Brandon Phillips on thu 21 mar 02
The key to this process is speed, there can be no hesitation. When I do it
I dip the pot in the glaze holding it with one hand, then the other hand is
ready to swipe as soon as it comes out of the bucket. You have to know
exactly what you are going to do and where on the pot you are going ot do
it. Like I said, speed and immediacy is the key.
Brandon Phillips
>Whenever I have attempted this type of decoration on pots
>the glaze dries too quickly to accomplish much. We bisque at
>^06. The glazes we have tried are Shinos and iron saturated
>glazes.
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Hank Murrow on thu 21 mar 02
>Whenever I have attempted this type of decoration on pots
>the glaze dries too quickly to accomplish much. We bisque at
>^06. The glazes we have tried are Shinos and iron saturated
>glazes.
Dear James;
I use about 1% Vee Gum in my shinos so that they will hold a
lot more water than normal. They stay fingerable for around 10-20
minutes.
Best, Hank
James Bowen on thu 21 mar 02
Whenever I have attempted this type of decoration on pots
the glaze dries too quickly to accomplish much. We bisque at
^06. The glazes we have tried are Shinos and iron saturated
glazes.
Stay Centered
James Bowen
Boyero CO
jbowen43@yahoo.com
jbowen43@plains.net
" I prefer a man who will burn the flag and then wrap
himself in the Constitution to a man who will burn the
Constitution and then wrap himself in the flag."
Lee Love on fri 22 mar 02
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Bowen"
> Whenever I have attempted this type of decoration on pots
> the glaze dries too quickly to accomplish much. We bisque at
> ^06. The glazes we have tried are Shinos and iron saturated
> glazes.
You might try wiping the bisque with a damp sponge. If the bisque is
wetted, then the water in the glaze doesn't have anywhere to go. But if the
pot is wet, you'll want the glaze to be a little thicker to compensate.
With bottles (closed forms), if you glaze the inside first, the
outside will stay wet longer because the moisture has nowhere to go. I glazed
a small henko (paddled bottle/pilgrim flash) with a test: a Shino type glaze
for the last noborigama, inside first, and it was not completely dry on the
outside next day. It was black with carbon trapping. I know Mel likes
black shino, but I'm not sure how the Japanese like it. :^)
At home in St. Paul, I bisqued at 012 to save energy (learned this from a
Japanese potter friend) and if you sponge the bisque before you glaze, there is
no problem. Also, I had better results with Shinos that are fired at a lower
bisque. I figure you are not locking up/breaking down those soluables in the
clay that react at 012 with the soda ash during the glaze firing.
Some of the bisque, bisqued in the noborigama, is much lower
than 012. It is fired until red heat is reached at the peep hole which means
that other parts of the large chambers are not so hot. My first couple times
sponging bisque from the noborigama found me having matchawan breaking in my
hands. I'm talking about pieces that sell for thousands when they are
finished! All Sensei did was tell the head deshi to go find another one.
Also, I have pre-dipped work that is going to be Shino glazed in soda
ash solution (to help with carbon trapping) and this will help keep the pot wet
longer. Be careful with soda ash, it is a base and will turn the oil in your
hands into soap if you are not careful. (I've always rinsed my hands right
away and have not had problems.) But you might want to wear rubber gloves.
It also helps to be quick. :^)
--
Lee In Mashiko Ikiru@kami.com
"Far too many of us use our hands like inert flippers." -Philip Rawson
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