Ceramic Design Group on sun 27 jan 02
on 1/27/02 4:21 PM, Paul Herman at potter@PSLN.COM wrote:
> Jonathan,
> I read with interest your post on clays, and thank you for sharing your
> knowledge.
>
> you wrote:
>
> There are domestic kaolins that are very plastic and wonderful to work
> with.
> WHen blended together, their working characteristics are to me,.
> superior to
> what I have worked with at cone 10 even with plasticizing admixtures.
> Imported expensive kaolins need not be used. Please remember, that
> Grolleg
> is a non-plastic kaolin.
>
> Could you share with us which kaolins are the good plastic ones? I'm
> interested in different bodies, and just got a new pugger/mixer.
> Paul in Doyle, snowed all day.
Sure.
I would stay away from EPK in a clay body. Here are some better ones: I
would look at Pioneer Kaolin, #6Tile Clay, and Kaopaque.
Good Luck
Jonathan
>
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Jonathan Kaplan, president
Ceramic Design Group
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs CO 80477
voice and fax 970 879-9139
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"Custom design and manufacturing for the ceramic arts, giftware and pottery
industries. Molds, models, and tooling for slip casting, jiggering and
hydraulic pressing. Consultation on clay and glaze formulation, production
systems,firing, and kilns.
Paul Herman on sun 27 jan 02
Jonathan,
I read with interest your post on clays, and thank you for sharing your
knowledge.
you wrote:
There are domestic kaolins that are very plastic and wonderful to work
with.
WHen blended together, their working characteristics are to me,.
superior to
what I have worked with at cone 10 even with plasticizing admixtures.
Imported expensive kaolins need not be used. Please remember, that
Grolleg
is a non-plastic kaolin.
Could you share with us which kaolins are the good plastic ones? I'm
interested in different bodies, and just got a new pugger/mixer.
Paul in Doyle, snowed all day.
Ababi on mon 28 jan 02
EPK
---------- Original Message ----------
>Could you share with us which kaolins are the good plastic ones? I'm
>interested in different bodies, and just got a new pugger/mixer.
>Paul in Doyle, snowed all day.
>________________________________________________________________________
>______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Ron Roy on fri 1 feb 02
As you must all know by now - the Lab at Tuckers - where I supervise the
quality control - tests all the raw clay that come in - including all the
kaolins.
The most reliable - and whitest is EPK.
We use more EPK than any other kaolin and it is used in many stoneware
bodies and of course in the porcelains.
If anyone asked me I would recommend it over any other kaolin - including
Tile 6, Grolleg, Pioneer and English porcelain in throwing clay.
The difference between English clays and North American clays is the amount
of TiO2 - if you want translucency avoid TiO2 as much as possible - use the
English clays like Grolleg.
I use an EPK based cone 10 porcelain from them but the best selling is a
cone 6 porcelain (OK- call it a porcelaneous stoneware) - again EPK based.
keep in mind - porcelain is harder to manage cause of the way it dries - so
you have to be more skilled to work with porcelain - got to be there when
it's ready or else.
We seldom have complaints re cracking and they sell a pile of this stuff -
so it can't be the EPK.
There are tricks to formulating porcelain - bentonite - or some kind of
plasticizer. Epsom salts - especially if there is any Neph Sy present - is
a wise addition.
RR
Ron Roy
RR# 4
15084 Little Lake Rd..
Brighton,
Ontario, Canada
KOK 1H0
Residence 613-475-9544
Studio 613-475-3715
Fax 613-475-3513
Roger Korn on fri 1 feb 02
Hi Ron,
Hadn't considered a flocculent (Epsom salts) with the local porc I'm making from
ground up rock-like chunks of kaolin. Don't want to add ball clay because of the
iron that comes with it. And, we've got plenty of bentonite in the wash across the
road.
Many thanks,
Roger
Ron Roy wrote:
> ...There are tricks to formulating porcelain - bentonite - or some kind of
> plasticizer. Epsom salts - especially if there is any Neph Sy present - is
> a wise addition.
>
> RR
>
> Ron Roy
> RR# 4
> 15084 Little Lake Rd..
> Brighton,
> Ontario, Canada
> KOK 1H0
> Residence 613-475-9544
> Studio 613-475-3715
> Fax 613-475-3513
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
Roger Korn
McKay Creek Ceramics
In AZ: PO Box 463
4215 Culpepper Ranch Rd
Rimrock, AZ 86335
928-567-5699 <-
In OR: PO Box 436
31330 NW Pacific Ave.
North Plains, OR 97133
503-647-5464
Working Potter on sat 2 feb 02
Is there a list of clays and materials [with analysis] that couuld be used as
a jumping off point to develop claybody[s],PLEASE? I am in USA and would
desire ingredients that are widely available, reasonably inexpensive to use
in a body in the appropriate amounts, and as trouble free as is reasonable to
expect.
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