Maurrean Posner on mon 4 mar 02
Hello all. Another newby here!
I'm looking for wire that can be added to the back of pieces during hand-building which would enable the finished product to be hung. I've heard rumored that jewely wire will suffice, but I want to make sure. I'm sharing a kiln with several others and want to make sure I'm not jepordizing their work or the kiln.
Thanks for any help.
Maurrean
Memphis, TN
Dupre Mr Marcy M on mon 4 mar 02
Maurrean,
I offer two alternatives. If the pieces are small--tile sized--you can make
a depression in the back with a popsicle stick. Imagine the nail you'd hang
the piece on, and push in the popsicle stick, at an angle, to make the
depression that would fit that imaginary nail. No wore necessary, the piece
fires as normal, no worries!
The other method is to make small clay loops on the back of the piece, like
picture wire hangers. Just an upside down "U," fastened with slip to the
body of the piece. Use a toothpick or other small dowel to standardize the
hole in the loop. Fire as usual. When the piece is glaze fired, you have
hanger loops to twist wire to.
Hope this helps,
Tig
Get Dirty!
-----Original Message-----
From: Maurrean Posner [mailto:vmposner@CS.COM]
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 12:00 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: kiln-worthy wire
Hello all. Another newby here!
I'm looking for wire that can be added to the back of pieces during
hand-building which would enable the finished product to be hung. I've heard
rumored that jewely wire will suffice, but I want to make sure. I'm sharing
a kiln with several others and want to make sure I'm not jepordizing their
work or the kiln.
Thanks for any help.
Maurrean
Memphis, TN
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Cat Jarosz on mon 4 mar 02
Hey Maureen... highwater clay carries wire that can be fired though I
personally think you could figure out a way to hang the pots after firing
that would be easier but hey maybe you are on to something and never let me
or anyone else tell you not to do what your doing... anyhow depending on
the temp you fire to he sells 3 sizes of A1 Kanthal Wire 15-21-22 gauge
respectively and .40-.25-.25 cents per foot respectively also has nichrome
wire 18 gauge... at .60 cents a foot... I got some of the 2500 degree wire
for attaching porcelain buttons to my kiln door in gas kiln and it is very
very stiff and hard to bend ... if you'd like some tips on what I do to hang
platters and such after firing feel free to email off list.. glad to share
anything... ps its found on page 56 at the top on highwaters newest
catalogue... if you dont have it you can call (828) 252-6033 or email
clay@highwaterclays.com they also have a web site www.highwaterclays.com
call and talk to one of the excellent staff people about your needs and
firing temps. hope this helps... Cat Jarosz
Snail Scott on mon 4 mar 02
At 12:00 PM 3/4/02 -0500, you wrote:
>I'm looking for wire that can be added to the back of pieces during
hand-building...want to make sure I'm not jepordizing their work or the kiln.
Add the wire after firing!!!
Many people, especially when new to the medium, fall
victim to the belief that to be 'real', all the aspects
of their project must go through the 'ceramic process'
of firing.
NOT!
The parts of your project that need firing, should be
fired. But, perhaps not all of them do. I've done
many wall-hung pieces, mounted for hanging in many
different ways. If a wire is the best for your project,
you could make little clay lugs on the back, and after
firing, attach braided picture-hanging wire across.
Even better, in my mind, is to leave the back of the
piece flat, to avoid the possibility of warping in
the kiln or during drying. Make two holes in the back
of the piece as soon as the piece is leather-hard.
Then, after firing, epoxy two screw-eyes, (or just
ordinary short screws) into the holes. After the epoxy
is set (give it 24 hours) run the picture wire across.
Another option, if your piece is fairly three-dimensional,
is to make a bracket which is integral to the piece.
This can be a horizontal 'lip' of clay which will allow
the whole piece to be hooked onto a nail after firing,
with no need for a wire. Any piece which is more than 1/2"
thick in the upper-middle can be done this way. I try to
make the notch for the nail as wide as possible, to make
up for any misjudgements about the piece's center of
gravity. (A potential problem if it's an asymmetrical
piece.)
For larger pieces, I often epoxy a piece of metal angle
stock across the cavity in back, to help spread the
stress of the nail. This also makes it easier to use
a wall-bracket to hook the piece onto. For heavy work,
this is much safer than a single-nail (or screw) support.
