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basement studio

updated fri 23 feb 07

 

Eric Suchman on tue 30 apr 02


Naomi,
By boiler do you mean furnace? I had a studio in Somerville, MA in the
late 70's and it was adjacent to an oil furnace. I have to say that the
rythym and sound of the furnace was a rather comforting sound. The only
sound I worked with was that and the sound of the clay between my fingers.
There is something to be said for the zen of it all.
I did have to sound proof a room for tatally different reasons though
and I used egg cartons to dampen the sound. It worked out rather well. Be
sure that the cartons are not facing anything flammable however. Some use
this same trick when recording music.

Best, Eric Suchman






> From: Naomi Rieder
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 11:25:26 -0400
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: basement studio
>
> I hope some clayarter has gone through this and can share the results: I'm
> going to separate a studio area from the rest of a below-grade basement.
> The question is how best to muffle the noise from the oil-burning boiler
> that will be on the other side of the studio. If I only use blanket
> fiberglass insulation between the walls, will that be enough? Or do I
have
> to use Homasote, plus the insulation? Do I have to use resilient metal
> channels? Or do I have to double-stud the walls? Beware, beware,
> researching on the internet! Too much info! What I need is input from
> someone who's "been there and done it".
>
> Much TIA,
>
> Naom
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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>
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> melpots@pclink.com.

Estrellita Ammirati on sun 25 jul 04


I am planning on moving and setting up a studio in the
basement complete with kiln. Is this a safe thing to
do and if so what do I have to do to ensure the safety
of myself and my family. Any advice will be greatly
appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Estrellita

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Kathi LeSueur on sun 25 jul 04


eammirati@YAHOO.COM wrote:

>I am planning on moving and setting up a studio in the
>basement complete with kiln. Is this a safe thing to
>do and if so what do I have to do to ensure the safety
>of myself and my family. Any advice will be greatly
>appreciated. Thanks in advance.
>
>Estrellita>>
>

Lots of people have studios in their basement. However, if there is
another option available (a garage or out building) that is the way I
would go. The biggest problem is that you will have clay dust throughout
your whole house, especially if you have force air heat. My studio has
been out of my house since 1982. I've had my duct work cleaned by a
company with HEPA filters and there is still clay dust. It can't be avoided.
Kathi

>
>
>

william schran on sun 25 jul 04


Estrillita wrote">setting up a studio in the basement complete with
kiln. Is this a safe thing to do and if so what do I have to do to
ensure the safety of myself and my family.<

Two main things that demand attention for a safe studio:
1. Keep studio clean by wet wiping/mopping, do nothing that would
create dry clay dust.
2. Properly vent the kiln to the outside.

Bill

Rod Wuetherick on sun 25 jul 04


1. Buy a venting system and vent the fumes outside
2. NEVER EVER Leave it unattended expecting that everything
will work out as it does 99.9% of the time.
3. Mop your studio everyday.
4. Mix your glazes outside if you can. If possible partition a smaller room
off
mix your glazes in there. Have a large 18" or larger fan venting the room
to the outdoors. Some may say this is overkill and it is a bit. But then
again what is overkill when you are thinking the safety of your family?

Do those four things and you will be fine!

Good Luck...

Everything is possible,
Rod


I am planning on moving and setting up a studio in the
basement complete with kiln. Is this a safe thing to
do and if so what do I have to do to ensure the safety
of myself and my family. Any advice will be greatly
appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Estrellita

Arnold Howard on mon 26 jul 04


From: "Estrellita Ammirati"
> I am planning on moving and setting up a studio in the
> basement complete with kiln. Is this a safe thing to
> do and if so what do I have to do to ensure the safety
> of myself and my family.

Several people have given excellent answers to the above post. In addition,
here are basic kiln safety precautions.

Sincerely,

Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
arnoldhoward@att.net / www.paragonweb.com

Check the kiln from time to time. Observe the normal sounds that it makes
and length of firing time. Once you are familiar with the normal operation
of your kiln, you will know when something goes wrong.

