Corinna L. Hendrix on tue 26 mar 02
Hello,
I am new to this list but hope that it proves to be helpful. I just =
bought a Cress Kiln. It is rather old I believe and is a Model K. I =
have several questions about this kiln because it is different than the =
ones that I have used before. First of all, I put the kiln in my garage =
which seems to be a good place, according to various people I've talked =
to. There was a question raised however about the dangers of firing the =
kiln with my water heater in the garage as well. Should there be a =
concern as to the fumes igniting due to the pilot light of the water =
heater or is this just overprecaution?
Okay, my next questions deal with the kiln itself. I believe this kiln =
is from 1985 or 86 and has two dials on the panel, one on top and one on =
the bottom. Both dials are identical and have numbers ranging from low =
to high. There isn't a timer than I can see, unless one of these dials =
is suppose to be the timer. The kiln didn't come with a manuel, I =
bought it secondhand. Would anybody be familiar with this kiln or be =
able to tell me how to run it?
I would appreciate any help I could get!
Thanks,
Corinna
Corinna L. Hendrix on wed 27 mar 02
Even if I have the prongs to hold a bar cone?
Corinna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Judith Frederick"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: Kiln firing and water heater
> A lot if the older kilns were just witness cone kilns. I have an old one
> with just two switches for on and off. You need to buy witness cones and
> watch for them to melt at the cone you chose to fire your ware.
> Judy
>
> >From: "Corinna L. Hendrix"
> >Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> >To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> >Subject: Kiln firing and water heater
> >Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 09:26:58 -0800
> >
> >Hello,
> >
> >I am new to this list but hope that it proves to be helpful. I just
bought
> >a Cress Kiln. It is rather old I believe and is a Model K. I have
several
> >questions about this kiln because it is different than the ones that I
have
> >used before. First of all, I put the kiln in my garage which seems to be
a
> >good place, according to various people I've talked to. There was a
> >question raised however about the dangers of firing the kiln with my
water
> >heater in the garage as well. Should there be a concern as to the fumes
> >igniting due to the pilot light of the water heater or is this just
> >overprecaution?
> >
> >Okay, my next questions deal with the kiln itself. I believe this kiln
is
> >from 1985 or 86 and has two dials on the panel, one on top and one on the
> >bottom. Both dials are identical and have numbers ranging from low to
> >high. There isn't a timer than I can see, unless one of these dials is
> >suppose to be the timer. The kiln didn't come with a manuel, I bought it
> >secondhand. Would anybody be familiar with this kiln or be able to tell
me
> >how to run it?
> >
> >I would appreciate any help I could get!
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Corinna
> >
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> >melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Arnold Howard on thu 28 mar 02
Corinna, the prongs you refer to are part of the Dawson Kiln
Sitter.
You should not fire your kiln until you have read detailed
instructions on the Dawson Kiln Sitter. You need to know how to
calibrate it with a firing gauge, how to load it with the small
cone, and how to adjust it. It is a very simple, reliable device
that shuts the kiln off when the small cone bends. But if used
improperly, it can overfire your kiln.
Misunderstanding the Kiln Sitter has caused a lot of frustration.
One time a customer wanted me to fly to her home in North Carolina
to pick up her kiln and take it back. The problem was only a Kiln
Sitter out of adjustment. Another customer thought her heating
elements were bad. Again, it was only a Kiln Sitter with a bent
rod.
Another essential is pyrometric cones. You should read about them
in detail before firing your kiln.
A little study of kilns goes a long way in prolonging the life of
your kiln and improving firing results. I would call Cress
(800-423-4584) for the manual.
It is okay to put the kiln in the garage with a water heater
provided the water heater is in good condition. It is important to
remove flammable materials, the lawn mower, and your car from the
garage while the kiln is firing. Also, keep the kiln at least 12"
away from walls.
Is the kiln on a stand? It should not be directly on the floor or
on cinder blocks.
With best wishes,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Ind. Inc.
--- "Corinna L. Hendrix" wrote:
> Even if I have the prongs to hold a bar cone?
>
> Corinna
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Judith Frederick"
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 5:22 PM
> Subject: Re: Kiln firing and water heater
>
>
> > A lot if the older kilns were just witness cone kilns. I have
> an old one
> > with just two switches for on and off. You need to buy witness
> cones and
> > watch for them to melt at the cone you chose to fire your ware.