I used to use steel, but I've decided that thick aluminum
is sturdy enough for most of my current work, and it
saves a lot of weight compared with steel.
For very heavy pieces, other considerations come into
play, but I'll skip those for now, since your current
project is not of that sort.
-Snail
Maurrean Posner on tue 5 mar 02
Thanks for your help. I don't think the first suggestion will work cuz the finished piece will be about a foot tall and about 9" wide. Simplicity being one of the finer things in life, I'll try the second suggestion, but don't know that's what I'm looking for either. I should have been more clear. This is a peice that is constructed flat within a shape, like a bowl or a platter, so getting to the back to add the upside down U will be challenging. However, the attraction in the suggestion is that I can make sure what I've done rather than adding the wire in the first stage and hoping for the best.
I think there is something here I can use, just some pre-dawn contemplations that's all!
Thanks again
Maurrean
Dupre Mr Marcy M wrote:
>Maurrean,
>
>I offer two alternatives. If the pieces are small--tile sized--you can make
>a depression in the back with a popsicle stick. Imagine the nail you'd hang
>the piece on, and push in the popsicle stick, at an angle, to make the
>depression that would fit that imaginary nail. No wore necessary, the piece
>fires as normal, no worries!
>
>The other method is to make small clay loops on the back of the piece, like
>picture wire hangers. Just an upside down "U," fastened with slip to the
>body of the piece. Use a toothpick or other small dowel to standardize the
>hole in the loop. Fire as usual. When the piece is glaze fired, you have
>hanger loops to twist wire to.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Tig
>Get Dirty!
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Maurrean Posner [mailto:vmposner@CS.COM]
>Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 12:00 PM
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: kiln-worthy wire
>
>
>Hello all. Another newby here!
>
>I'm looking for wire that can be added to the back of pieces during
>hand-building which would enable the finished product to be hung. I've heard
>rumored that jewely wire will suffice, but I want to make sure. I'm sharing
>a kiln with several others and want to make sure I'm not jepordizing their
>work or the kiln.
>
>Thanks for any help.
>
>Maurrean
>Memphis, TN
>
>____________________________________________________________________________
>__
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Judith Frederick on wed 6 mar 02
Here is another suggestion for your dilema. How about putting a whole thru the piece on a 45 degree angle. Say the piece is 1 inch thick, on the side wall 1/2 inch from the front of the piece and angle towards the center back of the piece. Doing this on both sides will result in a nonvisable means of adding a hanging wire after the piece is fired. Your will have the strength of it being part of the piece as aposed to a piece that was add on.
Just a suggestion, food for thought kind of thing. Good luck with your piece. What ever you do, you want to make sure it will be supported. Hate to see all your hard work coome crashing to the floor. Let us know how it works out.
Judy Frederick
Claycrazy@hotmail.com
http://www.webshots.com/user/watrrlilly/ to see pictures
"Remember, you're never to old to play in the mud!"
>From: Maurrean Posner
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: kiln-worthy wire
>Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 09:02:28 -0500
>Received: from [209.115.31.35] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id MHotMailBE4E40E3007E40043224D1731F2313150; Tue, 05 Mar 2002 08:45:19 -0800
>Received: from LSV (209.115.31.36) by mail.acers (Worldmail 1.3.167); 5 Mar 2002 11:39:59 -0500
>Received: from LSV.CERAMICS.ORG by LSV.CERAMICS.ORG (LISTSERV-TCP/IP release 1.8d) with spool id 185160 for CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG; Tue, 5 Mar 2002 11:37:51 -0500
>Received: from 152.163.225.105 by LSV.CERAMICS.ORG (SMTPL release 1.0d) with TCP; Tue, 5 Mar 2002 08:56:53 -0500
>Received: from Vmposner@cs.com by imo-r09.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v32.5.) id 1.18b.450b7a2 (15708) for ; Tue, 5 Mar 2002 09:02:29 -0500 (EST)
>Received: from netscape.com (mow-m04.webmail.aol.com [64.12.184.132]) by air-id05.mx.aol.com (v83.35) with ESMTP id MAILINID55-0305090229; Tue, 05 Mar 2002 09:02:29 -0500
>From owner-clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG Tue, 05 Mar 2002 08:46:35 -0800
>Approved-By: melpots2@PCLINK.COM
>X-Mailer: Atlas Mailer 1.0
>Message-ID: <480692E0.2709334A.00AD5312@cs.com>
>Sender: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>
>Thanks for your help. I don't think the first suggestion will work cuz the finished piece will be about a foot tall and about 9" wide. Simplicity being one of the finer things in life, I'll try the second suggestion, but don't know that's what I'm looking for either. I should have been more clear. This is a peice that is constructed flat within a shape, like a bowl or a platter, so getting to the back to add the upside down U will be challenging. However, the attraction in the suggestion is that I can make sure what I've done rather than adding the wire in the first stage and hoping for the best.