Following these pointers adds very little extra time to your daily routine:

Place the kiln on the stand recommended by the manufacturer. When a kiln is
safety tested by UL, the lab fires the kiln on the stand designed for the
kiln. Cinder blocks or bricks can inhibit the flow of air under the kiln.
They can also change the kiln's heating characteristics.

Place the kiln on a non-combustible surface.

Do not install closer than 12" from any wall or combustible surface.

Fire only in a well-ventilated, covered and protected area.

Do not open the lid until kiln has cooled to room temperature and all
switches are off.

Dangerous voltage: do not touch the heating elements with anything.

Disconnect kiln before servicing.

Do not leave kiln unattended while firing. Do not leave a kiln turned on at
your studio while you are at home sleeping.

Wear firing safety glasses when looking into a hot kiln.

Keep the kiln lid or door closed when the kiln is not in use. This keeps
dust out of the kiln. Also, should someone turn on the kiln while you are
away, the closed lid will keep the heat safely inside the firing chamber.

Never place anything on the kiln lid, even when the kiln is idle. If people
become accustomed to placing papers and other objects on the kiln, they may
forget and do that while the kiln is firing.

Remove all tripping hazards from around the kiln. Keep the kiln's supply
cord out of traffic areas.

Do not let the cord touch the side of the kiln, which may damage the cord.

Avoid extension cords.

Do not remove the ware from the kiln until the kiln has cooled to room
temperature. It is possible for thermal shock to break hot ceramic pieces.
The sharp edges of broken ware can injure hands.

After firing glazed ware in your kiln, examine the shelves for glaze
particles. Sharp slivers of glaze stuck to the shelf can cut hands. Before
rubbing a hand over a shelf, be sure the shelf is free of glaze shards.

Fire only approved materials purchased from a knowledgeable supplier. Do not
fire marbles, pieces of concrete, rocks, and other objects. Rapid heating to
high temperature can cause violent reactions in many materials.

Avoid firing toxic materials inside the kiln, such as moth balls. Burning
moth balls create toxic fumes.

Never fire tempered glass inside a kiln. It could explode.

Greenware, which is unfired clay, must be bone dry before firing. Moist
greenware can explode inside the kiln, damaging the ware and the kiln.
Place a piece of greenware against the inside of your wrist. If it feels
cool, it is too wet to fire.

Do not fire cracked shelves. They can break during firing, damaging the ware
inside the kiln.

Store kiln shelves in a dry area. Moist shelves can explode inside a kiln.

If you smell burning plastic, turn the kiln off. Examine the wall outlet and
supply cord for signs of burning.

Never place extra insulation around the kiln in an attempt to conserve
energy. The extra insulation can cause the wiring and the steel case to
over-heat.

Do not wear loose-fitting clothing around a hot kiln.

Unplug the kiln, or turn off the electrical shut-off box or circuit breaker
when the kiln is not in use, especially if you are concerned that someone
could turn it on while you are away.

Remove flammable materials from the kiln room. If you fire a kiln in the
garage, park your car outside. Remove the lawn mower, gasoline, and other
flammable materials. Keep packing materials such as shredded newspapers out
of the kiln room.

Keep unsupervised children away.

Ron Roy on wed 28 jul 04


Hi Estrellita,

You are getting a lot of very good advice about this - just to mention a
couple of very important things - ventilate well and make sure you have
make up air. Install at least one CO detector - never leave a kiln alone to
shut off - have it hard wired with a junction box - and always shut it off
at the junction box when the firing is done.

