Tom Buck on sun 31 mar 02
Corinna Hendrix asks for help on fixing the odd behaviour of her "new"
kiln. Let me join in this saga, for it happens often enough among buyers
of used electric kilns that I'd like to suggest a simple procedure to
check on the "state" of a prospective buy.
as for why the kiln didn't reach 1000 oC / 1800 oF, there are at
least two likely causes. 1) The electricity you have going to the kiln is
less than needed; or 2) the elements in the kiln are too old. (There are
other possibilities; but let's tackle these two first).
do you have a friend who knows how to use a multi-meter? if so,
have the friend measure (exercising due care) the house VOLTAGE at the
"board" or "fuse box". For non-industrial\commercial locations, the
voltage should be between 220-240 volts (240 v is best). Then measure the
resistance of each element when it is cold. you can do this measurement
inside the kiln or remove the "switch box covering" and use the probes on
the connectors (where the element "tails" come out of the kiln).
When you have both voltage and ohmage, do this math: Volts divided
by Ohms = Current (amperes or amps). Amps should be between 8 and 12 for a
well "wired" kiln. Next, multiply Volts and Amps = Watts, and you should
get at least 1000 watts, 1 kW, better is 1.5 - 2.0 kW. and add up the kW
for each element, and check this sum against the power rating on the
nameplate, typically 10 to 11 kW for a 6 - 7 cubic foot (inside volume)
kiln. If your kiln is smaller then the kW will be smaller on the
nameplate.
if the kW is 75% (or less) of the nameplate number, you will have
difficulty reaching bisquing temperature. and have to consider buying and
installing new elements (each 30 - 45 USD depending on size and supplier).
these are the needed first steps to find out more about your
new-to-you kiln.
good measuring. peace. Tom B.
Tom Buck ) tel: 905-389-2339
(westend Lake Ontario, province of Ontario, Canada).
mailing address: 373 East 43rd Street,
Hamilton ON L8T 3E1 Canada
| |
|