>
>I think there is something here I can use, just some pre-dawn contemplations that's all!
>
>Thanks again
>
>Maurrean
>
>Dupre Mr Marcy M wrote:
>
> >Maurrean,
> >
> >I offer two alternatives. If the pieces are small--tile sized--you can make
> >a depression in the back with a popsicle stick. Imagine the nail you'd hang
> >the piece on, and push in the popsicle stick, at an angle, to make the
> >depression that would fit that imaginary nail. No wore necessary, the piece
> >fires as normal, no worries!
> >
> >The other method is to make small clay loops on the back of the piece, like
> >picture wire hangers. Just an upside down "U," fastened with slip to the
> >body of the piece. Use a toothpick or other small dowel to standardize the
> >hole in the loop. Fire as usual. When the piece is glaze fired, you have
> >hanger loops to twist wire to.
> >
> >Hope this helps,
> >
> >Tig
> >Get Dirty!
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Maurrean Posner [mailto:vmposner@CS.COM]
> >Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 12:00 PM
> >To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> >Subject: kiln-worthy wire
> >
> >
> >Hello all. Another newby here!
> >
> >I'm looking for wire that can be added to the back of pieces during
> >hand-building which would enable the finished product to be hung. I've heard
> >rumored that jewely wire will suffice, but I want to make sure. I'm sharing
> >a kiln with several others and want to make sure I'm not jepordizing their
> >work or the kiln.
> >
> >Thanks for any help.
> >
> >Maurrean
> >Memphis, TN
> >
> >____________________________________________________________________________
> >__
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> >melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >______________________________________________________________________________
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. Click Here
Maurrean Posner on wed 6 mar 02
Ahah! I love asking people for help.
I can't add the hole, but I can take your advise along with another reply to find my answer. Instead of adding a wire or piece of clay to create a hanger. I can simply make the back thicker than the front, when the front dries enough, I can turn it over and remove an area to create a lip.
Thanks a lot.
Maurrean
Judith Frederick wrote:
>
>
>Here is another suggestion for your dilema.nbsp; How about putting a whole thru the piece on a 45 degree angle.nbsp; Say the piece is 1 inch thick, on the side wall 1/2 inch from the front of the piece and angle towards the center back of the piece.nbsp; Doing this on both sides will result in a nonvisable means of adding a hanging wire after the piece is fired. Your will have the strength of it being part of the piece as aposed to a piece that was add on.
>
>
>
>Just a suggestion, food for thought kind of thing.nbsp; Good luck with your piece.nbsp; What ever you do, you want to make sure it will be supported.nbsp; Hate to see all your hard work coome crashing tonbsp;the floor. Let us know how it works out.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Judy Frederick
>
>
>Claycrazy@hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
>http://www.webshots.com/user/watrrlilly/nbsp;to seenbsp;nbsp;pictures
>
>
>
>"Remember, you're never to old to play in the mud!"
