Marjorie on sat 4 may 02
Morning Craig - Surprisingly, my CM made it across the border to my =
mail box by May 2nd. This was great, so that I did not have to read the =
raves and not see the article for weeks.
Please add my compliments on the article and cover. It was nice to see =
more of your fine pots in addition to the small glimpses you have =
directed us to on the web.
I had fun digging out the Nov 77 CM out of my low ceiling attic. Would =
you consider sharing another technique/method ? How do you apply the =
temmoku to center of bowls/platters and keep the rim area unaffected? =
Which is first? Resist? Please tell us if you choose. Okay, if you =
rather not.
I am sure I was only one of thousands who entered your glaze recipes =
into our "Insight"or other glaze calc programs. I was surprised at the =
high expansion numbers of some of your glazes such as the Peach Black =
Temmoku and Blue Celedon for example, because you are using a porcelain =
body. Do these work well for you because of the particular clay body =
that you use ?
Again, good article - good pots ! MarjB
=20
Craig Martell on sun 5 may 02
MB Sez:
> Maybe he will tell us his methods or just let us
>work it out for ourselves which is what we should do, as he did. MarjB
Hi:
I just finished doing the Oregon Potter's Assoc show in Portland and I'm
wasted. I'll tell you all about how I glaze the pieces in question when I
get some sleep and can think straight.
regards, Craig Martell in Oregon.........got to talk with Clayarter Jim
Cullen from Chicago at the show. He was in Portland on biz.
Lee Love on sun 5 may 02
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marjorie"
> How do you apply the temmoku to center of bowls/platters and keep the rim
area
> unaffected? Which is first? Resist? Please tell us if you choose. Okay,
if
you
>rather not.
What is done with Kaki at the workshop here in Mashiko, and would work
with
temmoku, is that the rim is glazed first. Then you wax resist the rim,
clean
any drips or runs that goes into the center, and (you can skip this with
temmoku) glaze the center with a limestone glaze (that is always put under
kaki)
and then Kaki is poured into the center. Any drips or runs of kaki onto
the
wax resist is cleaned off with a sponge.
--
Lee in Mashiko
._____________________________________________
| Lee Love ^/(o\| Practice before theory.
|
| Ikiru@kami.com |\o)/v - Sotetsu Yanagi - |
`~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~'
Marjorie on sun 5 may 02
Thank you for the suggestion Lee Love - BUT - I understand that Craig
Martell sprays alot of his glazes. I was curious of his method/order
because I assumed that he sprayed the rim glazes. Possibly he poured in/out
the temmoku and resisted it, cleaned up the rim and then sprayed on the
glazes for the rim....??? Maybe he will tell us his methods or just let us
work it out for ourselves which is what we should do, as he did. MarjB
-ps - I disagree with TC about handmade cane handles on Craig's teapots.
That is, if he was suggesting handles that he shows on their
website/magazine articles, which are on shino/wood fired teapots. Perfect
for those. I would suggest another handle for Craig's teapots. Canecraft
makes a beautiful bent maple handle with brass loops and fittings. The
brass works with the wood ash glazes and there is enough red in the maple to
compliment the red in the Temmoku and they would harmonize with the
sophistication/elegance of Craig's teapots.....Of course, Craig should
ignore my suggestion as he did not ask and has chosen the handle that he
wishes for his teapots. MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Love"
To:
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2002 11:02 AM
Subject: May CM/Craig Martell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marjorie"
>
> > How do you apply the temmoku to center of bowls/platters and keep the
rim area
> > unaffected? Which is first? Resist? Please tell us if you choose.
Okay, if
> you
> >rather not.
>
> What is done with Kaki at the workshop here in Mashiko, and would work
with
> temmoku, is that the rim is glazed first. Then you wax resist the rim,
clean
> any drips or runs that goes into the center, and (you can skip this with
> temmoku) glaze the center with a limestone glaze (that is always put under
kaki)
> and then Kaki is poured into the center. Any drips or runs of kaki onto
the
> wax resist is cleaned off with a sponge.
> --
> Lee in Mashiko
> ._____________________________________________
> | Lee Love ^/(o\| Practice before theory.
|
> | Ikiru@kami.com |\o)/v - Sotetsu Yanagi -
|
> `~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~'
>
>
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>
Karen on sun 5 may 02
Lee,
DO Tell us..... it sounds interesting & I for one am always interested in
the ways of others. We can all use a little insight, and I also think it is
one of the fascinating aspects of pottery, the diversity of the field!
Karen
(near Raleigh, NC~where it Finally poured cold icy rain all nite Friday &
most of Saturday. The air is now washed clean & crisp, no longer dusty &
filled with pollen :)
Lee Love on mon 6 may 02
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marjorie"
> Thank you for the suggestion Lee Love - BUT - I understand that Craig
> Martell sprays alot of his glazes.
Sorry to bother you. :^) I'll explain the technique used at the
workshop
another time. The layering of glazes and wax resist sometimes requires
up
to 5 steps, using 4 or 5 different glazes.
I never understood how it was done until I watched Sensei do it.
--
Lee in Mashiko
"The lyfe so short, the craft so long to learne." - Geoffrey Chaucer
(c.
1340-1400).-
._____________________________________________
| Lee Love ^/(o\| Practice before theory.
|
| Ikiru@kami.com |\o)/v - Sotetsu Yanagi - |
`~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~'
"All weaves one fabric; all things give
Power unto all things to work and live." - Goethe -
| |
|
