue 8 jan 02
At 10:41 AM 1/8/02 -0800, Dai wrote:
>...where the studio cleaning is going at a snail's pace :(
Hey, who told you about my studio-cleaning habits?
(Now everybody knows the horrible truth!) ;p
-Snail
SusanRaku@AOL.COM on mon 26 jan 04
Is there any harm in mixing sodium silicate or gum solution into a bucket of
slip?
Does it need to be measured accurately?
Thanks!!!!!!!!!
Susan
Ababi Sharon on tue 27 jan 04
Very dangerous!
Adding sodium silicate just because the names sounds nice might ruin
your work - however if you know what you do can be very interesting.
I add sodium silicate and soda ash (both 3 grams to each K'G of dry
claybody +0.4-0.5 liters of water in order to defloculate it-order to
make it like casting slip (in the way to paperclay).
To:
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/838890/=20
I added a teat I made.
I made a raku ware covered it with raku porcelain slip as described
above.
To the slip I added into one jar copper to the next iron and to the
third cobalt. After I applied them I helped them to swirl one to the
other. =20
Yours=20
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval=A0 Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://ababi.active.co.il
http://www.matrix2000.co.nz/Matrix%20Demo/Ababi.htm
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of
SusanRaku@AOL.COM
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 2:03 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Slip question
Is there any harm in mixing sodium silicate or gum solution into a
bucket of
slip?
Does it need to be measured accurately?
Thanks!!!!!!!!!
Susan
________________________________________________________________________
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John Rodgers on tue 27 jan 04
You gotta be real careful with the sodium silicate. It is a deflocculant
- causes the slip to be very fluid without the addition of water.
Problem is that not enough leaves the clay a bit viscous, and to much
leaves the slip a bit viscous --- and sticky. So when you add silicate,
it's done a few drops at a time for small quantities of slip.
There are two things that are absolute musts for slip.
One, before adding any slip at all, you must adjust the density (used to
be called specific gravity) of the slip. Density of slip clay is always
compared to the desnity of water. Slip with a density of 1.5 is 1.5
tuimes more dense than water. The density of the slip can be calculated
by weighing out equal amounts of water and slip. If you have 1 lb of
water and 1.5 lbs of slip, and the containers are the same size and
weight, then divide the weight of the water into the weight of the slip.
Density = Water (1 lb) divided into Slip (1.5 lb) = 1.5 If density of
1.5 is the desired density, and the density is greater then small
quantities of water are added, and the process repeated, until the slip
is right on the 1.5.
Two: After density is adjusted, then the visconsity is adjusted. This is
done by adding sodium silicate. But you nevver add sodium silicate in
its pure form. Always mix a batch of silicate 50/50 with water. And it
doesn't take much for small batches. Add a few DROPS at a time. Stir
thoroughly between each drop in. A finger test can be applied to see if
you are close. Dip your finger in, and when you pull it out, the slip
should cling, yet two or three drops should run off the end of your
finger. if more that three drops you have two much silicate. If only one
drop, then there is not enough silicate. A better test, and far more
accurate, is to use a viscosimeter funnel. A funnel l with a calibrated
orifice, the funnel is filled with slip and then timed to see how log it
takes tho run out through the orifice.
There is a good bit of discission about all this in the archives at
www.potters.org as well as a booklet put out by Laguna Clay Supply.
Good Luck.
Regards,
John Rodgers
88 GL Driver
SusanRaku@AOL.COM wrote:
>Is there any harm in mixing sodium silicate or gum solution into a bucket of
>slip?
>
>Does it need to be measured accurately?
>
>Thanks!!!!!!!!!
>
>Susan
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
Craig Edwards on wed 28 jan 04
Hello Susan: Hmm. I guess it all depends on how you are going to use the
slip. I've done slip trailing for a number of years and put different
deflocs. in my slip. Darvan worked the best but, so sil works to. It
gives the slip nice working qualities when applying. Don't use the slip
imediately, wait one day, it makes a big difference.
I would mix up a 100-500 gram batch and apply some using your technique,
as a test.
Measuring accurately, never hurts.
If you already have a large bucket of slip mixed, add to a pint measure
to see before you go whole hog.
Cheers,
Craig Edwards
New London MN -18F Brrrrr
SusanRaku@aol.com wrote:
>Is there any harm in mixing sodium silicate or gum solution into a bucket of
>slip?
>
>Does it need to be measured accurately?
>
>Thanks!!!!!!!!!
>
>Susan
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
Lili Krakowski on fri 6 oct 06
Beth:
I am confused. You need to make colored slips, I assume for decorating, not
for casting, and you would like to use the clay
body you are using as your base.
