Marvin Bjurlin on wed 6 mar 02
fellow wood firers,
i am an undergrad at SUNY Fredonia NY, who has recently built a train
kiln from brick taken from an old salt kiln. The condition of the
bricks reflect my recent attempts at reaching temperature - poor. its
loose stacked two hard bricks thick in the walls to the basic
proportions of the Neely design. its covered with a homemade castable
material to seal in air and heat. i have a few questions for whomever
may be inclined to answer:
What basic rules of thumb are there involving the stacking configuration
of the pots to promote airflow?
our chimney is currently 12 ft high from the ground and we're planning
on adding 4ft of pipe to increase the draft, any suggestions? our
stacking chamber is 5 ft. long by 2ft wide by 3 ft. tall.
were stoking from one side onto the grate with alot of flame licking out
making this a toasty chore. are there any suggestions for any
alternative way to feed the fire?
are there any basic wood firing principles conscerning the airflow into
the kiln vs. the air flow out?
we burn hard wood rippings from a local pallete company. all of it is
unseasoned green stuff. does this have anything to do with our troubles?
we have a damper located in the chimney above the chamber. The proper
use of this during certain stages in the firing is still a mystery. any
suggestions?
do we need to force air into the firebox?
all helpful hints are much appreciated,
kevin
Fredrick Paget on thu 7 mar 02
Kurt'
Could you please send me the attachment you mention?
Thanks
Fred
>Kevin wrote:
>>fellow wood firers,..............basic
>>proportions of the Neely design. its covered with a homemade castable
>>material to seal in air and heat. i have a few questions for whomever
>>may be inclined to answer:
>
>In response to that I wish to offer a set of Word documents I have written
>relative to the Kurt Wild, Mel Jacobson "Little Train" kiln. Our train is
>quite similar to what Kevin described -- a modification from Neely's
>drawings and incorporating suggestions from Tony Clennell. Since I cannot
>attach them to Clayart messages if anyone wants them please email me
>privately and I will email them to you.
>
>
>Kurt Wild
>River Falls, WI 54022
From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
Kurt Wild on thu 7 mar 02
Kevin wrote:
>fellow wood firers,..............basic
>proportions of the Neely design. its covered with a homemade castable
>material to seal in air and heat. i have a few questions for whomever
>may be inclined to answer:
In response to that I wish to offer a set of Word documents I have written
relative to the Kurt Wild, Mel Jacobson "Little Train" kiln. Our train is
quite similar to what Kevin described -- a modification from Neely's
drawings and incorporating suggestions from Tony Clennell. Since I cannot
attach them to Clayart messages if anyone wants them please email me
privately and I will email them to you.
Kurt Wild
River Falls, WI 54022
email: kurtwild@attbi.com
web site: http://wwwpp.uwrf.edu/~kw77/
most current work: http://wwwpp.uwrf.edu/~kw77/Available.html
Ruth Ballou on thu 7 mar 02
The wood is certainly important, but I think you need to look at the
chimney also. It sounds like you do not have enough draft. Be careful when
you add the pipe that you do not reduce the cross section of the chimney
and that the seal is tight. The flames in a properly burning Bourry Box
should be pulled down by the draft even when you open the door. Also, be
sure to give enough room in the throat area. This is where the great
effects are, but leave some space for the flames to get through.
As for the damper, you'll have to try it out and carefully observe what
happens. If your chimney is, in fact, too short, dampering is not going to
help.
The need to force air into the firebox is a sure sign of poor draft. You
can do it, but you might want to work on the chimney first.
Ruth Ballou
>fellow wood firers,
>i am an undergrad at SUNY Fredonia NY, who has recently built a train
>kiln from brick taken from an old salt kiln. The condition of the
>bricks reflect my recent attempts at reaching temperature - poor. its
>loose stacked two hard bricks thick in the walls to the basic
>proportions of the Neely design. its covered with a homemade castable
>material to seal in air and heat. i have a few questions for whomever
>may be inclined to answer:
>
>What basic rules of thumb are there involving the stacking configuration
>of the pots to promote airflow?
>
>our chimney is currently 12 ft high from the ground and we're planning
>on adding 4ft of pipe to increase the draft, any suggestions? our
>stacking chamber is 5 ft. long by 2ft wide by 3 ft. tall.
>
>were stoking from one side onto the grate with alot of flame licking out
>making this a toasty chore. are there any suggestions for any
>alternative way to feed the fire?
>
>are there any basic wood firing principles conscerning the airflow into
>the kiln vs. the air flow out?
>
>we burn hard wood rippings from a local pallete company. all of it is
>unseasoned green stuff. does this have anything to do with our troubles?
>
>we have a damper located in the chimney above the chamber. The proper
>use of this during certain stages in the firing is still a mystery. any
>suggestions?
>
>do we need to force air into the firebox?
>
>all helpful hints are much appreciated,
>kevin
>
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