Julie Milazzo on wed 9 jan 02
Hey everyone, I'm writing to hopefully get some information on building a
gas kiln for the studio I'm setting up. I've read a few discussions on this
topic in previous Clayart postings, and have come up with a few main
themes. First, it is okay that I don't have a clue what I'm doing; it seems
that most people felt the same way, but with proper research, it wasn't too
bad. I'm definately ordering Nils Lou's book, The Art of Firing. It seems
that the general opinion is that an arch top kiln is less problematic than
a flat top. Also, fire brick seems to be preferable to fiber. A car kiln
also seems preferable to a regular front loader, and anything is better
than a top loader. Basically, that's it so far. I'm thinking that twenty
five cubic feet should do it. Anyway, if there's anyone out there who has
built anything like what I'm describing, or anyone who's interested in
helping to build one, for the experience and free room and board in lovely
coastal South Carolina, let me know. I'll supply the beer. Hopefully, I'll
feel more comfortable with this after reading Lou's book. I have to admit,
I didn't even know there were different types of burners! This should be
interesting. Also, feel free to disagree with any of the conclusions I've
come up with, but please let me know why. I'm trying to be as objective as
possible, and am really interested in the experiences of others. If you
have a flat top, top loading, fiber kiln, and you love it, let me know why.
Thanks in advance for any help, and keep claying! Julie Milazzo
Michael Imes on wed 9 jan 02
>Hello Julie,
I want to encourage you to go for it. I've built a few kilns now, a
catanary, a couple of sprung arches and a sweetheart of a car kiln. I found
Fred Olson's, "Kiln Book" to be an excellent source of information and
inspiration. My favorite kiln of the one's I've put together was the car
kiln. I used Nils Lou's plan for the car (building it on its track first,
making the floor taper to the back, interlocking floor levels, etc. -this
may sound a bit obscure to you but once you see the plans it becomes more
clear. I found the directions in the "Studio Potter" book, the one
published by the magazine in NH. I then built a sprung arch instead of the
flattop. I also designed an updraft as well as a downdraft damper (into
the chimney). This is a feature that came in handy at times and didn' cost
any more to construct (it does take some figuring out on the design end,
though).
Just a couple suggestions: Give yourself extra space in the
combustion area ( I allowed 6" between
the bagwall and the outside wall); It costs very little to
heat the extra air, will increase the life of
your shelves and is easier on the ware should you ever use
it for bisque firing;
When you decide on a style and size look for shelves first,
(I've always been able to find decent
used shelves or good deals), once you have the shelves
design your kiln around them. If you're
not careful the shelves can end up costing more than the
kiln.
Do your homework first and ask for help when you feel you
need it and you should end up with a
very satisfying experience and a beautiful kiln in which to
fire your work. Best of luck.
Sincerely,
Michael Imes
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