Brad Sondahl on sun 28 apr 02
I have a shelf like that waiting to be ground smooth. I use a highspeed
Makita 3 inch grinder with either disks designed for metal or ceramic.
I wear eye protection and a mask when I do it, as sharp glassy bits will
fly. It will save some time if you chip off the larger chunks first,
though that may result in some craters in the shelf (which can be mostly
filled with kiln wash.
Brad Sondahl
--
For original art, music, pottery, and literature, visit my homepage
http://home.earthlink.net/~bsondahl/
Pottery sales page http://sondahl.freeyellow.com
My music site at mp3.com http://www.mp3.com/sondahl
Lois Ruben Aronow on sun 28 apr 02
In the course of glaze testing, I have ended up with some nice glazes,
loads of education, and some disasters. Some of these disasters are
glaze rings on my kiln shelves. Can't chip 'em off with a hammer and
chisel (or stiff putty knife, as the case may be). Do I need to
grind? Give 'em up for dead and just get new ones? Someone told me
to refire them with the rings covered in grog/sand, but this didn't
work or make the chipping any easier. Your thoughts please.
Thanks....
--------------------------------------------
Lois Ruben Aronow
gilois@bellatlantic.net
=46ine Craft Porcelain
http://www.loisaronow.com
Cheryl Hoffman on sun 28 apr 02
I've found that an electric paint chipper works the best for me. It's made
to chip paint off houses...small, uses vibration with a 2 inch scraping
blade. I can clean off a badly slopped on shelf in minutes. Not nearly as
dangerous as a wheel grinder, but be sure to wear a mask, safety glasses and
angle the shelf so that the debris flies away from you...it's flying glass,
remember! I've saved shelves thought to be hopeless. One shelf has a
crater
left, so I have a fired unglazed pancake that I put on that spot and place
my
pot on the pancake, in case glaze oozes from the crater...but it hasn't so
far.
Good luck, Cher H.
Ababi on mon 29 apr 02
Vince's book is a half way solution!
The other half are your hands
Ababi
---------- Original Message ----------
>In the course of glaze testing, I have ended up with some nice glazes,
>loads of education, and some disasters. Some of these disasters are
>glaze rings on my kiln shelves. Can't chip 'em off with a hammer and
>chisel (or stiff putty knife, as the case may be). Do I need to
>grind? Give 'em up for dead and just get new ones? Someone told me
>to refire them with the rings covered in grog/sand, but this didn't
>work or make the chipping any easier. Your thoughts please.
>Thanks....
>--------------------------------------------
>Lois Ruben Aronow
>gilois@bellatlantic.net
>Fine Craft Porcelain
>http://www.loisaronow.com
>________________________________________________________________________
>______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Charles Moore on mon 29 apr 02
Just to add another note to Brad's about filling craters:
I recently had a couple of glaze rings, which left circular gouges in the
shelf after being ground out. I first used kiln cement, dried and sanded
it, and fired in a bisque fire before covering with kiln wash. Worked very
well.
Charles Moore
Sacramento
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Sondahl"
It will save some time if you chip off the larger chunks first,
> though that may result in some craters in the shelf (which can be mostly
> filled with kiln wash.
> Brad Sondahl
Craig Clark on mon 29 apr 02
Whenever we had glaze run off a pot onto the shelf we had the offending
person chip and grind the shelf. THis helped to teach them the error of
their sloppy glazing ways.
Initially the offendor, I held this position on several occassions, was
given a full length face shield, a long sleeve shirt, long pants (if they
weren't wearing them, full cover shoes (no open toes), a hammer, small
chipping steel, and a 9-inch Milwaukee Grinder (booYaaaa.)
The shelves were placed flat on a the ground out in the foundry with a
layer of sand underneath. The safely outfitted offender was then instructed
how to gentely chip away the large pools of glaze. It was emphasized that
shelves are somewhat brittle and that if one were to wale away one would end
up with pieces of shelf rather than glaze free whole ones.
After this task was accomplished the grinder was put to use. Once again
care was given to, believe it or not, going easy with the grinder. People
were told that the objective was not to grind through a two inch weld. They
were shown how to hold the tool and taugh to let the tool do the work.
THe disk of the grinder was intially kept at about a 10 degree angle to
"cut" through the uneven glaze that remained from the chipping. Then the
blade was oriented a flat as possible to smooth and level things out.
The next step, rarely neccessary, was to take a small pointed steel and
chip out any remaining glaze that looked like there might be enough of it
left to cause any future problems (pots sticking to the shelves.)
Afterwards, all the shelves were cleaned and kiln washed was once again
applied.
Worked great for us.
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Sondahl"
To:
Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2002 10:48 PM
Subject: Kiln shelves - grinding and chipping methods
> I have a shelf like that waiting to be ground smooth. I use a highspeed
> Makita 3 inch grinder with either disks designed for metal or ceramic.
> I wear eye protection and a mask when I do it, as sharp glassy bits will
> fly. It will save some time if you chip off the larger chunks first,
> though that may result in some craters in the shelf (which can be mostly
> filled with kiln wash.
> Brad Sondahl
> --
> For original art, music, pottery, and literature, visit my homepage
> http://home.earthlink.net/~bsondahl/
> Pottery sales page http://sondahl.freeyellow.com
> My music site at mp3.com http://www.mp3.com/sondahl
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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