RR

>I am planning on moving and setting up a studio in the
>basement complete with kiln. Is this a safe thing to
>do and if so what do I have to do to ensure the safety
>of myself and my family. Any advice will be greatly
>appreciated. Thanks in advance.
>
>Estrellita

Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513

clay.music on tue 13 feb 07


After years of the freedom of working in my backyard it appears we're =
moving into the city and my new studio will be situated in the =
downstairs, more or less a basement. The house is a late 50's complete =
with a real bomb shelter. That particular space, while quaint, cannot =
house air cleaning or venting due to the thick walls. So, the basement =
bedroom will become my studio and the laundry room will become my kiln =
room. I am very concerned about the residual air quality in the upstairs =
from kiln firing and floating silica particles. Am I being overly =
paranoid? Does anyone have strong recommendations for one venting system =
over another? I will be able to vent the kilns outside easily as it will =
be situated near the basement door and a small window. The other obvious =
drawback is there is no easy access to load in my clay other than down a =
steep flight of steps.... any words of wisdom on working in a basement =
will be greatly appreciated.=20
thanks for all the advice!
Sara O'Neill
Geometrix Clay Designs
Durham, NC 27703
clay.music@verizon.net

Paul Borian on tue 13 feb 07


i would spend the money on one of those Beam vacuum systems that run
continuously and quietly, continually pulling air out of the room and
venting it outside - there must be a way you could run some piping outside
for this. Put some kind of conrete sealer on the floor (if not already
there) so it is smooth and easy to mop, and mop it every day.

for the clay, there are those aluminum "ramp" things that have the little
tiny rollers all the way along them, i have no idea what they are called,
but you can use that to roll the clay boxes down the steps - i have seen
urban restaurants use them for unloading goods down steep steps into the
basements.

at least, that is what i would do if i were in that situation.
Paul

Patrick Cross on tue 13 feb 07


Are the stairs a straight shot from top to bottom or is there a turn
involved? I can envision angle iron tracks pushed to the outside edges of
the stair case...that normally wouldn't be in the way if the case is wide
enough. Then some sort of sled on rollers that could be removed when not in
use. You could even get a small electric cable winch to operate
it...powered and controlled lowering. I was recently looking at some on
eBay that were in the $50-100 range and were rated for up to about 800
pounds of dead lift.

For and idea:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEIKO-ELECTRIC-HOIST-CAPACITY-WINCH-440LB-440LBS-TOOL_W0QQitemZ160083171857QQihZ006QQcategoryZ632QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Patrick Cross (cone10soda)

On 2/13/07, clay.music wrote:
>
> After years of the freedom of working in my backyard it appears we're
> moving into the city and my new studio will be situated in the downstairs,
> more or less a basement. The house is a late 50's complete with a real bomb
> shelter. That particular space, while quaint, cannot house air cleaning or
> venting due to the thick walls. So, the basement bedroom will become my
> studio and the laundry room will become my kiln room. I am very concerned
> about the residual air quality in the upstairs from kiln firing and floating
> silica particles. Am I being overly paranoid? Does anyone have strong
> recommendations for one venting system over another? I will be able to vent
> the kilns outside easily as it will be situated near the basement door and a
> small window. The other obvious drawback is there is no easy access to load
> in my clay other than down a steep flight of steps.... any words of wisdom
> on working in a basement will be greatly appreciated.
> thanks for all the advice!
> Sara O'Neill
> Geometrix Clay Designs
> Durham, NC 27703
> clay.music@verizon.net
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>

clay.music on wed 14 feb 07


Hi Patrick,

No, the stairs have this fancy wrought iron railing down both sides because
the steps are open and then they split off in both directions just before
the outside wall. Not a good place to send clay sledding down. The more we
examine the drawbacks in the basement space the less likely it is that we
will buy this house. I'm really glad I decided to ask the good Clayart folks
before we made an offer on this house!
Thanks for your suggestions!
Sara

----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Cross"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:37 PM
Subject: Re: basement studio