> > Judy
> >
> > >From: "Corinna L. Hendrix"
> > >Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>
> > >To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> > >Subject: Kiln firing and water heater
> > >Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 09:26:58 -0800
> > >
> > >Hello,
> > >
> > >I am new to this list but hope that it proves to be helpful.
> I just
> bought
> > >a Cress Kiln. It is rather old I believe and is a Model K. I
> have
> several
> > >questions about this kiln because it is different than the
> ones that I
> have
> > >used before. First of all, I put the kiln in my garage which
> seems to be
> a
> > >good place, according to various people I've talked to. There
> was a
> > >question raised however about the dangers of firing the kiln
> with my
> water
> > >heater in the garage as well. Should there be a concern as to
> the fumes
> > >igniting due to the pilot light of the water heater or is this
> just
> > >overprecaution?
> > >
> > >Okay, my next questions deal with the kiln itself. I believe
> this kiln
> is
> > >from 1985 or 86 and has two dials on the panel, one on top and
> one on the
> > >bottom. Both dials are identical and have numbers ranging
> from low to
> > >high. There isn't a timer than I can see, unless one of these
> dials is
> > >suppose to be the timer. The kiln didn't come with a manuel,
> I bought it
> > >secondhand. Would anybody be familiar with this kiln or be
> able to tell
> me
> > >how to run it?
> > >
> > >I would appreciate any help I could get!
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >Corinna
> > >
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards®
http://movies.yahoo.com/
Snail Scott on thu 28 mar 02
>From: "Corinna L. Hendrix"
>Should there be a concern as to the fumes
>igniting due to the pilot light of the water heater or is this just
>overprecaution?
Electric kiln fumes are toxic, but not explosive.
I wouldn't worry.
>...Would anybody be familiar with this kiln or be able to tell me
>how to run it?
What you described are called 'infinite' switches. (The kind that
click while firing - it's normal.) You said you have a kiln-sitter,
but no timer, right?
Timers and kiln-sitters are both just species of fail-safe devices;
a kiln will work just fine without either of them. The lack of
them just means you need to pay attention when you fire, but we
should all be doing that anyway. You should always have a set of
witness cones in the kiln for each firing, and use them to determine
the correct shutoff temperature. The kiln-sitter is there to save
the kiln and ware in case you fall asleep, or get kidnapped by
aliens, or whatever, and aren't there to shut it off at the right
time. The timer performs a similar function. They aren't there to
do your firing for you.
Yeah, I often let the sitter shut it down for a bisque, since I'm
not too picky about the bisque temperature, and if it goes a
little hot, no big deal. I can judge by color whether it's in the
ballpark or not. But that's my risk to take. I won't recommend it
to anyone else as a good method. (Good habits may be taught; bad
habits are personal and need to be acquired for yourself.) For a
final firing, though, you really need to fire with witness cones,
and treat the sitter as emergency backup only.
So...
Load the kiln, place the witness cone packs on each shelf, (at
least one must be visible from a peephole,) and put a cone in the
sitter. Choose a cone that's about one cone higher than you
actually intend to fire. You may need to recalibrate the sitter
later, but this'll do for a first attempt, since sitter cones
often equal a lower numbered witness cone. (I won't discuss
loading, cone packs, or setting the sitter, but if you need to
know, ask.)
Leave the lid propped open a few inches, and turn your switches to
the lowest setting. Leave it that way for a few hours; more if your
work is thick. Then shut the lid. Wait an hour or so, then turn the
switches to about halfway. Wait another hour or so, then turn it
up to the highest setting. (You can do this in smaller increments
but more often; it's up to you.) Thicker work must be fired slower.
Keep an eye on your cone packs. With a new kiln, you won't know
how long you'll have to wait, but if you have an eye for the color
of various temperatures, you'll have some idea of how fast it's
firing. When the guide cone(s) drop, start checking on it often.
When the proper cone drops, turn the kiln off or turn the switches
to low for a soak - it's up to you. If the sitter turns it off
before the witness cones say it's time, just tape the sitter flap
up into place again and push the 'on' button. Then wait for the
witness cone to tell you when you're finished, and turn it off
or soak. Witness cones are ALWAYS more accurate than the sitter.
Hope this contains some of what you wanted to know!
-Snail
Corinna L. Hendrix on thu 28 mar 02
Thank you so much for your advice. I have read up on kilns and have
actually used them before, although my inexperience with this particular
model might depict different. At any rate, thank you very much for
enlightening me further. I have been in contact with Cress trying to figure
a couple of other things out and I have to say that I am not fully impressed
with their customer service. Granted I didn't buy the kiln directly from
them (second-hand) but they should still help out anyone with one of their
products. I will certainly look into obtaining the right manuels for my
kiln, thank you again.
