Mark Mondloch on tue 12 feb 02
We have
> hot humid summers and cold wet winters.
Hi Karen,
I agree. I don't consider our wood cured until it's at Least 2 yrs old. I
keep a permanent marker in the wood shed and always write the date on a new
stack of wood when it goes in. I also like to have a variety of wood to
choose from depending on how the firing is going. Want to build up some
coals?- oak pallet wood. Too many coals?- larger pine slabs for awhile. Want
it to fly?- very dry smaller strips.
>Salt chamber was just too glassy
I only started adding salt/soda to the wood kiln after we built the gas
kiln, so it's had maybe 10 salt firings. I've noticed a dramatic drop in the
amount of salt/soda needed for the same effect from the first time- went
from 5 pounds to about 2 pounds. Instead of spraying it in, at ^8 I mix up a
50/50 batch of table salt/baking soda and put a strip down the center of
thick pine slabs which I carefully slide into the firebox. I'd guess that my
way is more of a gradual process for the fuming to take place.
>1st salt rings out and the top was shiny and one side and
bottom had a guncky black material on it.
that's interesting- I have no clue about it. Has anyone else?
Sylvia Mondloch
---
Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
W6725 Hwy 144
Random Lake ,Wi 53075
HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
Tony Ferguson on wed 13 feb 02
Ruth,
got any pics? Would like to see them.
Thank you!
Tony Ferguson
Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku
www.aquariusartgallery.com
Photographic, Web Site, & Marketing Services for Artists
218-727-6339
315 N. Lake Ave
Apt 401
Duluth, MN 55806
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ruth Ballou"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: importance of cured wood/ salting
> I'll be firing my new Bourry box kiln for the 2nd time this weekend. I
fire
> both bisqued (to cone 010) and green pots. I've not noticed any
difference
> in flashing between the two. I don't get a lot of ash deposit on the pots,
> but there is good flashing, due more to the varying atmosphere in the
kiln.
> This time I'll be blowing in some extra ash with a shop vac, so we'll see
> what that does. The pots get the best color from a neutral to light
> reduction atmoshpere, with some periods of heavy reduction near the end of
> the firing. It's a hard brick kiln, so it cools slowly naturally. I also
> spray in soda carbonate. I no longer use salt. Tom Buck explained to me at
> NCECA that chloride is very unstable and will combine with iron to form
the
> more stable ferric chloride. This will especially effect the color of
> shinos that are dependent on small amounts of iron for color. I get much
> better color with the shinos since I've switched to all soda.
>
> I use burners for the preheat and the early part of the firing. I
> transition to wood starting around 1200 F. I've fired with all wood in the
> past and have not noticed any benefit in the final results from using wood
> before red heat. Bourry box kilns fire quite differently from other wood
> kilns. All in all, it's a pretty civilized firing and I do spend a fair
> amount of time sitting down listening to it quietly burn.
>
> Ruth Ballou
> rwballou@home.com
>
>
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Ruth Ballou on wed 13 feb 02
I'll be firing my new Bourry box kiln for the 2nd time this weekend. I fire
both bisqued (to cone 010) and green pots. I've not noticed any difference
in flashing between the two. I don't get a lot of ash deposit on the pots,
but there is good flashing, due more to the varying atmosphere in the kiln.
This time I'll be blowing in some extra ash with a shop vac, so we'll see
what that does. The pots get the best color from a neutral to light
reduction atmoshpere, with some periods of heavy reduction near the end of
the firing. It's a hard brick kiln, so it cools slowly naturally. I also
spray in soda carbonate. I no longer use salt. Tom Buck explained to me at
NCECA that chloride is very unstable and will combine with iron to form the
more stable ferric chloride. This will especially effect the color of
shinos that are dependent on small amounts of iron for color. I get much
better color with the shinos since I've switched to all soda.
I use burners for the preheat and the early part of the firing. I
transition to wood starting around 1200 F. I've fired with all wood in the
past and have not noticed any benefit in the final results from using wood
before red heat. Bourry box kilns fire quite differently from other wood
kilns. All in all, it's a pretty civilized firing and I do spend a fair
amount of time sitting down listening to it quietly burn.
Ruth Ballou
rwballou@home.com
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