Gary Ferguson on thu 17 jan 02
Another thought on why your underglazes did not meet your expectations is
application thickness. Typically about 3 coats are needed for a solid
color. If only one coat was applied you might get gray instead of black and
off-orange instead of true orange.
Gary Ferguson
www.garyrferguson.com
Debbi Kritsberg on thu 17 jan 02
Hi, just got on your listserv. I'm a novist ceramist
with an underglaze question. I painted a greenware
piece with black and orange underglaze, fired then
coated with clear glaze and fired again, but my piece
came out gray and salmon, instead of black and orange.
What did I do wrong??? Any advice would be greatly
appreciated.
Should I have painted the underglaze on bisque?
Too much clear glaze?
Fire to hot - fired glaze to cone 06?
I've got a lot to learn!!!
Debbi
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Denise Philipbar on thu 17 jan 02
Debbi,
There may be several reasons why this happened. The clay body may be
distorting the color of the underglaze (porcelain gives the truest since
most white stonewares are a bit on the gray side). Also, if your
underglazes are made with mason stains, some of the stains are affected by
zinc in the clear glaze or lack of zinc in the clear glaze. Firing
temperature is the other factor I know about. Black and salmon (which is a
pinkish/orangish sorta red) both fade a bit at higher temperatures (above
cone 5). What type of underglazes are you using? What is your clay body?
At cone 06, they shouldn't have faded.
Hope this helps,
Denise
-----Original Message-----
From: Debbi Kritsberg [mailto:debbi82002@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 7:02 AM
To: CLAYART@lsv.ceramics.org
Subject: Novice with underglaze question
Hi, just got on your listserv. I'm a novist ceramist
with an underglaze question. I painted a greenware
piece with black and orange underglaze, fired then
coated with clear glaze and fired again, but my piece
came out gray and salmon, instead of black and orange.
What did I do wrong??? Any advice would be greatly
appreciated.
Should I have painted the underglaze on bisque?
Too much clear glaze?
Fire to hot - fired glaze to cone 06?
I've got a lot to learn!!!
Debbi
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CAROL SEIDMAN on thu 17 jan 02
Debbie: Some underglazes require up to three coats. What brand were you
using? Were you applying them to white earthenware clay and was the clear
glaze glossy, satin or matte? All those factors could affect your results.
Carol Seidman
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Debbi Kritsberg on fri 18 jan 02
Denise,
Thanks for responding. I used three coats of Mayco
underglass Colbalt black and Coral Red to (greemware)
white clay.
After the first firing I used Envision transparent
gloss glaze. I have a feeling my new endeavor deeper
into the ceramic world is going to entail alot of
trial and error. I appreciate any assistance and
advice. Thanks.
Debbi
>
>
>
>
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--- Denise Philipbar wrote:
> Debbi,
>
> There may be several reasons why this happened. The
> clay body may be
> distorting the color of the underglaze (porcelain
> gives the truest since
> most white stonewares are a bit on the gray side).
> Also, if your
> underglazes are made with mason stains, some of the
> stains are affected by
> zinc in the clear glaze or lack of zinc in the clear
> glaze. Firing
> temperature is the other factor I know about. Black
> and salmon (which is a
> pinkish/orangish sorta red) both fade a bit at
> higher temperatures (above
> cone 5). What type of underglazes are you using?
> What is your clay body?
> At cone 06, they shouldn't have faded.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Denise
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Debbi Kritsberg [mailto:debbi82002@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 7:02 AM
> To: CLAYART@lsv.ceramics.org
> Subject: Novice with underglaze question
>
>
> Hi, just got on your listserv. I'm a novist
> ceramist
> with an underglaze question. I painted a greenware
> piece with black and orange underglaze, fired then
> coated with clear glaze and fired again, but my
> piece
> came out gray and salmon, instead of black and
> orange.
> What did I do wrong??? Any advice would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Should I have painted the underglaze on bisque?
> Too much clear glaze?
> Fire to hot - fired glaze to cone 06?
> I've got a lot to learn!!!
> Debbi
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
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Debbi Kritsberg on fri 18 jan 02
Hi Carol,
Thanks for responding. I used three coats of Mayco
underglass Colbalt black and Coral Red to white clay.
After the first firing I used Envision transparent
gloss glaze. I have a feeling my new endeavor deeper
into the ceramic world is going to entail alot of
trial and error. I appreciate any assistance and
advice. Thanks.
Debbi
--- CAROL SEIDMAN wrote:
> Debbie: Some underglazes require up to three coats.
> What brand were you
> using? Were you applying them to white earthenware
> clay and was the clear
> glaze glossy, satin or matte? All those factors
> could affect your results.
