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electric kiln hinge repair

updated sat 13 apr 02

 

bivaletz ginny on wed 10 apr 02


hi - the screws feel out where the hinge attaches to
the body of our olympic 23" kiln. should i just
replace them with larger screw as one would do if it
were wood?
my fear is that they will also work loose until there
is nothing left to screw into.
i thought of using a counterweight attached to the
ceiling to keep the lid opened, but where could i
attach to the kiln. the little handle on the front of
the lid seems even less sturdy than the hinge.
any ideas? thanks ginny

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Anita Rickenberg on wed 10 apr 02


Ginny,
I have a larger Olympic (27") and I removed the hinge completely and =
attached a metal cable/pulley to the handle. My handle is quite secure, =
so a metal cable is attached, which goes through a pulley screwed into =
the ceiling above the kiln, then to a hook on the wall. This way, I can =
open the lid easily and secure be means of the wall hook.
Anita

Craig Martell on wed 10 apr 02


Hi Ginny:

If the stainless steel banding, where the hinge attaches, is in good shape
you could redo the hinge with larger diameter sheet metal screws. If you
do this, get screws that are stainless steel. Olympic probably uses
regular steel screws and they will deteriorate.

If you want to do a counterweight, get some stainless steel cable that is
about one quarter inch in diameter. Wrap this around the banding on the
lid and tie the ends together with clamps for cable and a
turnbuckle. Cinch the turnbuckle down until the cable is tighter than a
piano wire and use this for the counterweight. The original banding that's
attached with those hose clamp fittings doesn't exert much pressure but a
turnbuckle will.

regards, Craig Martell in Oregon

Arnold Howard on wed 10 apr 02


It is difficult to know how to fix the hinge without seeing the
kiln. Using larger screws is probably the best solution. If you can
find them, you should use stainless steel sheet metal screws.

A simple, safe way to keep the lid open is to lean it against a
wall behind the kiln.

Arnold Howard
Paragon Ind. Inc.

--- bivaletz ginny wrote:
> hi - the screws feel out where the hinge attaches to
> the body of our olympic 23" kiln. should i just
> replace them with larger screw as one would do if it
> were wood?
> my fear is that they will also work loose until there
> is nothing left to screw into.
> i thought of using a counterweight attached to the
> ceiling to keep the lid opened, but where could i
> attach to the kiln. the little handle on the front of
> the lid seems even less sturdy than the hinge.
> any ideas? thanks ginny
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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melpots@pclink.com.


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Roger Korn on wed 10 apr 02


Thanks Craig - this solves a customer problem I'm currently dealing with: small
potter, heavy lid, don't want to stress the top.

Roger

Craig Martell wrote:

> Hi Ginny:
>
> If the stainless steel banding, where the hinge attaches, is in good shape
> you could redo the hinge with larger diameter sheet metal screws. If you
> do this, get screws that are stainless steel. Olympic probably uses
> regular steel screws and they will deteriorate.
>
> If you want to do a counterweight, get some stainless steel cable that is
> about one quarter inch in diameter. Wrap this around the banding on the
> lid and tie the ends together with clamps for cable and a
> turnbuckle. Cinch the turnbuckle down until the cable is tighter than a
> piano wire and use this for the counterweight. The original banding that's
> attached with those hose clamp fittings doesn't exert much pressure but a
> turnbuckle will.
>
> regards, Craig Martell in Oregon
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

--
Roger Korn
McKay Creek Ceramics
In AZ: PO Box 463
4215 Culpepper Ranch Rd
Rimrock, AZ 86335
928-567-5699 <-
In OR: PO Box 436
31330 NW Pacific Ave.
North Plains, OR 97133
503-647-5464

Stephen J Lewicki on fri 12 apr 02


At L&L we put alumnized steel backer plates inbetween the stainless steel
band and the firebrick so that the screws have something more to dig into
than just thin 26 gauge stainless steel. You could get something similar
made up for you by a local tin banger (he could probably get away with
galvanized steel) of either 14 or 16 gauge. I definitely agree with using
stainless steel screws. If you can't find these localy you can get them
from us.

Stephen J Lewickio
President
L&L Kiln Mfg.