Valice Raffi on fri 8 mar 02
Jane,
the foils (gold, copper, silver, etc.) are usually not fired. I have fired
copper leaf at a very low temp (^022) and it was beautiful to my thinking
but it no longer looked coppery, it was metallic blue and some of it was
completely burned off.
The foils are normally applied to a sizing, a type of glue that's brushed
on, then the foil is applied, then burnished.
You might be thinking of lusters. They are usually applied to previously
glazed and fired ware, then re-fired to a very low cone (^021-^018).
Both the foils and the lusters can be applied to bisque, but the look is a
lot different than when they are applied to glazed pieces. On bisque, the
foils have a rougher, more primitive look, and the lusters are matt not
shiny,
Valice Raffi
in Sacramento
Philip Poburka on fri 8 mar 02
When I was doing some of this sort of thing, that is Gold Leafing and
pin-stripeing and vignettes in Gold Leaf, we used what we called 'French
Varnish'.
Also regular Varnishes may be pressed into service with good results.
One would let the Varnish ( which has been applied) get just past 'tacky'
some little bit, and lay the leaf as snail says here, with a fine soft
brush, or even with one's breath and then a brush.
One may run the brush through one's hair some little bit to allow it some
static electricity which will facilitate picking up the 'leaf' with the
brush...it it better done that-a-way than attempting it with the fingers,
and also with as little ambient breeze as possible. Dust is no friend either
in these pursuits.
Your result will be only as nice or as crisp or as definite as the lines or
shapes as had been layed out or drawn with the Varnish. For which a happy
and likely narrow brush will maybe have to be practiced with for a while so
the lines are even and consistant in their width and in the steadyness of
the amount of Varnish deposited.
I used to thin the Varnish with some Turpentine and lay a very 'thin' line
and let it get to the just-past-tacky that I was happy with.
Like that.
Then after things have dried to whatever 'dry' you are going to get in a
reasonable amount of time, as some few days or more say, you may burnish the
leaf with some smooth and hard thing as a Dog's eye Tooth or bit of polished
and very hard wood.
The leaf as had no Varnish under it will sluff off, and the leaf as had the
Varnish under it will remain, and thus do you get your design, pin-stripes
or what as you had layed out for yourself.
Good luck with it!
Phil
Las Vegas...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Snail Scott"
To:
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: gold foil
> At 12:45 PM 3/8/02 -0800, you wrote:
> >...how to apply gold
> >foil...How is the foil applied? Glue? Over glaze or
> >on bisque?
>
> Gold leaf is generally applied over a special-purpose
> gold 'size' or adhesive. These are applied, allowed
> to get tacky, then the leaf is lifted with a soft flat
> brush and laid in place. (It can be cut to fit small
> areas without much waste.) Use the soft brush or a bit
> of silk to smooth the leaf into place. After the size
> has hardened, the gold can be burnished. Size is
> available in many formulas, with different 'open' and
> 'set' times. The size can be applied in patterns as
> well as to whole surfaces; with most materials, the
> leaf will only stick to the size, and the excess can
> be brushed off the unsized areas.
>
> The size can be applied over almost any surface; glaze,
> bisque, whatever.
>
> Note that 'framer's leaf' is seldom real gold, though
> it doeas have its uses. 'Real' gold is available in a
> range of alloys, from 10 to 24, and in a range of
> thicknesses as well. (24k gold has the unique property
> of sticking to itself as well as to the size.) Other
> metal leafs are available as well, including copper,
> silver, aluminum, and more. (True silver leaf will
> tarnish even if a sealant is used; for this reason,
> aluminum is often preferred for 'white metal' effects.)
>
> -Snail
>
>
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Jane Travis on fri 8 mar 02
Hi, I would like some information on how to apply gold
foil to areas of pots. I understand it needs to be
fired twice but I really don't know anything about the
process. How is the foil applied? Glue? Over glaze or
on bisque? I'm a student at MWSC in St. Joe. Any info
would be appreciated. Thanks
JT
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Snail Scott on fri 8 mar 02
At 12:45 PM 3/8/02 -0800, you wrote:
>...how to apply gold
>foil...How is the foil applied? Glue? Over glaze or
>on bisque?
Gold leaf is generally applied over a special-purpose
gold 'size' or adhesive. These are applied, allowed
to get tacky, then the leaf is lifted with a soft flat
brush and laid in place. (It can be cut to fit small
areas without much waste.) Use the soft brush or a bit
of silk to smooth the leaf into place. After the size
has hardened, the gold can be burnished. Size is
available in many formulas, with different 'open' and
'set' times. The size can be applied in patterns as
well as to whole surfaces; with most materials, the
leaf will only stick to the size, and the excess can
be brushed off the unsized areas.
The size can be applied over almost any surface; glaze,
bisque, whatever.
Note that 'framer's leaf' is seldom real gold, though
it doeas have its uses. 'Real' gold is available in a
range of alloys, from 10 to 24, and in a range of
thicknesses as well. (24k gold has the unique property
of sticking to itself as well as to the size.) Other
metal leafs are available as well, including copper,
silver, aluminum, and more. (True silver leaf will
tarnish even if a sealant is used; for this reason,
aluminum is often preferred for 'white metal' effects.)
-Snail
Terrance Lazaroff on sat 9 mar 02
There is a Canadian ceramist, Tommy Zen that the uses gold and silver foil
for all his work. He bisques to a higher temp then applies the size,
followed with the leaf. After he applies the foil he varnishes the entire
pot. It give a good finish.
Terrance
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