> Are the stairs a straight shot from top to bottom or is there a turn
> involved? I can envision angle iron tracks pushed to the outside edges of
> the stair case...that normally wouldn't be in the way if the case is wide
> enough. Then some sort of sled on rollers that could be removed when not
> in
> use. You could even get a small electric cable winch to operate
> it...powered and controlled lowering. I was recently looking at some on
> eBay that were in the $50-100 range and were rated for up to about 800
> pounds of dead lift.
>
> For and idea:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/NEIKO-ELECTRIC-HOIST-CAPACITY-WINCH-440LB-440LBS-TOOL_W0QQitemZ160083171857QQihZ006QQcategoryZ632QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
>
> On 2/13/07, clay.music wrote:
>>
>> After years of the freedom of working in my backyard it appears we're
>> moving into the city and my new studio will be situated in the
>> downstairs,
>> more or less a basement. The house is a late 50's complete with a real
>> bomb
>> shelter. That particular space, while quaint, cannot house air cleaning
>> or
>> venting due to the thick walls. So, the basement bedroom will become my
>> studio and the laundry room will become my kiln room. I am very concerned
>> about the residual air quality in the upstairs from kiln firing and
>> floating
>> silica particles. Am I being overly paranoid? Does anyone have strong
>> recommendations for one venting system over another? I will be able to
>> vent
>> the kilns outside easily as it will be situated near the basement door
>> and a
>> small window. The other obvious drawback is there is no easy access to
>> load
>> in my clay other than down a steep flight of steps.... any words of
>> wisdom
>> on working in a basement will be greatly appreciated.
>> thanks for all the advice!
>> Sara O'Neill
>> Geometrix Clay Designs
>> Durham, NC 27703
>> clay.music@verizon.net
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________________________
>>
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>

clay.music on wed 14 feb 07


Hi Paul,

RIght now that floor is covered in brand new carpet which obviously has to
go! Since the bomb shelter space on the other side of the family room has a
good slab floor, this room must also. The Beam is a good idea. The steps
going down are another matter. The steps are not a straight shot down. Near
the end they split off in either direction so the clay would simply hit the
wall, not a good idea. The more people make suggestions, the more I realize
that this is not the house for me.
Thanks for all your suggestions! Clayart folks are the best!
Sara

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Borian"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 8:52 PM
Subject: Re: basement studio


>i would spend the money on one of those Beam vacuum systems that run
> continuously and quietly, continually pulling air out of the room and
> venting it outside - there must be a way you could run some piping outside
> for this. Put some kind of conrete sealer on the floor (if not already
> there) so it is smooth and easy to mop, and mop it every day.
>
> for the clay, there are those aluminum "ramp" things that have the little
> tiny rollers all the way along them, i have no idea what they are called,
> but you can use that to roll the clay boxes down the steps - i have seen
> urban restaurants use them for unloading goods down steep steps into the
> basements.
>
> at least, that is what i would do if i were in that situation.
> Paul
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>

Donald Burroughs on wed 14 feb 07


I have my studio in the basement, although my house is considerably newer.
My suggestion is to install, if the house is not already outfitted with
one, is a central vaccum vented outside. Depending on your work schedule I
would use the vaccum as often as possible and then damp mop your floor
with a vinegar/water solution. You don't need a strong solution just a
mild one.
As for venting a kiln, I would not install it in the house in the first
place. A kiln vent is going to draw on the fresh air supply in the house
putting stress on your furnace and possibly starving it of needed fresh
air. You might run into a build up of carbon monoxide especially if the
furnace is as old as the house. Those older units were often not designed
with other factors such a fireplace which also needs a fresh air supply of
it's own. If you do install the kiln in the basement you must provide a
seperate fresh air intake to compensate for the draw of your kiln vent. My
suggestion depending on your local climate is to install it outside or in
the garage. You will also run into far less problems if you happen to be
given a fire inspection and you will definitely avoid issues with your
home insurance if you do the latter.
Lastly, even a kiln vent is no full proof guarantee that there may not be
any lingering fumes which could pose a health hazard to both you and your
family.

