vince pitelka on tue 14 may 02
claymixers?
> Anyone with any help and experience with this problem have any solution,
we
> are getting desperate!! Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Misty -
With that kind of rust, your only options are to grind it off with a
flexible sanding disc on an angle grinder, or to disassemble the machine and
have the rusty parts commercially sandblasted. The latter will be far less
work in the long run, and well worth the money. But then, the machine will
just rust again. Face it, mild steel pugmills are just inappropriate for
white-firing porcelain and whiteware bodies.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Klyf Brown on tue 14 may 02
claymixers?
What Snail said about the blasting is great for scale and large
deposits. For the final layer phosphoric acid works very well. You
can find it cheapest at Sherwin Williams sold as concrete deck prep.
Mix it into water 3or 4 to one and use a cheapie pump up garden
sprayer to apply. For deeper stuff let it set 15 minutes and spray again
until it is platinum grey. The acid also prevents it from rusting for some
time, depending I am sure on where you live. Here in the desert the
rust prevention last for months.
Do not do this on a raw concrete deck the acid will etch the surface.
Best to do it over dirt. Neturalize the runoff with water.
You can also rent a pressure washer with a sandblast attachment. I
really prefer the wet blasting as you don't have the airborn
contaminants and don't have to wear the moonsuit or even a
respirator. A full face shield is a must for either method.
For the acid treatment use all safety gear, rubber gloves and boots
respirator and for sure eye protection.
Good luck
Klyf Brown in New Mexico usa
>At 03:12 AM 5/14/02 EDT, you wrote:
>>We have been laboring the last week or so trying to rid the
BLUEBIRD and
>>ESTRIN claymixers of rust scale...
Working Potter on tue 14 may 02
claymixers?
We have been laboring the last week or so trying to rid the BLUEBIRD and
ESTRIN claymixers of rust scale in order to mix my associate's white
sculptural body in it and wire brishes, drill with cup wire grinder brush
nor
naval jelly [my associate keeps calling it nipple jelly due to its pink
color,lol] and my brother said my compresser would be undersized to sand
blast it.We have yet to put sand in them and run it as that will only
help
the deepest part anyhow and I am not sure that pure sand alone is a good
idea, as I might think a sandy clay might be safer for the machine, but
as
mentioned the lower barrell would be the only beneficiary.
Once anything cleaned the barrell and blades, what would possibly keep it
clear of rust from this time out?
I DON'T HAVE THE OPTION[FINANCIALLY] OF GETTING A STAINLESS MACHINE, NOW,
BUT WISH THEY HAD BEEN AVAILABLE WHEN I BOUGHT THESE!!! What a tough
unproductive job in this 90 degree weather!!!
Anyone with any help and experience with this problem have any solution, we
are getting desperate!! Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Misty
Snail Scott on tue 14 may 02
claymixers?
At 03:12 AM 5/14/02 EDT, you wrote:
>We have been laboring the last week or so trying to rid the BLUEBIRD and
>ESTRIN claymixers of rust scale...
Sandblasters with compressors can be rented.
Also, though transportation will certainly
be a huge hassle, having your equipment
commercially sandblasted may be more affordable
than you'd think. If you can transport the
mixers, it may actually be cheaper (and less
work) than renting a do-it-yourself rig.
-Snail
Philip Poburka on tue 14 may 02
claymixers?
Dear Misty,
I agree...'Sandblasting' is the way-to-go...
Check your 'phone book, and also ask around of places that have Cranes or
Heavy Equipment as they often Sandblast their own stuff, and might just be
nice to you.
If you live near here ( Las Vegas ) I can Sand Blast it for you...
In the past, I had sometimes addressed serious 'rust' and scale problems
useing Caustic Soda followed by Muriatic Acid. I do not recommend that
regimen unless you are happy with truely nasty fumes and hazards and the
vexation of what to do with the chemicals afterward. I beelieve most people
would concurr that this method is truely unpleasant.
