Snail Scott on sun 27 jan 02
At 09:52 AM 1/27/02 -0600, you wrote:
>I've considered mixing my own body, but I don't have the equipment I'd
need...
When I mix my own clay, I just measure the recipe in
20# batches, put it in 4 or 5 gallon buckets, and
dry-mix it. I put water in another bucket, then empty
a dry-mix batch into it and blunge with my drill-
mounted slip mixer. I then add water to the newly-
emptied bucket and add the next batch of dry-mix
into it, then repeat the process until all the batches
are turned into slip. (Wear that dust mask.) Then
I put a plastic bag into that last empty bucket and
pour the slip into it, then repeat the process on
down the line...easier to get the clay out when it's
stiffened up. I put cheesecloth over them and let
them sit around until they turn into clay, then slap
the lids on. (This probably works faster around here
than it would in some more humid localities.) Nice
and plastic! No equipment needed beyond buckets, a
household scale, and a drill mixer. Not as refined
as stuff that's been through a de-airing pugmill,
maybe, but it's never hindered my work. It's also a
great way to make test batches, and the whole mixing
process takes less time than cleaning out some clay
mixers.)
It is more labor-intensive per pound than most
mechanical methods, and less convenient than buying
premade clay, so not even I do this all the time
anymore, but you don't have to buy into the mindset
that every problem needs a high-priced gadget to
solve it.
Equipment? We don' need no steenkin' equipment!
-Snail
Wanda Holmes on sun 27 jan 02
In my local area (Austin to San Antonio, Texas) I have not found any
commercial cone 6 clay bodies. Both major local suppliers offer cone 5
bodies and I've tested them. The smooth white bodies that I'm interested in
are all overfired at cone 6. They show a steep drop in strength at cone 6
and some of them are bloated. I have compromised and I'm now using a cone
10 body, but Ron's & John's book has reminded me of the virtue of a
vitrified body and prompted me to try once more to find a better solution.
I've considered mixing my own body, but I don't have the equipment I'd need
and I'm reluctant to open that whole can of worms - I'd rather concentrate
on developing expertise in glazing. I've come to the conclusion that I'm
going to have to have branch out and find a supplier farther from home.
My questions to the group are: What smooth (no grog or sand), white (or
light colored), cone 6 body can you recommend? Do you buy from a distant
supplier, and if so, how do you manage the shipping costs?
Thanks,
Wanda
Dannon Rhudy on sun 27 jan 02
Re: Cone six clays - have you tried Trinity in Dallas or
Texas Pottery Supply in Ft. Worth? They might have
what you need. If it would be too much to ship, they'd
be within a reasonable distance to go pick it up. Also,
Blackjack Clay?
regards
Dannon Rhudy
At 09:52 AM 01/27/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>In my local area (Austin to San Antonio, Texas) I have not found any
>commercial cone 6 clay bodies. Both major local suppliers offer cone 5
>bodies and I've tested them. The smooth white bodies that I'm interested in
>are all overfired at cone 6. They show a steep drop in strength at cone 6
>and some of them are bloated. I have compromised and I'm now using a cone
>10 body, but Ron's & John's book has reminded me of the virtue of a
>vitrified body and prompted me to try once more to find a better solution.
>I've considered mixing my own body, but I don't have the equipment I'd need
>and I'm reluctant to open that whole can of worms - I'd rather concentrate
>on developing expertise in glazing. I've come to the conclusion that I'm
>going to have to have branch out and find a supplier farther from home.
>
>My questions to the group are: What smooth (no grog or sand), white (or
>light colored), cone 6 body can you recommend? Do you buy from a distant
>supplier, and if so, how do you manage the shipping costs?
>
>Thanks,
>Wanda
>
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>
Marsh Pottery on sun 27 jan 02
Hi Wanda,
Amaco sells all kinds of wonderful clays in 50 LB bags DRY, so you don't
pay for shipping water! 1 50 LB bag makes between 125 & 150 LBs of clay.
It's a bit more work than buying pugged clay, but not as much work as
pugging your own. Check out their website. http://www.amaco.com
Marsha
H.M. Buchanan on sun 27 jan 02
I put my money (literally) on Axner's Rae's Smooth. It throws beautifully
and fits a wide range of glazes even my crystalline ones without crazing.
Shipping from Florida to Mississippi adds about a dime a pound. That's a
bargain to get a good clay. Bad clay now that's expensive ! !
Good clay throws thinner, You'll use less and make up the difference :>)
Judi Buchanan, Flutter-by Pottery, Heidelberg, MS
> My questions to the group are: What smooth (no grog or sand), white (or
> light colored), cone 6 body can you recommend? Do you buy from a distant
> supplier, and if so, how do you manage the shipping costs?
>
> Thanks,
> Wanda
LOGAN OPLINGER on mon 28 jan 02
Dear Wanda,
Just a suggestion, a direction I would take, try doing line blends of your cone 5 and cone 10 clay bodies. Try the following blends:
Clay Test # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
---------------------------------
lb Cone 5 clay 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
lb Cone 10 clay 9 8 7 9 5 4 3 2 1
Each blend will give 10lb. of clay.
If the two bodies are formulated by the supplier from similar raw materials then you may get lucky and find a cone 5/10 blend that will work at cone 6. This would be a relatively easy test, and would give you enough clay in the tests to throw, handbuild, and do glaze fit tests with. If one of the blends works, then you will have what you need from your local supplier. If you buy wet clay, then it is a simple matter to weigh out what you need of each and wedge the two together
Good luck,
Logan Oplinger
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