Is your clay body white? Caution : many white bodies contain
talc whose magnesium content can and does affect cobalt blues.
If the body is NOT white you will have difficulties getting the
colors you want.
You do NOT need masses of clay. I do a lot of slip decoration, and 10 lbs
of clay --I use
both kaolin and ball clay in my slips--lasts me the far side of forever.
Ok. You do not need to powder your clay before weighing it out.
So you dry it, weigh out, let us say 80 grams, add 20 grams of your colorant
or whatever
amount you want and THEN add water to make it liquid.
I do my blends wet. But, if you want to do them dry, mix up your batches
as
above, and then weigh out lumps....
Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage
Bunny Lemak on tue 9 jan 07
My friend & I are in a discussion about how to make slip from clay. I
have always just taken a chunk of clay, sumerged it in water and let it
sit for a few days, stirring in between.
She claims that you need a "recipe" an exact amount of clay per water.
Can anyone please tell me the proper way to make slip from clay??!!
And can this method be used with both high & low fired clay (stoneware &
porcelian)?
Thanks for the help.....
Bunny
Lois Ruben Aronow on tue 9 jan 07
I believe both of these are correct. Making slip from your regular clay
body is obviously easiest. Just slake it down - I use clean, dry scrap
rather than a wet block. Mash it up with a hand blender or a jiffy mix
attachment to your drill, and go to town. If you plan on casting with it,
you'll need to add some sodium silicate to it to make it workable. Check
the archives or, my fave, the Chappell.
You can also make your own from a recipe. Through my experiments with bone
china, I have discovered that make slip is NOT like making glaze. The
process is sort of backwards - you work water first and do a lot of slaking.
If you don't have a copy of the Chappell, run and get one. It is my
favorite resource.
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Bunny Lemak
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 12:41 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Slip question
My friend & I are in a discussion about how to make slip from clay. I have
always just taken a chunk of clay, sumerged it in water and let it sit for a
few days, stirring in between.
She claims that you need a "recipe" an exact amount of clay per water.
Can anyone please tell me the proper way to make slip from clay??!!
And can this method be used with both high & low fired clay (stoneware &
porcelian)?
Thanks for the help.....
Bunny
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Catherine on tue 9 jan 07
I don't know if it's the proper way to make slip, but I take some of the
clay I'm working with and place it in my thrift shop $5 blender with some
water and let'r rip. The amount of water is contingent on how runny
(viscous?) the slip should be for my particular use.=0D
=0D
Catherine in gloriously warm Yuma, AZ (Warm, not Hot)=0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: Bunny Lemak=0D
Date: 01/09/07 12:40:46=0D
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=0D
Subject: Slip question=0D
=0D
My friend & I are in a discussion about how to make slip from clay. =0D
=0D
She claims that you need a "recipe" an exact amount of clay per water.=0D
=0D
=0D
Can anyone please tell me the proper way to make slip from clay??!! =0D
Bunny
Snail Scott on wed 10 jan 07
At 12:41 PM 1/9/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>...My friend & I are in a discussion about how to make slip from clay. I
>have always just taken a chunk of clay, sumerged it in water and let it
>sit for a few days, stirring in between...
>She claims that you need a "recipe" an exact amount of clay per water.
>Can anyone please tell me the proper way to make slip from clay??!!
You certainly can do it by softening
a lump of regular clay in water, but
it's much faster to whack out a lot of
thin little slabs, let them dry completely,
THEN put them in water. They will turn
to slip instantaneously. (Oddly enough,
wet clay gets wetter much more slowly
than completely dry clay does; I'll
skip the explanation of why.) Personally,
I just toss my trimmings and scraps in
a bin to dry, then they're all ready to
throw into the slip bucket. No effort
and no lumps; works with any clay,
though coarse clay slakes down quicker.
As for measuring, why? Sometimes I want
runny slip, sometimes I want it stiffer.
I wet it down to suit.
The only use I can think of for precise
measurement of the water content is for
casting slip, where an exact recipe is
truly essential. Could that be what your
friend was thinking of?
-Snail
Jon Pacini on wed 10 jan 07
Greetings All --- Hi Bunny---you wrote "Can anyone please tell me the proper
way to make slip from clay??!!"
Well---it all depends on how you are going to use it. Rhodes has some
formulas for engobes in "Clay and Glazes for the Potter" that could be
considered proper.
But when it comes to preparing the clay you are using for your ware into
slip, the best method once again depends on how you are going to use it.
Ultimatley ---if you've found a way that works for you ---whether its
"proper" or not--- thats usually a pretty good way to prepare it.