> Carol Seidman
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device:
> http://mobile.msn.com
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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Kathy Steinsberger on fri 18 jan 02
Hi Debbie,
I've been using commercial underglazes to decorate my
low-fired red earthenware pots for about 6 years. I am
no expert, but I do have some experience with
underglazes and hope I can help. Of course, if you are
using a commercial underglaze, calling the technical
help number is good too! My experience is with Amoco
Liquid Underglazes, but some of my procedure may help
solve some of your underglaze problems too.
Before painting, I sand the bone hard greenware
lightly and wipe off all the dust with a slightly damp
sponge or dry brush. (Be sure to use a dust mask and
work outside) I use a stocking or very fine steel
wool. Sanding may not be necessary for your clay...but
it smooths the surface so I don't have underglaze
puddling up and being too thick.
Stir the underglaze well, and strain it through an 80
mesh screen to get out any solid particles and lumps.
Pour enough for your use in a clean container. (A
yogurt cup works for me) The underglaze should be the
consistency of whole or 2% milk. "Skim milk" may be
too thin, "cream" may be too heavy... Stir in a few
drops of water until you have the right amount of
fluidity. This part is pretty important...
Then, brush on the first coat of underglaze, making
sure to use quick, even, smooth strokes. When that
layer is dry, you should brush on another coat. Two or
three coats of underglaze are usually needed to cover
a background color, especially if using white, pink,
orange or yellow. (Orange may be crackly sometimes...
which is cool for coral reefs, but harsh on a coffee
mug!) I can continue brushing on layers of underglaze
as long as the last coat is dry and the underglazes
are just the right consistency (2% or whole milk). For
my flamingo pots, I may have more than 20 layers of
colors painted on a single mug... Too thick and you
get yechy cracking, too thin and you get transparency
and brush strokes showing. You may want to practice on
test pieces first.
If this is too vague, I can describe my own process.
Amend it for your own needs.
If anyone on the list isn't interested, delete now,
this is long...
So, imagine a table with 10 mugs lined across. I start
by brushing the background on every mug, (say,
aqua)going down the line until all 10 have one aqua
base coat. By the time I'm done, the first one is dry
and I repeat the process with the second aqua coat on
Mugs 1 - 10. If I need a third coat, I repeat the
process a third time, starting at Mug 1, continuing to
Mug 10.
Then, I paint on the first decoration, say a bunch of
green leaves. I paint several green leaves on the
first mug, and then the subsequent mugs, 2 - 10. Then,
I start over with the second coat of green on mug
Number 1, and continue for mugs 2-10, until all 10
mugs have two (or three) coats of aqua background and
two coats of green leaves. I like a little bit of
transparency showing through sometimes, so for the
remaining images on a vessel I use 2 coats instead of
three.
The leaves may need several colors on them, so I
continue brushing on more underglazes. I use 2-coats
of each color. I may brush yellow on the right half,
turquoise on the left half, light green in the middle,
red on the tip. I begin with a brush stroke of yellow
on the right half of the leaves of Mug 1, and repeat
on Mugs 2-10, the same way I applied the aqua
basecoats and green leaves. I repeat applying colors
to Mugs 1-10 over and over until the last time then I
paint the second coat of red on the leaf tips.
Sometimes I outline the leaves with black underglaze.
For those, I use only one layer. All of this should be
experimented with since you may have a different brand
underglaze, consistency, color combinations, and even
different artistic genre. Even brush types give a
different look. All of this may affect the final
outcome, but not necessarily in a bad way!
I bisque fire to cone 03 just to be sure most of the
gasses have vaporized from the work, then I glaze fire
with two coats of commercial clear glaze to cone 05.
The biggest problem I have now with the work is firing
the clear glaze without getting some surface blemishes
during the final firing (and cooling). Ugh! Life's
challenging.
Wish I could explain this better... hope it is some
help. Meanwhile, I am compemplating breaking a few of
my hard-earned rules and seeing what happens. Enjoy
your journey! I am mine.
Kathy
--- Debbi Kritsberg wrote:
> Hi, just got on your listserv. I'm a novist
> ceramist
> with an underglaze question. I painted a greenware
> piece with black and orange underglaze, fired then
> coated with clear glaze and fired again, but my
> piece
> came out gray and salmon, instead of black and
> orange.
> What did I do wrong??? Any advice would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Should I have painted the underglaze on bisque?
> Too much clear glaze?
> Fire to hot - fired glaze to cone 06?
> I've got a lot to learn!!!
> Debbi
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
__________________________________________________
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