Sincerely Donald Burroughs

William & Susan Schran User on wed 14 feb 07


On 2/14/07 7:17 AM, "clay.music" wrote:

> The steps are not a straight shot down. Near
> the end they split off in either direction so the clay would simply hit the
> wall, not a good idea.

Let a couple of the 50 pound boxes go down the stairs and you'll have a
straight shot - through the wall ;^)


--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com

Anne Doyle on wed 14 feb 07


Hi!
I work in a basement that is unfinished. I have my kiln down there as well.
I don't work down there while its firing. I have a vent system that pulls
the fumes outside and we've never noticed any unpleasant smells. I put in a
Carbon Monoxide detector. I am down there regularly to check on the firing
but i don't stay down for very long.

I use the dolly to bring the clay in down the basement steps. That dolly
was a great purchase!! It saves time and backs! We used it to bring all the
equipment and supplies in. I have access to a staircase that leads directly
outside.

I have no problem with silica dust so far as we try to be really careful
measuring out for glazes and i try not to make any dust(!) when cleaning
up.

I want to lay vinyl tiles for the floor next year to save the mops and make
clean-up easier. I wish i had done this before all the stuff was in place.
One suggestion would be to have everything on wheels as much as possible,
makes it easier for getting the floor clean.

As you have a laundry room , you're way ahead of the game. A laundry room
means water and a dryer vent. The dryer vent will work for your vent for
the kiln and the water means you don't have to haul buckets up and donw
stairs like i do. Clean-up will be a breeze! You'll just need to modify
your sink with a claytrap.

Good luck, a room of one's own is a great thing,

Anne, in Saint-Sauveur where the snow is flying and the basement is a good
place to be on such a day :)

WJ Seidl on thu 15 feb 07


Oooh! Oooh! I know! I know! (hopping up and down waving my hand like a kid
in class that _really_ has to GO!)

Vinegar acts as a deflocculant, so the clay remains "in suspension" in the
water, making its removal easier?


-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Carole Fox
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 11:37 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: basement studio

Why the vinegar?
Carole Fox
Silver Fox Pottery
Elkton, MD
silverfoxpottery@comcast.net

----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Burroughs" I
> would use the vaccum as often as possible and then damp mop your floor
> with a vinegar/water solution. You don't need a strong solution just a
> mild one.

____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Carole Fox on thu 15 feb 07


Why the vinegar?
Carole Fox
Silver Fox Pottery
Elkton, MD
silverfoxpottery@comcast.net

----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Burroughs" I
> would use the vaccum as often as possible and then damp mop your floor
> with a vinegar/water solution. You don't need a strong solution just a
> mild one.

Anne Webb on sun 18 feb 07


>From: Anne Doyle

>As you have a laundry room , you're way ahead of the game. A laundry room
>means water and a dryer vent. The dryer vent will work for your vent for
>the kiln and the water means you don't have to haul buckets up and donw
>stairs like i do. Clean-up will be a breeze! You'll just need to modify
>your sink with a claytrap.

Re using your existing dryer vent for your kiln exhaust..
I would check with the recommendations of the manufacturer of your vent
system to see what kind of vent you should use first.
Seems to me when I was using a vent system some years ago (a Bailey 2 kiln
vent) that I needed to have a metal vent and ductwork, as opposed to vinyl.
don't know that i would want to share the same vent between my dryer and
kiln either.

_________________________________________________________________
With tax season right around the corner, make sure to follow these few
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Anne Webb on sun 18 feb 07


Hey Sara

Well I agree.. having your studio in your house has its own considerations.
But if that is your only alternative......

First of all (and probably a no-brainer), I would get an electrician to come
in and check your wiring and electrical system and make sure you will have
what you need to handle the loads for your kiln, your wheel(s), your heater,
etc etc. ..especially since this is an older house.

