Cindy Strnad on sun 3 mar 02
For the recipe, see "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" by Ron and John.
This glaze is everything promised (including the part about sticking to the
shelf). In addition to my little glaze tester, I glazed several miniatures I had
sitting around. I wanted them to be pretty and was afraid that, because of their
ultra-thin walls, they wouldn't easily soak up enough glaze. Wrong. They did
just fine. At least they didn't stick too badly, and they are gorgeous. I can't
stop looking at them. I predict that with this glaze alone, my book will easily
pay for itself.
(see notes in separate post on firing specifics)
=====================================
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com
CM Critique discussion forum
http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com/toforum.html
Top Fuel on mon 19 jan 04
I have been running test firings of Waterfall Brown (Mastering Cone 6 Glazes). As predicted the first batch ran onto the shelves. I applied the glaze thinner and cured that problem but am now experiencing small pinholing. I air clean the bisque so I do not believe it is a dust problem.
I fire to 2190F with a 20 minute soak. Then quick drop to 1900F and cool at 180F per hour until 1500F.
This is a beautiful glaze and I would like to master it. Any help would be appreciated.
Bill Kozuck
Lake Winola, Pennsylvania
---------------------------------
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John Hesselberth on mon 19 jan 04
On Monday, January 19, 2004, at 10:05 AM, Top Fuel wrote:
> I fire to 2190F with a 20 minute soak. Then quick drop to 1900F and
> cool at 180F per hour until 1500F.
Hi Bill,
Two things to consider. First your bisque temperature. If it is 06 you
may need to go to 04 with your particular clay body. Second your
cooling rate is still faster than what I have found works best for me
with this glaze. Try 125 from 1900 down to 1500 and see if that helps.
Hopefully others will have some suggestions too. Lots of people seem to
be using it these days.
Regards,
John
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
Lee Love on tue 20 jan 04
Top Fuel wrote:
>I have been running test firings of Waterfall Brown (Mastering Cone 6 Glazes). As predicted the first batch ran onto the shelves. I applied the glaze thinner and cured that problem but am now experiencing small pinholing. I air clean the bisque so I do not believe it is a dust problem.
>
>
>
Hi Bill,
Is the glaze pinholed after you glaze, but before you
fire? If so, you could either bisque at a higher temp or wet sponge
before you glaze.
Also, when working with a runny glaze, you can glaze the lower
part thinner and the upper part thicker. I do this with Irabo.
Or, you can glaze the bottom with a stable glaze and put the runny glaze
at the top.
--
Lee in Mashiko http://mashiko.us
Randy McCall on thu 17 feb 05
Bert
Did you do any special mixing or firing?
Bert Gibson on thu 17 feb 05
I posted pictures of 4 mugs I pulled out of the kiln this week glazed =
with Waterfall Brown. I thought some might enjoy seeing them as they are =
not the typical results people think of. Hope you enjoy.
Bert Gibson
http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/
Roger Korn on fri 18 feb 05
Bert,
This glaze is really beautiful. What clay body did you use? I've been using it on ^5 BMix and Navaho Red, with really great results. Also, different RIO and rutile materials are fun to play with. My best results are with "ceramic rutile" and "rust-bucket RIO" (from the bottom of the rain barrel with old nails and other scrap in it).
Nice work,
Roger
You wrote:
I posted pictures of 4 mugs I pulled out of the kiln this week glazed =
with Waterfall Brown. I thought some might enjoy seeing them as they
are =
not the typical results people think of. Hope you enjoy.
Bert Gibson
http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/
--
McKay Creek Ceramics
In OR: PO Box 436
North Plains, OR 97133
503-647-5464
In AZ: PO Box 463
Rimrock, AZ 86335
928-567-5699
Carol Ryan-Aube on sat 19 feb 05
Bert - I tried to look at your mugs but they weren't on the page you sent us
to. I clicked on the bowl but it only made the bowl larger. What am I
doing wrong?