On the water heater bit, I shouldn't worry about the fumes possiblly
igniting the pilot light of the water heater? I know I might be overly
cautious or even paranoid, but I truly would not like it if I were to blow
up my new house! ;)
Thank you again,
Corinna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arnold Howard"
To:
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 5:58 AM
Subject: Re: Kiln firing and water heater
> Corinna, the prongs you refer to are part of the Dawson Kiln
> Sitter.
>
> You should not fire your kiln until you have read detailed
> instructions on the Dawson Kiln Sitter. You need to know how to
> calibrate it with a firing gauge, how to load it with the small
> cone, and how to adjust it. It is a very simple, reliable device
> that shuts the kiln off when the small cone bends. But if used
> improperly, it can overfire your kiln.
>
> Misunderstanding the Kiln Sitter has caused a lot of frustration.
> One time a customer wanted me to fly to her home in North Carolina
> to pick up her kiln and take it back. The problem was only a Kiln
> Sitter out of adjustment. Another customer thought her heating
> elements were bad. Again, it was only a Kiln Sitter with a bent
> rod.
>
> Another essential is pyrometric cones. You should read about them
> in detail before firing your kiln.
>
> A little study of kilns goes a long way in prolonging the life of
> your kiln and improving firing results. I would call Cress
> (800-423-4584) for the manual.
>
> It is okay to put the kiln in the garage with a water heater
> provided the water heater is in good condition. It is important to
> remove flammable materials, the lawn mower, and your car from the
> garage while the kiln is firing. Also, keep the kiln at least 12"
> away from walls.
>
> Is the kiln on a stand? It should not be directly on the floor or
> on cinder blocks.
>
> With best wishes,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon Ind. Inc.
>
>
>
> --- "Corinna L. Hendrix" wrote:
> > Even if I have the prongs to hold a bar cone?
> >
> > Corinna
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Judith Frederick"
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 5:22 PM
> > Subject: Re: Kiln firing and water heater
> >
> >
> > > A lot if the older kilns were just witness cone kilns. I have
> > an old one
> > > with just two switches for on and off. You need to buy witness
> > cones and
> > > watch for them to melt at the cone you chose to fire your ware.
> > > Judy
> > >
> > > >From: "Corinna L. Hendrix"
> > > >Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> >
> > > >To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> > > >Subject: Kiln firing and water heater
> > > >Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 09:26:58 -0800
> > > >
> > > >Hello,
> > > >
> > > >I am new to this list but hope that it proves to be helpful.
> > I just
> > bought
> > > >a Cress Kiln. It is rather old I believe and is a Model K. I
> > have
> > several
> > > >questions about this kiln because it is different than the
> > ones that I
> > have
> > > >used before. First of all, I put the kiln in my garage which
> > seems to be
> > a
> > > >good place, according to various people I've talked to. There
> > was a
> > > >question raised however about the dangers of firing the kiln
> > with my
> > water
> > > >heater in the garage as well. Should there be a concern as to
> > the fumes
> > > >igniting due to the pilot light of the water heater or is this
> > just
> > > >overprecaution?
> > > >
> > > >Okay, my next questions deal with the kiln itself. I believe
> > this kiln
> > is
> > > >from 1985 or 86 and has two dials on the panel, one on top and
> > one on the
> > > >bottom. Both dials are identical and have numbers ranging
> > from low to
> > > >high. There isn't a timer than I can see, unless one of these
> > dials is
> > > >suppose to be the timer. The kiln didn't come with a manuel,
> > I bought it
> > > >secondhand. Would anybody be familiar with this kiln or be
> > able to tell
> > me
> > > >how to run it?
> > > >
> > > >I would appreciate any help I could get!
> > > >
> > > >Thanks,
> > > >Corinna
> > > >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards®
> http://movies.yahoo.com/
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Judith Frederick on thu 28 mar 02
A lot if the older kilns were just witness cone kilns. I have an old one
with just two switches for on and off. You need to buy witness cones and
watch for them to melt at the cone you chose to fire your ware.