Dust/free-silica in the house .... It is particularly important that you
keep a clean studio. Its not impossible, I have seen it done. Pick up your
trimmings immediately, wipe surfaces daily, etc etc. Avoid using heaters /
a.c. with a fan blowing in the studio, use instead radiant or ambient heat
source. ..you know, just common sense things..
For your open bags of glaze ingredients, transfer them to plastic bins and
label them (I used to keep the batch info from the side of the bag just in
case and didn't mix batches in with old ones). I used to use Rubbermaid's
Rough totes, for example, which were kind of taller bins (much like a
kitchen garbage can, only with a sealable lid) so i didn't have to bend over
as much, and they held a 50 lb bag of materials poifectly.. MUCH less dust
generated when you dont have that dusty old bag to open and close each time.

Avoiding sweeping. A vacuum system that exhausts to outdoors (I think shop
vac has a system for this) is a good alternative. Wet mop. Wet mop/ Wet mop.
Having an smooth easy surface to mop and keep clean is recommendable as
well. if the floor is concrete, you can urethane it (they now have stuff you
can do yourself) - you don't need to be contending with concrete dust as
well as clay dust. linoleum or vinyl flooring works too and can be put down
in an evening..

Sealing vents from the house ventilation ducts into your studio & kiln room,
particularly the air intake, will help from keeping dust going up through
your furnace ducts to other parts of your house.. will also help to keep
kiln fumes from wafting too. Use heavy duty plastic sheeting to create air
barrier. Having seperate ventilation and heating is advantageous.

There are also air filter systems you can get that, contrary to what some
people say, do actually work. Not necessarily must-have, but I physically
noticed a difference in my breathing when I had one. (I used to have a
studio in our 2 car garage, north of Toronto.) There used to be a company
called Tibbits (which, unfortunately, has since gone out of business) that
made these industrial filtration machines with replaceable filters of
alternating layers of foam, carbon, etc, and not only did it take the dust
from the air but it also, supposedly, was designed to take other noxious
contaminants out as well. Was like a hepa plus plus plus. The one I had cost
a bit, but I have to say it worked brilliantly and for the square footage I
had, my machine just fit on the corner of one of my tables. Something to
research anyhow..

Kiln venting.. Well the fact that you have a window right by your kiln will
work in your favour. As I mentioned in another email, I used to have a
Bailey vent which was attached directly to the kiln (vs using a hood).
Bailey has one for a single vent/kiln, and another model where u can connect
up 2 kilns. Worked quite well, though I still avoided working in the studio
when the kiln was going, out of habit.

re lugging clay downstairs... instead of putting a ramp on your stairs
(which i understand are not straight ..?), perhaps you can rig one through
your window. you can prolly rig one up yourself without spending a lotta
money. depending how creative you wanted to get you could prolly rig up a
sling & pulley system to ease the box of clay down the stairs on your ramp,
so it didn't go through the wall ;) . not sure how often you get a shipment
of clay but, of course, you could coax a couple of burly youths from the
neighbourhood to cart clay down the stairs for you for a few bucks..

...anyways, just a few things I considered when I had a studio attached to
the house.
Basement studio isn't a total nightmare, just takes a little planning,
creativity, and adaptation to make it work. :)

oh might want to check with your insurance co about the kiln in the
basement.. you don't want something to happen and not be covered.

Well all the best and good luck with your new studio :) Would love to hear
how you make out.
Anne Webb
Magnolia Springs, AL

>After years of the freedom of working in my backyard it appears we're
>moving into the city and my >new studio will be situated in the downstairs,
>more or less a basement. The house is a late 50's >complete with a real
>bomb shelter..... ....