Carol Ryan-Aube
Palmer Alaska
>http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/
Mike Gordon on sat 19 feb 05
Bert,
My waterfall looks nothing like yours nor does it look anything like
the pictures in the book. My waterfall and waxing brown both had the
same problem. They were coffee bean brown and covered with small
blisters. I'm going to be doing another glaze firing next week and I'm
ready to attempt another series of tests to find out what I'm doing
wrong. Here in San Francisco bay area OM 4 is called Kentucky ball
clay. I did a reduction firing last time, C/6, and think I'll do a
little more oxidation and see if that changes anything. It's almost
like the glaze never matured. Mike Gordon
Earl Brunner on sat 19 feb 05
Carol, click on the little word "pots" at the top of the page......
Earl Brunner
Las Vegas, NV
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Carol Ryan-Aube
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005 8:52 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Waterfall Brown
Bert - I tried to look at your mugs but they weren't on the page you sent us
to. I clicked on the bowl but it only made the bowl larger. What am I
doing wrong?
Carol Ryan-Aube
Palmer Alaska
>http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/
Mike Gordon on sun 20 feb 05
On Feb 20, 2005, at 6:20 AM, dannon rhudy wrote:
> Mike said:
> .....waterfall and waxing brown ....
> Dannon Rhudy said...
> All high iron glazes that I have ever used, including
> iron reds, need to cool slowly or they all look like
> hershey's syrup, or as you say, coffee bean brown.
> The slower they cool, the more iron migrates to the
> surface, altering both the texture and color of the glaze.
Thanks DANNON, I DID a 2 hr. cool down to 1700 d. f. Is that long
enough or should I go slower? Mike Gordon
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
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>
John Hesselberth on sun 20 feb 05
On Saturday, February 19, 2005, at 06:36 PM, Mike Gordon wrote:
> My waterfall looks nothing like yours nor does it look anything like
> the pictures in the book. My waterfall and waxing brown both had the
> same problem. They were coffee bean brown and covered with small
> blisters.
Hi Mike,
Dannon's response is exactly on the money. Waterfall Brown will look
just like you described if it is cooled rapidly. Go to
http://www.frogpondpottery.com/nceca2004/p20.html
for some photos of Waterfall with fast, slow, and very slow cooling.
The bubble/blisters don't show very well in the fast cooled photo, but
they are there. Cooling rate from about 1900 down to 1500 makes a
tremendous difference with this glaze.
Regards,
John
John Hesselberth
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
dannon rhudy on sun 20 feb 05
Mike said:
.....waterfall and waxing brown both had the
> same problem. They were coffee bean brown and covered with small
> blisters. ......
All high iron glazes that I have ever used, including
iron reds, need to cool slowly or they all look like
hershey's syrup, or as you say, coffee bean brown.
The slower they cool, the more iron migrates to the
surface, altering both the texture and color of the glaze.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Maurice Weitman on sun 20 feb 05
At 4:11 PM -0800 on 2/20/05, Mike Gordon wrote:
>Thanks DANNON, I DID a 2 hr. cool down to 1700 d. f. Is that long
>enough or should I go slower? Mike Gordon
Mike,
I don't have the book (or John H's web address) handy, but my
recollection is that MC6G's recommended slow cool happens from 1900 F
down to 1400 at 125 an hour, which would take 4 hours.
Regards,
Maurice in rainy Fairfax, California, where the taste of Barium
(sulfate, not that nasty kind), the flush of an iodine IV, and the
smells of my six hours in the ER earlier this week have all but faded
from memory, leaving me with a bland diet until my pancreas recovers
from an unknown source of inflammation. Happy to be home and kicking.
"Irradiated poop won't make you sick, but it's still poop."
-- Carol Tucker Foreman, Consumer Federation of America
dannon rhudy on mon 21 feb 05
Mike said:
I DID a 2 hr. cool down to 1700 d. f. Is that long
> enough or should I go slower? Mike Gordon......