Judy
>From: "Corinna L. Hendrix"
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Kiln firing and water heater
>Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 09:26:58 -0800
>
>Hello,
>
>I am new to this list but hope that it proves to be helpful. I just bought
>a Cress Kiln. It is rather old I believe and is a Model K. I have several
>questions about this kiln because it is different than the ones that I have
>used before. First of all, I put the kiln in my garage which seems to be a
>good place, according to various people I've talked to. There was a
>question raised however about the dangers of firing the kiln with my water
>heater in the garage as well. Should there be a concern as to the fumes
>igniting due to the pilot light of the water heater or is this just
>overprecaution?
>
>Okay, my next questions deal with the kiln itself. I believe this kiln is
>from 1985 or 86 and has two dials on the panel, one on top and one on the
>bottom. Both dials are identical and have numbers ranging from low to
>high. There isn't a timer than I can see, unless one of these dials is
>suppose to be the timer. The kiln didn't come with a manuel, I bought it
>secondhand. Would anybody be familiar with this kiln or be able to tell me
>how to run it?
>
>I would appreciate any help I could get!
>
>Thanks,
>Corinna
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
Corinna L. Hendrix on sat 30 mar 02
Hello again,
I fired up my kiln today and followed the guidelines that you set out. It's
been over 12 hours since I started at the low setting and over 8 hours since
I moved it up to the high setting and the witness cones have not done
anything and it has not shut off. Is something wrong? I hesitate leaving
the kiln on while we sleep, but can I turn it off? Will it damage the
pieces in the kiln? Can I refire them?
I hope you are online!
Thanks
Corinna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Snail Scott"
To:
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: Kiln firing and water heater
> >From: "Corinna L. Hendrix"
> >Should there be a concern as to the fumes
> >igniting due to the pilot light of the water heater or is this just
> >overprecaution?
>
> Electric kiln fumes are toxic, but not explosive.
> I wouldn't worry.
>
>
>
> >...Would anybody be familiar with this kiln or be able to tell me
> >how to run it?
>
> What you described are called 'infinite' switches. (The kind that
> click while firing - it's normal.) You said you have a kiln-sitter,
> but no timer, right?
>
> Timers and kiln-sitters are both just species of fail-safe devices;
> a kiln will work just fine without either of them. The lack of
> them just means you need to pay attention when you fire, but we
> should all be doing that anyway. You should always have a set of
> witness cones in the kiln for each firing, and use them to determine
> the correct shutoff temperature. The kiln-sitter is there to save
> the kiln and ware in case you fall asleep, or get kidnapped by
> aliens, or whatever, and aren't there to shut it off at the right
> time. The timer performs a similar function. They aren't there to
> do your firing for you.
>
> Yeah, I often let the sitter shut it down for a bisque, since I'm
> not too picky about the bisque temperature, and if it goes a
> little hot, no big deal. I can judge by color whether it's in the
> ballpark or not. But that's my risk to take. I won't recommend it
> to anyone else as a good method. (Good habits may be taught; bad
> habits are personal and need to be acquired for yourself.) For a
> final firing, though, you really need to fire with witness cones,
> and treat the sitter as emergency backup only.
>
> So...
>
> Load the kiln, place the witness cone packs on each shelf, (at
> least one must be visible from a peephole,) and put a cone in the
> sitter. Choose a cone that's about one cone higher than you
> actually intend to fire. You may need to recalibrate the sitter
> later, but this'll do for a first attempt, since sitter cones
> often equal a lower numbered witness cone. (I won't discuss
> loading, cone packs, or setting the sitter, but if you need to
> know, ask.)
>
> Leave the lid propped open a few inches, and turn your switches to
> the lowest setting. Leave it that way for a few hours; more if your
> work is thick. Then shut the lid. Wait an hour or so, then turn the
> switches to about halfway. Wait another hour or so, then turn it
> up to the highest setting. (You can do this in smaller increments
> but more often; it's up to you.) Thicker work must be fired slower.
>
> Keep an eye on your cone packs. With a new kiln, you won't know
> how long you'll have to wait, but if you have an eye for the color
> of various temperatures, you'll have some idea of how fast it's
> firing. When the guide cone(s) drop, start checking on it often.
> When the proper cone drops, turn the kiln off or turn the switches
> to low for a soak - it's up to you. If the sitter turns it off
> before the witness cones say it's time, just tape the sitter flap
> up into place again and push the 'on' button. Then wait for the
> witness cone to tell you when you're finished, and turn it off
> or soak. Witness cones are ALWAYS more accurate than the sitter.
>
> Hope this contains some of what you wanted to know!
>
> -Snail
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
| |
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