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raku white crackle problem

updated fri 5 apr 02

 

Megan Ratchford on wed 3 apr 02


When you pulled the pieces out of the kiln did you try to advance the
crackle by fanning them? I've seen whole pieces pulled out to sit for the
crackle be completely slick on the side sitting next to the kiln. Pull the
piece away from the source of heat and let the glaze cool. Some students
have tried canned air, but they get rather small clusters of crackles. Hope
this helps!
Megan
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 7:46 PM
Subject: Raku White Crackle Problem


> Hi,
> I raku fired several small pieces today. The square pieces that were
glazed
> with white crackle cracked nicely on only one side. The other three sides
> had practically no crackle. The round and flattish pieces had practically
no
> crackle. Is the problem in the reduction? Does anyone have any
suggestions?
> Thanks,
> Marcia in Chattanooga
>
>
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Pheetie@AOL.COM on wed 3 apr 02


Hi,
I raku fired several small pieces today. The square pieces that were glazed
with white crackle cracked nicely on only one side. The other three sides
had practically no crackle. The round and flattish pieces had practically no
crackle. Is the problem in the reduction? Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Marcia in Chattanooga

Ababi on thu 4 apr 02


Hello Marcia
I have fought one year to overcome this problem. In the outside the
glaze fits better in the inside not so good. We want the not so good.
I have a half way solution for you.
Inside white crackle raku, outside luster or dry raku glaze or mostly
black

Ababi Sharon
Kibbutz Shoval- Israel
Glaze addict
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
http://www.israelceramics.org/



---------- Original Message ----------

>Hi,
>I raku fired several small pieces today. The square pieces that were
>glazed
>with white crackle cracked nicely on only one side. The other three
>sides
>had practically no crackle. The round and flattish pieces had
>practically no
>crackle. Is the problem in the reduction? Does anyone have any
>suggestions?
>Thanks,
>Marcia in Chattanooga

>________________________________________________________________________
>______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.

Craig Clark on thu 4 apr 02


Marcia, the problem could be a "reduction" one if by this you mean the
flaming of the pot in the can. This is not actual reduction, in the case of
a white crackle glaze, but is more the impregnation of the clay body,
through the fissures in the glaze and the unglazed areas, with Carbon.
If the glaze is crackling all over (can you see crazing throughout the
surface when you look at it closely?) and you don't see the black lines then
you are not getting enough flame action all over the pot. If this is the
case try holding the pot for a few extra seconds and turn it in the flame.
Another thing to try is to make a type of birds nest with your reduction
material (newpaper works well) in the can.
If you are not getting a good crackle all over the pot there are a few
different things that may work for you: try waving the pot around a bit (10
seconds or so) before putting it into the can. Don't just pendalum it back
and forth in one direction, turn it as you swing it (needless to say, but
I'll say it anyway, be careful while you are doing this.) You should be able
to hear the crackling occuring. You may also try the true and tried method
of "blowing" on the pot and watching the crazing spread across the surface.
This one is a little to intimate with a hot pot for me. I always wear a full
length face shield while rakuing and that makes the blowing part difficult
at best.
Another thing to try is to get yourself a decent spray bottle and fill
it with water. While holding the pot in the open air, or sitting it on a
kiln shelf piece on a good stable base, "spritz" the pot with water. Try
varying the concentration of the spritzing. Get closer in some areas and
further away in others. Once again only do this for a short time (several
seconds).
Lastely, if there just doesn't seem to be enough crazing in the glaze
you can always try adding a bit more flint.
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org


----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 8:46 PM
Subject: Raku White Crackle Problem


> Hi,
> I raku fired several small pieces today. The square pieces that were
glazed
> with white crackle cracked nicely on only one side. The other three sides
> had practically no crackle. The round and flattish pieces had practically
no
> crackle. Is the problem in the reduction? Does anyone have any
suggestions?
> Thanks,
> Marcia in Chattanooga
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Karen Shapiro on thu 4 apr 02


Hi Marcia,

I'll just add my 2 cents worth on this, although you have gotten a lot of good advice so far. I raku fire all my work so I have a lot of experience with this and have finally learned how to get good crackle whenever I want it.

How fast are you pulling these pieces? If you pull fast, you will NOT get good crackle. I pull these pieces very slowly, i.e. let them remain in the kiln for awhile, then wave them around before placing them in the reduction bucket. You will hear the pinging -- so wait to place them in the bucket until you hear that sound. You probably got the crackles on the one side of the square piece which rested on the reduction material, i.e. the "bottom", which will crackle the most. The glaze also makes a difference, of course. After trying almost anything I could find -- mixing my own -- someone suggested that I try Duncan's clear satin and that is the most successful, dramatic crackle I have found.

try again!

Karen in Gualala



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