I also wonder whether once 'clean', if some kind of 'rubberized' Paint
might not be used to seal and protect the Steel. One could consult the
'Thomas Register' or search 'on-line' for the Manufacturers of such Paints,
and obtain informative Literature.
It should stand up well to the abrasive particles of the Clay body, or so I
would would speculate...
It just might be a method of keeping the Steel Mixer safe from further
Oxidations as would contaminate your 'white' Clays.
Good luck !
Phil
Las Vegas...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Snail Scott"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 8:26 AM
Subject: Re: any suggestions on rust removal mild steel Bluebird /Estrin
claymixers?
> At 03:12 AM 5/14/02 EDT, you wrote:
> >We have been laboring the last week or so trying to rid the BLUEBIRD and
> >ESTRIN claymixers of rust scale...
>
>
> Sandblasters with compressors can be rented.
> Also, though transportation will certainly
> be a huge hassle, having your equipment
> commercially sandblasted may be more affordable
> than you'd think. If you can transport the
> mixers, it may actually be cheaper (and less
> work) than renting a do-it-yourself rig.
>
> -Snail
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Michael Wendt on tue 14 may 02
claymixers?
To add to other answers,
once cleaned of rust, you can clean out the mixer and let it dry between
uses. The few scraps dry, shrink and fall away before they cause much rust.
That's the way I've done mine for over 25 years. It looks like stainless
inside because rust only forms if mild steel is wet and exposed to oxygen.
Cleaning it immediately after use and letting it dry also makes the next
batch easier since all you do to start is spray with water, let stand a few
minutes and once the lumps that cling to the tiny crevices are soft, you can
either drain the mixer and proceed or let the contents be mixed into the
batch.
I usually mix once a year and mix up a huge quantity at one time. That
reduces the cleanup but once a month is not too hard either.
Good luck,
Michael Wendt wendtpot@lewiston.com
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Avenue
Lewiston, Idaho 83501
1-208-746-3724
wendtpottery.com
At 03:12 AM 5/14/02 EDT, you wrote:
>We have been laboring the last week or so trying to rid the BLUEBIRD and
>ESTRIN claymixers of rust scale...
Sandblasters with compressors can be rented.
Also, though transportation will certainly
be a huge hassle, having your equipment
commercially sandblasted may be more affordable
than you'd think. If you can transport the
mixers, it may actually be cheaper (and less
work) than renting a do-it-yourself rig.
-Snail
Craig Clark on wed 15 may 02
:Vince, would OSPHO work? claymixers?
If you don't go the route of the complete dissembly and sand blasting,
which is by far the best course, do as others have suggested. Using whatever
of aformentioned means,(sanding, grinding, chipping etc,) until All of the
loose rust has been removed.
The next thing that you might try is to use a product that autobody
repair people use. It's called OSPHO. It acts in a similar manner to Naval
Jelly, but goes a step beyond in that it creates a surface that for all
practical purposes is inert. It's easy to apply, just use a brush.. It's not
very expensive either. The only question that I have is how long it would be
before it was abraided by the clay during the mixing process. There might
also be a problem with contamination of the porcelain, though it may be
worth a try.
Otherwise it's the world of stainless steel that you are looking for. As
Vince said mild steel really ain't right for porcelain.
Craig Dunn CLarl
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "vince pitelka"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 8:42 PM
Subject: Re: any suggestions on rust removal mild steel Bluebird /Estrin
claymixers?
> > Anyone with any help and experience with this problem have any
solution,
> we
> > are getting desperate!! Thanks in advance for any and all help.
>
> Misty -
> With that kind of rust, your only options are to grind it off with a
> flexible sanding disc on an angle grinder, or to disassemble the machine
and
> have the rusty parts commercially sandblasted. The latter will be far
less
> work in the long run, and well worth the money. But then, the machine
will
> just rust again. Face it, mild steel pugmills are just inappropriate for
> white-firing porcelain and whiteware bodies.
> Good luck -
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Crafts
> Tennessee Technological University
> 1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
> Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
> 615/597-5376
> Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
> 615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
> http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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