vince pitelka on mon 4 feb 02
> You could take thick fishing wire (the transparent
> plastic kind), and twirl two lengths together to form
> a twist. When you undercut the first time, because of
> the differences in texture of the twist, the wet clay
> wouldn't just suction itself back together as when you
> use a plain wire. I'm sure two cutting wires twisted
> together would also do the trick.
Julie is right on the mark here. A regular cutoff wire leaves very smooth
surfaces which tend to re-join just from the weight of the plate. Some
people like to come back and run the cutoff wire under the plate again after
a few hours, and that works fine. But it is far better to use a twisted
cutoff wire, made either from two strands of fishing line, or from two
standard cutoff wires wound together. You can also use two strands of heavy
nylon thread of the kind that is used to stitch large sails and tarps.
Marine supply stores have it.
After you make such a cutoff wire, take a good look at it using a magnifying
glass. When you look straight at the wire, you will see that as it twists
it is thick, thin, thick, thin, thick, thin, etc. When you pull it through
the clay, the thicker sections leave air channels, and that prevents the
plate from reattaching.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
JJ Adams on mon 4 feb 02
I've been having a problem getting my plates off the bats for
trimming. I undercut them after they are thrown, but the next morning
when I have to take them off the bats for trimming, it's like they have
never been undercut. Running the wire under them at that point is very
difficult. Is there something I can do to make it easier to get them off
the bats once they have dried enough to handle? Thanks so much for any
help you can give me.
Jan
Julie Milazzo on mon 4 feb 02
You could take thick fishing wire (the transparent
plastic kind), and twirl two lengths together to form
a twist. When you undercut the first time, because of
the differences in texture of the twist, the wet clay
wouldn't just suction itself back together as when you
use a plain wire. I'm sure two cutting wires twisted
together would also do the trick.
--- JJ Adams wrote:
> I've been having a problem getting my plates off
> the bats for
> trimming. I undercut them after they are thrown, but
> the next morning
> when I have to take them off the bats for trimming,
> it's like they have
> never been undercut. Running the wire under them at
> that point is very
> difficult. Is there something I can do to make it
> easier to get them off
> the bats once they have dried enough to handle?
> Thanks so much for any
> help you can give me.
>
> Jan
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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>
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> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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Tony Ferguson on mon 4 feb 02
Jan,
I usually run my wire a couple of times under the plate. Some folks also
dip the wire in water, and run it under. I usually run the wire under right
after I throw it and then later after they have set up a bit.
Thank you!
Tony Ferguson
Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku
www.aquariusartgallery.com
218-727-6339
315 N. Lake Ave
Apt 401
Duluth, MN 55806
Ned Ludd on mon 4 feb 02
> I've been having a problem getting my plates off the bats for
>trimming. I undercut them after they are thrown, but the next morning
>when I have to take them off the bats for trimming, it's like they have
>never been undercut. Running the wire under them at that point is very
>difficult. Is there something I can do to make it easier to get them off
>the bats once they have dried enough to handle? Thanks so much for any
>help you can give me.
>
Jan
Hi Jan,
Are your bats nonporous, like some commercial brands, plastibats for example?
The more impermeable and slick-surfaced the bat the more this problem arises.
I don't need it, so I avoid synthetic, non wood-based bats. I use
plywood, Masonite, Duroc, or even sealed particle board.
Meanwhile, I'd still wire-off fresh at the wheel, and do it again
later: the more taut the wire, the better.
best
Ned
Donna Nicholas on mon 4 feb 02
My solution for this problem is to cut circles out of kraft paper or =
the brown paper that groceries are bagged in. Just wet the paper, affix =
it to your bat, and center your clay on top of it, pulling the clay a =
bit past the edge of the paper circle. Once your plate is thrown and =
set up a bit, run a fettling knife under the edge of the foot of the =
plate. By the next day the plate should lift free quite easily. I =
actually prefer to set another bat on top of the plate and overturn the =
'sandwich'. The bat you threw on usually peels off without much fuss. =
If it is reluctant, just carefully run the fettling knife around the =
foot a couple more times.
Donna Nicholas
Marek & Pauline Drzazga-Donaldson on mon 4 feb 02
Dear Jan,
use a HARP - a stretched wire between two uprights (I use an old =
bowsaw). I never cut fresh off the wheel if an item is going to stay on =
a bat. All you do is place the wire on the bat, knee or belly to stop =
the bat sliding, press down and pull along, with an ease up towards the =
end of the pull.
Happy potting Marek http://www.moley.uk.com=20
Marianne Lombardo on mon 4 feb 02
Jan,
I find that if I wipe up all of the excess water from the bat as well as the
water from the excess clay at the bottom it helps. I also take a knife and
make a tiny cut in with the tip of the knive right at the bottom. After all
the clay from that cut has been scraped away from the bat, I use the wire to
cut the pop off of the bat.
If the excess clay at the bottom is quite a bit, and if the base is thick,
after about 4 hours I cut it once more and then it's ok.
