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hardware quality - kiln element connectors

updated sat 26 jan 02

 

vince pitelka on fri 25 jan 02


> I'm finally getting around to replacing the elements in an old test kiln.
> I've been told that the crimp type connectors that come with the elements
> aren't that great and was going to use split bolt type connectors instead.

Craig -
The split-bolt connectors work great, but be sure to get small ones that
will tighten down firmly on the element pigtails and the power-feed wires.
When I use split-bolt connectors I like to crimp a copper sleeve over the
end of the power-feed wires. Poke that copper sleeve into the split bolt
connector along with the element pigtails and tighten down the bolt. To get
an appropriate copper sleeve you can cut the insulation off any 12-gauge
crimp-type wire terminal and cut the business end off the terminal, just
leaving the sleeve.

Another tip - be sure to let the double-twisted element pigtail extend out
of the kiln wall at least several inches before to the point where you cut
it off and attach the split-bolt connector. Obviously you need to keep them
short enough so that there is no chance of shorting against the metal
housing, but usually that is no problem. If there is a ceramic insulator
where the pigtail comes through the kiln jacket, you can bend the pigtail at
a sharp angle right where it protrudes from the insulator. That will hold
the insulator in place.

If you cut off the pigtail right where it comes through the insulator and
attach the crimp connector or split bolt there, it will overheat and fail
quickly. If you leave several inches of pigtail between the insulator and
the crimp connector or split bolt connector, the connection will operate
much cooler and will last far longer.
Best wishes -
- Vince

Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/