Best regards,
Jon Pacini
Clay Manager
Laguna Clay Co
Taylor Hendrix on wed 10 jan 07
Bunny,
Forumulated slips do exist and are formulated for specific purposes.
Maybe you need whiteness, maybe you need different shrinkage, things
like that, but for the most part the other constituents rather than
the water require accurate measurement.
If you only need slip for joining or for smoothing rough texture, slip
made from the body you are using and an amount of water will be just
fine. Might only take sieveing out any grog.
I scoop up all my dry trimmings, put them in a small container, add
water, stir then adjust thickness by adding or removing water. No
clay/water recipe needed.
Now deflocculating or flocculating slip is a whole nother kettle of fish.
Taylor in Rockport, TX who's getting ready to siphon off some terra
sig tonight! Let's hope the rain holds off for this weekend so I can
fire up the pit!
On 1/9/07, Bunny Lemak wrote:
...
> She claims that you need a "recipe" an exact amount of clay per water.
>
>
> Can anyone please tell me the proper way to make slip from clay??!!
>
>
> And can this method be used with both high & low fired clay (stoneware &
> porcelian)?
...
Erik Harmon on wed 10 jan 07
Nothing wrong with that if all you need is to put some handles on some mugs. However if you are going to color it with oxides or commercial stains and want any kind of consistancy you need to weigh out the dry clay and work from %'s.
Catherine wrote: I don't know if it's the proper way to make slip, but I take some of the
clay I'm working with and place it in my thrift shop $5 blender with some
water and let'r rip. The amount of water is contingent on how runny
(viscous?) the slip should be for my particular use.
Catherine in gloriously warm Yuma, AZ (Warm, not Hot)
-------Original Message-------
From: Bunny Lemak
Date: 01/09/07 12:40:46
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Slip question
My friend & I are in a discussion about how to make slip from clay.
She claims that you need a "recipe" an exact amount of clay per water.
Can anyone please tell me the proper way to make slip from clay??!!
Bunny
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
---------------------------------
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Stephanie Wright on wed 10 jan 07
Hi Bunny,
I may be able to help you a little on this. If you are making slip to
stick handles, knobs, etc on your pot, then I do not believe there is a
specific recipe for that.
If you are using slip to decorate your pot, you may want to use a
guideline. According to Steve Mattison, in his book 'The Complete Potter'
(pg 134), if you are using slip to decorate your pot, you should use the
following ratio:
2 1/4 lbs of ball clay
3 1/2 pints of water
He uses dry powdered clay, adds the water, and runs the batch through an
80 mesh sieve. The consistency should be like cream. If you are using
MOIST clay, I would personally start with 1/2 a pint less water, and maybe
a 1/4 lb more clay. You can always add more water if needed. Run it
through the sieve no matter which way you do it. When adding color to the
slip, Mattison says (pg 139):
If using oxides, add -
0.5 - 2% for light shades
2 - 5% for medium shades
5 - 10% for dark colors
If using commercial stains, add 10 - 15%.
The guidelines he gives are based on using a light or white-colored clay.
Hope this helps!
Stephanie
Ben Shelton on sat 13 jan 07
As stated it depends on your use but you do not need to arrive at a final
result from a formula.
If you are casting with the slip you will need to arrive at a certain
specific gravity that varies per slip but is well established and published
all over the web and in print. So lets say you want to make a casting slip
from your clay body. Slaking dry trimmings IS the easiest and fastest way to
slip but it won't make good casting slip because there will be too much
water in it. You will need to add a defflocculant (SP?). Here is where you
will need to undertsand specific gravity to get it right.
To measure specific gravity you must find the mass (sorta like weight) of a
certain volume of the liquid and make a comparison with the mass of the same
volume of water.
I use 100ml because it makes the math easy. 100ml of water should weigh
100g. 100ml of slip will weigh more say 150g. that slip has a Specific
Gravity (SG) of 1.5. If you need a SG of 1.8 you'll have to add more clay.
That might make the casting slip too thick too pour so that is why you add
the defflocculant. It makes the slip less thick so that it can pour with
less water content and higher SG.
Most of the time casting slips are made from recipes because there is much
less trial and error that way. It is just faster to put in the right amount
of the right ingredients and mix it up. It takes less observational testing
to get to the same place but the final product will be the same given the
same ingredients. It is just faster.
I have used plain slips to decorate for years. I usually mix them thick and
brush and swirl them to leave some texture to show through the glaze. At
cone ten in reduction I like to use a redart slip on top of light colored
stoneware under glazes like Temple white. Makes a nice contrast and the
texture brushed in gives nice variation to the colors.
Have fun.
Ben
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