> I've been having a problem getting my plates off the bats for
> trimming. I undercut them after they are thrown, but the next morning
> when I have to take them off the bats for trimming, it's like they have
> never been undercut. Running the wire under them at that point is very
MartinDEpstein on mon 4 feb 02
I usually cut them again with the wire before I leave the studio and then=
cover them. If they get really leather hard on the bat they are difficul=
t
to remove. Also I never lift my plates off the bats with my hands. I wa=
it
till the rim is stiff and put a bat on top and flip them. I have learned=
to take plates off the wheel right after throwing but I don't like it.
Francine in Morris Plains where the temperature is dropping like =
a
stone.
Hank Murrow on mon 4 feb 02
> I've been having a problem getting my plates off the bats for
>trimming. I undercut them after they are thrown, but the next morning
>when I have to take them off the bats for trimming, it's like they have
>never been undercut. Running the wire under them at that point is very
>difficult. Is there something I can do to make it easier to get them off
>the bats once they have dried enough to handle? Thanks so much for any
>help you can give me.
>
>Jan
>
Dear Jan;
You did not say what you used to 'undercut' your plates. I find
that a twisted very fine gauge stainless steel wire leaves a beautiful mark
and separates easily. See "Hank's CutOff Wire" on the Kiln & Tools page @
http://www.murrow.biz/hank for an example of what I use. Your dentist may
be able to order some soft-annealed s.s. wire (.011 0r .012 gauge is good)
for you. Just twist a long enough wire over a small brush handle and stick
it in some clay in the middle of your wheelhead, and spin it while letting
the wire turn under your fingertips. Tighter you hold the wire, and the
wider the angle, the tighter the twist. Then fasten the ends to something
for a 'handle'.
I often wait five or six hours before tweaking the rims, and then
cut the piece away from the batt. Never a problem with these fine s.s.
wires. Pretty too!
Cheers, Hank in Eugene
Martin Howard on mon 4 feb 02
Use the twisted wires to undercut.
That leave air gaps below.
The plate shrinks inwards whilst it dries.
By morning it comes of easily.
Martin Howard
Webbs Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
01371 850 423
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
Updated 27th January 2002
ASHPOTS@AOL.COM on tue 5 feb 02
I throw my 14" to 20'' platters and bowls on plaster bats. i just ordered
more 16" bats from Steve Jepson.
I have 3 of his 20" bats ,, the bowls or plates pop off when they are ready
to be trimmed.
The 20" bats are more than 20 lbs,, so its hard to try to flip them off the
bats. I am going to keep the pots no more then 20". It gets to be a hasssle
to trim any bigger.
I am using wood heat in the studio and it seems that the bats dry in a day or
so ,,,ready for 3 more big platters. The big platters are thrown with 12 to
20 lbs of SOFT clay.
This works for me,,,,
This mite not work for everyone ,,,
Steve Jepson is a friend of mine but he is not paying me to say good things
about his system....
Capt Mark Lookout Mountain Pottery
Cindy Strnad on tue 5 feb 02
Dear Jan,
You can do a couple of things. First, if you cut
them twice while they're wet, that will likely
help. Second, if you use a braided or twisted wire
as opposed to a single strand, that should help.
Or you could use my solution (thanks, Dannon and
Vince!) and make yourself some canvas rounds. If
you do this, you just slide the wire under the
canvas. You can either leave the plate on the bat
or slide it off onto your drying shelf. When the
plate has stiffened up enough, peel the canvas bat
away. Just be sure to peel it away as soon as
possible or your plate may crack, just as it would
if you left it uncut on a rigid bat.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com
Craig Clark on tue 5 feb 02
Ok, I'll bite. Where can I get a look at Jepsons bat system. I throw large
platters and they have always been a hassle to get off the bats, especially
the larger, heavier ones. They are not as easy to flip over as they used to
be.
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 6:24 AM
Subject: Re: Getting plates off bats
> I throw my 14" to 20'' platters and bowls on plaster bats. i just ordered
> more 16" bats from Steve Jepson.
> I have 3 of his 20" bats ,, the bowls or plates pop off when they are
ready
> to be trimmed.
> The 20" bats are more than 20 lbs,, so its hard to try to flip them off
the
> bats. I am going to keep the pots no more then 20". It gets to be a
hasssle
> to trim any bigger.
>
> I am using wood heat in the studio and it seems that the bats dry in a day
or
> so ,,,ready for 3 more big platters. The big platters are thrown with 12
to
> 20 lbs of SOFT clay.
>
> This works for me,,,,
>
> This mite not work for everyone ,,,
>
> Steve Jepson is a friend of mine but he is not paying me to say good
things
> about his system....
>
> Capt Mark Lookout Mountain Pottery
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Bud Britt on wed 6 feb 02
Vince,
Is there a certain way to twist these, so that the twist stays in the wire or
fishing line ?
Sincerely,
Bud Britt
Tustin, CA, USA
glassyclass@worldnet.att.net
http://www.homestead.com/glassyclass/
----- Original Message -----
From: "vince pitelka"
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: Getting plates off bats
> > You could take thick fishing wire (the transparent
> > plastic kind), and twirl two lengths together to form
> > a twist. When you undercut the first time, because of
> > the differences in texture of the twist, the wet clay
> > wouldn't just suction itself back together as when you
> > use a plain wire. I'm sure two cutting wires twisted
> > together would also do the trick.