I don't know. It sounds like either you had some
stuff still coming out of your bisque, and/or it cooled
too fast. Note John H. 's response. He's the man.
I like my iron reds to cool slowly between 1900 and
1500 F, and I note that if I leave them in the kiln until
they are room temp, cool enough to pick up bare handed,
they are the better for it.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Craig Clark on mon 21 feb 05
Mike, I've had some wonderful results with Waterfall Brown, but not
until I got into the slow cool act as well. What has worked for me is a
soak of about thirty minutes at the cone 6, letting the kiln cool down
to about 2100F quickly, and then slowing the cooling rate to about
50F/hr. I do this until the temp as incdicated by the pyometer is around
1750F, which is between five and six hours.
Don't know whether or not this is overkill on the slow cool or not
but I have been getting very good results this way. The glaze pretty
miuch looks like it does on the cover of the book. I'm using a "buff"
colored stoneware body called Buffalo Wallow which matuires at cone 6.
I've also discoved that the glaze is sensitive to applicaton
thickness and to being fired to the correct temp, as all glazes are Past
6 I've had difficulties with it running a bit. Read in the book where
they are describing how they use their witness cones. The tip of the
cone just touching the cone pat as stated really does work best. As
Dannon said, if you are getting the dark coffe type of coloration all
over you are cooling to quickly. Just play with things a bit and see
what works best for your situation.
One other thing to note is that if you are not getting the darker
colors you may actually be underfiring the glaze. I fired it a bit past
cone 5 a few times where the cone 6 witness was just starting to bend
and ended up with an equally appealing glaze that was much lighter. Not
sure what the mechanics of the glaze chemistry are that bring this about.
Hope this helps
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
John Hesselberth on mon 21 feb 05
On Monday, February 21, 2005, at 08:37 AM, dannon rhudy wrote:
> I don't know. It sounds like either you had some
> stuff still coming out of your bisque, and/or it cooled
> too fast. Note John H. 's response. He's the man.
Hi Mike, Dannon,
Cutting off the slow cooling at 1700 is probably too high particularly
for this glaze. It has a very high level of boron for a cone 6 glaze
and is probably still pretty fluid at 1700. I normally start my slow
cooling at 1900 and continue it down to 1400. This is admittedly a
compromise to try to get the slow cooling effect for a variety of
glazes. For the high calcium mattes in our book 1700 may do the job--I
haven't tested that, but they are stiffer, higher melting glazes. For a
very fluid glaze with lots of melter like Waterfall I think you should
slow cool at least down to 1400 or 1500. in fact--and I am speculating
here--for Waterfall you may be able to cool rapidly as far down as 1700
and then slow cool from there down to 1400 and get the effect. And as
Dannon points going going even farther may help. I haven't tested that,
but I plan to. All in all, Waterfall is one of the most fascinating
glazes I have ever seen--there is still a lot to learn about it.
Regards,
John
John Hesselberth
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
Rog Coman on thu 21 feb 08
Greetings John & Ron,
I have been having great success with your Waterfall Brown.
I am using it on a ^5 B-Mix, fired to a very hot ^5 (6 almost touching). =
The batch I mixed is fairly thin in consistency, about like 2% milk. I =
dip the pots in the glaze, a bit heavier at the top than the bottom and =
I have not had any trouble with it running. =20
It is a very dark brown (almost black) and breaks to a lighter brown =
over lips and incised/carved areas - reminds me of a tenmoku. It is =
darker in color than the picture in your book I have glazed mugs, small =
to medium bowls and some small "FuFu" stuff. =20
My customers really like it and I have a hard time keeping it in stock. =
I will be firing several pieces soon and if you would like a few =
pictures, I will be glad to send them to you.
Thanks for "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes". It is a great resource for those =
of us who mid-fire electric.
Best Regards,
Rog Coman
Fish Hook Pottery
Montrose, CO
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