Mercy Langford on thu 25 apr 02
Cookie- have you considered Lusters? they fire at low fire 19 or 18 and
they
are applied over glaze. just a thought! hope it helps-Mercy
cookie davis on thu 25 apr 02
Here's a question for you all.
I have been working alot with medallics and their patinas, and of course,
being a potter I have begun to wonder if there was a way to patina over a
glaze, much as one would a piece of bronze.
I was doing some nice boxes and this popped into mind. Any suggestions
would be appreciated.
Thanks!
cookie
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Dave Gayman on fri 26 apr 02
Considering that bronze patination done at the foundry is the application
of external agents, why not apply an external agent like acrylics? Most
producers of commercial ceramic glazes also make acrylic stains and
washes. Gives you control over color and degree of application.
Sputtered metallics and lusters eventually oxidize, but the effect, at
least in my tiny collection of good raku, ain't so hot -- just a
dulling-down.
>I have begun to wonder if there was a way to patina over a
>glaze, much as one would a piece of bronze.
Bob Pulley on fri 26 apr 02
I saw some very nice terra cotta figures in a gallery in Indy. I can't
remember the name of the artist. He had put copper leaf on them, it was
thin enough to show the rasp marks in the clay, and then used various
patinas on the copper.
The effect was appropriate for the work.
Bob
Marie Gibbons on fri 26 apr 02
Yes this certainly can be done! My work is almost always finished in cold
finishes of acrylics, inks, color pencil... and much more. I have been
doing
this for over 6 years... and still have pieces around from the
beginning..they still look great. I have seen the 'acrylic stains' in
ceramic supply stores.... my thought.... over priced acrylic paints... I get
mine at the hobby stores, just reg ole acrylic... I get the ones in bottles
they come in 2 oz bottles nice consistancy, not thick like a tube paint.
they range from 50 cents a bottle to 1.50
no brand seems any better than another... it is just the colors that I want
that dictate the brands that i buy. the important thing is the application.
I have developed a technique that works well for me, dry brushing the
acrylic
on the clay so to not loose the texture of the clay.... not have the piece
look coated in plastic, but build up the color gradually, always able to see
the texture of the clay.
marie gibbons
arvada colorado
www.oooladies.com
Snail Scott on sat 27 apr 02
At 08:48 PM 4/25/02 -0400, you wrote:
>I have been working alot with me[t]allics and their patinas, and of course,
>being a potter I have begun to wonder if there was a way to patina over a
>glaze, much as one would a piece of bronze.
A true chemical patina relies on a high metal
content. There are many 'fake patina' products
out there, though. The one at the Sculpt-Nouveau
website seems rather promising, though I haven't
tried it out yet. I suspect it would not work
well over glaze, though - not enough adhesion.
A bare clay body would (I think) do better.
You can also apply paints over glaze, to give
a different effect which simulates an oxidation
patina. These would be vulnarable to handling,
however, especially over a gloss glaze.
-Snail
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