mel jacobson on fri 8 mar 02
as david so well said...tricky at best.
but, here is the old nils lou (old theory not nils)
theory.
red turns red during the cooling cycle.
he had me just turn the kiln back on about
1750F. warm the kiln back to 2000 or so.
takes an hour to do this.
then let it cool again through this temp.
(don't get complex...just open the damper a few inches
or so, then turn one burner back on medium, no reduction.)
if you don't get it to turn bright red the first time,
you will get it the second time through.
my red always goes red. no adventure anymore.
almost stopped using it...too boring...always red.
anyway.
now that i use god's method..(hank) of the four hour
soak...they all go red.
i have learned so much on clayart it is hard
to list. my life changes every year in the pottery.
mel
just peeked.
i think it is a perfect, 100percent firing.
i will have a mug to bring to nceca that
will not suck.
and, a nice bright blue one for ron roy.
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
Dan Dermer on fri 8 mar 02
I have to agree this process...
I fired some copper red bowls in my last firing and tried the suggestion
below of turning the gas back on after the kiln had cooled to about 1800
degrees. (I wanted to turn it back on at 1900-2000 as suggested in other
posts, but overslept!). Anyhow, left the burners on low pressure for about
3 hours, during which time the kiln actually cooled from 1800 to 1700
degrees, according to the pyrometer.
The copper red on those bowls was amazing. Beautiful hare's fur like
quality and dark rich color over the entire inside and outside surfaces.
Who says you can't get good reds in an updraft?
:-)
Dan
http://www.geocities.com/dbdermer
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