LOGAN OPLINGER on wed 27 mar 02
Dear Cookie,
The more I've thought and read about test kilns, the more I've begun to realize that a small 1-1.5 cu. ft. test kiln capable of going to cone 10+ reduction would be almost ideal.
With this in mind, I offer the following web sites:
http://www.potters.org/subject22577.htm
http://home.datacomm.ch/magyk/main.htm
http://www.wildroad.com/celadon/refer.html
http://www.bigceramicstore.com/Information/selecting_a_kiln.htm
(I built a small up-draft 9"x9"x9" i.d. gas kiln capable of going to cone 11. So far I've have fired it once, and will have to modify the burner and damper system to attempt better control.)
If you want to test using only electric/ oxidation firing, then your options are simpler. Select a kiln based on your available electrical connection (110volt, 20amp for the smallest), and the cone you want to fire to. Then look at the kiln design- thicker insulation is better, heavy duty elements capable of cone 10 are better. If you want your test kiln to duplicate the firing cycle of your production kiln, then one with a progamable controller is best, but most expensive; without one be prepared to babysit the kiln to manually adjust the temperature as you fire up/down through the firing cycle.
Listen to what others will have to say about this topic also.
Good luck,
Logan Oplinger
--
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Roger Korn on wed 27 mar 02
Hi Cookie,
I build a 9x9x9 test kiln that fires electric AND propane gas reduction. Using ITC213 coatings on Thyssen Elastochrome elements, I turn on the gas (barbecue tank) at 1600F and fire to ^10 reduction. Good copper reds, tenmokus, celadons,
and shinos. My next build includes 2 kilns so far, and if you could use something like this, the price would be about $400 plus shipping. The price includes the kiln, stand, burner, damper, and adjustable propane regulator. You need to furnish a BBQ-type propane tank. You can fire to ^10 many times on one tankful. And, if you are just checking melt temperatures of glazes, you can get to ^10 in an hour. You typically want to take the same heating curve as your regular kiln, however, because timing and atmosphere are critical for a realistic test.
This kiln lets you do straight electric firing to ^10, gas reduction to ^10, AND operates on a normal 20 amp 120 volt circuit wall plug. Strictly manual control, YOU need to watch the cones and/or pyrometer and adjust the electric range-type "infinite controller" knob and the pressure to a bunsen-type burner for temperature and a sliding damper for kiln atmosphere (oxidation<->reduction). The kiln will operate anywhere you have adequate ventilation, such as under the range hood of your kitchen stove. Remember, this is a MANUALLY controlled kiln, so YOU have to adjust it and shut it off. Tested to
destruction, the element melts, shutting off the electric power, but the burner is capable of causing a melt-down, so this type of test kiln MUST be attended when operating.
Please contact me off-list if you are interested.
Roger
LOGAN OPLINGER wrote:
> Dear Cookie,
>
> The more I've thought and read about test kilns, the more I've begun to realize that a small 1-1.5 cu. ft. test kiln capable of going to cone 10+ reduction would be almost ideal.
>
> With this in mind, I offer the following web sites:
>
> http://www.potters.org/subject22577.htm
>
> http://home.datacomm.ch/magyk/main.htm
>
> http://www.wildroad.com/celadon/refer.html
>
> http://www.bigceramicstore.com/Information/selecting_a_kiln.htm
>
> (I built a small up-draft 9"x9"x9" i.d. gas kiln capable of going to cone 11. So far I've have fired it once, and will have to modify the burner and damper system to attempt better control.)
>
> If you want to test using only electric/ oxidation firing, then your options are simpler. Select a kiln based on your available electrical connection (110volt, 20amp for the smallest), and the cone you want to fire to. Then look at the kiln design- thicker insulation is better, heavy duty elements capable of cone 10 are better. If you want your test kiln to duplicate the firing cycle of your production kiln, then one with a progamable controller is best, but most expensive; without one be prepared to babysit the kiln to manually adjust the temperature as you fire up/down through the firing cycle.
>
> Listen to what others will have to say about this topic also.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Logan Oplinger
> --
>
> _______________________________________________
> Sign-up for your own FREE Personalized E-mail at Mail.com
> http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
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> http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;4018363;6991039;n?http://svc.travelocity.com/promos/winhawaii/
>
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--
Roger Korn
McKay Creek Ceramics
In AZ: PO Box 463
4215 Culpepper Ranch Rd
Rimrock, AZ 86335
928-567-5699 <-
In OR: PO Box 436
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North Plains, OR 97133
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