MOORE, Robert J. on thu 7 mar 02
Marvin, there was a thread a week or two ago on here about the importance of
dry wood while wood firing. Check out the archives, there are several posts.
On this point alone your temperature should be better using dryer wood. You
may even want to combine cured wood w/ the wood you are using.
Other possible places to get scrap, wood flooring manufacturers, Sawmills,
or anyplace making wood products in volume.
-----Original Message-----
From: Marvin Bjurlin [mailto:bjurlin@FREDONIA.EDU]
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 5:36 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Train Kiln issues
fellow wood firers,
i am an undergrad at SUNY Fredonia NY, who has recently built a train
kiln from brick taken from an old salt kiln. The condition of the
bricks reflect my recent attempts at reaching temperature - poor. its
loose stacked two hard bricks thick in the walls to the basic
proportions of the Neely design. its covered with a homemade castable
material to seal in air and heat. i have a few questions for whomever
may be inclined to answer:
What basic rules of thumb are there involving the stacking configuration
of the pots to promote airflow?
our chimney is currently 12 ft high from the ground and we're planning
on adding 4ft of pipe to increase the draft, any suggestions? our
stacking chamber is 5 ft. long by 2ft wide by 3 ft. tall.
were stoking from one side onto the grate with alot of flame licking out
making this a toasty chore. are there any suggestions for any
alternative way to feed the fire?
are there any basic wood firing principles conscerning the airflow into
the kiln vs. the air flow out?
we burn hard wood rippings from a local pallete company. all of it is
unseasoned green stuff. does this have anything to do with our troubles?
we have a damper located in the chimney above the chamber. The proper
use of this during certain stages in the firing is still a mystery. any
suggestions?
do we need to force air into the firebox?
all helpful hints are much appreciated,
kevin
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Julie Milazzo on thu 7 mar 02
Hey Marv and Kevin, I don't know what pallets are made
of, but I did a few pit firings two years ago, and
noticed a huge difference in result when I switched
from softwood (pine) to hardwood, like cherry or oak.
That switch upped the temperature enough to get the
copper to work it's magic, whereas previously I
couldn't even get glue to burn off of the pieces...
Good luck! Jules
--- "MOORE, Robert J."
wrote:
> Marvin, there was a thread a week or two ago on here
> about the importance of
> dry wood while wood firing. Check out the archives,
> there are several posts.
> On this point alone your temperature should be
> better using dryer wood. You
> may even want to combine cured wood w/ the wood you
> are using.
> Other possible places to get scrap, wood flooring
> manufacturers, Sawmills,
> or anyplace making wood products in volume.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marvin Bjurlin [mailto:bjurlin@FREDONIA.EDU]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 5:36 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Train Kiln issues
>
>
> fellow wood firers,
> i am an undergrad at SUNY Fredonia NY, who has
> recently built a train
> kiln from brick taken from an old salt kiln. The
> condition of the
> bricks reflect my recent attempts at reaching
> temperature - poor. its
> loose stacked two hard bricks thick in the walls to
> the basic
> proportions of the Neely design. its covered with a
> homemade castable
> material to seal in air and heat. i have a few
> questions for whomever
> may be inclined to answer:
>
> What basic rules of thumb are there involving the
> stacking configuration
> of the pots to promote airflow?
>
> our chimney is currently 12 ft high from the ground
> and we're planning
> on adding 4ft of pipe to increase the draft, any
> suggestions? our
> stacking chamber is 5 ft. long by 2ft wide by 3 ft.
> tall.
>
> were stoking from one side onto the grate with alot
> of flame licking out
> making this a toasty chore. are there any
> suggestions for any
> alternative way to feed the fire?
>
> are there any basic wood firing principles
> conscerning the airflow into
> the kiln vs. the air flow out?
>
> we burn hard wood rippings from a local pallete
> company. all of it is
> unseasoned green stuff. does this have anything to
> do with our troubles?
>
> we have a damper located in the chimney above the
> chamber. The proper
> use of this during certain stages in the firing is
> still a mystery. any
> suggestions?
>
> do we need to force air into the firebox?
>
> all helpful hints are much appreciated,
> kevin
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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