_________________________________________________________________
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John Hesselberth on sun 18 feb 07


On Feb 18, 2007, at 3:29 AM, Anne Webb wrote:

> Avoiding sweeping. A vacuum system that exhausts to outdoors (I
> think shop
> vac has a system for this) is a good alternative. Wet mop. Wet mop/
> Wet mop.
> Having an smooth easy surface to mop and keep clean is
> recommendable as
> well. if the floor is concrete, you can urethane it (they now have
> stuff you
> can do yourself) - you don't need to be contending with concrete
> dust as
> well as clay dust. linoleum or vinyl flooring works too and can be
> put down
> in an evening..

This is all excellent advice. I would add one thing. In spite of how
good you are at housekeeping, dust will accumulate on the soles of
your shoes. While it won't remove all of it I have found that having
a walk-on sticky pad like are often at the entrance of clean rooms is
a worthwhile addition. I am amazed at how quickly mine gets dirty in
spite of fairly good housekeeping. At least that dust that gets onto
the sticky pad does not get into the house. These pads come with
30-60 peel-off sheets and cost somewhere around $20-40 each. A pad
will last about a year depending on the traffic level. Just google
some of the key words and you will easily find them.

Regards,

John

Patrick Cross on sun 18 feb 07


I've heard of potters having to "wear several hats"...like myself a
potter/carpenter/plumber/whatever it takes to pay the bills...but having to
switch shoes too? Geesch...I just want to make pots. And now I have to
reconsider other parts of my wardrobe as well?

(tongue in cheek, of course)
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)


On 2/18/07, Lee Love wrote:
>
> On 2/19/07, John Hesselberth wrote:
> > I would add one thing. In spite of how
> > good you are at housekeeping, dust will accumulate on the soles of
> > your shoes. While it won't remove all of it I have found that having
> > a walk-on sticky pad
>
> When my studio was in part of our living space, a loft at the
> Northern Warehouse Artists Cooperative, I had the pottery work area
> marked off by linoleum. I would switch shoes when I entered that
> space and switch back when I went back into the living space.
>
> --
> Lee in Mashiko, Japan
> Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
> http://potters.blogspot.com/
>
> "To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
> Henry David Thoreau
>
> "Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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>
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> melpots@pclink.com.
>

Lee Love on mon 19 feb 07


On 2/19/07, Patrick Cross wrote:

> I've heard of potters having to "wear several hats"...like myself a
> potter/carpenter/plumber/whatever it takes to pay the bills...but having to
> switch shoes too? Geesch...I just want to make pots. And now I have to
> reconsider other parts of my wardrobe as well?

I realized how well this works because my first trip to Japan
was just after setting up in our studio loft. You don't wear shoes
in the house in Japan. Guess are given slippers but you slip them off
in the hall before you go into a tatami room, like our living room,
bedroom or computer room. Also, you change shoes when you enter the
toilet room, which is traditionally never a part of the bathroom, but
is separate.

This is followed in schools, Dr. Clinics, libraries and
community centers.

In the traditional pottery workshop, you slip your shoes off
before getting onto the wheel platform. This parallels how monks use
their meditation platforms (where they also eat and sleep) in Zen
monasteries. In fact, when an America Zen Priest from Iowa visited
and I showed him my teachers workshop, I said to him, "This reminds
me..." and he interrupted my sentence to complete my thought "...the
mediation hall at a Soto zen monastery."

So, when I got back to Saint Paul, after my first trip back
to Japan in 1993, because my studio was in my living area, I thought
it would be good to change Birkies when I entered my work area.
Really help keep the clay in its place.

I highly recommend travel. Bumping into the realities of
other cultures really primes the mind for creative thought. You end
up realizing, "It doesn't have to be done the way I have always done
it!" That is, if you have the mind of a creative person. ;^)

--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://potters.blogspot.com/

"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau

"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi

Lee Love on mon 19 feb 07


On 2/19/07, John Hesselberth wrote:
> I would add one thing. In spite of how
> good you are at housekeeping, dust will accumulate on the soles of
> your shoes. While it won't remove all of it I have found that having
> a walk-on sticky pad

When my studio was in part of our living space, a loft at the
Northern Warehouse Artists Cooperative, I had the pottery work area
marked off by linoleum. I would switch shoes when I entered that
space and switch back when I went back into the living space.