>
> Julie is right on the mark here. A regular cutoff wire leaves very smooth
> surfaces which tend to re-join just from the weight of the plate. Some
> people like to come back and run the cutoff wire under the plate again after
> a few hours, and that works fine. But it is far better to use a twisted
> cutoff wire, made either from two strands of fishing line, or from two
> standard cutoff wires wound together. You can also use two strands of heavy
> nylon thread of the kind that is used to stitch large sails and tarps.
> Marine supply stores have it.
>
> After you make such a cutoff wire, take a good look at it using a magnifying
> glass. When you look straight at the wire, you will see that as it twists
> it is thick, thin, thick, thin, thick, thin, etc. When you pull it through
> the clay, the thicker sections leave air channels, and that prevents the
> plate from reattaching.
> Good luck -
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Crafts
> Tennessee Technological University
> 1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
> Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
> 615/597-5376
> Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
> 615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
> http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
>
Colleen Young on wed 6 feb 02
Hi Bud. One method is to take about 4 feet of nylon fishing line
(l0-20 lbs net), divide that in half and fasten 1/2 of an old closepeg to
the middle. attach peg to wheelhead with clay plug, then holding each end
apart about l8", rotate wheel as as you do that the line will automatically
twist. Fasten end to other half of peg and there you are. Hope this helps.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bud Britt
To:
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: Getting plates off bats
> Vince,
>
> Is there a certain way to twist these, so that the twist stays in the wire
or
> fishing line ?
>
> Sincerely,
> Bud Britt
> Tustin, CA, USA
> glassyclass@worldnet.att.net
> http://www.homestead.com/glassyclass/
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "vince pitelka"
> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 9:05 PM
> Subject: Re: Getting plates off bats
>
>
> > > You could take thick fishing wire (the transparent
> > > plastic kind), and twirl two lengths together to form
> > > a twist. When you undercut the first time, because of
> > > the differences in texture of the twist, the wet clay
> > > wouldn't just suction itself back together as when you
> > > use a plain wire. I'm sure two cutting wires twisted
> > > together would also do the trick.
> >
> > Julie is right on the mark here. A regular cutoff wire leaves very
smooth
> > surfaces which tend to re-join just from the weight of the plate. Some
> > people like to come back and run the cutoff wire under the plate again
after
> > a few hours, and that works fine. But it is far better to use a twisted
> > cutoff wire, made either from two strands of fishing line, or from two
> > standard cutoff wires wound together. You can also use two strands of
heavy
> > nylon thread of the kind that is used to stitch large sails and tarps.
> > Marine supply stores have it.
> >
> > After you make such a cutoff wire, take a good look at it using a
magnifying
> > glass. When you look straight at the wire, you will see that as it
twists
> > it is thick, thin, thick, thin, thick, thin, etc. When you pull it
through
> > the clay, the thicker sections leave air channels, and that prevents the
> > plate from reattaching.
> > Good luck -
> > - Vince
> >
> > Vince Pitelka
> > Appalachian Center for Crafts
> > Tennessee Technological University
> > 1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
> > Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
> > 615/597-5376
> > Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
> > 615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
> > http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Hank Murrow on thu 7 feb 02
>>Bud Britt wanted to know;
>
>Is there a certain way to twist these, so that the twist stays in the wire or
>fishing line ?
>
> > You could take thick fishing wire (the transparent
>> > plastic kind), and twirl two lengths together to form
>> > a twist. When you undercut the first time, because of
>> > the differences in texture of the twist, the wet clay
>> > wouldn't just suction itself back together as when you
>> > use a plain wire. I'm sure two cutting wires twisted
>> > together would also do the trick.
>>
>> Julie is right on the mark here. A regular cutoff wire leaves very smooth
>> surfaces which tend to re-join just from the weight of the plate. Some
>> people like to come back and run the cutoff wire under the plate again after
>> a few hours, and that works fine. But it is far better to use a twisted
>> cutoff wire, made either from two strands of fishing line, or from two
>> standard cutoff wires wound together. You can also use two strands of heavy
>> nylon thread of the kind that is used to stitch large sails and tarps.
>> Marine supply stores have it.
>>
>> After you make such a cutoff wire, take a good look at it using a magnifying
>> glass. When you look straight at the wire, you will see that as it twists
>> it is thick, thin, thick, thin, thick, thin, etc. When you pull it through
>> the clay, the thicker sections leave air channels, and that prevents the
>> plate from reattaching.
>> Good luck -
>> - Vince
>>
>> Vince Pitelka
Dear Bud;
While I am sure that Vince will respond, The way I make them is
worth mentioning again. I get some stainless steel ligature wire from a
dentist or dentists' supply (.010__.014) and twist it twice around a nail.
Then I place the nail crosswise in a small lump of stiff clay in the center
of the wheelhead holding the free ends between index finger and thumb. Turn
the wheel moderately fast and let the wire ends turn under your fingertips.
Maintain around a 90 degree angle between the wires until you get to the
top. Mount the ends on some toggle or other and you have a dandy,
longlasting wire.
Cheers, Hank
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