Working Potter on thu 28 feb 02
How about explain online??? I, for one, would find detailed blow by blow
description of kiln repairs [or any repairs or servicing-like the deairing
system of a pugmill} a wonderful resource, until we can get a streaming
video,lol.I hired my last kiln element replacement out by a self styled kiln
doctor who blew thru these parts and did a number of them but who took all my
kiln stands with him, supposedly to put wheels on them but he never came
back, and I stupidly paid him in full as I had a pressing engagement at the
time.So NEXT TIME I will try it myself for the first time if FEEL I CAN
FOLLOW WRITTEN DIRECTIONS.
Misty
P.S. Anyone know how to put a metal jacket around a kiln that came banded but
they have corroded for a JenKin approximately 24" high by 24" inside across?
Would a fibeR jacket help insulate it when retrofitting it, it has a sitter
but no frills.It's elements haven't had more than a dozen firings.
Fabienne Micheline Cassman on fri 1 mar 02
At 12:29 PM 02/28/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>video,lol.I hired my last kiln element replacement out by a self styled kiln
>doctor who blew thru these parts and did a number of them but who took all my
Hello Misty,
I was very paranoid the first time I changed my elements, but it turned out
to be very easy technically a bit more challenging physically since I am
short and just about took dive head first to the bottom of the kiln while
changing the bottom element :D
I armed myself with masking tape, a permanent marker, a piece of paper and
something to write on it. I roughly sketched the box and location of each
wire involved in the removal, not all of them, too many for my drawing
skills; it turned out to be an overkill. What was most useful was labeling
each wire end with the masking tape and marker using the same symbol for
those that connected together. Piece of cake :)
Cheers,
Fabienne http://www.milkywayceramics.com/
WARNING: I cannot be held responsible for the above
because my cats have apparently learned to type.
Craig Clark on sat 2 mar 02
If you would like a step by step explanation give me a call. I'll be happy
to explain in whatever detail is neccessary.
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Working Potter"
To:
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: Rewiring elements,a request
> How about explain online??? I, for one, would find detailed blow by
blow
> description of kiln repairs [or any repairs or servicing-like the deairing
> system of a pugmill} a wonderful resource, until we can get a streaming
> video,lol.I hired my last kiln element replacement out by a self styled
kiln
> doctor who blew thru these parts and did a number of them but who took all
my
> kiln stands with him, supposedly to put wheels on them but he never came
> back, and I stupidly paid him in full as I had a pressing engagement at
the
> time.So NEXT TIME I will try it myself for the first time if FEEL I CAN
> FOLLOW WRITTEN DIRECTIONS.
> Misty
> P.S. Anyone know how to put a metal jacket around a kiln that came banded
but
> they have corroded for a JenKin approximately 24" high by 24" inside
across?
> Would a fibeR jacket help insulate it when retrofitting it, it has a
sitter
> but no frills.It's elements haven't had more than a dozen firings.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Arnold Howard on mon 4 mar 02
If you replace one element at a time, you won't need to tape labels
to the element lead wires.
Another element pointer: don't let the element come in contact with
the kiln wash on the bottom of the kiln. The kiln wash can destroy
the new element.
Also, check the element groove with a mirror to make sure it is
free of contaminated spots from the burned out element.
Contamination in the groove can ruin the new element.
You'll also want make sure to cut off the element end that sticks
out past the element connector. I know of cases where the element
end shorted out against the switch box.
Arnold Howard
Paragon
--- Fabienne Micheline Cassman
wrote:
> At 12:29 PM 02/28/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >video,lol.I hired my last kiln element replacement out by a
> self styled kiln
> >doctor who blew thru these parts and did a number of them but
> who took all my
>
> Hello Misty,
>
> I was very paranoid the first time I changed my elements, but it
> turned out
> to be very easy technically a bit more challenging physically
> since I am
> short and just about took dive head first to the bottom of the
> kiln while
> changing the bottom element :D
>
> I armed myself with masking tape, a permanent marker, a piece of
> paper and
> something to write on it. I roughly sketched the box and
> location of each
> wire involved in the removal, not all of them, too many for my
> drawing
> skills; it turned out to be an overkill. What was most useful
> was labeling
> each wire end with the masking tape and marker using the same
> symbol for
> those that connected together. Piece of cake :)
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> Fabienne http://www.milkywayceramics.com/
>
> WARNING: I cannot be held responsible for the above
> because my cats have apparently learned to type.
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
__________________________________________________
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