--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://potters.blogspot.com/

"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau

"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi

WJ Seidl on tue 20 feb 07


My apologies, Ivor and all:
That should have read
"...Vinegar acts as a FLOCCULANT..."
I had it backward...again.
Vinegar acts (as an acid will) to flocculate clay.
I'm always screwing that up, just like flammable, non-flammable, and
inflammable. BAH!
Best,
Wayne Seidl

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Ivor and Olive
Lewis
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 7:55 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: basement studio

Dear WJ Seidl ,

This caught my eye <my hand like a kid in class that _really_ has to GO!)
Vinegar acts as a deflocculant, so the clay remains "in suspension" in the
water, making its removal easier? >> so I had a look in the Potters
dictionary

This is not what Mr Frank Hamer writes. What do you know that makes you
contradict his information. See his entries on "Acids" and "Flocculants".

Best regards

Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
South Australia.

____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

J. Andrews on tue 20 feb 07


I have a basement studio with some of the same problems. I use my window to load and unload. My window, fortunately, is at the correct height for me to simply to place a wide board from basement window ledge to outside - I shim it to make it level. This works for pots and supplies. I don't trust my steep stairs. It requires a balancing act risking my limbs and pottery. So, if you can avoid using the stairs, do it. If your window is too high, think about setting up a movable scaffold near the window

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Stuart & Kathryn Fields on tue 20 feb 07


Just an 'atta boy' for Lee Love on traveling and living (not touristing)
abroad; the effects this can have on one's world view and out look.

Kathy Fields
sfkf@iwvisp.com

Ivor and Olive Lewis on tue 20 feb 07


Dear WJ Seidl ,

This caught my eye <waving my hand like a kid in class that _really_ has to GO!) =20
Vinegar acts as a deflocculant, so the clay remains "in suspension" in =
the
water, making its removal easier? >> so I had a look in the Potters =
dictionary=20

This is not what Mr Frank Hamer writes. What do you know that makes you =
contradict his information. See his entries on "Acids" and =
"Flocculants".

Best regards

Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
South Australia.

Ivor and Olive Lewis on wed 21 feb 07


Dear WJ Seidl,=20

Anything that raises a smile is worth while reading. Really does pay to =
re-read what you have typed before, enthusiastically, hitting the send =
button.

We all know your Heart is well and truly in the right place and you are =
blessed for it.

Best regards

Lee Love on wed 21 feb 07


On 2/21/07, Stuart & Kathryn Fields wrote:

> Just an 'atta boy' for Lee Love on traveling and living (not touristing)
> abroad; the effects this can have on one's world view and out look.

Thank you Kathy!

One of the reasons for my "bilocation" is to help Mashiko
potters to travel to Minnesota to work and Minnesota potter to travel
to Mashiko to work. Will take some time to arrange something. I
don't have space at my home in Mashiko for guests but we do have a
nice Minshuku/Inn in Mashiko that is also a pottery school and studio
and is affordable. I will have room in Minnesota, but I have to
build a studio in my basement first. Either way, I hope to help
folks take slides of their work, apply for travel and/or residency
grants and help them organize.

Eventually, for the Minnesota place I will be looking for
someone to rent or house/dog sit while I am in Mashiko. The fringe
benefit would to possible working in Mashiko too.

I am publishing a large format postcard news letter that is about
to go out, with a focus on Zen, Craft and Beauty. Hopefully, it will
help me find like-minded potters. If there is any interest I will
put up a Paypal button and send it out to folks at cost (about
50cents.) I am doing it through the USPS and one of their online
mail services. You just upload your files including mailing list and
they print and bulkmail for you.

A free PDF version will be available too.

--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://potters.blogspot.com/

"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau

"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi