Craig Martell on thu 18 apr 02
Hi:
For a 47 amp kiln with a 60 amp breaker you should use #6 copper
wire. Don't use aluminum even if an electrician says it's OK. If you have
to run the line more than 50 feet from the power panel you'll need to
increase the size of the wire to #4 copper. If the power cord on the kiln
is the one supplied by the manufacturer and it's in good shape, you don't
need to change it.
You can hard wire the power cord to the supply line with split bolt
connectors if you want to do it that way but make sure they are properly
insulated and wrapped. You can also get a disconnect box and hard wire
with that. I like to use a disconnect because you can throw the switch and
cut power to the kiln when you make repairs without having to go to the
power panel and throw the breaker.
regards, Craig Martell in Oregon
Anne K. Wellings on thu 18 apr 02
I'm considering hardwiring my electric kiln to the power source when I
move it to a new location. I found some posts on this in the archives,
but I know that the search didn't come up with all that's been written,
because I know I've seen others. So I'd welcome any more thoughts on this
or if you could point me toward any previous posts of yours in the
archives ( I could search your e-mail address).
There have been a variety of methods mentioned, from simple to more
complicated. I have heard of potters just connecting the wires with wire
nuts and others who insist upon using a junction box or other variations
on either.
I'm considering adding a new circuit just for the kiln, rather than using
an existing receptacle, so I can locate the kiln in a less cramped space
or in a shed about 10-20 feet from the main building. What would be the
problems with using a longer wire versus having the kiln closer to the
main breaker box?
Also, I plan to use a 60 amp breaker for the kiln, which supposedly draws
47 amps, because of previous advice, and this is what I am currently
doing. But I see there are some varying opinions in the archives on this.
I have been using the #6 wire that is in place for an electric range.
With a 60 amp breaker, should I be using a bigger wire, especially if it
will be going some distance? If the kiln's cord uses #6 wires, can I
connect those to a bigger size wire, or do I need to fit the kiln with a
bigger cord as well? I don't remember seeing an appliance cord any bigger
than that at Home Depot. Would I then just use bigger wires in place of a
cord?
My current set-up with a cord and receptacle works OK, I feel the plug
for hotness, jiggle it if seems a bit too warm, which seems to work, and
am capable of replacing cord/plug and receptacle. But I know there are
better ways, and my new location will be at someone else's property, so I
want to be a little more careful, just in case.
I can consult an electrician, but not all of them are that familiar with
kilns, so I'd like some advice from potter/electricians as well.
Thanks,
Anne
Jonathan R Smith on thu 18 apr 02
>I'm considering hardwiring my electric kiln to the power source when I
>move it to a new location. I found some posts on this in the archives,
>but I know that the search didn't come up with all that's been written,
>because I know I've seen others. So I'd welcome any more thoughts on this
>or if you could point me toward any previous posts of yours in the
>archives ( I could search your e-mail address).
>
>There have been a variety of methods mentioned, from simple to more
>complicated. I have heard of potters just connecting the wires with wire
>nuts and others who insist upon using a junction box or other variations
>on either.
>
>I'm considering adding a new circuit just for the kiln, rather than using
>an existing receptacle, so I can locate the kiln in a less cramped space
>or in a shed about 10-20 feet from the main building. What would be the
>problems with using a longer wire versus having the kiln closer to the
>main breaker box?
>
>Also, I plan to use a 60 amp breaker for the kiln, which supposedly draws
>47 amps, because of previous advice, and this is what I am currently
>doing. But I see there are some varying opinions in the archives on this.
>I have been using the #6 wire that is in place for an electric range.
>With a 60 amp breaker, should I be using a bigger wire, especially if it
>will be going some distance? If the kiln's cord uses #6 wires, can I
>connect those to a bigger size wire, or do I need to fit the kiln with a
>bigger cord as well? I don't remember seeing an appliance cord any bigger
>than that at Home Depot. Would I then just use bigger wires in place of a
>cord?
>
>My current set-up with a cord and receptacle works OK, I feel the plug
>for hotness, jiggle it if seems a bit too warm, which seems to work, and
>am capable of replacing cord/plug and receptacle. But I know there are
>better ways, and my new location will be at someone else's property, so I
>want to be a little more careful, just in case.
>
>I can consult an electrician, but not all of them are that familiar with
>kilns, so I'd like some advice from potter/electricians as well.
>
>Thanks,
>Anne
>
Hi Anne,
I'm not an electrician,
but my wife the potter and her many pottering friends have forced me into it
a 220 appliance cord is made of stranded wire,
a no no for permanent wiring.
First thing to do is check and see if the wire from the fusebox
itself is copper or aluminum.
copper you can t-nut together, but aluminum requires special handling.
the Depot does carry that type of wire, but not with molded plugs on it.
If your cord is running hot, your contacts are corroded or badly fitting,
and should be fixed, before you either start ruining your work,
or cause a fire
you can buy just a plug and wire it yourself, but you may want to
check the local codes, they tend to be sticklers for those oversized
toasters... ;-)
JOn, enjoying unusually warm weather in PA,
patching my roof and gutters
--
Tom Buck on fri 19 apr 02
Anne KW:
Perhaps, when you come to a decision on how to proceed with
hard-wiring the kiln in its new location, you might consider a technique
suggested to me by Jeremy Willis, of Euclid's, when I was connecting my
new 44+-amp kiln to my new 200-amp service board (circuit breakers).
Instead of running 20+-feet of No.6 wire, and using a 60/70-amp
breaker, I ran TWO 30-amp clothes dryer wires (No. 10 copper), each with
its own 30-amp breaker. One cable went to the kiln sitter, and then to
the connecting board on the outside of the kiln. In the covered connecting
board was a 30-amp "Contactor" (an electro-magnetic switch, similiar to
the one in the kiln sitter), the second No.10 cable was connected to one
side of this Contactor. When the kiln-sitter circuit was turned on, it
activated the Contactor which then powered Half the kiln, this is the
Slave circuit. The kiln-sitter circuit powered the other Half, and it is
the Master circuit. When the kiln sitter shuts off, so does the Slave
circuit.
I have 5 elements in the kiln, three at 8 amps, two at 10 amps.
The kiln sitter handles 3x8 = 24 amps; the slave circuit handles 2x10=20
amps. So neither circuit is ever overloaded, and the 30-amp breakers
should handle the load okay. If the 24-amp circuit breaker trips, then you
will have to go to a 40-amp breaker for this loop.
what is the benefit of this? well, most cellars/basement/garages
have a clothes dryer circuit already in place; I did, hence only one more
circuit need to be installed. and the No10 wire is way cheaper than No.6
(or No.4 cable). You can use standard dryer outlet boxes and plug wire to
connect the kiln, and be fairly assured of minimum arcing....clothes
dryers seldom fail because of arcing.
and the cost of a 40-amp Contactor is perhaps $50 Cdn $30 US.
equivalent to two metres of No.6 cable. Contactors for various loads are
readily available because they are used primarily to switch on large
electrical motors in industry.
thanks to Jeremy, my hook-upcosts were half or less of a No.6
hook-up, and besides I got a much safer installation in my home. the power
company inspector gave approval, and my home insurance cost was not
affected.
so, give this approach some thought. bye. Peace. Tom B.
Tom Buck ) tel: 905-389-2339
(westend Lake Ontario, province of Ontario, Canada).
mailing address: 373 East 43rd Street,
Hamilton ON L8T 3E1 Canada
On Thu, 18 Apr 2002, Anne K. Wellings wrote:
> I'm considering hardwiring my electric kiln to the power source when I
> move it to a new location. I found some posts on this in the archives,
> but I know that the search didn't come up with all that's been written,
> because I know I've seen others. So I'd welcome any more thoughts on this
> or if you could point me toward any previous posts of yours in the
> archives ( I could search your e-mail address).
> (clip)
william schran on fri 19 apr 02
Anne - Contact the kiln manufacturer for their recommendations on
wire size over a certain distance. Depending on the distance of kiln
from panel, you may want to go up to #4 for hot & neutral, #6 for
ground.
Bill
Ceramic Design Group on fri 19 apr 02
All our electric kilns are hard wired with the exception for the small AIM
110volt test kiln that fires twice daily and our 220V 2 cubic foot or so
Paragon test kiln that has been firing every day also.
We hard wire from the breaker box to a standard utility box near the kiln.
These utility boxes are about 10" x 10" x 6" deep or so. Inside, we mount a
heavy duty 3 pole insulated terminal block that uses very large diameter
Allen head set screws to secure the wires. There are 3 connectors on each
side of the terminal block, one side for the power from the breaker, and the
other side to the kiln. These terminal blocks are rated for 440-660 with big
amperage, like 100 amps plus or so. The connections are clean and tight, no
wrapping needed, and it eliminates split bolts.
I would guess its kind of obsessive/complusive of me to do it this way, but
there is lots of room in the utility box, the connections are very clean and
there is never a chance of anything getting in the way. Looks sharp too!
The terminal blocks are available from McMaster Carr Supply.
Jonathan
--
Jonathan Kaplan
CERAMIC DESIGN GROUP
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs, CO 80577
(970) 879-9139
info@ceramicdesigngroup.net
www.ceramicdesigngroup.net
| |
|
