karen terpstra on wed 6 feb 02
Derek wrote:
> So here is a bit of advise and thoughts if you want it to go trouble =
> free in 2 days. MAKE SURE the floor is flat!!!! or have a plan for =
> dealing with that. If you have lots of time you can fiddle with =
> levelness, but if you are rushing to build a PERMANEMNT kiln...You don't =
> want uneven and you can't afford the time.=20
>
Yes, we will make sure the area is flat and have it ready. I will do the
homework. I won't rush, want it to last at least until I retire. ;)
I assume the roof will be IFB and not hard brick?.....not sure if a hard
=
brick flat top roof is possible?? Nils??
Yes the roof will be IFB and coated....
And lastly I assume you have played with hard brick kilns and realize =
hard bricks don't stack as nice as IFBs. I have never played with =
salt/soda, does is self heal holes/leaks or does it eat away at any =
unevenness?=20
All the bricks are new. So I don't see that as being a problem. I plan
on stuffing any little holes with fiber and Zirconium stuff or ITC.
Working well in the wood kiln.
Sylvia wrote:
> We built the MFT car kiln and I just have one caution come to mind. Are you
> planning to single fire any heavy sculptural work?
>
No. we will not single fire in this kiln. It's just easier for everyone
in an undergraduate setting (especially me) if we stick to the rule: All
pots must be bisqued first! Unless a couple advanced students want to
research single firing and do testing themselves in the Bailey, it will
not happen.
Yes Sylvia, the students are very excited. Things are hoppin around here
this semester. have a new raku kiln too so there is always some kind of
kiln running. Your're not that far from us, stop by.
Happy firings-what ever temperature!
Karen Terpstra
UW-L
Mark Mondloch on wed 6 feb 02
> All the bricks are new.
When we built mine, I used all new bricks and I noticed that there was quite
a bit of size difference between the hard brick and the soft brick that I
used- maybe 1/4 inch each direction. It didn't really matter in my case
since the hard brick was just in the base, but I'm wondering how that would
work out when your inside layer is hard brick and the outside is soft. It
would seem like after a few courses nothing would line up for the header
bricks that tie the two layers together. Maybe the sizes are usually more
accurate though. Just wondering.
Sylvia
---
Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
W6725 Hwy 144
Random Lake ,Wi 53075
HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
Bruce Girrell on wed 6 feb 02
Mark Mondloch wrote:
> When we built [my kiln], I used all new bricks and I noticed that
> there was quite
> a bit of size difference between the hard brick and the soft brick...
My hard and soft bricks were like yours: the hard bricks are smaller by a
small, but significant amount. I built with IFB on the inside and hard brick
on the outside, so the size difference mattered. I simply made my mortar
joints a little larger for the hard brick.
Bruce "some like it hard" Girrell
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