>
>
> gt;From: Maurrean Posner gt;Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>gt;To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG gt;Subject: Re: kiln-worthy wire gt;Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 09:02:28 -0500 gt;Received: from [209.115.31.35] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id MHotMailBE4E40E3007E40043224D1731F2313150; Tue, 05 Mar 2002 08:45:19 -0800 gt;Received: from LSV (209.115.31.36) by mail.acers (Worldmail 1.3.167); 5 Mar 2002 11:39:59 -0500 gt;Received: from LSV.CERAMICS.ORG by LSV.CERAMICS.ORG (LISTSERV-TCP/IP release 1.8d) with spool id 185160 for CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG; Tue, 5 Mar 2002 11:37:51 -0500 gt;Received: from 152.163.225.105 by LSV.CERAMICS.ORG (SMTPL release 1.0d) with TCP; Tue, 5 Mar 2002 08:56:53 -0500 gt;Received: from Vmposner@cs.com by imo-r09.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v32.5.) id 1.18b.450b7a2 (15708) for
>; Tue, 5 Mar 2002 09:02:29 -0500 (EST) gt;Received: from netscape.com (mow-m04.webmail.aol.com [64.12.184.132]) by air-id05.mx.aol.com (v83.35) with ESMTP id MAILINID55-0305090229; Tue, 05 Mar 2002 09:02:29 -0500 gt;From owner-clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG Tue, 05 Mar 2002 08:46:35 -0800 gt;Approved-By: melpots2@PCLINK.COM gt;X-Mailer: Atlas Mailer 1.0 gt;Message-ID: lt;480692E0.2709334A.00AD5312@cs.comgt; gt;Sender: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>gt; gt;Thanks for your help. I don't think the first suggestion will work cuz the finished piece will be about a foot tall and about 9" wide. Simplicity being one of the finer things in life, I'll try the second suggestion, but don't know that's what I'm looking for either. I should have been more clear. This is a peice that is constructed flat within a shape, like a bowl or a platter, so getting to the back to add the upside down U will be challenging. However, the attraction in the suggestion is that I can make sure what I've done rather than adding the wire in the first stage and hoping for the best. gt; gt;I think there is something here I can use, just some pre-dawn contemplations that's all! gt; gt;Thanks again gt; gt;Maurrean gt; gt;Dupre Mr Marcy M wrote: gt; gt; gt;Maurrean, gt; gt; gt; gt;I offer two alternatives. If the pieces are small--tile sized--you can make gt; gt;a depression in the back with a popsicle stick. Imagine the nail you'd hang gt; gt;the piece on, and push in the popsicle stick, at an angle, to make the gt; gt;depression that would fit that imaginary nail. No wore necessary, the piece gt; gt;fires as normal, no worries! gt; gt; gt; gt;The other method
is to make small clay loops on the back of the piece, like gt; gt;picture wire hangers. Just an upside down "U," fastened with slip to the gt; gt;body of the piece. Use a toothpick or other small dowel to standardize the gt; gt;hole in the loop. Fire as usual. When the piece is glaze fired, you have gt; gt;hanger loops to twist wire to. gt; gt; gt; gt;Hope this helps, gt; gt; gt; gt;Tig gt; gt;Get Dirty! gt; gt; gt; gt; gt; gt;-----Original Message----- gt; gt;From: Maurrean Posner [mailto:vmposner@CS.COM] gt; gt;Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 12:00 PM gt; gt;To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG gt; gt;Subject: kiln-worthy wire gt; gt; gt; gt; gt; gt;Hello all. Another newby here! gt; gt; gt; gt;I'm looking for wire that can be added to the back of pieces during gt; gt;hand-building which would enable the finished product to be hung. I've heard gt; gt;rumored that jewely wire will suffice, but I want to make sure. I'm sharing gt; gt;a kiln with several others and want to make sure I'm not jepordizing their gt; gt;work or the kiln. gt; gt; gt; gt;Thanks for any help. gt; gt; gt; gt;Maurrean gt; gt;Memphis, TN gt; gt; gt; gt;____________________________________________________________________
________ gt; gt;__ gt; gt;Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org gt; gt; gt; gt;You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription gt; gt;settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/ gt; gt; gt; gt;Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at gt; gt;melpots@pclink.com. gt; gt; gt; gt;______________________________________________________________________________ gt; gt;Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org gt; gt; gt; gt;You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription gt; gt;settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/ gt; gt; gt; gt;Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com. gt; gt; gt; gt;______________________________________________________________________________ gt;Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org gt; gt;You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription gt;settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/ gt; gt;Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------Join the world s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. Click Here
>______________________________________________________________________________ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/ Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
| |
|
